






(Jxo7i^zsU 'D.^^ 



t^j-no^vCA./ 



CHIl^A ANJ) JAPAN, 

t 

AND 0%%%» 

A VOYAGE THITHER 

AN ACCOUNT OF A CRUISE 



WATEES OF THE EAST IK'DIES, 
CHIlSrA, KEJ) JAPAInT. 



By JAMES B. 'LA^A^RENCE, U. S. M. C. 




J 
HAETFORD: 

PRESS OF CASE, LOCKWOOD & BRAINARD. 
1870. 



Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1870, by 

JAMES B. LAWRENCE, 

In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States, for the 
District of Connecticut. 






.^ 



TO 

MY GALLANT SHIPMATES AND COMPANIONS 

OF THE 
AND 

THOSE "DEAR FRIENDS AT HOME," 

WHO EVER REMEMBERED US WITH INTEREST IN ALL OUR WANDERINGS, 
THIS VOLUME IS AFFECTIONATELY DEDICATED, 

By THE Author. 



PREFACE. 



There have been times in the lives of almost every one, 
when they have stood with a group of friends, as some bright 
day closed into evening, and watched with admiration its va- 
ried pictures of colored and golden cloud-scenes. At such 
times one could not have failed to have remarked that each 
one saw scenes unnoticed or unrecognized by others. What 
would appear to one to be the figures of persons, would as 
clearly be recognized by another to be animals ; and while 
one would be struck with astonishment at a very clearly de- 
fi^ned picture of contending armies, or a noble tower with 
lofty battlements, to others these same scenes would appear 
but a confused and unshapen mass. 

In like manner, no one beholds the same thing precisely 
alike, and in some cases there is a direct contradiction in 
describing the same object, and yet both may be correct so 
far as they go ; as in the case of the two knights contending 
over the material of which the shield was composed. The 
fault was that one did not see the whole ; and in no case 
yet has the multiplied descriptions of different countries and 
people either exhausted the subject, or made us accurately 
acquainted. There is ever an opportunity for " one more '* 
to bring something new to our notice, or present the most 
familiar subject in some new and interesting aspect. 

This must be the writer's excuse for saying something 



VI PREFACE. 

regarding countries, people, and other topics that may appear 
familiar to many ; but the most of his gatherings are from 
remote regions, which, while any information respecting them 
is intensely interesting, there is yet comparatively little known. 
In these gatherings the writer has endeavored to collect the 
most interesting,' to be as comprehensive as his opportunities 
would allow, and to describe and narrate all in as concise a 
manner as ease would permit. He feels assured that the 
reader will find in these pages some new and interesting 
items regarding the remote regions of which he writes ; and 
yet is at the same time conscious that they will not be missed 
from the vast mass left for other observers and future years. 

As a public ship is always an object of national interest, 
and therefore cannot be uninteresting for her republican pa- 
rents to know of her wanderings, the writer has given in 
connection with these gatherings the most important facts 
respecting the " cruise " of the vessels with which he was 
connected. He has also endeavored to notice some great 
evils which exist in an important national institution, and 
which do not seem to be in harmony with our national char- 
acter. It should be the aim of all to produce a reform in 
this institution, and to show to the world in our Navy an 
example of correct American principles. 

Respecting his style, the writer makes no pretensions, al- 
though he is well aware that so much depends upon it, that 
the simplest incident is embellished by it; and the most 
trifling item from the pen of some are by it so expressed as 
to possess all the fascinations of a romance. Still the writer 
feels assured that the simplest account of a voyage has such 



PREFACE. VU 

indiscriminate popularity, that he may safely rely upon the 
interest of his subject, without particular reference to style. 
Something, however, should perhaps be said in respect to the 
form in which the book has been written. 

The writer has chosen the form of " letters " because this 
is less didactic and stiff than any other, and also, while he 
has found greater freedom and ease in writing as from one 
friend to another, he hopes that the reader will derive deeper 
pleasure from the perusal. To the charge of egotism, which 
some might bring against him, he would say in defence, that 
this form necessarily occasions a considerable use of the first 
person ; and after all, what is history or the account of any- 
thing but the aggregate of individual experiences and emo- 
tions ? 

It might have been better in some respects had the writer 
followed more closely the directions of good Master Bayle in 
his prescriptions for description and invention. Although his 
sage rules have not been taken as a guide, yet whenever he 
had a statement to make in connection with his subject, that 
belonged to the common stock of history and science, or has 
had views and sentiments to convey which another has better 
expressed than himself, he has not hesitated, without further 
acknowledgments, to use such materials, in part or entire, 
and to blend them with his own into a kind of mosaic, in 
"which he admits that his part is little more than the ce- 
ment. 

-V However, this has not been carried to any great extent by 
him ; and the reader need not expect to find the history of 
each place run back to primeval dates, including an elaborate 



Vm PREFACE. 

treatise on Mineralogy, Botany, and all other sciences of every 
place ; for the writer has mainly noted the objects and topics 
which interested him at the moment ; and provided that the 
perusal of these gatherings impart to the reader one-half the 
interest and pleasure that the writer experienced, he will be 

content. 

JAMES B. LAWRENCE, 

Sandisfield, Mass., July \st, 1870. 



c o ]sr T E ]sr T s 



LETTEE I. 
Boston Harbor. - - Page 9. 

On board — ^A glance at the Wachusett — The Berth Deck. 

LETTER II. 
Under Weigh. - - Page 15. 

" Down by the Run " — Preparing for Sea — ^Presidential Rejoicings — 
The Pains of Parting. 

LETTER ni. 

At Sea. ... Page 20. 

Stationing — Amusements — Sunday on board Ship — Treatment of 
Seamen — Our Officers — Preparations for Port — ^Land Ho ! Emo- 
tions — Dominica and Martinique — ^Beautiful scenery of the latter — 
Port de Prance Harbor— The Town— Tropical Fruits— Cheering 
Strains. 

LETTER IV. 
Martinique, West Indies. - Page 29. 

" Putting on Ship's Harbor Dress " — Introduced to the Inhabitants — 
" Coaling Ship " — Ship's Rations — " Boxing the Compass " — 
Rambling Ashore — Mistaken Kindness — ^Fort de France — The 
Streets — Buildings — " Quarter Deck Guard " — ^Aground — ^Afloat 
Again — Go 'round to St. Pierre — A glance at the Town. 

LETTER V. 
Martinique to Cape Verdes. - Page 40. 
" General Quarters " — Scrubbing Hammocks and Washing Clothes — 
Divisional Routine — Daily Routine — Relative Position and Duties — 
"Cleansing Ship "—Meeting Vessels— Sight the Cape Verdes— 
St. Antonio and St. Vincent — Porto Grand Harbor — " Bird Rock " 
— " Washington's Head " — The Town from the Ship — Inhabitants — 
Our Flag. 



X CONTENTS. 

LETTER VI. 

Cape Verdes. - - Page 47. 

News from Home — Mourning for President Lincoln — Target Prac- 
tice — On Shore — A word about Sugar — Leave for Porto Praya — 
St. Jago — Porto Praya Harbor — The Town — Money — Fresh Pro- 
visions — Result of One's Misdeeds — A Ealse Alarm — Visitors — A 
Fair One— Reminiscences — The Lost Anchor. 

LETTER Vn. 
PoKTO Pkaya to St. Catharine. - Page 54. 
Rough Weather and Sea-sickness — Jib Bogue — Neptune's Visit — Be- 
calmed — "By the Wind " — Half Rations — Off Rio Janeiro — Scene- 
ry — " Sold " — Steer for Montevidio — The Pampero — First Storm at 
Sea — A Fearful Night — ^In the Vortex of the Hurricane— Trying 
Moments — " About Ship " — " Land Ho !'.' — Put into St. Catharine. 

LETTER Vin. 

St. Catharine. - - Page 66. 

Coal and Provisions — Hard Bread — More News from Home — An Or- 
anging Expedition — "Fourth of July" — "Dressing Ship" — Depart 
for Rio — Chess — Preparations for entering Rio — Entering the 
Bay — Sugar Loaf—The Scenery of the Bay of Rio Janeiro — The 
Bay — Coaling Ship — Healing the Breach. 

LETTER IX. 

Rio Janeiro. - - - Page 76. 
Ceremonies for the Emperor — Holidays — The Susquehanna — " Ship 
Visiting " — Money and " General Liberty " — A Defaulter — Murder 
of a Messmate — The Funeral — The Ceremony — Wedding of " JNIary 
and John " — At the Landing — Royal Chapel — Paintings — Rua do 
Ouvridor — Rua do Ouvris— Don Pedro Square and Cafe— Coffee — Rio 
Janeirians — Praya Grande — A pleasant Acquaintance with Strawber- 
ries and Cream — The French Theatre — Navy Yard and Iron Clads — 
New Use for Window Blinds and Shutters — The Intuitive Portu- 
guese Jealousy — "Mooring Ship " — Visit to Botafogo and Botanic 
Gardens — Repairs. 

LETTER X. 

Rio Janeiro to " The Cape " - Page 92. 

Weighing Anchor — Good-bye to Rio — That Dulchman — Mending — 

A New Personage introduced with New Uses, etc — What a Band !— 



CONTENTS. XI 

Africa Sighted— Good Hope— An Arrival in Port— Simon's Bay, 
South Africa. 

LETTER XL 
Cape Town, South Africa. - Page 99. 

Fishing at Simon's Bay— Toad Pish— Cape Town and Table Moun- 
tain—On Shore— A glance at the City— Castle— Barracks— Wine 
with good advice from Mr. Bacchus— Market and Pair Venders- 
Government Grounds and Colonial Museum — Curiosities — An Ex- 
cursion to Wynberg— Constancia Vineyard— Result of Treading on 
Toes— Visitors and Comical Description of "de Rible Gun"— Our 
Ball— Death of Ryan— The Yeoman— The Hartford— Castle Build- 
ing. 

LETTER XII. 

Batavia, Java. - - Page 112. 

Coffee and Spices !— Leave Cape Town— Theft— A Narrow Escape- 
Sailors' Superstitions— Christmas— Sick at Sea !— Becalmed— Rou- 
tine; Oh how Monotonous and Tiresome !—" Pair Wind, with our 
Engines" — Java Head — Anjer Point — Javanese and Boats — Har- 
bor— Batavia— Sail Ashore — Government Grounds — How we Rode 
and what we Saw — Native and Foreign Quarters — Botanical and 
Zoological Gardens— The George Green— Onrust— Preparations for 
Departure. 

LETTEH XIII. 

Manilla, Luzon. - - Page 126. 

From Batavia to Manilla — Waterspouts — Target Practice — Borneo — 
Fruitless Search for " Wild Men"— Luzon— Manilla— Inhabitants- 
Dress — The Town — Earthquakes — Cigars and Manufactories— Visit 
the Cathedral— La Plaza— Native Quarter— " Washington's Birth 
day " — Garroting. 

LETTER XIV. 
Hong Kong, China. - - Page 134. 
Manilla to Hong Kong — Sight Hong Kong — The Irate Admiral — 
First Introduction to Chinese — Appearance and Costumes — Hong 
Kong Harbor and Island — Victoria — ^News from Home. 

LETTER XV. 

Macao, China. - - Page 141. 

Passage from Hong Kong — Picturesque Appearance of Macao — " Gen- 
eral Liberty " — " Fast Boats " and Tanka Girls — Experience with 



XU CONTENTS. 

them going ashore — The Cathedral — Chinese Quarter — ^Barbered — 
Costumes — ^Foreign Quarter — ^Palanquins — Chinese Theatre — Cam- 
oens and Chinnery — Humanity, Swapping Black Skins for Yellow 
ones. 

LETTER XVI. 

Canton. - - - Page 150. 

Leave Macao — Canton River Scenery — Chinese Graves — Features in 
Landscape — Approaching the City — Varieties of Boats — " Facto- 
ries " — Arrival of Admiral — Importunities of Tanka Girls — Curiosi- 
ty Street and Curiosities— Silks — City Walls — Bird's-Eye View — 
Houses — Streets — Business — ^Execution Ground, etc — Honan Side — 
Visit of Governor — Mandarin Costumes — Beggars and Curious 
Law. 

LETTER XVII. 

Hong Kong. - - Page 165. 

Leave Canton — "Whampoa Anchorage — A shore view of Hong Kong — 
Queen's Road — " Old Sam " — Incident Illustrative of Chinese Imi- 
tation. 

LETTER XVIII. 

Shanghai. - - Page 170. 

Hong Kong to Shanghai — " A Man Overboard !" — Run a Junk Down 
— Woosung — Shanghai from Forecastle — A Shore View — Sam- 
pans-^Native City — Taeping Monument. 

LETTER XIX. 

Newchwang. - . - Page 179. 
Leave Shanghai — Shantung Promontory — Yingtse— Hu — " The Long- 
Knife Man " — His Band and their Depredations — An Unsuccessful 
Expedition — Our Midnight Sortie and Success — Tortures and Exe- 
cutions — Chinese Currency — Drowning of Breems — Surveying the 
Bar — The Tautai's Visit — A New Pet — Incidents of Stay — Inde- 
pendence Day. 

LETTER XX. 
Chefoo and Tung-chow-foo. - Page 189. 
Leave Newchwang — The Great Wall— Takoo — Chefoo— Go up to 
Tung-chow-foo— The Difficulty— Another Expedition— Turns into 
an Excursion— Return to Chefoo— On Shore— Al Mandarin Travel- 
ing—The Cemetery— General Liberty— The Corean Difficulty. 



CONTENTS. XIU 

LETTER XXI. 
Shanghai and on the Yangtse Kiang. Page 201. 
Chefoo to Shanghai — Depart for Hankow — Yangtse Kiang and Scene- 
ry — Golden and Silver Islands — Chinkiang — Heat, Sickness, and 
Death — Death of Captain Townsend — Return to Shanghai — ^Funeral 
of Captain Townsend — Obituary Notice. 

LETTER XXII. 

Shanghai. - - - Page 212. 
Fever — ^Ramhle about Shanghai — Chinese Prisons — Tea Gardens- 
Tea. 

LETTER XXIII. 
A Look at Japan. - - Page 215. 

A Death and Burial at Sea — Yokohama — Japanese — Dress — Courtesy 
and Salutations — Yokohama Harbor — ^Land at the Hettlebar — Hamo- 
ra Street — ^Bird's-Eye View of Town — ^Drying Tea — Native Quar- 
ter — Incidents of Way — Curiosities — Go up to Yeddo — Escort our 
Minister — What we encountered in our march through the city — 
Minister's Residence and Grounds — Ventilation — Yeddo — The New 

Captain — General Court-Martial — Return to Yokohama — S . 

bids us " Good-bye " — Depart for Nagasaki — Oosima — The Typhoon 
— Enter Inland Sea — Divisions — Scenery, etc. — Nagasaki Harbor — 
The Town — ^Japanese Currency — Horseback Ramble about Naga- 
saki — A few words about Japanese. 

LETTER XXIV. 

Hong Kong. - - - Page 236. 
Nagasaki to Hong Kong — Arrival — Go up to Macao for Pete—Cruis- 
ing after Pirates — ^Description, Mode of Attack, etc. — ^A Sad Inci- 
dent—Visit an Opium Saloon—" Take a Whiff," and Effects— Cen- 
tral Market — Public Gardens — Kowloon Shore — The Eire — Cool. 

LETTER XXV. 
Hong Kong. - - - Page 243. 
Cruising Northward — Tsing Hoy— Swatow — ^Amoa Straits — Tung 
Sang — Salt Works — Sweet Potatoes-r-Off Amoy — Scenery — Amoy 
— On Shore— Chinese Cemetery — Graves, etc.— White Stag Hill — 
Picturesqueness of Kulang-soo — Sunday Services with Attractions — 
Return to Hong Kong — Thanksgiving — Lose Dr. Pa^e. 



XIV CONTENTS. 

LETTER XXVI. 

Whampoa. - - - Page 253. 

Go up to Whampoa — In Dock — Repairing — ^A Sad Death— Curiosi- 
ties — Summary Punishment for Stealing — A Word on Chinese Gov- 
ernment — A Ramble into Interior — Music and Wine — ^New Town — 
In the Country — Bananas — Pagoda Eminence — The View — ^Inside 
the Pagoda — Old Whampoa — Chinese Ploughing — Grinding — Print- 
ing early known, Manner of, etc. — Parsee Burying Ground — Chi- 
nese Funeral — The Joss Tower — Return to Hong Kong — Christmas 
Festivities — A Sad Parting. 

LETTER XXVn. 

Chefoo. - • - Page 269. 

Depart for the Northward — In Linchan Bay — A Typhoon — Shanghai 
— Powder Explosion/— Loneliness — A Novel Combat — Depart for 
Chefoo — Arrival — Cold, but Pleasant — Shooting and Skating — The 
General Sherman Affair — Description of Chinese Written Language 
and the Spoken — Learning in China. 

LETTER XXVIII. 

CoKEA. - - - Page 277. 

Depart for Corea — Approaching the Land — Nein-Fo — Coreans — 
Dress, Appearance, etc. — Communications sent to King of Corea 
and Chief of Province — Survey and Nomenclature of Bay and In- 
lets—The Chief's " Winter Cap "— Filthiness of Coreans— A Tough 
Yarn — Corean Version of Gen. Sherman Affair — Unsatisfactory Re- 
ply to Communications — A Vindictive Savage — Go to Port Hamil- 
ton (Nanhoo) — The Harbor — Islands — Villages — Houses — General 
Remarks upon Coreans. 

LETTER XXIX. 

Shanghai. - - - Page 285. 
Passage from Corea — At Shanghai — Chinese New Year's Holidays — 
Customs — Calls — Dress — Visit of Catholic Missionaries — Ship Vis- 
iting and Pleasant Acquaintances. 

LETTER XXX. 
Second Trip up Yangtse-Kiang. - Page 289. 
Summary of Past Year with us — Delightful Weather — Depart from 
Shanghai — Tte Grand Canal — Scenery and Sights up the RiA^er — 



CONTENTS. XV 

Chinese Landscapes — ^Floating Farms — Hankow — Size of, form, de- 
fenses, etc. — Scene on Han Elver — Sailing through a Crowded 
Thoroughfare — A City on the Water — " Laws of the Road " — Visit 
Wuchang — International Sports on Shore.. 

LETTER XXXL 
Down the Yangtse. - - Page 297. 
Rebels and Refugees — Origin of " Land Pirates" — A Brutal Deed — 
Kiukiang — Burning Cities — Courage — Chinese Military — A Battle 
— Porcelain — Tea — A Large Story — Nankin — Notorieties — The Por- 
celain Tower — A Sham Battle — Return to Shanghai. 

LETTER XXXII. 
FoocHOw AND NiNGPO. - . Page 306. 
To Foochow by Inland Passage — Scenery of the Min — Pagoda Anchor- 
age — On the Pagoda — Foochow — Soap Stone Carvings — Foochow 
to Chinhae — " Joss-House Hill " — Chinhae — Approaching Ning- 
po — Suburbs — " Heaven-conferred Pagoda " — The Mohammedan 
Mosque — A " Sing- Song House " and Female Temple — The City 
— Houses — Courts, etc. — Services and Attractions — The Confucian 
System, 

LETTER XXXIII. 

Shanghai. - - - Page 319. 
Passage from Ningpo— The Fire— The Captain's Speech— Our Church 
— " For to go and see the Races " — Firemen's Muster — A Desirable 
Acquaintance — Taou System of Religion — A Ride under Difficul- 
ties — Cremorne Gardens — Sik-a-wai, and Incidents of Ride. 

LETTER XXXIV. 

Shanghai. - - - Page 336. 
The American Arms at Formosa — A Horrible Eij^ecution — Small Feet 
— The " Glorious Fourth "—Boat Racing — Christianity in China — 
Outline of Chinese Government — Kites and Kite-flying. 

LETTER XXXV, 

PooTOO. - - - Page 347. 

Cruising for Sanitary Purposes — Ningpo and Passengers — Chusan — 
Tinghai — " Chickens for Sailors ! " — Beauties of Pootoo — Temples', 
Services, Devotions, and Duties — Prayers — Introduction of Bud- 
dhism — Doctrines — Present Condition — Sacred Flowers — Genii's 
Well— Surf Bathing. 



XVI CONTENTS. 

LETTER XXXVI. 

Hong Kong. - - - Page 362. 
Pootoo to Shanghai — "Homeward Bound " — ^Excitement — Hong Kong 
— Our Fleet — Typhoon Season. 

LETTER XXXVn. 
Hong Kong. - - - Page 368. 
Transferred to United States Flag Ship Hartford — The Wachusett and 
Wyoming go — A glance at the Hartford — Another Typhoon. 

LETTER XXXVIII. 
Nagasaki, Japan. - - Page 375. 
Hong Kong to Nagasaki — "Winter's Coming Again" — Rumors — 
Japanese Traditions, Basis and Form of Government, Laws, Etc. — 
Death of the Admiral's Secretary — Piracy, and arrival of Ship- 
wrecked Party. 

LETTER XXXIX. 

HiOGA, Japan. - - - Page 380. 
Leave Nagasaki — Simonosaki — Wonderful Dwarfs, Etc. — Hioga — A 
sad Christmas — More Rumors — " Opening the Ports " — Prospects of 
Japan — Go over to Osaca — The City — Tycoon's Palace — "The 
Barge has Capsized ! " — Bringing off the Living and the Dead — Our 
Drowned Shipmates — ^A House of Death — Return to Hioga — The 
Funeral — To Osaca by Land — Laws in regard to Christianity — Per- 
fection of Japanese Police — Pagoda, with its Temples, Inn, Etc., in 
Outskirts of Osaca— In the City—" Necessity the Mother of Inven- 
tion." 

LETTER XL. 
Hong Kong. - - - Page 396. 
Return to Nagasaki — Transferring — Nagasaki to Hong Kong — Gam- 
bling—An Adventure in Canton— The " Feast of Lanterns "—Go 
up to Whampoa — Chinese mode of Printing and Manufacture of 
Books— Diet of Common People— A Chinese "Tea Drinking"— A 
Glance at Chinese History — Boundaries and Extent of China — Pop- 
ulation — Ready for Home. 

LETTER XLI. 
Singapore, East Indies. - - Page 411. 
"Homeward Bound" — Passage from Hong Kong— Singapore — Ma- 
hometans—A Charming Ride— The Lorcha— " Humbugging "—Ar- 
rival of the Piscataqua — Fruits, Etc. 



CONTENTS. XVU 

LETTER XLII. 
Cape Town, South Africa. - Page 422. 
" Homeward Bound " Again — Anjer Point — A Blow— Hole-in-the- Wall 
Simon's Town — Cape Town. 

LETTER XLIII. 

St. Helena. - - - Page 425. 

Cape Town to St. Helena—-" The Fourth " — Ladder Hill— Jamestown 

—"The Briars "—Plants and Stones— " Willow Cottage"— The 

"Cabbage Tree"— The Tomb of Napoleon— Old Long House— 

Hutt's Gate — Superficies, &c,, of St. Helena. 

LETTER XLIV. 

New York. - - - Page 435. 
Our Last Passage— Home Again — Farewell. 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 



J. B. Lawrenck frontispiece, 

Magao, China, .140 

Street Barber, 1'^^ 

Shanghai, China, ^^"^ 

Smoking Opium, • • • -^^ 

WHAMroA Reach, -^^ 

Pagoda Anchorage, Foochow, 306 

Hong Kong, China, • • ^^^ 

Tycoon's Palace, Osaca, 386 



LETTERS. 



LETTER I. 



U. S. S. Wachusett, Boston Harbor, ) 
March 1, 1865. ) 

My Dear R. : 

At last my long cherished desire is about to be attained — ■ 
that of going to sea. You know how strong that desire has 
been, how long and eagerly I have striven to attain it, and 
now that success is about to crown my undertakings, you can 
better imagine my feelings than I can describe them. It was 
your earnest request that I would write you at length con- 
cerning what I might see, hear, or think, that might savor of 
interest to you, leaving me to select such matter as I might 
deem interesting. At the same time you promised that 
whatever should fail to awaken the interest anticipated 
should be as thankfully received as though it had accom- 
plished the desired end, in short, promising in all cases to 
take the will for the deed. In view of such a request, so 
favorably conditioned, I could not do less than I did, — cor- 
dially promise that so far as it should lie within my power, I 
would gratify you. 

About a week ago I learned that the Wachusett would soon 
be ready for sea, and that she was bound for China. That 
country, above all others, I have ever been anxious to visit, 
and, as a favorable account of the Wachusett oflScers had 
been given me by a friend who was acquainted with them, I 
2 (9) 



10 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

was induced to volunteer for her. So many of my applica- 
tions to be sent to sea having been refused before, I was a 
little apprehensive that this one might share a similar fate, 
but when the Marine Guard was detailed for the Wachu- 
sett this mornitig, I found myself to be one of the number. 
There were fifteen of us in all ; one sergeant, two corporals, 
and twelve privates, constituting what is called a " Sergeant's 
Guard." 

With one exception, I have no acquaintance with any of 
them, but so far as appearances go, I should call them an 
intelligent body of men, such as know their duty and will 
not hesitate to perform it, and among whom I shall find some 
worthy and congenial associates. In the close relationship 
that we, of necessity, must sustain, I shall know them thor- 
oughly ere long. We were ordered to have everything in 
readiness to go on board that same forenoon, and although 
the command came unexpectedly to us all, we set to work 
packing and making the many necessary preparations for 
the change from barrack life to shipboard existence, and long- 
before noon all were ready. 

Then came the leave takings — parting with the friends and 
acquaintances that we had made whilst together in Barracks. 
One and all were agreed that we were fortunate in being 
selected for the " Wachusett's Guard," and " a pleasant cruise 
— an interesting cruise — you are going to have," were their 
words as we shook bands and said " good-bye." 

A final inspection under the " Arcade ! " then we slung 
knapsacks, and, to the sound of the fife and drum marched to 
the lower end of the Navy Yard, where the Wachusett was 
lying alongside the wharf. But one regretful face did I see 
in the " Guard," and I do not Avonder at its being regretful, 
for H. has but a few months longer to serve, and already has 
had nearly forty months' sea service. Arriving at the wharf 
we marched on board the Wachusett, over planks thrown out 
from her after pivot port — the Wachusett, which is to be our 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 11 

home for the next thirty months at least. Not very attrac- 
tive or home-like did it appear to us — everything in uproar 
and confusion, and dirty — awful dirty ! 

We found the crew on board before us, which numbers 
about one hundred and seventy-five men, of almost every 
color, shade, and nationality. Some of them were dressed in 
citizen clothing, some in the regular man-of-war-man's suit, 
and others with a part of each. It was an easy matter to 
determine that they had just come from the " Guard O," by 
their dirty appearance, and in the way that they kept all 
their possessions about them ; seated on a dirty box, black- 
bag (for clothing) between their knees, and tin-pot, pan, and 
spoon, either held in their hands, or fastened to a belt about 
the waist. Many of them were intoxicated, and were ex- 
hibiting the usual phenomena of such a condition, — singing, 
shouting, and fighting. 

After an inspection by the executive officer, we were per- 
mitted to go below, and, after finding our quarters, we set to 
work cleaning them up and preparing a place for our bag- 
gage, which arrived shortly after, and was stowed away. It 
was now dinner time, but owing to the confusion which ev- 
erywhere prevailed, no dinner had been prepared ; but we 
managed to satisfy the cravings of our appetites with sundry 
slices of cold meat and bread which we had had the fore- 
thought to bring with us from the Barracks. 

Immediately after coming on board three sentries were 
posted and a corporal placed on guard, whose duties are to 
see that no one leaves the ship or comes on board without 
permission from proper authorities, that no liquor is brought 
on board, and that good order everywhere is maintained 
throughout the ship. These are the prominent duties of the 
Marine Guard, but in addition, there are numberless other 
less important ones which they are required to perform, so 
that, although they have nothing to do with the managing and 
cleaning of the ship, they can boast of no more ease or leis- 
ure than the seamen. 



12 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

The unoccupied moments that I have had to-day have 
been spent in a survey of the ship, in which I was accompa- 
nied by a boatswain's mate, who, being well versed in every- 
thing about the ship, was able to impart much valuable in- 
formation. 

The Wachusett is a screw propeller, of one thousand and 
thirty tons burden ; bark-rigged, carrying top-gallant sails ; 
is two hundred and thirty-seven feet length of keel, and 
about forty feet beam ; and carries a battery of ten guns, one 
one-hundred, and two thirty pound Parrot rifles, on pivot ; 
two one-hundred pound rifles, and four thirty-two's — smooth 
bore — on broadside, and a twelve pound boat-howitzer. 
Her tall, slender spars ; long, low, beautifully modeled hull, 
and the gracefulness with which she sits upon the water, 
have compelled all competent judges to pronounce her to be 
one of the finest vessels in our navy. All are already disposed 
to be proud of her, and provided that her sailing qualities 
prove to be equal to her outside appearance, none could ask 
for a better ship. 

The to'gallant forecastle is an unusually large one, extend- 
ing nearly to the foremast. Underneath is a fine, roomy 
place, where the men can find shelter in cold or stormy 
weather. There is the scuttle-butt (in which water for 
drinking is kept), the Captain's galley, and cable compres- 
sers. There are also hooks for about twenty-five to swing 
their hammocks underneath this forecastle. Just forward of 
the foremast is a hatch, with two ladders leading down to 
the berth-deck, and another one just abaft the foremast. 
Continuing on aft to the upper cabin bulkhead, come succes- 
sively the capstan, hundred pound rifle on pivot, fire-room 
hatches and smoke-stack, the four thirty-two's on broadside, 
main-mast, engine-room hatch, steerage and ward-room 
hatches, two one hundred pound rifles on broadside, ward- 
room sky light, mizzen-mast, cabin hatch and sky-light, bin- 
nacles, and helm. The poop is about twenty-five feet in 
length, underneath which is the upper cabin. One of the 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 13 

thirty-pound rifles is mounted on the poop, and the other on 
the forecastle. The bulwarks are about four feet high — very- 
thick and strong:: on top ^f them, extending from the fore- 
castle to the poop, are square troughs, about eighteen inches 
wide and deep — the hammock nettings ; in these the ham- 
mocks are stowed every morning — -protected from the 
weather by a thick, painted, canvas covering. 

Leaving the spar-deck and going down to the berth-deck 
by the ladder at the foremast one finds himself in a dark 
crowded, dirty, ill-ventilated hole^ and, at present, in the 
greatest confusion imaginable. Just picture to yourself such 
a place, and then consider, that although barely seventy-five 
feet in length, it is 'the place where nearly two hundred men 
must eat, sleep, and in a great measure live ! About ten 
feet of the forward part of the deck is partitioned off", and is 
used as an apartment for prisoners — in naval parlance de- 
nominated the "Brig." Close by this are two apartments, 
two feet square — the " sweat-boxes," and near these are two 
reals containing large hawsers. The " galley " occupies a 
central position on the deck, and is said to be an uncommonly 
good and convenient one. Extending along the sides of the 
berth-deck are iron rods about four feet high, called "jack- 
stays," to which the black-bags are fastened. Ranging up 
and down on either side of the deck are the mess-chests, four 
feet Jong and two feet wide and deep, in which are kept the 
dishes and some articles of food. In the after corner, on the 
port side, is the Paymaster's Issuing-room, and in the oppo- 
site corner are two small rooms, one of which is the Ser- 
geant's Store-room, and the other the Surgeon's Dispensary. 
Between these rooms are two coal-shutes, and a reel holding 
an eleven-inch hawser, leaving a narrow passage-way behind 
them, in which is a table, at which I am now sitting and 
writing to you. The berth-deck is separated from the fire- 
room by a double-walled partition of wood and iron. 

Underneath the forward part of the berth-deck are several 



14 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

store-rooms, the Yeoman's room, and the powder magazines. 
Underneath the after portion are the holds, chain-lockers, 
and water-tanks. 

The berth-deck is lighted by means of small, round aper- 
tures in the ship's sides, which are closed by thick circlets of 
glass, set in iron frames, and called " dead-lights." If these 
were but cleaned of the dust and cob-webs that now cover 
them, the ship would be far lighter than it now is — lighter in 
both acceptations of the word. 

Of the remaining parts of the ship I will make mention in 
some future letter, when I have had more time and better op- 
portunities for examining them, and am better acquainted. 
I have had as yet no good opportunities for forming an opin- 
ion of the crew, and should I narrate my experiences thus far, 
with them, there would be nothing but what you might see 
and hear every day around any rum-selling tavern. So I 
shall wait for something better. 

Now, provided your patience, even, has held out thus far, I 
imagine that I hear you saying to yourself — " I think that L. 
really needed all the promises that I made him ; I shall have 
to take the will for the deed, and if all his letters are going 
to be of this stamp, I am afraid that they will fail to awaken 
the interest and pleasure that I hoped and expected to derive 
from them." 

Have patience, my dear E,., I know that the most that I 
have written thus far, must seem dry and uninteresting to 
you ; but yet, exercising that liberty of selection which you 
so kindly granted me, I thought best, in the first place, to 
give you some description of the place that for so long a time 
I must call my home, and some little insight into my duties : 
then, I shall be the better able to devote my whole time and 
space to the narration of the interesting incidents of the 
cruise. So I have devoted this introductory letter to the 
aforesaid description and insight, and now I think that I can 
promise you, that in my next letter you will find a change 
lor the better. 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 15 



LETTER II. 

arbor, > 



U. S. S. Wachusett, Boston Harbor 
March 4, 1865 
My Dear R. : 



A cold, drizzling rain has baptized our first three days' 
stay on board the Wachusett — the beginning of from two to 
three years of such existence. Of course you wish to know 
how our time has been employed, so I w^ill tell you. One 
and all have been as busy as bees, and hard at work from 
morning till night in making the thousand and one necessary 
preparations for sea. 

In commencement I must narrate to you my first night's 
experience. Leaving barracks in such haste as we did, 1 
was not sulficiently careful in slinging my hammock, as I 
found out by an unpleasant occurrence. I was very tired and 
sleepy, and was folded in the embrace of Morpheus almost 
as soon as I had got into my hammock, bat had been in this 
agreeable situation but a very few minutes when " down I 
came by tlie run," the clews having shpped out from both 
ends of the hammock. I was so seriously injured by the 
fall, that I have been unable to do any duty since. 

Did you ever sleep in a hammock? If not, you have 
missed one of the greatest discomforts there is in the world. 
Before trying to impress upon your mind wherein that dis- 
comfort consists, I must first endeavor to give you some idea 
of the construction of a hammock. Take a piece of canvass or 
strong cloth, six feet in length and three in width, and make 
ten or twelve eyelet holes in each end; then, in these holes 
fasten — securely, mmd you — strong cords, about two feet long ; 
and the other extremities of the cords, at each end, fasten to a 



16 CHINA AND JAP AM, 

ring ; by means of the rings, hang up the hammock on hooks, 
so placed that it will be stretched nearly as much as possible ; 
now place in it a mattress to lie upon, a blanket for covering, 
and the hammock is ready for use. Be very careful, now 
in getting into it, else you will meet with the same mishaps 
that I met with in my first attempts. First I tried getting 
into it the same as though I was getting into a bed. The 
result was, I went completely over it, striking head foremost 
on the deck on the opposite side. Next, I made the attempt 
from a camp-stool, but that plan ended like the first, by my 
being on deck. The third trial, I took hold of two ham- 
mock hooks overhead, and finally managed to swing myself 
into the hammock, but had to keep firm hold of the hooks 
to prevent my falling out ; and there I lay, not daring to let 
go, or move even. To make this more impressively disagree- 
able, you need to be slightly sea-sick, feel miserably in gen- 
eral, and have the ship rolling and pitching about wildly. 

But to return, you are now in your hammock, and find 
yourself describing an arc of a circle, with your head and 
feet elevated at an angle of about forty-five degrees, whilst 
the sides of the hammock are drawn up around you, so that 
it would not take a great stretching of the imagination for 
you to imagine yourself in a bag. In this undertaking you 
would have great assistance could you only be situated as we 
are — each man's " billet," or sleeping room being but four- 
teen inches wide. Seven men sleeping in a bed eight feet 
wide affords the best comparison that I can make. When one 
turns or moves, the motion is communicated to all ; conse- 
quently we are ever pleased when a neighbor is called to go 
on post. This for the past few days has had its drawbacks, 
for, when he would return after his two hours of guard duty 
were over, just as we were beginning to enjoy the luxury of 
" more room," we had a wet bed-fellow. Besides this, we can 
never count upon having more than two hours of continuous 
sleep, for, not yet acquainted, the " corporal of the Guard'' 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 17 

often wakens the wrong man — usually, the right man last. 
Still, notwithstanding all these many discomforts, old sailors 
would prefer a hammock to sleep in, to the best bed ; and I 
haven't the least doubt but that 1 shall turn to it as tlie source 
of one of my greatest enjoyments during the cruise. The 
" old salts" had a hearty laugh this eve, at the expense of a 
landsman who was searching for his hammock on the " East 
Boston side of the ship," ■ saying that he placed it there this 
morning. After he had searched the hammock nettings on 
that side many times over in vain, and was about concluding 
that th« hammock was lost, some one told him that the ship 
had swung with the tide since then, and he would probably 
find it on " the Boston side ;" and so he did. 

A few words now about mess arrangements. The crew is 
divided into messes of from ten to twenty persons, and one 
of the number is called the " cook of the mess. He does 
not cook, but receives from the purser's/ steward the daily 
ration allotted to his mess, ties the various articles together 
in bundles and marks them with a stick or talley, on which is 
cut the number of the mess, and takes care of the mess chest, 
the mess pots, pans, dishes, and other articles belonging to 
the mess in common. The rations are always served out on 
the day preceding that to which they belong. Each mess 
cook delivers his share to the ship's cook, who, with an assist- 
ant, prepares it all in the " coppers" under his charge. Just 
before noon he takes a sample to the officer of the deck to 
show that it is properly done, and if so the mess cooks re- 
ceive the " grub" again from the ship's cook. At noon they 
spread painted cloths upon the deck, place the " grub" and 
dishes upon them, and then the boatswain's mates pipe all 
hands to dinner. The same ceremonies are observed at break- 
fast and supper, with the exception that the only articles re- 
ceived from the ship's cook is her water for coffee and tea. 

All the messes have contributed greater or lesser amounts 
with which to purchase extra stores and conveniences for 
2^ 



18 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

their messes, and the berth-deck is now fairly lumbered up 
with barrels of flour, potatoes, and such like articles which 
they have purchased. 

What I have mentioned refers exclusively to the men or 
crew, each division of officers having its own apartment, its 
own cooking apparatus and special cook. Of these divisions 
there are four — the starboard, steerage, or " gun-room," the 
engineer's steerage, the ward-room, and the Captain's. 

To-day " Old Abe" takes the Presidential chair for another 
four years, over which the firing of cannon and the ringing 
of bells indicate that the city, in common with the whole 
nation, rejoice th. God grant that the acts of his administra- 
tion may be tempered with wisdom and justice, and some 
means be devised soon to bring this bitter civil war to a close. 

Sunday March 5th. — This morning the outside world 
brightened up a little. During the forenoon the Captain 
came on board, and after a thorough inspection of the ship, 
etc., we were pronounced to be ready for sea. Accordingly 
at 3 p. M., we weighed anchor and slowly steamed down the 
bay in charge of the pilot. About an hour later we passed 
Fort Warren, and the soldiers there stationed came down on 
the beach and gave us three hearty cheers as we passed. 

I have just been up on the forecastle, taking a farewel' 
look at Boston, and now but the dim outline of the land cai- 
be seen. A farewell look, and for how long ? Some of th 
most sanguine say for only two years, others say thirty months^ 
while there are many who think we will be fortunate if we 
see the United States again within three years. So think I. 
But some there are amongst us who have taken their last 
look of country, friends, home, and all they hold most near 
and dear. We are all hoping that we may not be of that 
number, but Death, the tyrant, ever disregards our wishes, 
and takes us, ready or not. No, it is not probable that the 
Wachusett will prove an exception to the general rule, but 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 19 

it carries out many that have bid home and friends " good- 
bye" forever. 

But all at this time are not sad ; a large number of the 
crew are far from being so ; while many of us are scarcely 
able to keep back the tears from our eyes, at the thoughts of 
the long separation from home and friends, and the possibility 
of never beholding them again, there are many " poor Jacks" 
who have no deeper feeling than that they are leaving a 
hospitable place where they have whiled away a few jovial 
hours, in a social way. He may think of the changes that 
will occur before he returns, but all that kind of gratuitous 
boding will be little more than a flash across Jack's mind 
and if it finds utterance at all, the following stanza may give 
it full vent: 

" The sea bird wheels above the mast, 
And the waters fly below, 
And the foaming billows flashing fast, 
Are leaping xxg the prow. 
Hurrah ! hurrah ! the shores we quit, 
And those who are within, 
May they be safe and standing yet, 
When ice cross these waves again '/' 



20 CHINA AND JAPAN. 



LETTER III. 

U. S. S. Wachusett, ^ 

Fort de France, Martinique, We>t Indies, > 
March 16, 1865. ) 

My Dear R.: 

I will noAV get a letter in readiness so as to. be able to mail 
it at the first opportunity. I left you in my last letter just 
as v»'e were taking a farewell look at the United States. But 
we had only a few minutes given us for the sad thoughts 
which were fast overcoming the most of us, when the boat- 
swain and his mates piped '*all hands to muster." All 
crowded aft on the lee side of the quarter deck, and then the 
executive officer gave all their stirtions at the battery, divided 
the crew into watches, and appointed them to different parts 
of the ship : forecastlemen to the forecastle, foretopmen to 
the foretop, maintopmen to the maintop, and afterguards to 
the after part of the ship. Over each division two captains 
were appointed. The marines and firemen were not included 
in this division, they having their peculiar duties to perform. 

One watch — composed of one-half of the seamen — is kept 
on deck all of the time at sea, to manage and take care of 
the ship, and is relieved by the others every four hours. 
The watch from 4 to 8 p. m. is divided into two watches of 
two hours each, for, otherwise one portion of the crew would 
have the same hours every day. These are denominated 
the " dog-watches." "When " all hands " are called to loose 
or furl sail, get up anchor, or any other business that requires 
" all hands," then no one is excused unless on duty at the 
time that will not admit of being left. 

Other musters a few days later, gave all their stations at 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 2] 

loosing and furling sail, and fire-quarters. The marines 
have the thirty-pound rifle on the poop, are stationed at the 
main try-sail in loosing and furling sail, and at the boats' 
falls, in fire-quarters, with instructions to allow no one to 
lower a boat but by the orders of the commanding officer. 

Our course after leaving Boston was easterly, steaming 
along against a light head wind, until Wednesday morning, 
when it was altered to the southward, and we set fore and 
aft sails. Our destination was a dead secret, of course : many 
knowing conjectures were made as to the first port we v.'ould 
make, but no one knev^^ excepting the Captain and Sailing- 
master ; because, if we all knew, the Captain would be no 
wiser than ourselves, and the profound humbug of mysteries 
would be lost to our wonder. 

The first two or three days out were spent by the crevv' in 
holystoning the decks, ladders, and gratings, with sand, scrub- 
bing the paint-work, cleaning the bright-work at the guns 
and cleaning and polishing up. and putting everything in or- 
der generally. In all this they had such good success that 
at' the end the Wachusett appeared like an entirely different 
ship from the one that first met our gaze Ij'ing alongside the 
wharf at Charlestown Navy Yard. Removing the dust and 
cobwebs from the '^dead-lights," made the berth-deck much 
lighter, as I supposed that it would do. 

Monday evening we crossed the Banks of Newfoundland. 
The night was very dark, and we came very near running 
down a fishing schooner which was " lying to " there. As it 
was we carried away her jib-boom. She had not a single 
light displayed, and if there was any one on " look-out," he 
must have been asleep — certainly he was not attending to 
his duty, else he would surely have seen our lights. I 
should think that their narrow escape would make them 
more careful in the future. 

A few days out, and the crew showed some signs of arous- 
ing themselves out of that lethargy in vv'hich they had been 



22 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

since leaving Boston, and showed themselves to be a smart, 
lively, fine-looking body of men. But what a variety of 
color, shade, and nationality, they present ! If Adam should 
look down upon them from the windows of heaven, he would 
hardly recognize them all as members of his family. One 
evening I had just finished " posting my Journal," when 
hearing the sounds of mirth on deck, I went up to see what 
was going on. Before leaving Boston the crew purchased a 
variety of musical instruments, boxing-gloves, and foils, with 
which to enliven the dullness and monotony of shipboard ex- 
istence. But to return : arriving on deck I found that the 
sounds of mirth which I had heard, proceeded from a party 
dancing to the sound of the violin and guitar. A performer 
was soon found for the banjo, one for the flute, another for 
the tamborine, and yet another for the bones. After a few 
minutes employed in tuning, all struck up together, and then 
one and all joined in a " good old-fashioned breakdown," and 
with such zest and gusto as to fairly make the Wachusett 
tremble. Many of the officers came forward, and although 
the sense of their dignity forbade them from joining, they ap- 
peared to enjoy the sports but little less than the actual par- ' 
ticipants, as was manifested by their cheers, and cries of 
" keep it up." 

When all were tired of dancing, the music struck up some 
familiar home airs, and then the sports of the evening were 
varied by singing. What a purifier and elevator of the 
mind and thoughts is music ! How much it tends to draw 
forth the higher and better feelings of one's nature ! This 
is true, wherever found or under what shape. Some excel- 
lent songs were sung that night, and well sung, too, and I, for 
one, was never more impressed with the power and influence 
of music, than I then was impressed. All felt more cheerful 
and happy for these few hours' [)leasure, and so far as pos- 
sible, have repeated the sports thus inaugurated, with some 
variations, every night. Sometimes we were too tired for 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 23 

sports, as the greater portion of each day was taken up in 
exercising with the battery, and making ourselves acquainted 
with our several duties. We have yet hardly become accus- 
tomed to the great change in the weather, which daily grew 
warmer as we proceeded further to the southward, and even 
before the first week had passed, the last overcoat and muffler 
were stowed away, awaiting some future need. 

The first Sunday out, I was for the first time introduced 
to the manner in which the vSabbath is regarded and kept on 
board of a man-of-war. It is regarded by nearly all, more 
as a day for rest and recreation than anything else. There 
is some faint attempt made outwardly to acknowledge the 
Sabbath, to be sure, but then it is obvious to all that it is 
done only because the law so require th, and the Captain 
wishes to conform to the requirements of the law in this res- 
pect. Many, I found, were seriously questioning and doubt- 
ing in their minds whether or no it was really Sunday, but 
finally concluded that it must be, as rice was served out the 
day before, and " rice is served out only for Sunday dinners." 

It being decided that it tvas Sunday, all set to work clean- 
ing, polishing, and dressing the ship and themselves for the 
Captain's inspection at 10 A. m. Then all assembled at their 
stations at quarters, dressed in their best, and with their arms 
cleaned and brightly polished. Could one only stand on the 
forecastle during a Sunday inspection, when everything is 
so neat and clean, and previously knowing nothing about a 
man-of-war, the sight would impress that one, that a sailor's 
life was elevated above that of common mortals. But one 
short week's experience would thoroughly dispel that illusion. 

After inspection " all hands " were called aft on the quar- 
ter-deck to muster, whilst the sea-service of the Episcopal 
Church was read by the Captain. This is omitted on many 
men-of-war, and done on the Wachusett, as I said before, 
because the Captain wished to fulfill the requirements of the 
law in this respect. I express the feelings of many when I 



24 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

say, that I should like very much to be so situated as to be 
able to attend church every 'Sunday. Without this privilege? 
and surrounded by the ever attending influences of a man- 
of-war, we will find it extremely difficult, sometimes, to make 
Sunday appear like Sunday to us. But many months, years 
in fact, will intervene before that time comes again. 

After service, the remainder of the day, by the kindness 
of the Captain, is given to the crew to smoke, write, read, 
and do such-like things for themselves, as they may choose. 
But once a month, on these sacred Sabbath mornings, we 
have "-' general muster," when the articles of war are read 
to us in all their thundering terrors, and the often recur- 
ring penalty Avhich closes so many sentences, " Death, or such 
other punishment as a court martial shall adjudge" — the 
halter and the bullet. 

In speaking of this, the remark of an eminent surgeon in 
our Navy is brought to my mind. " There seems to be a 
strange overlooking, or inconsistent view of human nature ^ 
or Navy nature . is not human nature. In the first place 
there is an expectation that every one who goes on board of 
a man-of-war, is to hold all sorts of deaths — by hanging, 
shooting, or drowning — in utter contempt. Indeed it seems 
as though he is to seek them as the natural end of existence, 
and to be hung or shot for avoiding them ; and yet these are 
the official threats 

' To hand the wretch in order,' " 
and once a month, on sacred Sabbath mornings, they are fero- 
ciously shaken over our heads, begetting no other feelings 
than contempt or defiance. 

Another statement by the same surgeon is very truthful : 
" The assembled wisdom of the nation, by slow and painful 
processes, got a kind of inkling that terror and threats were 
not the most expedient means of governing the American 
seamen ; and they devised a code which, in pay, privileges, 
and honorable testimonies, offers a reward for fidelity and obe- 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 25 

dience. But this ray of sunshine was not permitted to" 
gleam through the death penalty and the gloom of the ar- 
ticles of war. It was a mistake. How many beside the 
Chinese are befogged by * ola custom ! ' " 

Since leaving Boston, I have been on duty as one of the 
captain's orderlies, and in this capacity I have been able to 
see and know much about our Captain. Those acquainted 
with him can but agree with me in saying that he is a thorough 
seaman, a perfect gentleman, and .one of the most polished 
scholars ever met with. He is a very firm, intelligent looking 
man, of about forty-five years of age, and, although my ac- 
quaintance with him is short, I have no hesitation in saying 
that the appearance is but typical of the man. After serv- 
ing through the Mexican war, he resigned, and was spending 
a quiet life at home at the outbreak of the rebellion. He 
promptly offered his services, and was accepted, his old rank 
of Lieutenant being given him. He was at the passage of 
Forts Jackson and Philip, and the capture of New Orleans. 
Afterwards he did good service on the coast of North Caro- 
lina, and was rewarded by the rank of Commander in the 
regular service. His latest services were rendered while in 
command of the iron-clad Essex, and he is spoken of as be- 
ing " one of the best fighting men on the Mississippi and Red 
rivers." Commander Colvocoresses, was first appointed to 
the command of the Wachusett, but Captain Townsend subse- 
quently received the appointment upon his making the request. 
It is rumored that at the end of this cruise he intends to 
resign and return to citizen's life again. With him as Cap- 
tain, I am certain that we shall have a pleasant and inter- 
esting cruise. 

Lieutenant John W. Philip is the executive officer. He 
is a fine looking, well formed young man, of twenty-five 
years of age, and, judging by his appearance and actions thus 
far, is a man of great determination, and an almost indomi- 
table will.* He is a graduate of the Naval Academy, and 



26 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

although so young, has seen much service. The other officers 
I have seen but little of as yet, and therefore am unable to 
introduce them to you. Will only say that as yet, I have 
had no occasion to disagree with my friend in his good ac- 
count of them. 

From the thorough cleansing of the ship yesterday, as 
well as the polishing down, the crew augured that we would 
soon make some port, and in this surmise, they proved to be 
correct ; for, when I went on deck this morning, I found that 
we were " lying to," and had been thus since midnight. 
Many anxious eyes were looking out for land, and soon their 
search was rewarded, and the joyful cry heard " land ho !" 
A little later, and the high, dark line off our starboard quar- 
ter, resolved itself into two parts, looking like blue clouds in 
the distance, but which were soon known to be the islands of 
Dominica and Martinique. Both of these islands are very 
high and mountainous. Mt. Solferino on Dominica, attains 
to the height of 6,075 feet above the level of the sea, and 
Mt. Peeler on Martinique, to 4,430 feet. 

Our run from Boston was characterized most of the time 
by clear, pleasant weather, a smooth sea, favorable winds, 
and little, if any, sea sickness. To-day is certainly one of 
the most beautiful days I ever saw, just such as one would 
desire on which to behold a foreign shore for the first time- 
Soft and balmy is the air, blue and gently rippling the sea, 
and everything in nature apparently striving to make all 
things appear beautiful to us, and to create in us fit thoughts 
and feehngs to enjoy whatever is beautiful. 

As soon as it was daylight, we got up steam and started 
ahead again, leaving Dominica on our starboard boAv, and 
Martinique on our port. The islands are situated about forty 
miles apart, but they are so high and mountainous that it ap- 
peared to be barely one-third that distance as we passed be- 
tween them. 

Don^inica presented to our view nothing but a Iiuge mass 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 27 

of barren rock, but, on tlie other hand, the prospect was en- 
tirely different. More than one I heard to exclaim, " how 
beautiful !" as they gazed upon the ' shore of Martinique. 
Indeed it was truly beautiful, its beauty enhanced no doubt 
by the great contrast it presented to the last view of the 
country we had left so recently. There the ground was 
covered with ice and snow, and everything barren and dead. 
Here everything is fresh and green, the hills clothed with 
verdure, the trees covered with leaves and fruits, and the air 
warm and balmy as that of our summer. The change seems 
almost wonderful ; 'tis like going to sleep in mid-winter, and 
not waking again till mid-summer. 

At such a time, and in such a scene one may be excused 
a little poetical emotion — nay, would not one without it have 
that unpoetical soul which the master of the human heart has 
told us, is " fit for treason, stratagem, and spoil ?" It has 
been remarked that, " islands, all islands, are poetical exis- 
tences in themselves : their philosophy is poetry, mysterious 
in their sea boundaries, cut off from the grave, solid, unchang- 
ing character of the mainland ; they grow gradually from 
the deep sea depths, by the microscopic labors of the coral, 
insect, or thrown at once into the upper air amid earthquake 
throes, and volcanic convulsions, shaking the earth to its cen- 
tre. They are the abodes of pirate heroes, and goat skin 
clad Cruisers." Nothing of this kind, however, is the story 
that Martinique has to tell. It simply has to boast that here 
Josephine, the first wife of Napoleon, was born, and that 
here her early childhood was passed. 

But to return to where I was before this digression, near- 
ing Martinique, whose shores we were all admiring so much. 
Deep gulhes cut the mountainous sides — beautifully wooded 
glens, through which charming rivulets could be seen tracing 
their course by the flashing and sparkling of the waters in 
the sunlight as they leaped over some miniature precipice. 
Between these wooded glens were patches of sugar cane, 



28 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

grain, and vegetables, the whole dotted here and there by a 
dwelling, embowered in a grove of orange trees. 

I was on duty at the time, and perhaps I did not conduct 
myself exactly a la militaire, standing up in the after pivot 
port, and with my little glass taking a view of everything 
that we passed, in short, utterly unconscious that I was not 
on some pleasure trip, instead of being under the rigid dis- 
cipline of a man-of-war. But no one said me " nay," and 
I can but think that the Captain kindly permitted it all, for 
several times I noticed him smilingly watching my enthusi- 
astic observations. Let it be as it may, I enjoyed it all, and 
was not reproved, so / am satisfied. One of the principal 
benefits which I am to derive from my being in the Navy, 
is to see foreign countries, and to learn something of the 
manners, customs, and other points of interest about the peo- 
ple. So I shall gratify my curiosity, and benefit myself, 
whenever an opportunity offers itself, so that it can be done 
consistently. 

Farther on, and leaving the high lands, we next sailed 
along the shores of a low, level section of the island, and 
which was in a high state of cultivation. Thus alternating, 
at one time having the country nearest us high and moun- 
tainous, then low and level, and our course constantly chang- 
ing as we followed the shore line, we finally entered a large 
indentation of the coast on the southern side of the islands, 
and at noon dropped anchor, about half a mile from the 
pretty little town of Fort de France, situated at the inner- 
most point. 

The harbor here is large, and, although merely an inden- 
tation in the coast, it is said to be very secure, as the wind 
seldom blows from the direction of the open sea during a 
storm. There is but little shipping here, two or three mer- 
chant vessels, two English and three French men-of-war, 
with a few schooners and smaller craft comprising the whole. 

The town stretches along a slightly sloping pebbly beach, 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 29 

and as viewed from the ship, it is exceedingly neat and quite 
picturesque, with its small whitewashed, tile-roofed houses, 
and, scattered here and there, fine large mansions situated 
in beautiful gardens and fairly embowered in trees. To the 
left of the town is a bold, rocky eminence, on the summit of 
which stands a large stone fortress, from whose tall flag-staff 
floats the tri-color — Martinique belonging to the French. Be- 
hind the town the land rises abruptly so as to form quite a 
high mountain. About half way up its side, a small cottage 
is pointed out to me as the one in which Josephine was 
born. 

I should like very much to go on shore this afternoon and . 
sit awhile under the trees of the pretty little park, near the 
middle of the town, and which looks so charmingly cool and 
inviting from the ship. Although but little more than two 
weeks ago I was on shore, it actually seems as though it was 
more than as many months. Oh for a good ramble in the 
country ! To fully realize this great deprivation, one must 
have a nature which leads him from the trammels of city life, 
must to the fullest extent be susceptible to the charms of 
country life — in the country finding what is most congenial 
to his nature. This is the better, the holier, the happier 
solitude to which the poet invites. It is to the wilds and 
groves of Nature. 

" God's first temples ere man learned 
To hew the shaft and lay the architrave 
* And spread the roof above them, — ere he framed 
The lofty vaults, to gather and roll back 
The sound of anthems." 

There indeed may the lonely ones 

" Go forth, under the open sky, and list 
To Nature's teachings, while from all around, 
Eatth and her waters and the depths of air, 
Comes a still voice." 



30 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

For those having such natures, it will take a long time, if 
it is ever done, to become fully reconciled to this close con- 
finement of shipboard existence. 

As soon as we were anchored, numerous small boats came 
hurrying off from the shore with washerwomen, and other 
persons desirous of our patronage and of supplying us with 
the many comforts which sea-worn people are apt to require. 
The most attractive articles to us were those oranges^ pine- 
apples, bananas, cocoanuts, and other fruits peculiar to a trop- 
ical clime. Those of us who were so fortunate as to have 
some of the rhino, rapidly invested it in that inviting stock. 
We tasted tropical fruits for once. Most of the crew have a 
good supply of "stamps," but those are almost worthless here. 
Many times have I seen a silver dollar refused to be given 
for a five dollar greenback. 

As I sit here engaged in writing, the soul-stirring strains 
of the " Star Spangled Banner" are wafted to my ears 
through the open port, from the Frencli "Liner's" band played 
out of compliment to us. The air has ever been a favorite 
one of mine, but doubly dear and impressive does it now 
seem to me, as I hear it in a foreign land, from foreign 
sources. Near me one is accompanying the air, with the 
words, and more deep, more heartfelt than ever before is the 
wish now uppermost in my mind that ever 

" The Star Spaugled Banner in triumph may wave, 
O'er the land of the free, and the home of the brave." 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 31 



LETTER IV. 

U. S. S. Wachusett, &t. Peirre, Martinique, '} 

April 2, 1865. j" 
My Dear R. : 

My last letter to you, left us anchored at Fort de France, 
after an eleven days' passage from Boston. The two days 
succeeding our arrival were employed by the crew in clean- 
ing up the ship and " putting on her harbor dress," so that 
she was in proper trim to receive the numerous visitors who 
came Sunday afternoon. 

The French are the ruling race here. Beside them there 
are a few English merchants, and also a few Americans, 
but the great mass of the inhabitants are negroes. In every 
respect these are an exact counterpart of those in our own 
country. As you have doubtless become fully acquainted 
during the war with the characteristics of the negro, and the 
many phases of slavery, I will not weary you by a lengthy 
account of them as seen here. 

Tuesday, March 21st, we hauled alongside the coal- wharf, 
and in the afternoon commenced " coaling ship." We began 
at two o'clock, and in less than four hours the bunkers were 
all filled, more than two hundred tons having been taken in. 
The celerity with which this coaling was performed, excelled 
that of any w^hich I ever saw or heard of where manual 
labor alone was employed. To me it presented an exceed- 
ingly novel and interesting spectacle. The forward and after 
pivot ports were both let down, and planks thrown out from 
them to the wharf. The workmen, were almost exclusively 
women, and they carried the coal in little shallow baskets, 
(each holding about three pecks,) upon their heads. Once 



32 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

having commenced, thej kept up ^ continuous stream— com- 
ing in tlirough the for'ard port with the full baskets, and pass- 
ing out through the after port with the empty baskets. One 
out of every twenty of the baskets was weighed, and record 
of the number carried in, was kept by an apparatus somewhat 
resembling the smaller size of Fairbank's platform scales, 
which made a mark every time the platform was stepped 
upon. I watched the human stream passing in and out, dur- 
ing the entire time that it was engaged in coaling, without 
tiring, and, although " coaling ship " is ever an unpleasant, 
dirty time, I could'nt help feeling a little regretful that it was 
so soon finished. The ship was " washed down," and we re- 
turned to our old anchorage that same night. 

An altercation just now between the purser's steward and 
some berth-deck cooks, determines me to say a few words 
about government rations. One and a quarter pounds of fresh 
or salt beef, or three- fourths of a pound of pork, twenty-two 
ounces of soft bread or flour, or sixteen ounces of hard bread to 
each man ; eight quarts of beans, or ten pounds of rice, eight 
pounds of roasted coffee or a pound and one-half of tea, and 
fifteen pounds of sugar to one hundred men is the daily al- 
lowance. In addition to this there is an allowance of six 
pounds of butter to one hundred men twice a week, and salt, 
vinegar, pickles, and molasses, almost as much as desired. 
The only articles the government furnishes us for breakfast 
and supper, are hard bread and coffee, or tea. Mondays, 
Wednesdays, and Saturdays, we have pork and beans for 
dinner. The pork that we have had thus far, if not " still- 
fed pork," bears a striking resemblance to it, and decidedly 
is not fit to be eaten. The beans are boiled with the pork, 
thus making a soup. Tuesdays and Fridays we have for 
dinner " salt horse and duff." The latter is a sailor's plum 
pudding with musty dried apples for the plums. Yet if it 
is well made, and one is hungry, the " duff" is quite palata- 
ble. To get some idea of the " salt horse," take a piece of 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 33 

sole leather thoroughly impregnated with salt-petre, and chew 
it. It may seem almost incredible to you, nevertheless it is 
true, that nearly all the salt beef we as yet have received, 
has been nearly as tough, tasteless, and devoid of nutriment 
as the piece of sole leather with which it has been compared. 
Thursdays, we have canned meat and dessicated potatoes. 
Very few like the beef, and I must confess that sometimes I 
have had serious doubts of its heingheef. The potatoes bear 
a close resemblance to sawdust, before they are cooked, nor 
does the resemblance cease with the cooking, for then they 
have scarcely any more taste and nutriment than the saw- 
dust would have. I have seen dessicated potatoes that were 
good, but I am convinced that those furnished us are but the 
refuse of starch factories. Sundays, we have canned beef 
and rice. The rice is boiled in water with a little salt thrown 
in, and eaten with molasses ; we find it quite palatable, es- 
pecially when half-starved, as we usually are on Sundays. 
The hard bread resembles soda biscuit in outward appear- 
ance, but there the resemblance ceases, for it is made simply 
of flour and water, and, as the name implies, is very hard 
Not only this, but the bread we have is very old, musty, and 
fairly alive with weevil. Of the coffee, tea, butter, and other 
articles, I will not attempt any description, and will only say. 
that not a single article do we have served out to us that I 
would not be ashamed to offer the meanest beggar at home. 

I have not told you all this about our rations to weary you 
with unhappy complaints ; but to deal justly by you, and to 
present you in my letters, not only with the scenes before my 
eyes, but also with the spirit which looked out upon them, 
and to show, I hope, for the good of those who come after 
me, how many gratuitous annoyances are added to those nec- 
essarily incident to a Naval life. The government pays 
enough for these articles of food to have those of the very 
best quality, and so I suppose it thinks that they are. The 
contractors are the ones that in the main are blamable for the 
3 ■' 



34 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

unwholsome, unpalatable food that we receive — men of such 
small despicable souls,ih2ii for the sake of adding a little more 
to their wealth, do not hesitate to bring years of discomfort 
and suffering upon thousands of those very ones who are de- 
voting their lives to protect them and their ill-gotten wealth. 
For such persons there could be devised no punishment too 
severe, or but what they would richly deserve. The govern- 
ment and especially the heads of the Navy Department are 
by no means entirely freed from blame, because they pro- 
vide means enough to procure good, wholesome food ; it is their 
duty to see that that food is procured. By so doing they 
would have more efficient, better contented seamen, and this, 
too, without any extra expense. 

One day as I was on duty shortly after our arrival at Fort 
de France, Mr. Philip came aft and speaking to several 
" messenger boys " that were standing there, said, " Boys, I 
presume you all wish to go on shore. Now you may go just 
as soon as you are able to ' box the compass.' " 

Of course I was longing to go on shore, too, so after a 
moment's hesitation, I went up to him and said, " Mr. Philip, 
will you rank me with the ' boys ' in this promise ?" 

To this request he smilingly replied, ''yes, Orderly, I 
will." 

" Well then," I said, " I will do it now," and thereupon I 
began and going around both ways, " boxed the compass " to 
his satisfaction. So much for having studied Trigonometry 
before " going to sea." 

When I had finished he said, " Well, you may go ashore 
as soon as your duty will suffer you." 

One beautiful afternoon, a day or two after this occurrence, 
accompanied by two or three friends, I sat out for the shore 
upon my promised liberty. 

A pull of about five minutes brought us to the little pier, 
at the foot of the park near the middle of the town, and then, 
leaping from the boat, I, for the first time placed my foot on 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 35 

foreign soil. All the others in the party had been in many- 
foreign countries, and were not a little amused at my enthu- 
siasm. One remarked, " you will delight more to place your 
foot on the shore of your own country, after you have been 
absent two or three years, than you now are to place it on 
those of a foreign country." Doubtless this may be true, 
but even supposing that it may be so, I cannot on that ac- 
count, see any reason why I should not take as much pleas- 
ure as possible in what I now have. The desire for this priv- 
ilege has been strong with me from my earliest recollections, 
and now I have hopes of its being gratified. 

Several negroes were lounging about the pier, and under 
the trees of the park, and those were the specimens of hu- 
manity to whom we were first introduced. As we landed, off 
went the hats of more than a dozen of them, and every mark 
of politeness and courtesy in their power was shown us as 
they came forward, either soliciting alms, or offering their 
services as guides, each one urging that one's respective 
merits or needs. To some of the most wretched looking we 
gave a few coppers, but soon were forced to desist from all 
such intended acts of humanity, as we found that we only in- 
creased the number of the needy and suffering. The impor- 
tunities of the appHcants for the position of " guide," were 
at length quieted by the selection of one of the most intelli- 
gent appearing of the number. The park we found shorn 
of many of its apparent beauties as viewed from the ship — 
being but a barren common, unfenced, and whose, only at- 
tractions were a few locust trees, and a fine monument near 
its center, erected to the memory of Josephine. 

Now for a look at the streets — queer streets you would call 
them, who have walked on brick side walks, with broad car- 
riage ways intervening. They a,re for the most part mere 
alley-ways, and, except when there are shops or stores, alleys 
between drear walls, with here and there gateways and doors 
opening into the grounds and houses behind the walls. The 



36 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

pavement is composed of small stones, in many places set in 
regular figures, squares, diamonds, etc., and sometimes lined 
off by white stones. It looks very prettily, and the streets 
are very neat and clean, for, being inclined planes, they are 
thoroughly washed by every rain, and besides, through most 
of them a stream of water is constantly flowing. 

The houses are for the most part very small, kept scrupu- 
lously neat and clean, and in general whitewashed on the out- 
side. But besides these, there are many fine looking man- 
sions, situated in fine, deep yards, filled with flower-beds, and 
groves of trees peculiar to a tropical clime. The better class 
of stores are tended by fair French dames, but those are few 
in number, being by far outnumbered by the small, insignifi- 
cant shops, kept by some aged or decrepit negress. At al- 
most every turn of the street we encountered venders of 
cakes, fruits, etc., either having their wares exposed for sale 
on tables and stands by the sides of the streets, or carried in 
baskets on their heads. At the back of the town is a fine, 
large, granite reservoir, from which the town is supplied 
with water. A visit to the cottage in which Josephine was 
born completed the Hst of " sights " to be seen at Fort de 
France. Everything there we found to be plain and unas- 
suming, with no special attraction excepting the fine portrait 
of Josephine, taken in her youth, and which hung against the 
wall in one of the rCOms. , 

Whilst lying at Fort de France, the " Guard " had their 
first introduction to "quarter-deck guard." Would you know 
who or what that might be ? It is simply to stand on the 
quarter-deck from morning until night, dressed in full uni- 
form, cross-belted, and with muskets at hand ready to be pa- 
raded at a moment's notice, for any person of distinction that 
may choose to come on board. I know that it presents a fine, 
showy appearance, this parading in our gay, showy uniform 
coats and hats, white pants and belts, and with everything 
bright and shining ; but if those who delight in such perform- 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 37 

ances could be obliged to stand for a few hours, thus coated 
and belted, in the hot sun, I am sure that they would be less 
zealous for such empty displays. An animated running 
commentary was kept up during the day. 

" I wonder what we are kept up here for, like so many 
fancifully dressed monkeys," says one. 

" To show what they can do, and that the Americans can 
be as foolish and silly as either the French or English," an- 
swer three or four. 

" Well, I wish that whoever is the cause of our being here, 
had to stand with us in this hot, broiling sun," says the first 
speaker. 

" If I had only thought that we would be obliged to use 
this monkey rig, I would certainly have thrown mine over- 
board before we came in here," says another. 

" I wish that it was time to go on post," says a third, and 
all echo the wish. Yes, we all used to feel relieved when 
the time came for us to go on guard, for then we might get 
some shelter from the melting rays of the sun. 

Now don't think that in speaking of all this I am finding 
fault with our officers, for I am not. Why ! did they desire 
it ever so much, they are powerless to demolish such great 
mountains of ancestral humbuggery as these, so strongly are 
all nations bound by, and so completely under the sway of, 
" ola custom." During our stay at Fort de France, a French 
frigate and an English line-of-battle ship came into port, and 
for three or four days we were kept on the quarter-deck all 
of the time in readiness to honor their officers whenever they 
might choose to come on board. During the day I would 
wish that these vessels had not come in, but when evening 
came and we, after being dismissed, had had our supper, and 
had gone up upon the forecastle for our evening chat and 
smoke, then these ships' bands would cheer and enliven us 
with some good old home air, or those of their own country ; 
and, in the enjoyment of the present, we would forget the 



38 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

annoyances of the past. O, Music ! what better tribute can 
I give thee than that thou ever callest to mind the sweetest 
pleasures of life, and ever awaken'st in mj heart purer and 
nobler thoughts ? 

Wednesday, March 29th, we intended coming up here, 
and with this intention, at 4 p. m. we got up steam, weighed 
anchor, and started in high style. But in striving to excel 
ourselves, our grand sweep brought us out of the deep water 
of the harbor, and soon we found ourselves hard aground on 
a ledge of rocks close under the fort. Boats from the 
French and English vessels were immediately dispatched to 
our assistance ; hawsers were passed from us to these vessels, 
but all our united efforts were ineffectual to haul us off. 
After an hour or more spent thus, Captain Townsend, turn- 
ing to Mr. Philip, said in his calm, quiet way, " It is evident 
that we are aground and unable to get off at present. I 
think that you had better give the men their hammocks and 
we will see what can be done in the morning." Fortunately 
it was low tide when we ran aground, and in the morning at 
high tide we were easily hauled off. The next day a couple 
of divers from the French frigate came and thoroughly ex- 
amined the bottom of our vessel, rejoicing us by the report 
that no damage had been done with the exception of tearing 
off a part of a sheet of copper. This they repaired the fol- 
lowing day. 

With everything as good as it was before we ran aground, 
yesterday we got under way and the second time started for 
St. Pierre. Without any accident we arrived here, a distance 
of twelve miles, in less than an hour. 

The harbor of St. Pierre is an open roadstead, affording 
no protection against the storms which are frequent in these 
latitudes, and consequently it has scarcely any shipping. 
Fort de France is the seaport of the island, but St. Pierre is 
by far the largest town, and is the capital. It is very prettily 
situated on both sides of a small ridge which extends back 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 39 

from the sea. A large portion of the houses are elegant 
mansions, situated in beautiful and extensive grounds — the 
abodes of the foreign residents, the- Consuls, and the wealthy. 
The streets are narrow, but the same order and neatness pre- 
vail here as at Fort de France. I was on shore yesterday 
evening, but saw nothing worthy of special note more than 
what I have already mentioned. 

Some time during the night the U. S. S. Connecticut came 
into port, and is now lying near us. Dame Rumor told us 
to-day that one or more piratical vessels were cruising about 
these islands, and that the Wachusett with the Connecticut 
were to cruise about for them. Another story that the Dame 
told us is in the opinion of all more probable. We have a 
roving commission for one year, to cruise after piratical ves- 
sels, more especially in the East India waters, and at the ex- 
piration of the year, are to report at Macao, China. 

Yesterday terminated our first month on board the Wa- 
jhusett, and all seem to acknowledge that it has been fraught 
with more pleasure and interest than was anticipated. It 
truly has been a good commencement to the cruise, and if it 
prove typical of the wdiole, I, for one, shall be satisfied. 



40 CHINA AND JAPAN, 



LETTER V. 

rranc 

April 29, 1865. 



U. S. S. Wachusett, Porto Grande, Cape Verdes, \ 



My Dear R. : 

On the 4tli of April we sailed from St. Pierre, bound for 
some point on the coast of Africa. The first few days out 
were very unpleasant — the wind blowing strongly from the 
northwest, the sea running very high, and all accompanied 
by frequent showers of rain. The sixth day out, it cleared 
off, and during the remainder of the passage we had delight- 
ful weather and everything as pleasant and favorable as we 
could reasonably expect or even desire. We were under sail 
alone during the greater portion of the passage, and had 
such good breezes that we logged on an average more than 
six knots per hour, and arrived here this morning, having 
made the passage in twenty-five days. 

The first incident of interest during the passage was " gen- 
eral-quarters." At these we were exercised the same as if 
we were in action — calling away boarders, repelling board- 
ers, fishing and securing masts that had been shot away, se- 
curing rigging, putting out fires, working the battery, and 
acting out everything that might be necessary to be done in 
an actual engagement. Considering that this was the first 
time that the most of the crew had witnessed anything of 
the kind, they did very well. The Captain and Mr. Philip 
both warmly commended us for our creditable performance. 

The second noticeable incident of the passage was present- 
ed in our scrubbing hammocks for the first time. As yet I 
have had no duty assigned me since on board the Wachusett 
which I dislike more heartily than I do this scrubbing ham- 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 41 

mocks. Shall I give you some insight into the performance ? 
Well, unsling your dirty hammock, (that is, take out the bed- 
ding and remove the clews,) and with the rest of the crew 
spread it down upon the deck. A good stiff brush, a bucket 
of water, and a piece of soap, are essential requisites. Roll- 
ing up one's sleeves and pants, (of course you are barefoot,) 
are not only indications that one is in earnest in one's work, 
but also that there is a desire of keeping the clothes clean, 
which otherwise cannot be done. But we had everything 
prepared to commence operations. After wetting the ham- 
mock^ soap it over thoroughly, and then, down on your hands 
and knees, take the brush and scrub away with all your 
might and main for half-an-hour or more. I can promise 
that you will find it about as tiresome a task as you have 
ever undertaken. I scrubbed upon my hammock for more 
than an hour, and then stopped, not because I had got it as 
clean as desired, but that I was completely exhausted. — 
When I was ready to hang it up, the only vacant space was 
close by the newly tarred stays, so that when it was taken 
down it was nearly as clean as when I commenced to scrub. 
Several were in the same condition, and when hammocks 
were presented for inspection, the order was, " Scrub them 
over." In washing clothes nearly the same process is gone 
through with as in the scrubbing of the hammocks, and like 
them the clothes are hung up on lines extending from one 
mast to another, or betw^een different parts of the " standing 
rigging." There are four " wash-mornings " in a week at 
sea, and two in port, when the washing must be done. 

As we are now fairly settled down into the regular routine 
of " man-of-war life," I will give you the divisional routine 
for exercising, Mondays, general quarters. Tuesdays, 1st 
Division exercise with the battery, 2d Division and marines 
with small arms, and 3d Division with single-sticks. Wed- 
nesdays, 2d Division and marines exercise with the battery, 
3d Division with small arms, and 1st Division with single- 
3* 



42 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

sticks. Thursdays, 3d Division exercises with the battery, 
1st Division and marines with small arms, and 2d Division 
with single-sticks. Fridays, battalion drill with small arms 
and fire-quarters, or, if it is in port, man and arm all boats. 
Saturdays, cleaning, and Sundays, inspection and rest. Oc- 
casionally the Powder Division and the Engineer's Division 
exercise with the battery or small arms. 

Now, perhaps our "daily routine" would interest you. 
At daylight in port, or at seven o'clock at sea, "all hands" 
are called. Only five minutes are allowed for dressing, lash- 
ing hammocks, and stowing them in the " nettings." If more 
time is taken, scraping shot or some similar punishment is 
inflicted. The first business of the morning is to " wash the 
decks down" and clean up generally. Go to breakfast at 8 
A. M. After breakfast clean the bright-work and go to 
quarters at 9 a. m., when the battery, men, and arms are in- 
spected. After quarters the divisions have their exercises 
for the day, and which occupy the greater portion of the fore- 
noon. Go to dinner at noon; "turn to" at 1 p. m., and do 
whatever work may be required. Go to supper at 4 p. m., 
with the usual "meal hour" for eating and smoking. The 
hammocks are "piped down" soon after sunset, and then the 
crew are permitted to smoke and do whatever they may 
choose until 9 p. m., when those not on duty are supposed to 
be in their hammocks and to keep quiet. This is the routine 
when lying at anchor, but when at sea there are some varia- 
tions. A portion of the crew are on deck all of the time, 
and they perform the whole of the work. Instead of nine 
o'clock they " pipe down" at eight. 

All this that I have spoken about — scrubbing hammocks, 
and daily routine, refers exclusively to the enlisted men, 
The several divisions of the officers have each a large room 
in common, and each officer has either a bunk or a state- 
room, small to be sure, but thus dispensing with all need for 
hammocks as well as the vexations attendant upon the pos- 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 43 

session of them. At quarters one or more officers are 
attached to a division, who superintend the working and 
taking care of the battery, etc., themselves under the general 
superintendence of the executive officer, who is in turn under 
the commands of the Captain. At all times there is an offi- 
cer on watch, called the officer of the deck, who, during the 
time he has the deck has full charge of everything about the 
ship, subject only to the orders of the Captain or executive 
officer. 

Last Thursday was devoted to a thorough cleansing of the 
ship. This was imperatively called for, as the lice and other 
vermin usually attendant upon the early part of a ship's 
" commission," instead of lessening in numbers seemed to be 
alarmingly on the increase. Every one's clothes were in- 
spected, and those that were found to be infested with the 
hostile vermin, the clothes were thrown overboard and the 
possessors " scrubbed." Next, all the hammocks and blankets 
were washed and rinsed in hot water and, lastly, the ship 
was washed down fore and aft with boiling hot water. Thus 
the vermin received a *' foretaste of that which is to come." 
We have not been troubled with any signs of them since " the 
cleaning," nor do I think that we will be troubled again this 
cruise.. 

During the passage we both met and passed many vessels, 
several of which we " spoke." 'Tis very pleasant thus to 
meet and converse with those similarly situated — far out in 
the midst of the ocean, to learn one another's ports of depar- 
ture and destination, to exchange greetings, to learn the most 
interesting incidents of each one's passage, and send messages 
to those we have left behind. Yes, 'tis very pleasant, and a 
pleasure known only to those " who go down to the sea in 
ships and do business in the great waters." 

It has been well expressed by a familiar writer, that " in 
a common voyage, if one be asked what he has met, he may 
answer, ' Waves ! waves ! waves !' " since all else that might 



44 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

attract or be noted — the many nameless associations upon the 
ocean — these must be seen and felt to be known : 

" For who can tell, save he whose heart has tried 
And danc'd in triumph o^er the waters wild, 
The exulting sense — the pulses mad'ning play, 
That thrills the wand'rer o'er the trackless way V 

When I went on deck at four o'clock this morning, to take 
my watch, I ascertained that we had been "lying to " since 
midnight, on account of our proximity to the land. At day- 
light we started ahead again, and a few minutes later we 
heard the welcome words " Land ho," sung out from the 
mast head. Soon we were able to see the land from the 
deck, looking like a thick cloud just rising above the horizon. 
Now get down the map, my dear S., and unless you have 
the whole world dotted and spotted geographically in your 
eye, look out the little islands of vSt. Antonio and St. Vincent 
in the Cape Verde group, on the coast of Africa just a little 
north of the line. The first mentioned of these islands was 
the earliest sighted by us, but we did not approach near 
enough to examine it very closely — only saw that it was very 
high, mountainous, and sterile. There is a volcano on the 
eastern side which had an eruption about six months ago, 
and another is daily expected. 

About noon we rounded the southeastern point of St. Anto- 
nio, and then sighted St. Vincent, some twenty miles 
distant — our destination. This island presented the same 
physical characteristics of surface and soil as those given of 
St. Antonio. We passed between these two islands, and after 
numerous alterations of our course, at length we entered the 
mouth of Porto Grande harbor, and finally dropped anchor 
about half a mile from the shore. The harbor here is a large 
indentation of the coast, nearly semi-circular in form and 
affording a secure anchorage. The mouth of the harbor is 
between four and five miles wide, nearly three-fourths of 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 45 

which is occupied by a high, narrow island, which protects 
it from the northwest winds. About midway from shore to 
shore, just inside of this island, is a large conical shaped 
rock, about one hundred feet high, and called " Bird rock," 
from the number of birds which used to resort there yearly 
to deposit their eggs and rear their young. I think that 
" Target rock " would be an equally appropriate name, as it 
has been used as a target for centuries fey the men-of-war 
visiting the harbor, and many hundred tons of metal have 
been hurled against it. A closer view of the land only con- 
firmed the first impressions of its physical characteristics — 
that it is high, bold, and mountainous. Upon the starboard 
side in entering the harbor is a succession of peaks, whose 
outline bears a striking resemblance to the profile of Wash- 
ington, and is designated as " Washington's Head " on this 
account. Possibly I might not have noticed the resemblance 
had it not been suggested to me ; but then, it did not require 
a great stretch of the imagination to mark the resemblance. 
Experimentally I asked a man standing near me,' if the out- 
lines of these peaks resembled the profile of any one that 
he could think of, and was. almost immediately answered 
" yes, Washington's." I am sure that the man had never 
heard of the resemblance being noticed before. Certainly 
I never saw a country so barren and desolate as that of St. 
Vincent. Not the least sign of vegetation can be seen, not even 
the green moss so commonly seen upon rocks. The whole 
vista is naught but one barren, rocky, brown waste. 

The town of Porto Grande lies on a sandy strip, which 
circles around the inner point of the bight or indentation 
which forms the harbor. It is a small, insignificant looking 
town, and with one or two exceptions the houses are all 
small wooden huts. About midway up the mountain, behind 
the town, is a small, dilapidated, brick fort, mounting two or 
three guns, and over which floats the Portuguese ensign, St. 
Vincent belonging to the Portuguese. The fort is worthless ' 



46 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

as a defense for the harbor or town, but I think that it an- 
swers every purpose ; in fact, I cannot conceive why they 
should need any defense to retain this barren island. 

There are a few European residents at Porto Grande, 
representations of almost every nationality. By far the 
greater portion of the inhabitants however are African 
negroes, all bearing the usual stamp of ignorance, sensuality, 
and the more lowland debasing vices by which man is liable 
to be enslaved. All of the water consumed by the inhabit- 
ants has to be brought here from a distance of about fifteen 
miles, and sometimes much suffering is occasioned by its 
scarcity, when stormy weather prevents their procuring a 
supply. 

There is but little shipping in the harbor at present — some 
five or six small merchantmen, two Portuguese war schooners, 
with a few schooners and small craft comprising the whole. 
I was pleased to see the glorious stars and stripes floating 
from the peak of one of the larger vessels — a sight seen by 
us for the* first time since leaving the States, excepting on 
the Connecticut and our own vessel. It hardly seems pos- 
sible that two or three rebel p?-ivateers could have damaged 
our commerce as they have done. Although a fact to be 
lamented, yet it is a true one that there are few merchant- 
men hold enough to fly the stars and stripes away from the 
immediate protection of our navy ; so that now there is hardly 
one to be seen where before the war there was a score. I 
hope the day is not far distant when the glorious emblem of 
liberty can be borne with safety and with pride to the most 
remote corners of the earth. I have never doubted that that 
day will some time come, and only hope that soon again we 
shall see our country occupying a higher and prouder posi- 
tion than it ever occupied before. 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 47 



LETTER VI. 

U. S. S. Wachusett, Porto Praya, Cape Verde, )_ 

May 26, 1865. j 

My Dear R.: 

May, thus far, has been an interesting and eventful month 
to us ; prominent among whose items of interest are the news 
of the capture of Richmond and the surrender of Lee's army 
— thus virtually ending the war — and the cowardly assassina- 
tion of President Lincoln. We received the news by a French 
mail steamer, May 6th, which brought us English papers con- 
taining the full particulars. After inspection the following 
day the Captain called us aft and read to us the " news from 
home." Over the first portion of the news one and all were 
much rejoiced, and I do not think that there was one but that 
was saddened by the latter. How much there is in those few 
words that were repeated so many times that day, "The war 
is over and President Lincoln is dead ! " Yes, tlie war is 
over and the " unholy, wicked rebellion" is now a thing of the 
past. Such good news yet seems almost incredible, almost 
too good to be true. But our source of information was so 
reliable that there does not remain the least doubt of the 
truthfulness of the report. I wish that I might hear that 
the report of President Lincoln's death was a canard, but 
the news of that as well as the other comes to us too well au- 
thenticated to admit of doubt. The particulars of the assassi- 
nation that we received, as well as those of the plot to assas- 
sinate the most prominent men throughout the country, were 
very fully given to us, but as you are doubtless better in- 
formed of them than I am, I will not repeat them here. We 
all hope that all future plans and attempts of this description 
may be frustrated. 



48 CHINA AND JAPAN, ' 

There were traits in President Lincoln's character, and 
points in his administration, which many would have changed, 
if possible, but methinks that all good, loyal persons will up- 
hold me in this — that he always had the welfare of the coun- 
try at heart in his every action, to the best of his ability doing 
what he thought was right and proper; and, by his wisdom 
and firmness of command he has brought this great and ter- 
rible civil war to a successful termination, as well, and bet- 
ter perhaps, than any other one in the country could have 
done. We could all have desired that he might have lived 
to see the country in the garb of peace again, thriving and 
prosperous as she was before the war. Still, after all, per- 
haps it is for the best that he should have been removed by 
death, for now henceforth he will be remembered with honor 
and respect, if not as a martyr. 

The day following that upon which we heard of his death, 
the flag was kept at half-mast, and half-hour guns fired all day, 
out of respect to the memory of President Lincoln. At 
muster that day, an order from the Captain, in conformity 
with the order from President Johnson, was read, that every 
officer should wear crape on his left arm for a period of six 
mouths. 

While lying at Porto Grande we had our first target- 
practice with the battery. We fired six rounds at that an- 
cient and common target, '- Bird Rock," from which we were 
distant about two miles. The first three rounds fired were 
with percussion shell, about half of which struck the rock, 
exploding the instant they struck it. For the last two rounds, 
solid shot were used, about two-thirds of which hit the rock. 
For the first time, the Captain said that the firing was un- 
commonly good, and warmly commended the captains of the 
guns. But the greater portion of these had filled that posi- 
tion before, so that in reality it was not their first practice. 
Still they will be able to do much better when they become 
accustomed to the guns. 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 49 

I went ashore but once while we were at Porto Grande — 
there being nothing in the place to tempt me to make a second 
visit. The town consists of about forty small, mean-looking, 
wooden buildings, the greater portion of which are situated 
on one street, which runs parallel with the beach and close to 
it. We did not derive much pleasure from our ramble 
about the town, for we not only saw nothing worthy of note, 
but at every step we would sink ancle-deep in th« sand« 
Consequently we did not devote much time to this ramble? 
but spent the day in walking along the beach searching for 
shells, and in playing biUiards in the small, low-roofed build- 
ing near the landing. 

It may seem but a trifling incident to you, but to us, the 
getting of six barrels of sugar was one of the most interest- 
ing incidents of our stay at Porto Grande. For more than 
two weeks previous we had had none in the ship, and had been 
obhged to use molasses for our coffee. Coffee and tobacco are 
necessaries of a sailor's life. Give him those as he wants, and 
almost anything will be borne; but you if interfere with these 
necessaries, either by lessening the amount or by a deteri- 
oration of the article, you are injuring him more than in 
any other way could be done. To the uninitiated it is almost 
like taking so much nauseous medicine, to drink a cup of 
coffee as it is usually made in the service; but, by degrees 
they become accustomed to it, and at last, think of it as one 
of their greatest luxuries. 

We made preparations early in the morning of Tuesday, 
May 9th, for leaving Porto Grande, but it was late in the 
evening before we were under way. The night was clear, 
the moon at its full, the wind favorable stnd strong, the sea 
smooth, and the passage of that night was certainly the most 
pleasant we had thus far had. Our course lay much of the 
time in a channel between numerous small islands, and in 
many places this channel was quite narrow and circuitous. 
With a navigator less skillful than our sailing-master, Mr. 



50 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

Grove, and on a less clear and pleasant night, with the attend- 
ing favorable circumstances, it would have been hardly wise 
to attempt to go through there in the night-time. About 9 A. m. 
the next day, we sighted the extreme northern point of St. 
Jago, our destination, and distant from Porto Grande^about one 
'hundred and fifty miles. Two hours later we came very near 
the northern coast of the island, along which and the eastern 
"side ^e sailed some thirty or forty miles. The land was 
hilly and broken, but not rocky, and looked as if the soil 
were quite fertile. Just now everything is sere and dry, 
owing to the long-continued drought. It was a few minutes 
before sunset when we entered the harbor of Porto Praya 
and dropped anchor about a mile from the town — near the 
old anchorage of th'e Constitution. It was here that she was 
lying during the war of 1812-15 when the English sloops-of- 
war Cyane and Levant appeared ofP the mouth of the harbor. 
As she started to go out in pursuit of them the fort which 
defends the town fired upon her. She for the time paid no 
attention to the firing of the fort, but went out and captured 
both of the English sloops, and then returning, she demolished 
the fortifications. 

The harbor here is an open roadstead, facing the east, and 
w£en the wind blows from that direction, it is said to aiford a 
very poor anchorage. The shipping here is less even than 
at Porto Grande. 

The town is situated on a bluff about one hundred feet 
high, near the innermost point of the harbor. It contains 
some fine buildings, but on the whole presents an ancient, de- 
caying appearance. To the right and front of the town is the 
fort, built of stone and brick, and mounting some fifteen or 
twenty guns. Near the northern outskirts of the town is a 
wide, deep ravine, filled with orange, banana, and cocoanut 
trees, which are now covered with their ripe fruit. The in- 
habitants here, like those at Porto Grande, are for the most 
part negroes, with comparatively few Europeans. The latter 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 51 

are principally Portuguese. St. Jago, with the rest of the 
Cape Verde group, belongs to Portugal, and Porto Praya is 
the capital of the group. 

Have you any idea that it is a very difficult thing for us to 
get money ? By the rules of the Navy we are not supposed to 
receive any of our wages until the end of the cruise. How- 
ever, the advancing of money is left to the discretion of the 
commanding officer to a certain extent ; but he is restricted 
to " special and necessary wants." This rule applies only to 
those ''for'ard of the mast," the officers drawing their full 
pay every month. If one of the crew asks for money it 
almost always results like the following application of an 
aged seaman, which I heard this forenoon : going up to where 
the Captain was standing, and doffing his cap, he said : 

" Captain, will you be so kind as to give an order to the 
Paymaster to let me have a little of my wages ?" 

The Captain replied, " Well, B., how much do you want ?" 

" Five dollars, sir." 

" What do you wish to do with it ?" 

" Well, sir, I am getting to be so old that I can't eat the 
government rations as well as I could thirty years ago, 
when I entered the Navy, and I would like a little money 
with which to get me some ' extras.' " 

" Of course nothing but specie will be of any use to you. 
Now every dollar in specie costs the government more than 
two dollars in currency, and what is given you can only be 
charged dollar for dollar. The government is deeply in debt, 
and every means of economizing must be employed. I am 
really sorry in your case, but I can't let you have any." 

Notwithstanding all this reasoning there are over thirty 
officers in the ship drawing on an average more than one 
hundred dollars each, in specie, every month, and which is 
so invested by the greater portion of them, as to more than 
double their pay. It does seem strange that the government 
should thus pet and pamper a few, who have nearly every- 



52 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

thing that could be desired, and who undergo comparatively 
few hardships or fatigues, while at the same time the small 
sum of five or six dollars of their hard-earned wages is de- 
nied to those who make up the " bone and sinew " of the 
Navy. I do not speak thus from any personal grievances, for 
thus far I have had all my requests for money granted me. 
But where there is one thus fortunate, there are twenty that 
are not so. 

Since we have been lying here we have had " fresh pro- 
visions " for the first time since leaving Boston. The cook 
of each mess receives a piece of meat — varying in size ac- 
cording to the number of men in his mess — which he tallies 
and puts in the " coppers." Some rice, potatoes, cabbage, anc' 
other vegetables, are then sparingly added, and the whole 
boiled together. At dinner time each cook draws his own 
piece of meat, and also a certain portion of the soup. The 
meat, from being boiled so long and in a large quantity of 
water, becomes nearly tasteless, but the soup is excellent. 
The Purser's steward tells me that fresh provisions are far 
less expensive to the government than salt ones are. They 
certainly give better satisfaction to the crew, and I don't see 
any reason why we should not receive them altogether when- 
ever we are in port. But I suppose that it is in this as in 
almost everything else connected with the service, however 
much it may be better for the government and for the men, 
if those to whom such matters are left are put to any trouble 
or inconvenience by any act, that act is seldom performed. 

The day that I was intending to go on shore for a visit to 
the old town of Porto Praya — which is situated about five 
miles back from the sea, the American Consul sent off word 
to the Captain, protesting against any more liberty to the 
men being given him. His reason for so doing was because 
some of our crew, while under the influence of liquor, had 
made some disturbance among the citizens. This is too often 
the case — some poor worthless character taking away the 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 53 

good name and the privileges of a large number by his mis- 
deeds. 

Some time in the early part of May we had news that 
England had declared war against the United States. This 
statement came so well authenticated that we had scarcely a 
doubt of its truth. Knowing this you will not be surprised 
to learn that when an English war-vessel appeared off the 
mouth of the harbor about a week ago, the greatest excite- 
ment prevailed among us ; boats were hoisted up and secured, 
steam got up, the battery loaded, and every preparation made 
for action at a moment's notice. But with no apparent hos- 
tile intent the vessel came in and quietly dropped anchor 
near us. A boat was sent to her, which brought the report 
that it was the English corvette Zephyr fj-om Cape Town, 
South Africa, and " homeward bound." Her latest advices 
from home made no mention of there being any hostility be- 
tween England and the United States, nor of the prospect of 
there being any war. We have since had many a good 
laugh with their crew over our "false alarm." 

Ever since we have been lying here we have had a great 
number of visitors from shore, of almost every age and na- 
tionality, and of both sexes. With one of the fair visitants, 
a young lady of about eighteen, a large number of our offi- 
cers and crew have become quite deeply smitten, and in one 
case, a more serious affair than love is rumored. '•' Breach 
of promise " and " twenty paces " are the common reports, 
but however true the former may be, I have my doubts of 
the latter, on account of the timidity of one of the parties. 
I must confess that she is certainly one of the most lovable 
of the female persuasion that I ever saw — almost perfect in 
form and feature. She has a more speaking eye, and a more 
sweet, winning expression than the generality of womankind 
possess. Now you must not think that I am smitten at last 
by female charms because I am thus enthusiastic in my ac- 
count of this particular fair one. I trust that I can see and 



54 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

appreciate true beauty and loveliness without getting spoony 
(to use a very expressive word) over the possessor. I was 
not a little amused a few evenings ago at the remarks of a 
conceited younger officer who had had the privilege of being 
her escort and guide in showing her the items of interest 
about the ship that afternoon. He said, " I was more than 
half seriously revolving in my mind the pros and cons for 
remaining here and winning her heart and hand. But when 
I came to sum them all up, I found that the cons by far out- 
numbered the pros, so I have concluded that not yet vfould 
I ' give up the ship.' " 

In relating a personal experience, I express that of sev- 
eral shipmates. On board ship there are many leisure mo- 
ments, and these we have largely devoted to study. We 
find that the benefits resulting therefrom are two-fold. On 
the one hand we are increasing our store of useful knowl- 
edge, and on the other we are weaving about us one of the 
most effectual defenses against the many temptations and 
moral dangers of man-of-war life. We are so constituted 
that in order to keep our minds in some degree of moral pu- 
rity we must be surrounded by correspondingly pure influ- 
ences — certainly by enough to balance the bad and impure. 
Woman, whenever she is worthy to be called by that name, 
has an influence to ennoble and purify the mind and thoughts. 
The truth of the assertion may be seen by comparing those 
that have been under this influence with those that have been 
deprived of it, even if they have been surrounded by other 
minds noble and good. Probably in no place in the world 
is this influence more completely lost or needed more than 
on a man-of-war. As I said in the first place, the employ- 
ment and diversion which study gives, may do much to coun- 
terbalance the bad influences. 

Last Friday, May 19th, we made every preparation for 
getting under way, intending to take our departure from 
Porto Praya that day. But when we came to heave up the 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 55 

port anchor, the cable came in with no anchor attached to it, 
the cable having parted and left the anchor at the bottom. 
" So much for intending to sail on Friday," the superstitious 
" old salts " said. All preparations and intentions of depar- 
ture were indefinitely postponed, the cutters called away, and 
searching for the lost anchor commenced. After two days 
spent in dragging, two divers from shore were employed ; 
but, after one day's fruitless labor, they became discouraged, 
and would come no more. Two of our own crew next at- 
tempted to find the anchor by diving, but they gave out be- 
fore the first day was over. Yesterday we tried steaming 
about the harbor with the starboard cable " hove short," so 
that the anchor would just touch the bottom, hoping that it 
would catch hold of the missing one. But like the others 
this plan proved unsuccessful, and the missing anchor is 
missing still. This evening the Captain said that it was use- 
less to continue the seajj^ch longer, and that we would leave 
here to-morrow. We all hope that he may not alter his de- 
termination, for we are heartily tired of Porto Praya. 



56 CHINA AND JAPAN, 



LETTEE VII. 

U. S. S. Wachusett, St. Catherine,) 
June 28, 1865. ij 

My Dear R. : 

Dame Rumor was truthful, for the next day saw us take 
our departure from Porto Praya. We found the sea to be 
very rough, and many of us were just a little sea sick. But 
I remember one that was not sick in the least — the steerage 
cook, a big, burly negro, " black as the ace of spades," and 
who rejoices in the sohnquet of " Jib Bogue." His hud 
singing, and side-splitting " haw, haw " could be heard as 
usual while cooking the dinner, doinff much to enliven the 
spirits of all. He is decidedly the happiest man in the ship. 

Friday, June 2d, 1865, will long be remembered by many 
of us, for that was the day on which we were presented to 
Neptune the Monarch of the Deep. For this ceremony, 
preparations had been made before leaving Boston, but so 
quietly had all been conducted, that every one except those 
in the secret were taken by surprise. This ceremony is not 
so common as it was formerly, but, whenever the assent of 
the commanding officer can be obtained, the " old salts " sel- 
dom miss the opportunity of enjoying the sports of the occa- 
sion. The Captain, with characteristic desire of affording 
pleasure and amusement at all proper times, assented to the 
request of the leaders, but imposing reasonable restrictions 
upon what should be done. 

At 4 p. M., all were startled by the hail off our starboard 
bow, " Ship Ahoy !" 

The officer of the deck (who was in the secret) answered, 
"Aye, aye, sir." 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 57 

« What ship is that ?" 

" The United States Steamer Wachusett." 

" Where are you from, and where are you bound." 

" From the United States, bound to China." 

" I am Neptune, the Monarch of the Deep ; bring the ship 
to so that I can come on board." 

The orders of his Majesty were obeyed, and he came on 
board — through the hawse-pipe, I suppose ; for after a few 
minutes' delay, the curtain (which had been hung up at the 
break of the forecastle ever since noon) was removed, and 
there issued forth from the forecastle his Majesty, Neptune 
He was seated on his chariot of state (the howitzer carriage 
fitted up for the occasion) with that ancient matron, Mrs. 
Neptune, by his side, drawn by ten men, preceded by a band 
of music, and accompanied by all his attending train. On 
either hand were his two barbers, the one bearing a huge tin 
razor full of notches and rust, and the other a huge swab. 
Around him were about thirty faithful retainers armed with 
swords. They marched down the port gangway — the band 
playing "Lo ! the conquering hero comes" — as far as the ward- 
room hatch, then crossed over to the other side of the deck, 
and came to a halt by the starboard gangway. Formal per- 
mission having been granted to his Majesty by the Captain 
to have all the novices among the crew presented to him, 
preparations were made for the ceremony. A studding-sail 
was got up, its corners raised and the sail kept filled with 
water by the steam pumps. Then, a platform was erected 
between this and the throne. 

Everything being in readiness. His Majesty sent his re- 
tainers to bring to him all the novices (that is those that 
had never crossed the Line) and then the ceremony be- 
gan. The novice was seated on the platform, blindfolded, 
and then well lathered over with the swab, which had been 
dipped in a preparation of tar and grease. The knight of 
the razor then performed his duty, utterly regardless of the 
4 



58 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

cries and groans of his victims ; and, whenever they would 
open their mouths to complain, they were treated to a cup of 
salt water. This part of the ceremony finished, the victim is 
requested to rise a moment, the seat removed, and then when 
told to sit down again, barkward he tumbles into the vat of 
water and the hose is turned upon him. Sore, half sick, half 
blinded, and half drowned, after numerous fruitless attempts 
he at length emerges from the vat, escapes from his torment- 
ors, and can console himself by looking upon the other vic- 
tims undergoing the same treatment. The " shaving " con- 
tinued for upwards of two hours, until all were initiated 
excepting the marines who resisted, and the officers who paid 
the forfeit with wine. Thanks were then given by his 
Majesty to. the Captain, for his courtesy and kindness; 
and after wishing the Wachusett a pleasant cruise and the 
safe return of all to their homes and friends, he departed as 
he came. The whole affair passed off pleasantly and was 
much enjoyed by all. The grotesque costumes, the cries, 
groans, and appearance of the victims occasioned many a 
side-splitting peal of laughter, and " Neptune's visit" will 
long be remembered by all. 

Up to this time our course had been southwesterly, the 
wind westerly, and with all sail set we had been sailing 
along at the average rate of five or six knots per hour. But 
that day the wind left us and for three days we lay on the 
equator, becalmed, under the hot, scorching rays of the sun. 
Hardly anything in a sailor's life is more unpleasant than to 
be becalmed, the sails flapping idly against the masts, and the 
vessel not moving a single knot during an entire day. One 
and all seemed disposed to echo the boatswain's prayer "Blow^ 
Good Devil, blow, and take the lower studding-sail." 

June 5th we got up steam, and with awnings spread, we 
were more comfortable and in better spirits. In the evening 
a strong breeze sprung up, so that we stopped steaming and 
proceeded under full sail again. For a week our course was 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 59 

variable, sailing " by the wind," which took us well to the 
westward. Our destination when we left Porto Praya was 
said to be Cape Town. Everything, however, seemed to in- 
dicate that Rio Janeiro was to be our next port ; and thither 
we would have thought that we were destined, had we not 
had positive orders from the government, that under no con- 
sideration whatever, should we call at any Brazilian port. 
This order was given on account of the existing hostile feel- 
ing of the Brazilian government towards the Wachusett 
which vessel seized the rebel steamer Florida in the harbor 
of Bahia about a year ago. 

Going " by the wind " in the variable, or " horse latitudes,'' 
is far from being pleasant. Occasionally we would steam for 
a few hours, then proceed under sail alone, or for days lie 
becalmed. At last we received a steady breeze, and although 
it was not as favorable as could have been desired, obliging 
us to " tack ship" frequently, we all hailed it as a godsend, 
so much did its coolness refresh and enliven us. 

Soon after crossing the Line there were a great many ru- 
mors afloat regarding the amount of provisions in the ship — 
some asserting that there was barely a sufficiency to last a 
week. Soon all were startled by another rumor to the effect 
that we were to be placed on half-rations ; this caused the most 
intense excitement. First the sugar gave out and we were 
obliged to substitute molasses again for our coffee and tea. A 
day or two later, and we not only had no sugar for our tea^ 
but had no tea for the sugar. Tuesday, June 13th, the cli- 
max was reached when the Captain gave orders that the crew 
should be placed on " half rations." The greatest excitement 
then prevailed, and, after numerous consultations, the crew 
deputed the petty officers to represent them at the " mast '' 
and endeavor to get the order countermanded. An increase 
from one-half to two-thirds rations produced a momentary 
lull. It was, however, only momentary, and at noon nearly 
every man in the ship, taking his diminished ration in his 



60 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

pan, went to the " mast" and asked to see the Captain. He 
came, and, after listening to their complaints, he acceded ta 
their request for full rations, but to their request that the 
ship might be put into some port nearest us, and a fresh sup- 
ply of provisions obtained, he said that he had received posi- 
tive orders to call at no Brazilian port, and there was no 
other nearer than Cape Town. So we had full rations again, 
hut full only in name, not having any sugar, but little molas- 
ses, and half rations of bread, pork, and beans. The officers' 
messes were but little better provided for than those of the 
men ; and, for a barrel of flour which our mess had, they 
offered more than five times its original cost. When one is 
hungry, money is no equivalent for food, so the flour was not 
sold. The details of the sufferings from hunger during the 
time that we were on half rations would be but a repetition 
of what too many have endured during the war, and with 
which you are doubtless well acquainted. June 16th we 
boarded several vessels, hoping to be able to procure supplies 
from them. We were unsuccessful in every case, their car- 
goes being railroad iron. 

Monday, June 19th, "Land Ho!" shouted out from the 
mast head thrilled all with the deepest delight, for we 
thought that the Captain had finally decided to enter 
some Brazilian port. But this pleasure was short lived, 
for about noon we came to anchor a little to the eastward 
of the entrance to the harbor of Rio Janeiro. Our anchor- 
age was a little westward of a lofty, naked cone, called 
*' False Sugar Loaf," in contradistinction to one very similar, 
about eight miles to the westward of it, which marks the 
entrance to the harbor of Rio. We lay within two or three 
miles of the shore, surrounded by scenery of great splendor 
and beauty. At least, so it seemed to us ; but, perhaps our 
discoveries of beauties were owinsf in a measure to the lonor 
time that it had been since we had seen the land. Nothing, 
I find, so much enhances the beauty and worth of anything, 
or calls forth such pleasure from its sight or possession, as 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 61 

the deprivation of it for a time when ardently longed for. 
But to return to the scenery near our anchorage. Before us, 
at the distance of a few miles, was the wild range of moun- 
tains immediately south of the channel into Rio, the most 
striking feature of which is known to sailors by the name of 
" Hood's Nose," from a supposed strong resemblance to that 
appendage of his lordship's face. " Indeed," it has been re- 
marked, " the whole range presents the outline of a colossal 
figure in as near conformation to the human shape, as the 
eflfigies on many tombs of the fifteenth and sixteenth centu- 
ries — lying on its back, with its head towards the sea." 

On our right, and very near, was a beautiful beach of 
snowy whiteness, stretching in a long curve to the east, be- 
yond the beach stretched a narrow interval of low land, 
covered with grass, backed by abrupt hills and mountains, of 
various and beautiful outline ; the center of the sweep rising 
much above the rest, and forming a kind of crown to all 
around ; the whole beautifully wooded and still in the luxu- 
riance of nature. 

Grand was the view in front, with a sail or two in the 
foreground ; on our right stretched the white beach, green 
hills, and mountains before described ; while behind, and on 
our left, in the east, rolled the ocean ; all forming such a 
scene as will for a long time remain stamped upon my mem- 
ory with the most pleasing remembrances. 

But our object in stopping off the mouth of the harbor, 
was not to admire the beautiful scenery ; it was to endeavor to 
procure provisions, from vessels bound either in or out of Rio, 
or to send in word and have the provisions brought out to us. 
We boarded three vessels, but without procuring what we 
wished — all of thenj being loaded vrith coal. From one of 
these vessels, the caterer of the ward-room mess bought a 
barrel of flour, or what he supposed to be flour, for which he 
gave thirty dollars in gold, but having brought it on board 



62 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

and opened it, the flour proved to be oatmeal. Meantime the 
vessel had entered the harbor and was out of sight. 

I had heard much said about " the rolling grounds " at the 
mouth of Rio harbor, and my experience in this instance 
told me that the report had not exaggerated. Certainly I 
never saw a vessel roll and pitch about more wildly in a 
storm. Its effects were plainly marked in the great number 
that were made sea-sick. 

Whatever may have been the intentions of the Captain, 
the evening of that same day saw us leave our anchorage? 
and start for Montevideo. We were all much disappointed 
in not going into Rio, and there was scarcely one in the whole 
crew, that would not have been willing to have fought our 
way in, if necessary. 

Our course for Montevideo was southerly, and for the first 
three or four days, we sailed along finely with a favorable but 
very light breeze. On the evening of Saturday, June 24th, 
everything betokened the approach of a storm, and the 
prospect of that evening was verified in the " pampero," or 
hurricane that followed. Early Sunday morning it began to 
rain, pouring in torrents, and accompanied by occasional 
gusts of wind. After each lull in the wind, it would com- 
mence to blow again with increased fury. Just after dark 
that evening, the wind hauled to about two points abaft the 
beam, and we then close-reefed the top-sails, and took in all 
the remaining ones except the fore-topmast stay-sail, and the 
main top-sail. When I went on deck at midnight to take my 
watch, I found that the barometer was falling rapidly, and 
the storm steadily increasing, which it continued to do, from 
that time until 3 a.m. The wind was then blowing a regular 
hurricane and " coming from all pointsi of the compass." 
After a few minutes' lull, the storm with its gathered strength 
burst upon us, sweeping everything before it. First the 
main sheets parted, and in a few minutes the sail was fairly 
torn into ribbons. Next the fore-top-sail gaff was carried 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 63 

away, and before the sail could be brailed up, it had several 
large holes torn in it, and a number were severely injured by 
the sheets as they flapped about. While they were at work 
in securing it, a noise like the booming of a cannon was 
heard, and upon inquiry, I learned that the fore-topmast stay- 
sail had burst in half a dozen places. The sail was soon 
hauled down and secured. Attention was next paid to furl- • 
ing the main-top-sail which was done without much difficul- 
ty, during a few minutes' lulh But we paid dear enough 
for that lull, for the men had barely laid in from the yard 
when the storm again burst upon us, with greater fury than 
ever. The fore top-sail was the only one now left set, and 
every moment we expected to see that carried away. Vol- 
unteers were called for to go up and furl it. Five or six were 
found willing, but the rest hung back. It seemed almost a 
fool-hardy undertaking, for the topmast had been sprung 
early in the evening, and it swayed to and fro with a heavy 
thump, at every roll of the ship. Beside all this the cold 
was so intense as to benumb one and make it extremely dif- 
ficult to hold on. But the sail was clewed up as well as pos- 
sible, and then the volunteers, now increased to fourteen, 
went aloft to furl it. As there was now no sail on to steady 
her, the ship rolled and pitched about worse than ever. • The 
mast went from side to side with a thump, that could be dis- 
tinctly heard on deck, above the roar of the gale ; the sail 
was wet and heavy ; the men soon benumbed with the cold, 
and a full hour elapsed before the sail was furled. And an 
hour of the most intense anxiety it was to us all ; for every 
moment we expected to see the mast carried away, or some 
one lose his grasp and go overboard, not daring to hope that 
we should see them all safe on deck again. And as they 
came down and unharmed stood by our side once more, there 
was a deep breath of relief drawn, and a silent clasping of 
hands which spoke more eloquently than words could have 
done. 



64 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

The officer that had the deck during the mid watch, proved 
himself to be decidedly incapable of managing a ship during 
a storm, getting nervous and excited, giving wrong orders, 
and even losing entire command of himself. For more than 
two hours we lay in the trough of the sea, the seas breaking 
over the sides, and splintering four inch oaken planks as if 
they had been so much paper. Some of the guns got adrift 
and went from one side to the other with a thump that fairly 
made the ship tremble, and for a time the greatest imaginable 
confusion prevailed. About 2 a.m. Mr. Philip came on deck, 
all hands were called, and the hatches battened down fore 
and aft. 

It was about 4 a.m. whenthe fore-top-sail was furled, and 
the storm staysails and spanker " got up " and set. Mean- 
while the Captain had sent forward to his cook and had a 
couple of kettles of good coffee made, and so when the work 
was done we each had a pint of coffee. I don't think that 
anything ever tasted better than that coffee did then. 

When I went down on the berth deck, what a sight met 
my gaze ! mess chests, kettles, dishes, provisions, etc. were, 
piled up in heaps, or scattered about the deck in glorious con- 
fusion. But one and all were too tired to put things to rights 
and threw themselves down wherever they could find a place 
and slept until 8 a.m. In fact, some slept the greater portion 
of the day, hammocks not being piped up at all. 

Going on deck at 8 a.m. I found that we were in the vor- 
tex of the hurricane ; that all around us not a breath of wind 
was stirring, and everything was as still as death, while in 
the distance on every side could be seen the dark raging hur- 
ricane, and the murmur of its fury be heard. The spectacle 
could not fail to impress one with feelings of sublimity and 
awe ; and that imprint I shall vividly remember to my dy- 
ing day. I was not the only one who for a time little ex- 
pected to see land or friends again. 

Despairing of being able to reach Montevideo, the Cap- 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. S5 

tain determined to put the ship about, and steam oflP out of 
the hurricane. Accordingly we got up a full head of steam 
and with everything prepared as well as possible we started. 
We were about two hours in getting out, and I hope never to 
endure another moment of suspense such as was crowded 
into every minute of those two hours. Every instant it 
seemed as if the next would be our last, and I verily believe 
that had the Wachusett been a less staunchly built vessel, or 
been less skillfully handled, we should never have seen port 
again. Through some mismanagement of the man at the 
helm, she pooped a sea, which made her tremble like a leaf 
from stern to stern, and for a moment it seemed as if the 
flood of water on her deck would break her. She could not 
have stood another such sea. However, with the exceptions 
of some holes torn in the storm sails, which were up, and a 
portion of the hammock nettings carried away, we experi- 
enced no injury while standing out of the hurricane. 

The sailors, many of whom have been following the sea 
for the last twenty years, all agree that they never experi- 
enced a worse gale than this " pampero " was. Yesterday 
we proceeded farther to the northward. The storm abated 
and the sea grew less rough, but still the waves ran very high, 
and we rolled and pitched about so much as to make all of 
us a little sea sick. 

The weather this morning still continued cloudy, cold, and 
unpleasant, but the sea was quite smooth in comparison with 
that of yesterday. 

About 10 A.M. we heard the welcome, joyous words, " land 
ho !" shouted out from the mast-head. This we soon ascer- 
tained to be the long, narrow island of St. Catherine, which 
lies off the coast of Brazil, about four hundred miles to the 
southward of Rio Janeiro. About noon we arrived off the 
mouth of the harbor. For about a mile the entrance is very 
narrow, reminding one very much of a river. The land on 
either hand is very uneven, but with no considerable emi- 
4* 



66 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

nences. The scenery is exceedingly wild and picturesque, 
no signs of civilization to be seen, and the whole surface as 
far as the eye could reach, covered with groves of orange 
trees, and a dense and luxuriant growth of vegetation. 
Emerging from this narrow entrance, we saw a broad and 
beautiful bay before us, stretching away almost as far as the 
eye could reach, the waters of which were as smooth as a 
mill pond. 

We steamed about five miles up this bay, and then came 
to anchor about one mile from the shore, opposite a small 
village, whose name, or whether it has any, I as yet have 
been unable to learn. 

The town of St. Catharine lies about six miles farther up, 
around a bend of the bay, and not in sight from where we 
are lying. We draw too much water to go up any farther, a 
fact which is regretted by all. 

Scarcely any signs of civilization are to be seen ; here and 
there an occasional clearing, but the surface for the most part 
covered with forests. I will give you some further descrip- 
tion of the place, as soon as I shall learn about it. 

How long we are to remain here I am unable to conjecture, 
but suppose we shall stop long enough to take in stores, if 
they can be procured here. I should not be sorry if none 
were to be had, for then I think we should be obliged to go 
to Rio Janeiro, and I am very anxious to see that place. 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 67 



LETTER VII 

[USET 

July 10, 1865. 



U. S. S. Wachusett, Rio Janeiro, ) 



My Dear R. : 

For once my wish has been granted. Provisions were not 
to be obtained at St. Catherine, and we were compelled to 
come to Rio Janeiro for them. That same afternoon that we 
dropped anchor at St. Catherine, Mr. Philip and the Pay- 
master went up to the town to see about getting coal and 
provisions. The next morning a lighter came down, bring- 
ing some fresh provisions and some hard bread, but with the 
news that coal and salt provisions were not to be obtained. 
The hard bread that was brought fully merited its name, for, 
in every sense of the word, it was decidedly the hardest that 
I ever saw. In appearance it resembles a loaf of brown 
bread, baked in a quart basin, and which had raised down 
instead of up, so that it was about an inch in thickness. I 
tried some of it for breakfast the next day. It was some- 
what harder than flint, and to eat it without soaking was a 
matter of impossibility. On account of so many of them 
being broken, the gunner entered a protest against our using 
the battle-axes to break the biscuits up into mouthfuls, and 
we had to resort to the heels of our brogans. Fortunately 
I was not as hungry as some others, so that I waited until 
mine could soak, and did not insanely attempt to eat it with- 
out, as they did, breaking their teeth, getting choked, &c. 
Beside all that has been said, it is really affecting to think 
that at every mouthful one is destroying the homes of thou- 
sands — of weevil, bugs, &c., — and with the homes, the in- 
mates. 



68 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

Saturday morning the crew holystoned the decks, ladders, 
and gratings, scrubbed the paint work, and shifted into white 
clothes, so that we were fully prepared, after the most ap- 
proved man-of-war fashion, to take in the two lighter loads 
of coal which came down that morning. Mr. Philip and the 
Paymaster returned that morning and brought with them 
some late American papers. The most interesting news was 
that of the capture of JeiF. Davis in female clothing, while 
attempting to escape across the border into Mexico ; also, 
that Booth, the assassin of President Lincoln, had been 
killed. Mr. Philip also brought us word that two American 
men-of-war were lying at Rio. 

While lying at St. Catherine, bumboats used to come along 
side bringing the largest and most luscious oranges that I 
ever tasted. These were sold very cheap, four or five for a 
cent. Sunday afternoon, a number of us went to Mr. Philip 
and asked permission to take one of the cutters and go ashore 
after a load of oranges. This request was granted after a 
moment's hesitation, and about fifteen of us, armed with 
baskets and bags, set out upon our " oranging expedition." 
The place chosen was the hill to the right and rear of the 
village before mentioned. The slope was covered with a 
forest of orange-trees, whose ripe fruit fairly made the hill 
look yellow in the distance. We found a good place for 
landing, and, leaving bags and baskets under the charge of 
the boat-keeper, set out for a ramble. As we drew near the 
hill, we paused a moment to feast our eyes upon the trees 
fairly groaning under their load of ripe, yellow fruit, while 
the ground was covered with that which had fallen off. 

There were thousands and thousands of bushels of the 
largest and finest oranges that I ever saw, all to be had for 
the taking of them. As I stood there feasting my eyes, (and 
mouth, too,) upon them, I wished that I could have had all 
my friends there to enjoy the feast with me. In sweetness 
and delicacy of flavor, those oranges by far surpassed any 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 69 

that I ever before tasted. In fact, it is impossible to procure 
as good ones at home ; for, in order that they may be pre- 
served until they can be carried there, they must be picked 
when green. Oranges will keep but a very short time after 
they are fully ripe, and that rich, delicious flavor is not to be 
had unless they are allowed to mature on the tree. Beside 
the ripe oranges, there were blossoms, and the green fruit in 
nearly every stage of its growth, on the same tree. After 
eating our fill and rambling about for two or three hours, we 
went down to the boat, procured and filled our bags and 
baskets with the largest and ripest fruit, and, with our boat 
deeply laden, returned to the ship. There arriving, the or- 
anges were divided out to the messes, and so one and all re- 
joiced over our " oranging expedition." 

Monday we took in about fifty tons of coal from an Eng- 
lish bark, which was lying near us. In the evening the 
Captain returned from St. Catherine, whither he had gone 
the Saturday previous, and gave orders to have everything 
in readiness to start for Rio Janeiro the next morning. 

Tuesday, July 4th, was a "glorious day," as far as the 
weather was concerned, so soft and balmy the air, not a cloud 
to be seen, and the temperature just right for comfort. We 
" dressed ship" at sunrise in honor of the day, as did also the 
three Brazilian corvettes, then lying at anchor in the harbor. 
This was done by hoisting an American ensign at the fore, 
main, and mizzenmast-heads and peak, and the jack on the 
jack-staflf out on the bowsprit. One nation "dresses ship" 
for another by hoisting that nation's ensign at the foremast- 
head, and their own ensigns at the other mentioned places. 
In the morning, after the work was finished, the crew shifted 
into white frocks and cap-covers ; permission was granted 
them to smoke all day, and no unnecessary work set them to 
do — a man-of-war-man's holiday. I wish that we had been 
into some port where we could have procured the materials 
to celebrate the day in a more appropriate manner. 



70 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

From the senior Brazilian naval officer at St. Catherine, 
Captain Townsend had the assurance that the Florida affair 
had been satisfactorily settled, and that now we could go into 
any Brazilian port we wished without fear of being molested. 
At 11 A. M. we were under way; at 2 p. m. we had cleared 
the mouth of the harbor and were standing northwardly with 
all sail set, and with a good fair wind we were averaging 
nine knots per hour. The following two days were occupied 
by the crew in cleaning and painting the ship, painting boats, 
and making everything as neat and trim as possible, in order 
to make a fine dehut at Rio. 

For some time I had been watching the boatswain's mate, 
of whom some mention has been made, and the surgeon's 
steward, as they were engaged in playing chess, and en- 
deavoring, in vain, to get some insight into the game. One 
morning, on our passage from St. Catherine to Rio, A. came 
to me and said that if I had any leisure time, and felt so dis- 
posed, he would endeavor to initiate me into the mysteries 
of chess. Of course I had time, and wished to learn ; so 
the apparatus was procured and the initiating commenced. 
That day and the following were taken up by this teaching, 
and at the end, I had become quite skillful at the game. To 
me it is quite fascinating, and I promise myself much pleas- 
ure and profit from its acquisition, as it will serve to while 
away some of the long and tedious hours of the cruise. 
This feeling is common to all. 

Thursday evening, July 6th, we sighted land, which we 
knew to be some islands off the mouth of the Bay of Rio 
Janeiro, so we " lay to " the greater portion of that night, as 
we were afraid that we might run aground should we attempt 
to proceed in the night time. The crew were quite merry 
that night over the prospect of going into Rio the next day, 
and singing and dancing were kept up until a very late hour. 

Going on deck the next morning, I found that the promise 
of the previous evening of our having a fine day to go into 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 71 

Rio had not been verified, for the rain was pouring in tor- 
rents. As soon as it was daylight we started on our way 
again for Rio, then about twenty -four miles- distant, and at 
S.S-O A. M. we began to "open" the bay. Two or three 
pretty inlets, with rocky bases, enveloped by thick shrubbery 
and brush-wood, lie at the entrance of the channel. 

Among the first points of interest which demanded notice 
and admiration, were the magnificent cone of the Sugar-Loaf, 
on our left, and the fortress of Santa-Cruz, with its floating 
banner, on a gently swelling hill on our right. From these 
points, on either side, the shores of the bay, lined at the 
water's edge with the cottages and hamlets of the fishermen, 
sweep widely around ; while behind, hills, in the richest cul- 
tivation, sprinkled with farm-houses and villas, and crowned 
with churches and monasteries, all in purest white, rise 
abruptly on every side, till two or three miles inland, they 
terminate in ranges of mountains of the boldest and most 
varied beauty. 

At the distance of about three miles from the entrance, a 
small castellated island rises from the water, over which a 
tower, here and there, with a forest of shipping adjoining, 
designated the location of the city. A little to the right, a 
succession of low, green islets, studding the smooth waters 
of the bay, showed the direction in which it penetrates far 
into the interior, till, at a distance of forty or fifty miles, the 
lofty and fantastic peaks of the Organ mountains closed the 
view. 

The Sugar-Loaf is a strikingly unique and imposing ob- 
ject, a gigantic rock, a thousand feet high, singularly of the 
form which its name indicates, and inclining slightly over its 
base southward. It is entirely naked, excispting a little tuft- 
ing of moss and bushes in some of the crevices indenting its 
sides, and on its top. Apparently, it is utterly inaccessible 
on every side ; but it is said that a British officer succeeded 
in reaching the top and planting there the flag of his nation. 



72 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

The story adds, however, that he paid for his venturesome 
deed with his life ; whether perishing in the descent, or by 
the dagger of an assassin, is not known ; but the latter is 
thought most probable. 

A party of Austrian officers accomplished a similar feat ; 
and an American, also, is said to have left the stars and 
stripes waving from its summit — a report as well founded, 
probably, as either of the former ; for our countrymen, in 
whatever part of the world they are found, are not, to say 
the least, behind any that they meet, when boldness and in- 
trepidity are in requisition. 

The distance from the Sugar-Loaf to the city, in a direct 
line, is about five miles ; but the shores on either side sweep 
from the channel into several bays, making the route by them 
much more circuitous. Botafogo, the largest and deepest of 
these inlets, first meets the eye. The entrance to it is very 
narrow^, and almost entirely shut out from the sight. Encir- 
cled by wild and lofty mountains, it exhibits, at almost every 
point of view, the characteristic features of a fine lake. In 
the momentary glance as we passed, with the vapors of the 
morning still hanging upon the mountains, but for a cottage 
here and there, with the boat of a fisherman along the shore, 
it might have been thought still a haunt only for the numer- 
ous sea-fowl seen hovering around its waters, or soaring 
among the inaccessible crags above. 

Next to Botafogo, and forming a kind of outer bay to it, 
comes the widely-curving Praya de Flamingo, or " Beach of 
the Flamingoes," lined with a range of fine houses. Imme- 
diately adjoining is the Gloria Hill, a place of great beauty, 
and forming one of the most conspicuous points in the pano- 
rama of the whole bay. Upon its brow stands the first pub- 
lic building attracting particular notice in approaching the 
anchorage — the church " Nossa Seiiora de Gloria," of our 
lady of glory. The building is a small octagon, with lofty 
towers of neat and well-proportioned architecture; the whole 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 73 

beautifully white, ornamented with pilasters, cornices, and 
casemates of brown freestone. It is delightfully located and 
overhung with trees and shrubbery of splendid growth. 

Beyond the Gloria is another indentation, over which is 
seen a long stone causeway, lined with houses on the inner 
side, and above and beyond, a section of a lofty and massive 
aqueduct, running from the mountains to the city. Then 
comes another hill, surmounted by a monastery — a gloomy 
pile, and in poor repair — immediately beneath which, on a 
low piece of level ground, lies the greater portion of the 
city, with its numerous steeples and towers, the most con- 
spicuous being those of the imperial chapel and cathedral. 

The imperial residence fronts the water, and, with the pub- 
lic square adjoining, is in full view from the anchorage ; 
while the episcopal palace stands on a hill, some two hund- 
red feet high, in the center of the city. This is a fine 
building, and finely located, but of heavy and monkish ar- 
chitecture. Near it,- on the west, is another hill and convent ; 
and, closely adjoining the imperial navy-yard, from which a 
small rocky and fortified island runs into the harbor, and 
completes the outline of the sketch on this side of the bay. 

With these leading objects, surrounded by masses of build- 
ing for a foreground, backed by verdant hills in high cultiva- 
tion, having cottages and villas embowered in bloom and 
beauty, scattered over them, — the whole terminated by a 
splendid range of mountains, with the shaft of the Corcovado, 
two thousand feet in height, rising in the center like a pin- 
nacle against the sky, — you will have some conception of 
the magnificence of the scene. 

At the city, the bay is about three miles wide. The op- 
posite shore, on the north, is called Praya Grande. It is 
less wild and lofty in its general features, but equally rich in 
the varied beauty of hill and dell, wood and lawn — of plan- 
tation in all the luxuriance of artificial improvement, and 



74 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

mountain forest, standing, as for ages, in perennial verdure, 
undisturbed by the inroads of civilization. 

There may be scenery in the world that equals this, but 
there can scarce be any that surpasses it. As a whole, it is 
sublime ; while every distinct section would, in itself, make 
a picture. Whether viewed in mass or detail, it exceeds in 
beauty and variety everything that I have as yet seen. 

Now to generalize a little. Rio Janeiro, the capital of the 
Brazihan empire, ranks as the largest and most flourishing 
city of South America. It lies on the western side of the 
bay, which is some seventy or eighty miles in circumference, 
forming one of the most spacious and secure receptacles for 
shipping in the world. In comparison with all others, trav- 
elers have pronounced the bay of Eio Janeiro to surpass 
them all in beauty. It is studded with upwards of one hun- 
dred islands ; the ships of all nations are constantly seen 
passing in and out of its channels, and innumerable small 
boats are ever flitting about. Some thirty-five or forty men- 
of-war, and several hundred merchant vessels, representing 
almost every nationality, are now in the harbor. 

The town is tolerably well built, much in the European 
style, the houses being three or four stories high, though the 
streets are quite narrow. The place where we anchored was 
nearly opposite the Emperor's chapel, about a mile from 
shore. The French, English, and Portuguese flag-ships 
saluted us as we came in, their bands playing '' Hail Colum- 
bia." 

Saturday morning, July 8th, we got under way at an early 
hour, steamed across the bay to the coal-wharf, and for once, 
regardless of man-of-war custom, we "coaled ship" before 
cleaning up. Commenced work at 9 a. m. and finished at 4 
p. M., having taken in about two hundred tons. Two large 
American clippers were lying alongside the coal-wharf, dis- 
charging coal. I made the acquaintance of the second mate 
of one of them, who took me on board, shewed me about the 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 75 

ship, introduced me to his wife — a very pleasant and quite 
pretty young woman of about twenty-five — kept me to din- 
ner, and when I was coming away gave me an armful of 
books and papers, making my visit an exceedingly pleasant 
and profitable one. At 4.30 p. m. we got under way again, 
and steamed back to our old anchorage, washing down and 
cleaning the ship while on our way there. That same even- 
ing we saluted the Brazilian flag with twenty -one guns, 
thus forever healing the breach made by the Wachusett in 
taking the Florida out of Bahia, upwards of a year ago. 

Sunday was stormy, or we doubtless would have been 
thronged with visitors ; as it was, but few came. This morn - 
ing it cleared off, and it has been a lovely day. The crew 
have been hard at work all day in painting, scraping spars, 
setting up rigging, tarring down, and polishing up generally. 
They have sufficient employment of this description to keep 
them busy all this week. 

I have not the least idea how long we shall remain here, 
but everything now betokens a long stay. I hope that this 
may be ; for I hardly think that we shall find another place 
where there is so much to excite and interest, or that we 
shall like as well. 



76 CHINA AND JAPAN, 



LETTER VIII. 

Wachusett, 
September 19, 1865. 



U. S. S. Wachusett, Rio Janeiro, ) 



Mt Dear R. : 

The prospect of a long stay in Rio has been verified, and 
the anticipated pleasure has been more than realized by 
nearly all. Yes, our stay in Rio has been a very interesting 
and exciting, one. 

Tuesday, July 11th, all the men-of-war in the harbor 
" dressed ship," " manned yards," and fired a salute of twenty- 
one guns, for the Emperor of Brazil who passed down the 
harbor on a Portuguese corvette. He was starting for Para" 
guay to visit his forces there, now engaged in war with the 
Paraguayans. It was a splendid sight, thus to see upwards 
of fifty men-of-war all dressed out, with their yards manned? 
and to hear the salutes thundered forth. 

Thursday we " dressed ship," with the Brazilian flag at 
the main, and fired a salute of twenty-one guns in honor of 
the birth of a princess. Upon more than one-half of the 
days that we have been lying in this harbor we have " dressed 
ship," and fired salutes for some nation's holidays. Every 
nation, except the United States, has had one or more. In 
one week the Brazilians and the Portuguese had each two 
holidays, and it does seem as if these two powers had as 
many as all others here represented. The most of us, how- 
ever, would not object to having every day a holiday ; for 
they ever bring some excitement, thus enlivening a long stay 

For a long time the Wachusett was the only representa-- 
tive of the United States in the harbor. During the early 
part of August, the Mohongo came into port, and remained 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 77 

long enough to go into the dry-dock and have her bottom 
cleaned. She then continued on her way around the Horn 
to join the North Pacific squadron. About two weeks later 
the Susquehana, flag-ship of the South Atlantic squadron and 
bearing the flag of Rear Admiral Gordon, arrived at Rio 
Janeiro. All were rejoiced at her presence ; for, since her 
arrival, it has seemed as if we had held a higher position 
with the other nations here represented, all of which have 
one or more large vessels. Then, too, among the salutes fired 
at almost every hour of the day, the stars and stripes have 
sometimes been seen at the foremast-head. 

Since that time the squadron has received further addition 
in the shape of two or three gunboats, so that the officers 
and crews have had much pleasure in their intercourse with 
each other and in " ship visiting." It is customary when 
two or more vessels of the same nationality are lying in port 
together, to allow a number of the crews to visit each other 
Sunday afternoons. All avail themselves of this privilege, 
those of the same department or rank visiting each other as 
old friends, although they may be from different States, and 
have never met before. 

For a long time after our arrival, the Wachusett was daily 
thronged with visitors, all of them anxious to see the vessel 
that seized the Florida. Being made the " Lion of the har- 
bor " was somewhat different treatment from what we ex- 
pected; but it really seemed as if they couldn't see us enough 
or show us enough respect and courtesy. I am sure that we 
are all better satisfied that it was so than that they should have 
harbored enmity for what is now past. Personally, however, I 
cannot say that I greatly admire this lionizing, for, nearly 
every day we are paraded in full uniform, on the quarter- 
deck to receive some distinguished visitor. 

Soon after we came into port, the crew received their first 
allowance of money, and had "general liberty" given. As 
there was not a sufficient amount of silver in the ship, a large 



78 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

number of the crew received their allowance of five dollars 
in ten milrea bills — a milrea being equal in value to a silver 
half dollar. In the afternoon when the dingy was sent on 
shore, many of those that had received bills sent them ashore 
by the coxswain to have them changed into specie. When 
the dingey returned late in the evening, the coxswain was mis- 
sing. The boat's crew said that he left them as soon as the 
boat touched the shore and they had not seen him since then, 
nor has any subsequent search revealed anything regarding 
his whereabouts. He had about two hundred dollars, and 
has doubtless returned to the States. 

The following morning our watch went ashore on " general 
liberty." When the boat returned the next day with the 
liberty men, three of the marines were absent. Towards 
evening word was brought off from shore, that one of them, 
a man named Lee, had been found dead in the street that 
morning, and that the remaining two were in gaol. In the 
evening they came oflP, bringing the following particulars. 

After reaching shore the day previous, they strolled about 
the city for a time, making a few purchases, and drinking 
pretty freely. About dark they went into a hotel at the upper 
part of the city kept by an Irish- American with whom one 
of them was acquainted. There they remained about two 
hours, rolling ten-pins and drinking until supper time. 

As there was to be a dance at the hotel that evening, and 
they could have lodgings, they concluded to remain there 
over night. In the course of the evening all of them drank 
very freely, but Lee was the most intoxicated of the three. 
About eleven o'clock he retired ; but, half an hour later he 
came out of his room, and said that he was going out for a 
walk. Before he came back the others retired, and it is not 
definitely known whether he returned or not. 

They were awakened the next morning by a policeman, 
who broke into their room, told them that their comrade had 
been found dead in the streets, and wanted to know if they 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 79 

knew anything about it. They told him about his going out 
the evening previous, but supposed that he had returned. 
The policeman then took them to the dead house to identify 
the body of their comrade, and after that to a magistrate, 
who having heard what they had to say concerning the affair, 
released them. The only mark to be seen on Lee's body, 
was a small purplish spot over his left temple, which bore evi- 
dence of his having received a blow there. 

By some it is thought that he was murdered by some of 
the old crew of the Florida, many of whom were at the 
hotel that evening, and with whom Lee had some angry 
words. Others accuse the landlord of committing the mur- 
der, but I can't see for what reason he should do it. Not 
that I think he would hesitate, if there was a sufficient in- 
ducement for so doing, but he had no trouble with Lee, and 
he certainly could not have done it for money, as Lee at the 
time of his death had not more than two or three milreas. 

The sleeping apartments of the American house are on 
the second floor, opening upon a balcony, which overlooks the 
street. Now by some it is thought that he returned after 
going out, and wishing to go out the second time, instead of 
going down stairs, walked over the balustrade, which is very 
low, and was killed by the fall. The latter I think is the 
most plausible explanation ; more so, after seeing the scene 
of the affair. The body was found but a short distance from 
where he would have fallen. He might not have been in- 
stantly killed, but lived long enough to get that distance. 

Early the next morning, Monday, Captain Townsend sent 
his clerk ashore to make preparations for the funeral. About 
noon he returned with the coffin, and a few minutes later the 
body was brought on board. At 2.30 p. m. all hands were 
called to bury the dead, and the funeral service of the Epis- 
copal church was read by the Captain. 

The body was then taken ashore for burial, accompanied 
by several of the officers and crew, and a firing party of 



80 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

eight marines. The cemetery to which we conveyed the re- 
mains lies at the western extremity of the city, and is the 
most beautiful one that I ever saw. It is very large, and 
very tastefully laid out in lovely walks and drives ; the roads 
and paths on either hand shaded by splendid trees, or bor- 
dered with beds of the most beautiful flowers of almost 
every variety. On the whole it appears more like some 
beautiful garden, than the resting-place of the dead. For 
this I give the Brazilians credit ; thus, leaving grim-visaged 
death shorn of some of his terrors, so that one could almost be 
content to die, if one could only rest in such a lovely spot as 
this. 

In the corner set apart for the Americans, under the 
shadow of a beautiful weeping willow, we laid him down. 
At the grave the usual services were read by the surgeon, 
and, when all was over, we fired three volleys over his grave, 
and returned to the ship. 

Bobert Lee was an Irishman by birth, but had lived in 
the United States ever since he was a small boy, for the 
most part in the neighborhood of Boston, and in thought, 
word, and external appearance was a thorough American. 
Naturally of a quiet, retiring, kind-hearted disposition, he 
was without an enemy in the ship. He served all through 
the war in the army of the Potomac. It seems hard that, 
after escaping all the dangers there, he should die such a death 
far away from home and friends, in a foreign land. He 
leaves a motherless little girl about twelve years of age, with 
some friends in Roxbury. 

Oh ! I came near forgetting to mention " the wedding of 
Mary and John," which was celebrated on board the Wa- 
chusett, Saturday evening, July 22d, the mate and steward- 
ess of the American steamer A , being the happy couple. 

The A is chartered by the Brazilian government, and 

by it used in transporting troops and supplies to their forces 
in Paraguay. 



AND A VOYAGE 1 HITHER. 81 

In the forenoon of that day the mate came on board and 
asked the Captain if he could and would marry him. He 
said that the steamer was to leave in three days, and that he 
wished to get married before she started. By the Brazilian 
laws, the marriage would be illegal, unless the bans were 
published for three weeks previous. Of course Captain 
Townsend could and would tie the knot for them, and with 
his usual generous accommodating disposition, and a desire 
to see everything done with as much eclat as possible, he set 
his cook at work to prepare refreshments, sent his steward 
ashore for fruits, flowers, and other decorations, and had the 
cabins and quarter-deck finely und tastefully decorated. The 
couple came aboard about 8 p. m., but the ceremony was de- 
layed about an hour in waiting for the captain of the steamer. 

The bride was either very timid or opposed to the wedding, 
for she kept her ftice buried in her handkerchief nearly the 
whole time, and appeared as if she were crying bitterly. She 
was richly attired, but in a manner entirely devoid of good 
taste. As far as I was able to judge by an occasional glimpse 
of her face, I considered her a very plain, unattractive woman. 
John, a tali, broad-shouldered, good looking young man, with 
a frank, open, honest expression, tried every means within 
his power to soothe her, but without success. 

As soon as everything was in readiness for the ceremony, 
all hands were called aft on the quarter-deck to witness the 
marriage ceremony. Mary and John took their place, and 
then the Captain proceeded to marry them. Mary still kept 
her face buried in her handkerchief, only uncovering it to 
answer in a low tremulous voice the questions asked her. 
The captain of the steamer gave the bride away, John shpped 
a ring on her finger, and the twain became one flesh. 

After the ceremony they repaired to the upper cabin, and 

partook of the refreshments there prepared, and where all 

the officers were presented to them. After they had taken 

their departure, the captain summoned a large number of us 

5 



82 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

into the cabin where we drank to the health of the bride and 
groom in a glass of the Captain's wine. Three days later 
the A — , started for Paraguay, and two smiling faces waved 
their handkerchiefs to us in passing. 

Doubtless you begin to think that I have been a long time 
in Rio without getting ashore. My first cruise on shore was 
in company with a friend who has been in Rio many times 
before, and was almost as well acquainted with all the places 
of interest, as with those of his native city. 

We landed at a narrow quay in the middle of Palace 
Square, one of the busiest quarters of Rio. This square is 
quite neat and pretty for a Portuguese city, although without 
any attractive ornament, and built without order or taste. 
After passing the prison-like granite building near the center, 
dignified by the name of palace, we entered Rua Direita at 
its rear, passed under an arch which connects the palace to a 
range of chambers on the opposite side of the street, and 
stopped before the Royal Chapel near by. This is very plain 
and simple without, but very rich within, as we found upon 
entering. The most attractive thing to be seen there, is the 
painting of the Crucifixion, which hangs against the wall op- 
posite the entrance, and which is so well executed, that one 
needs to lay his hand upon the canvass before he fully con- 
vinces himself that it is not a living reality. So perfect is it, 
that one feels sure that he beholds the blood trickling down 
from the spear-thrust in His side and the prints of the nails 
in His hands and feet. On His countenance one distinctly 
sees the expression of pain together with that seraphic smile, 
which could only belong to one very near to Heaven and 
God. It seems incredible that the skill of man could exe- 
cute anything so perfect as this. The roof or ceiling of the 
Chapel is high and vaulted, and upon it is the finest fresco 
painting that I ever saw. There are represented " the an- 
gels of God ascending and descending upon the Son of man." 

From the Rua Direita we turned up into Rua do Ouvredor, 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 83 

a narrow street, filthy and badly paved, but the Broadway of 
Kio. This street is lined on either hand by attractive shops 
of fancy goods, colored silks and cloths, and flowers and 
feathers. Among the most attractive curiosities to us were 
the large number of strange and brilliantly colored bugs and 
insects, either seen in large collections in suitable frames, or 
tastefully set in some article of jewelry. The greater num- 
ber of the last mentioned we saw on Rua do Ourives, or the 
jewelers' street, which crosses the middle of Rua do OuvrirJor. 
This street is upwards of two-thirds of a mile in length, and 
is occupied throughout by jewelers and silver-smiths. 

The head of Rua do Ouvridor opens into Don Pedro 
Square, near a noted Cafe. We were somewhat faint when 
we reached the head of this street, so we entered the Cafe 
and called for coffee and cakes, throwing down the usual 
price, three cents. The Portuguese and their descendants, as 
well as the Spaniards, are very fond of this beverage, as is 
shown by the almost numberless little saloons or cafes which 
are found on almost every corner of the streets of their cities 
and towns, and these always filled with customers. The 
quantity of the coffee obtained is small, but the strength of 
a large cupful is condensed into that of a small one. I re- 
member one saloon in particular where the cups in which 
they brought us the coffee, would not hold more than two 
table spoonfuls, and were emptied at a single draught. The 
sensation then experienced has been aptly compared to "that 
of a slight electric shock." But to return to the Cafe, and 
the coffee and cakes that were soon brought. There we re- 
mained upwards of an hour a Vespagnole^ eating cakes, sip- 
ping our coffee, and listening to the songs of a quartette of 
little boys and girls, who accompanied their songs with the 
sound of the flute, violin, harp, and guitar. The sweetness 
of their childish voices, as they sang for us the Star Span- 
gled Banner, 1 had never heard equaled, and it tempted me 
to many subsequent visits to this cafe. 



84 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

The Frencli use brandy as an addition to their coffee, and 
their exaniple is followed to some extent by the Brazilians. 
Whenever coffee is called for, in many saloons, a decanter 
filled with brandy and finely graded is placed upon the table ; 
then, when the bill is called for, the bottle is examined and 
one charged according to the amount used. I tried the ex- 
periment, but don't think that brandy is any improvement to 
coffee. 

After leaving the cafe the attractions of Rua do Ouvridor, 
induced us to turn our steps thitherward again. A promi- 
nent reason, that this street has been the principal rendezvous 
during our stay, for our jolly tars, even of the finest cloth, is 
that there they would meet, either in the shops or on the 
street, the most attractive specimens of womankind to be 
found in Rio. The man sjiake from experience who said 
that, "it is the sailor alone, after being absent as he often is, 
for weeks and months from the presence of endearing woman, 
who can fully appreciate her cheering attractions. To him 
woman is a new creature, the fairest object he can meet with 
in a voyage ; and, when contrasted in his mind with his 
gross companions of the ruder sex with whom he has weath- 
ered the seas, he is enraptured, and the first fair one, in what- 
ever garb, that meets his eye, appears to him like a perfect 
houri, and he eagerly gazes at her and at all of her sex, with 
an open soul of admiration swimming in his eyes." 

The females, those that are of Spanish or Portuguese des- 
cent, are generally of a pale complexion, but have a certain 
delicacy of feature which renders them very pleasing objects ; 
and the affability of their manners heightens the agreeable- 
ness of their personal attractions. The proverbial Portu- 
guese jealousy still exists among the many in Rio, not only 
to mar, if not to deaden their own social pleasures, but also to 
prevent a stranger from forming any extended acquaintance. 
During our stay here, however, I have formed many pleasant 
acquaintances among both sexes, and the moments passed in 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 85 

their society will ever be remembered as some of tlie pleas- 
antest of my life. 

A large proportion of the inhabitants of Rio are miserable 
half-naked blacks and mulattoes. Although the greater num- 
ber of these are slaves, if at any time they become free, they 
are from that time, nearly, if not quite the white man's equal. 
They may vote, hold slaves, hold civil or military offices, or 
even become members in the House of Assembly. The de- 
gree of familiarity existing between the whites and blacks is 
disgusting to a newly arried American. It is no uncommon 
sight to behold a refined, intelligent looking white lady prom- 
enading the streets, arm in arm with a coarse looking, coarse 
appearing negro. 

In the evening we went to the French theatre. This dif- 
fers from any previously seen by me as regards the internal 
arrangements, and closely resembles a German bier garden. 
At short intervals about the parquet, dress circle, and galleries, 
tables were placed and chairs set around them. We went 
in and seated ourselves at one of these tables, and hand-bills 
were immediately brought us by pretty waiter girls. On 
one side of the bills was the programme of the evenings' 
performance, and on the other a list of hquors, cigars, fruits, 
coffee, and cakes, with prices of the several articles attached. 
We called for coffee, cakes, and cigars, and there we sat in 
true Brazilian style, sipping our coffee, smoking, and convers- 
ing between the acts, calling for a fresh supply of articles 
when required. 

The piece enacted was an amusing comedy, and although 
intelligible to no one of the party but myself, yet we had 
many a hearty laugh over what I could understand, and 
translate to them. Several songs were sung with piano ac- 
companiment, and there was a great deal of dancing, separate- 
ly and intermixed with the play, that all could understand and 
appreciate. The Brazilians appear to be very fond of ballet 



86 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

dancing, judging by the manner in which every such dance 
was encored. 

Another day when we were on shore, we decided to pay a 
visit to Praya Grande, which is opposite to the city, across 
the elliptic bay, and about three miles distant. Having pro- 
cured tickets at the office near the landing, we stepped aboard 
the ferry-boat and after a pleasant ride of fifteen minutes, 
we were brought to the opposite side. Arriving there, we 
found Praya Grande to fully answer our expectations in re- 
gard to elegance of mansions and beauty of surroundings ; 
a happy commingling of city and country. There were large 
palatial mansions, situated in large, beautiful gardens, fairly 
embowered with trees ; wide streets, smooth and beautifully 
shaded, and everything, in short, as lovely and charming as 
one could wish. 

One garden above all others attracted our attention^ 
not only on account of its size and beauty, but also because 
we there saw growing many home plants and flowers. From 
the gardener, who was standing near the gate, we obtained 
permission to take a walk about the grounds. While com- 
menting upon a bed of strawberries, many of which were 
then ripe, a pleasant, middle aged lady came along and asked 
us if we did not belong to the American man-of-war in the 
harbor. We replied that we did. She told us that both her 
husband and herself were from Connecticut, and many of her 
friends were now resident there. They left the states about 
ten years ago and had not returned since ; but they hoped to 
go there again ere long. She, seeing the longing looks that we 
were casting toward the strawberry-bed, a^ked us if we would 
like to have some strawberries. We replying that we would 
very much indeed, she said that if we would wait a few min- 
utes she would have some prepared for us. In the meantime 
she invited us to seats in a charming little summer-house, 
near by, and then entered into conversation with me, I hav- 
ing told her that I too was from Connecticut. In about half 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 87 

an hour, a servant came, bearing a dish of strawberries 
smothered in cream, accompanied by another bearing short- 
cakes and a pitcher of milk. We then had such a feast as 
we had not tasted for many a day, and one which we enjoyed 
as only those can that have been similarly situated. About 
five o'clock we told her that we must return. She picked, 
arranged, and presented each of us a beautiful bouquet of flow- 
ers, and invited us to make her another visit should we re- 
main long enough in Rio Janeiro to come ashore again. She 
said that it was so seldom she ever saw one from Con- 
necticut, or from the United States even, that she prized such 
visits very highly, ever considering them as a great favor to 
herself. We told her that we had not enjoyed ourselves so 
much since we left home, and should by no means deny our- 
selves the great pleasure of another visit to her, if practica- 
ble, especially when we had every reason to believe that our 
visit would be received with pleasure. 

A visit to the Navy yard reveals no great wonder or at- 
traction, with the exception of the dry dock, which is spoken 
of as being the finest in the world. It is about three hun- 
dred and twenty feet long, and seventy -five feet wide, cut out 
of the solid rock. On the stocks and nearly ready for launch- 
ing, when I visited the yard a month ago, were two iron clads, 
the first attempts of the Brazilians at establishing an iron 
clad navy. About a week ago one of them was completed' 
and started for the seat of war in Paraguay. The Brazil- 
ians have great hopes of these iron clads, but they appear 
to me to be weak opponents for our monitors. Their finish- 
ing shops for shot and shell were much better conducted than 
I expected to find them; but then we, with ideas that there 
are no people in the world equal to the Americans, would 
attribute this circumstance to tlie fact that the superinten- 
dents of the shops are Americans. 

In traversing any of the more fashionable streets of Rio, 
one cannot fail to notice the great number of blinds that are 



88 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

left partially open, and mirrors placed upon the inside of them. 
For a long time I was puzzled to know for what purpose this 
was done, and at last, I requested a friend to tell me. He 
said that the mirrors were so placed that the occupants of the 
rooms could perceive whoever was passing in the streets, or 
what was being done there. If one wanders from the busi- 
ness part, to the rear of the city, he will find many pleasant 
squares containing public fountains, and will see the humble 
dwelling of the lowly side by side with the palatial mansion 
of the noble and wt althy. The former are seldom more 
than one story high, and the windows are screened by lattice 
blinds which swing at the top. Upon pleasant evenings, 
these blinds will be seen opened a little way, and in the cov- 
erts, bashful lovers who meet there to whisper their soft en- 
dearments. This is said to be the custom for all their court- 
ships, a custom derived from the mother country. The man- 
sions of the noble and wealthy are usually surrounded by 
high, strong walls, the entrances to which are secured by mas- 
sive double doors. The Portuguese jealousy of females may 
there be observed in the closed blinds and iron bars for the 
windows. 

On another excursion to the city, we found all the churches, 
stores, and houses decorated. It was a religious holiday. 
All were attired in their best garments, and all places of busi- 
ness were closed. Before the principal churches in the eve- 
ning, there was a very fine display of fireworks, prominent 
in which were rockets and fire-balloons. The people appear 
to attach supernatural power to these fireworks, as aiding in 
the banishment of evil spirits, and there is always a grand 
display on every church holiday, or celebration of high mass. 

Once while lying here we filled our tanks with shore water. 
The consequence was that several of the crew were taken 
sick and some of them have not yet recovered from the ef- 
fects of the change of water. It is a well known fact that 
much sickness and many deaths are occasioned by the change 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 89 

of water in going from one country to another. Probably 
there is no water in the world as pure or as healthy as good 
condensed water. Not only this, but when a vessel con- 
denses all the water used by her crew, it obviates all the sick- 
ness occasioned by the change in going from one country to 
another. 

After we had been at Rio upwards of two months, it was 
one morning called to mind that we had not " moored ship," 
and that it would be an excellent idea to do so. This is done 
by dropping the anchors some distance apart and then attach- 
ing both of the cables to a large swivel, so that when the 
ship swings around with the tide, the chains do not become 
twisted. The principal object in mooring ship, is that she 
may take up less room in swinging, than when lying with a 
single anchor down. It is usually considered a very short 
and simple performance, but whether we had no superintend- 
ent, or whether we had too many, I can't say, I only know, 
that we made a long tedious job of it, using up the greater 
portion of the day. 

For a visit to Botafogo a number of us set out a few days 
ago on foot. We arrived there after an hour's delightful 
walk, having stopped frequently to examine and admire 
the unusual beauties of a residence and its surroundings. 
It was a charming sunny morning, and the undulating 
smooth road, now skirting the water side, and thence winding 
around the base of a range of hills, was hemmed in by the 
hedges of gardens, or lofty walls of masonry, above which 
hung the rich fruits of palmate and other tropical trees with 
flowers of the jessamine and honeysuckle, scenting the air. 
At Botafogo many of the wealthy business men of Rio have 
their residences, and some of them are almost perfect para- 
dises, with their beautiful and extensive grounds attached. 

A short distance from the principal quarter of Botafogo, 
the Botanic Garden is located. This comprises from seventy- 
five to one hundred acres plotted off into groves and flower- 
5* 



90 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

beds, artificial mounds, and broad avenues meeting at a pretty 
fountain near the center. In the grove were the dark oHve, 
the crotons, the crescentia, which bears a great calabash ; the 
carambola, which bears an excellent arid fruit, the cinnamon, 
red pepper, and clove trees. The avenues are shaded by the 
dense foliage of the mango tree ; the bamboo and plantain ; 
and the coffee, orange, and other trees peculiar or indigenous 
to South America. But in the variety of flowers, or in their 
beauty and rarity, the garden that we visited at Porto Praya 
would fully equal, if not surpass this place. The scenery all 
around is remarkably picturesque and beautiful, and the effect 
is heightened by the shaft of the Coocovado which rises im- 
mediately behind the town of Botafogo. 

There has been so much else to write about, of apparently 
more interest, that I have entirely neglected to speak of the 
repairs which were entered upon soon after our arrival here, 
and have beeu the occasion of our long stay. Upon an ex- 
amination of the engine, a crack some seven or eight inches 
in length was discovered in one of the crank-pins. For a 
month the engineers were engaged in putting a band around 
it, and making some other necessary repairs. We have had 
a bridge put up just abaft the smoke stack, and resting on 
the bulwarks. This I think is a decided improvement. 

Another improvement was the extension of the poop about 
five feet, so as to cover the wheel, and underneath having a 
little room on each side ; one for the armory, and the other 
for the signal locker. This also makes a good shelter for the 
orderly on watch, and then gives us more room to work the 
gun. 

This was finished about three weeks ago, and the carpen- 
ters have since been busy in repairing the decks, getting new 
spars in place of those destroyed or injured by the gale, etc. 

We have had a great number of desertions since we have 
been lying here, more than thirty in all, and but two or three 
of the runaways have been captured. With a few excep- 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 91 

tions, those that have deserted were excellent seamen, among 
the best that we had in the ship. These we find make quite 
a lessening in our effective force. 

To-morrow we leave here for Cape Town, so that to-night 
we will look upon the lighting up of the convents on the hills, 
and of the churches on the oblong plain beneath, of rockets, 
and other signs of a religious holiday ; hear the sweet sounds 
from the bands of the English, French, and Portuguese frig- 
ates near us, and hear the many other evening attractions 
and pleasures of our stay at Rio, for the last time in many 
months or years. 



92 CHINA AND JAPAN, 



LETTER X. 

ns' Bi 

October 2, 1865. 



IT. S. S. Wachtjsett, Simons' Bay, South Africa, ) 
My Deak R.; 



"All hands immoor ! unmoor ! 
Hark to the hoarse, but welcome sound, 

Startling the seaman's sweetest slumbers, 
The groaning capstan's turning round. 

The cheerful fife's enlivening numbers ; 
And lingering idlers join the brawl. 
And merry ship-boys swell the call. 
All hands unmoor ! unmoor \" 

Nearly all had become wearied with our long stay at Rio, 
so that when the orders were given to get under way Sep- 
tember 20th, all sprang to the call with alacrity, and cheer- 
fully assisted in all the many necessary preparations. Early 
in the morning two of our number bade us " good bye," and 
were transferred to the Susquehanna, there to await transpor- 
tation to the States, their period of enhstment having. expired. 
It was nearly 5 p. m. when the shrill whistles and gruff voices 
of the boatswain and his three mates piped " all hands up 
anchor." Up from below, through every hatch-way, like 
trains of ants, to their several stations came the interminable 
throng, — all longing to be at sea once more. 

The shrill whistle piped again on deck, and from stem to 
stern the word was passed, — the fifes and vioHn struck up 
a well-timed quickstep — and tramp, tramp, stepped the centi- 
peded train over the deck. In a moment the helm was up, 
around went the propeller, and the ship moved slowly and 
gracefully down the Bay from her anchorage, dipping her 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 93 

colors in return to those of the vessels she passed, and to the 
playing of Hail Columbia by their bands. As soon as we 
had steamed out of port, so that we could shape our course, 
the fires were put out, the clanking of the engine ceased, 
and sail was made on the ship. 

Our month's run from Rio Janeiro to the Cape was char- 
acterized by strong, favorable winds, no very severe storms 
nor rough seas, and everything considered, it was as speedy 
and pleasant a run as we could reasonably expect. The only 
damages done to the ship was the springing of one top-mast 
and carrying away the jib-boom. 

The man that we received in exchange for the two we trans- 
ferred to the Susquehana, falls far short of filling the place of 
one of them. He is a short, thick-set, thick-headed, ill-featured 
Dutchman, and decidedly the meanest man in the "Guard." As 
soon as he came on board he was made acting-corporal, and 
the first night he commenced operations by reporting three 
or four of the guard for some trifling misdemeanor. Report- 
ing one of our own number is never done unless absolutely 
necessary. So when he commenced in reporting every one 
for unnoticeable misdemeanors, discord and enmity were soon 
created in the "Guard." Our number is small in comparison 
with the rest of the ship's company, and any division is to be 
feared and avoided as much as possible. It seems strange 
that we should have allowed such an one to have brought 
discord into the " Guard." And yet he did bring it. An- 
other example of the maxim — " Great results oftdmes spring 
from trifling causes." One night he reported a man for 
sleeping on post, and about half an hour later he himself was 
found asleep on watch. So some of the crew fastened a hal- 
yard to his feet, and then from the other side of the deck, 
they triced him up by the heels, and left him hanging about 
six feet from the deck. He was half an hour in releasing 
himself from this predicament, and was fortunate in not being 
discovered by the ofiicers. 



94 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

As captain's orderly I had enjoyed all the privileges that I 
wished, and was so well satisfied with my duties that I was 
not pleased with the promotion to corporal, and duty in the 
gangway assigned me. But there was no use in remonstrat- 
ing, so I accepted of the change with the best possible grace. 
To be sure I have more leisure, and there are some other ad- 
vantages gained, but still, in my estimation, the cons more 
than outnumber the pros. 

On this passage my wardrobe was found, upon examination, 
to be in such a condition as to compel me to relinquish all 
other duties and pleasures, and to devote several days to 
mending and repairing. At first it was slow and awkward 
work, but, by patience, and spurred on by necessity, I soon 
became quite expert with the needle. I can safely say now, 
that I do not prick my fingers more than once a minute, on 
an average, and quite often am not compelled to do my work 
over the second time. What prizes we will all be in the 
matrimonial market when we return home — able to cook, 
wash, sew, and do many other things to lighten the labors of 
all the future Mrs. ! — but I will not anticipate. Yes, neces- 
sity has compelled me to learn many things which I will 
find useful and advantageous in after life. How often have 
I seen the time, when, if I had known how to sew, some 
sorrow or mortification would have been spared me ! 

One personage we have on board which I think I have 
not yet introduced to you ; that is a large, dog-faced monkey, 
which we purchased at St. Catherine. He is decidedly the 
most knowing, and most comical monkey that I ever saw, and 
scarcely a day passes but that he is the occasion of much 
mirth to the crew. The sailors have taught him so that he 
will sit up and smoke a pipe, dance, and perform an immense 
number of interesting feats and tricks. Whenever the crew 
are all aft on the quarter deck, at muster, then Jocko is in 
his glory. He will go down on the berth deck, and woe be 
to the ditty-box that is left unfastened, or anything that he 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 95 

can injure left within his reach, for he will surely seize upon 
it. He tried his hand at bread-making for us several times, 
(a pan of flour having been left by the cook where he could 
get at it,) to the ruin of the flour and the injury of whatever 
might be lying near. In Rio we procured some little 
Guinea-pigs which Jocko evidently thought were going to 
supplant him in the affections of the crew. Instead of kilHng 
or injuring them, which he easily could have done, he used 
to carry them up to the pendant-tackle block, when he would 
leave them and then descend to the deck and watch for them 
to fall. Fortunately all were rescued, with one exception, 
before his intentions were fully carried out. 

At other times poor Jocko has been the medium of com- 
municating the dislike which the crew had for certain oflicers. 
On this passage a great deal of merriment and no small ex- 
citement was created, by dressing him up in a uniform re- 
sembling S.'s, and then sending him aft to where he was 
. standing in the midst of a group of other officers. They 
greeted his advent by a roar of laughter, while S. was fairly 
purple with rage. Immediately he rushed into the cabin 
and reported the circumstance to the Captain, saying that it 
was the greatest insult he ever had in his life, comparing 
Mm to a monkey ! The Captain ordered Mr. Philip to find 
out who the perpetrators were, but all his investigations were 
without success. No one knew anything about it. So the 
affair was dismissed with orders that the uniform should be 
altered, and that nothing of this kind should occur again. It 
will be a long time, however, before the affair will be hushed 

up, and many will yet be the hearty laugh had about " S 

and Jocko." 

For the past two or three months, the sergeant has been 
at work upon a duo of American citizens of African descent, 
training, or attempting to train them for the " ship's drum- 
mer and fifer." By dint of explaining, coaxing, pi'omising. 



96 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

threatening, together with sundry raps with the drumsticks, 

"A spur 
To prick the sides of Ms intent/' 

he at length forced so much music through their unusually 
thick skulls, that he pronounced them far enough advanced 
to beat to quarters. Accordingly three or four evenings ago 
they were brought up to make their debut. They played so 
near the appropriate air that about one out of every ten 
knew what they meant, and went to their quarters, but the 
rest stood and looked at them in blank amazement, wonder- 
ing what in the world they were attempting to do, or what 
was meant. Finally a resort to the boatswain's whistle was 
necessary, before all came to their quarters. After retreat 
was beaten, Mr. Pinlips called all hands aft on the quarter- 
deck to muster, and told them that whenever they should 
hear that noise again we might know that it was for quarters. 

Friday, October 20, 18 Go, will ever remain a white day 
in my geographical calendar, for it was then that I, for 
the first time, rested my eyes upon that black continent "whose 
people have given the world more political and religious 
trouble than their physical strength has ever given it aid." 
The truth of this remark is painfully evident in the experi- 
ences of our own country. It was then also a white day 
beyond this geographical wonder, in that after thirty days of 
sea rolling, and ship dietetics, we were to have the quiet re- 
pose of port, to taste shore fruits, and once again to place 
foot on good solid mother earth. 

When I went on deck this morning, there were the great 
rocky buttresses, and ragged mountains of South Africa, jut- 
ting away out into the sea, which rolled in upon them from 
the South Pole, or, at least, the Antarctic continent. Table 
Mountain, and all the individualized and named peaks of this 
renowned Cape were in sight as we ran along the shores of 
'' Good Hope," rounded its promontory and entered the smooth 
green waters of Simon's Bay. There are a few neat looking 
English houses clustered on the beach, at the foot of the 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 97 

gray, naked mountain which towered behind them. About 
noon we cast our anchor in front of Simon's Town, a pretty, 
quiet, little place of about one thousand inhabitants. 

The anchor down, then came all the bustle and prepara- 
tion of an arrival in port. In full uniform, with everything 
bright and shining, we were ordered to hold ourselves in 
readiness to be paraded at a moment's notice to receive any 
distinguished visitor that might come on board. The boats 
were lowered and Mr. Grove despatched to wait upon the 
authorities and arrange about the salutes. Various boats 
were hurrying off to us. One M^as that of the health officer 
and harbor-master, before whose visit we must not communi- 
cate with the shore ; another, with the United States flag 
flying, brought the American Consul ; a third, with a pen- 
non in the bow and an English ensign in the stern, brought 
us a Lieutenant from the English senior officer's ship — the 
Valorous. 

The salutes over, the string of small boats, which had 
been lying astern to be out of the way of the guns, now pull 
up to the gangway, and the occupants, each striving to get 
up before his neighbor, climb up the ship's side, and step on 
board. There are provision dealers, grocers, tailors, bum- 
boatmen, washerwomen, all zealous to show their cards and 
recommendations from previous ships and secure the patron- 
age of the various messes. To the ship's company the bum- 
boatman is the most useful of these merchants. He may be 
all in one. His boat is their corner grocery store. At meal 
hours he comes alongside the ship with his fresh fruits, fresh 
bread, cooked fish and meats, and a tempting variety of arti- 
cles, peculiar to the port in which the ship is lying. He is a 
convenience, also, for communicating with the shore, making 
purchases, bringing ofl* small packages and such like things. 
All avail themselves of his services, preferring them to the ifs 
and ands, the mighty concession which so often attends the 
getting ashore, and nine chances out of ten not getting ashore 



98 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

when the article is most required. Of course, a man in such 
close association with the people of the ship, must have a 
certain amount of reputable character, or else he may do 
much mischief by smuggling liquor, and other important ar- 
ticles on board. The choosing of a bumboatman, Mr. Philip 
has ever left to the sergeant and master-at-arms. On this 
occasion a tall, slender, neatly- dressed Malay with a red 
handkerchief around his head won their favor. 

Simon's Bay owes its existence as a place of note to the 
fact that it is sheltered from those fierce south-east winds 
which roll the Atlantic in before Table Bay and Cape Town, 
where, from May to September it is very dangerous for ves- 
sels. It is the site of the government dockyard and the place 
for the anchorage of the government shipping. Near the 
entrance of the harbor is a small island on which stands a 
lighthouse. How long we will remain here I can't say, but 
Dame Rumor hath it, that in a few days we are to go around 
to Cape Town. But she is a fickle jade, and not always to 
be relied upon. 



AND A YOYAGE THITHER. 99 



LETTER XIo 

U. S. S. Wachusett, Cape Town,) 
South Africa, November 22, 1865. J 

My Deak R. : 

Dame Rumor was right. We remained but a few days at 
Simon's Bay and then came around to Cape Town. 

We had one pleasant occupation while we were lying at 
Simon's Bay, and that was, fishing. A line over the side 
with a bit of pork attached for bait, and an abundance of 
mackerel, salmon, and two or three other varieties of fish 
would reward the fisherman. While on watch in the even- 
ing, I used to catch fish enough for breakfast for our mess* 
At the same time with mine, there would be lines out all the 
way from the forecastle to the poop, and nought was heard 
but the exultant cry of some fortunate fisherman, the thump 
of the fish as it was detached from the hook and cast on deck, 
and the flapping of it as it lay there. Upon our first arrival 
the harbor-master placed in the Surgeon's hands the follow- 
ing printed paper : 

notice. 

" There is a fish in Simon's Bay, commonly called ' Toad 
Fish.' It is about six inches long, back dark, with deep 
black stripes ; belly, white with faint yellow patches. It 
swims near the surface, and is a constant attendant upon the 
lines employed in fishing. When taken from the water it 
puiFs out considerably. Should any portion of this fish be 
eaten, death ensues in a few minutes." 

From curiosity to see the fish we all tried to catch one and 
at last were successful. We found it to exactly answer to 
the description given. 



100 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

We remained at Simon's Bay long enough to make some 
repairs on the top-mast and take in coal, and on Friday, Oc- 
tober 27th, we came around to Cape Town. The saihng 
distance is about forty miles, and we steamed it in a little 
more than three hours, beating the Valorous' time by about 
half an hour. We anchored about a mile from the shore. 

Cape Town, the capital of Southern Africa, and the most 
important European settlement on the continent, is situated 
near the isthmus of a peninsula, formed by Simon's Bay on 
the east, and Table Bay on the w^est, on which last the city 
itself is built. Immediately behind, rises precipitously Table 
Mountain, 3,582 feet high, above the level of the sea, and 
consisting chiefly of steep cliffs of naked schist and granite 
The Devil's Hill, 3,315, and Lion's Head, 2,160 feet high, 
rise on each side. The triple summit forms a very conspicu- 
ous object from the sea, over which these spots command a 
very striking prospect. 

Cape Town being the only good place of refreshment for 
vessels between Europe and America on one side, and India, 
China, Japan, and Australia on the other, it must ever re- 
main a place of great commercial importance. The country 
itself affords for exportation, wines, hides, skins, and a great 
variety of minor articles. The population is estimated at 
35,000. It was settled by the Dutch in 1650, and among 
the European residents here, the Dutch element greatly pre- 
dominates. In the war between England and Holland, in 
1795, Cape Town was taken by the English, but at the time 
of the peace, it was restored. Upon the renewal of hostili- 
ties, it was recaptured in 1806, and since that time it has 
been retained by the English. 

Table Bay affords accommodations for a great amount of 
shipping, but from the month of May until September it 
affords a very insecure anchorage, being exposed to the fierce 
southeast winds which prevail at that season of the year. 
During the ^gale which prevailed last May, it is estimated 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 101 

that seventy ships and smaller craft were beached, and up- 
wards of fifty lives lost. It was the worst gale that has vis^ 
ited Table Bay for many years. They are at present engaged 
in constructing a breakwater which shall protect the anchor- 
age from those long, heavy swells which make the anchorage 
so dangerous during the prevalence of those gales from the 
southeast. At this season of the year the harbor is considered 
safe, only on rare occasions some little annoyance is caused 
by the sea being so rough, that boats and men on shore are 
compelled to remain there several days before they can re- 
turn to their ships. One time when the Captain and a large 
number of the crew were ashore, our bumboatman — pointing 
to Table Mountain — said " The Minzenburg has its cap on, 
and we will have a storm before morning from the southeast." 
And so we did. We dropped another anchor, and our com- 
munication with the shore for several days was interrupted, 
difficult, and dangerous. 'Tis said, that whenever the 
cloud gathers on the top of Table Mountain, the wind blows 
from the southeast. The winds of southern Africa are very 
fitful, changing from the northwest to the southeast without 
a moment's warning, more than the gathering of the cloud- 
cap on Table Mountain. 

There is much less shipping in port than I expected to 
find; a couple English men-of-war, half a dozen steamers, 
and some thirty or forty merchant vessels and smaller craft 
are about all. 

In its general appearance, Cape Town reminds one of a 
New England city, and viewed from the ship, nestled as it is 
at the base of Table Mountain, with its many church spires 
and fine buildings, the substantial farm-houses on the outskirts, 
the cars arriving and departing, all together form a picture 
that will forever remain imprinted upon my memory, ever 
to be looked at with pleasure. 

My first ramble about Cape Town was when on general 
liberty and accompanied by one of the orderlies. After 



102 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

landing and purchasing what articles we wished, we set out 
for a stroll about the city. The site of Cape Town is an 
inclined plane, gently sloping from northeast to southwest. 
Long street, extending from the landing in a northwest di- 
rection through the town, is the principal street. It is very 
wide, smooth, and level, and on it are located the court house, 
post office, and principal church, hotel, banks, and stores in 
the city. Other streets run parallel with this, connected with 
each other by numerous cross-streets. After walking for a 
short time we agreed that it was much easier and more pleas- 
ant to ride. Accordingly we procured a cab, — " Hansoms " 
they call them, light, two-wheeled, basket concerns, with a 
seat perched up behind for the driver, just room enough for 
two, and very easy, very nice to ride in we found them. 
Everything arranged, away we started along central wharf, 
next the sea, our tirst object being to visit the Castle. Our 
pony was smart and active, and we were brought to our des- 
tination in a short time after we started, stopping a few min- 
utes at the barracks on our way, for the purpose of seeing 
the soldiers drill. 

The Castle is an ancient Dutch structure, built in the early 
years of the colony. It has heavy stone walls, and surround- 
ing it is a wide, deep moat now disused and filled with rushes 
and long grass. We passed over a draw bridge, entered 
through an archway (which is closed by a heavy iron gate,) 
and stood in a square some forty or fifty feet across. Stone 
staircases lead to the top of the walls on each side, one of 
which we ascended and stood on the summit of the fortress. 
A few heavy ancient pieces of ordnance on the side facing 
the sea, were the only defenses. Below are casemates and 
beds for mortars. Around the walls, inside, are rooms where 
the married soldiers, their wives and families, of the troops 
stationed at Cape Town reside. A guard is daily detailed 
from the barracks for duty here. 

" Will you not come up to the barracks," said a sergeant, 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 103 

as we were about leaving. After a moment's hesitation we 
replied " certainly," and having dismissed our carriage, we 
went there with him, " The barracks " is a fine large brick 
building on the southern outskirts of the town. It is situ- 
ated some little distance back from the street, with a small 
parade-ground in front, within the walls, and a fine large 
one in the park, between them and the street. Entering, we 
found the barracks turned topsy-turvy, and everything at 
variance with the usual cleanliness and good order of a mili- 
tary station. "You must not wonder at not finding us in 
better order," said the sergeant, "for the place has just been 
vacated by the ninth, and we, the tenth, arrived here only two 
days ago; but, come with me to the 'Canteen' and taste our 
Cape wines." 

We had heard much said in praise of the Cape wines, and 
after tasting we were disposed to add a good word of our 
own. Among others, there were placed before us the sev- 
eral kinds of Constancia, which had been presented our host 
by his friend — the superintendent of the vineyard. Such 
delicate, fine flavored wines it had never been our good for- 
tune to taste before, and I fear that we did not strictly fol- 
low the very good advice of Mr. Bacchus, who says: 

" Let them three parts of wine all duly season, 
With nine of water, Avho'd preserve their reason ; 
The first gives health, the second sweet desire ; 
The third tranquility and sleep inspire : 
These are the wholesome draughts which wise men please 
Who from the hanquet home return in peace. 
From a fourth measure insolence proceeds : 
Uproar a fifth ; a sixth wild license breeds ; 
A seventh brings black eyes and livid bruises ; 
The eighth the constable next introduces ; 
Black gall and hatred lurk the ninth beneath ; 
The tenth is madness, arms and fearful death. 
For too much wine poured in one little vessel, 
Trips up all those who seek with it to wrestle." 



104 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

Mindful to some degree of this advice, witli many thanks 
to our English friends for their hospitality, we at length bade 
them " good-bye," and continued our ramble about the town. 

Nearly opposite the barracks is the new market — a fine, 
large brick building, built and owned by the government. 
The stalls within are rented from the government, and are, 
for the most part, tended by fine-looking, buxom English 
girls. At a subsequent visit, in the evening, when the build- 
ing was lighted up, I was charmed by the fine display of 
fruits, wreaths, flowers, and not a little by the fresh beauty 
of many of the venders. Captivated partly by some luscious 
looking pears, closely resembling our Bartletts, and partly 
by the winning looks and tone of the vender as she said " six- 
pence" to my inquiry as to their price, I was led to invest 
somewhat largely in them, and I must confess that I am 
unable to decide which I enjoyed most, the pears or the con- 
versation which I had with the vender whilst tasting them. 
The greater number of these venders are farmers' daughters 
who come in from the country to dispose of their produce. 
Many of them are quite intelligent, witty and lady-like, as 
well as quite pretty in appearance. 

Leaving the market and ascending the eminence at the 
rear of the town on which the signal-station stands, we had a 
splendid bird's-eye view of Cape Town. Hardly could a 
checker-board be laid out with more regularity, and every- 
thing looked so exact, so neat and so clean, that I stood for a 
long time enjoying the view. Our lodgings for the night 
were at the Central Hotel, kept by a middle-aged, matronly 
English lady with whom I spent several hours very pleas- 
antly in conversing. We had as good accommodations as 
one could desire, and I would recommend the Central Hotel 
to any one visiting Cape Town, and desiring " food and lodg- 
ings." In the evening I went out with one of the gentle- 
men boarders for a walk, and to make some calls. As a class, 
I was far better pleased with the English than I expected, 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 105 

and I have formed many pleasant acquaintances among them 
at Cape Town. 

The head of Long street opens upon the Government 
grounds, through which extends the mile long oak avenue, 
a thousand old oaks, with seats underneath for visitors to 
rest and refresh themselves. Upon the right, a short distance 
from the entrance, in a small but beautiful garden, (by some 
called the Botanical, by others the Governor's garden,) 
stands a fine large granite building, the Colonial Museum. 
This I visited several times. A hall extends through the 
middle of the building, on the right of which is the Public 
Library. Opening the door and entering this room, one is 
confronted by a large, splendid oil painting of Queen Victoria. 
I never visit the museum without stopping awhile and enjoy- 
ing this lovely painting. 'Tis said that when Prince Alfred 
visited Cape Town a few years ago, after an absence from 
home of several years, and saw this portrait of his mother, 
he was affected to tears, so true to life is it executed. On 
the left of the hall, before mentioned, is the museum, contain- 
ing stuffed specimens of most of the animals of South Afr 
rica, and also a valuable collection of shells and other curios- 
ities peculiar to the country. Many specimens here found 
are not in any other museum in the world. Nearly opposite 
the museum is the residence of the Governor of the Colony, 
Sir Harry Woodhouse. 

Here many of us have made a commencement to the col- 
lection of curiosities which we intend to gather this cruise. 
I have a few shells, porcupine quills, and ostrich eggs. 
There are many other articles which we would purchase if 
the ship were now " homeward bound," but which we thir 
we had better postpone until that time. 

Of the incidents of our stay at Cape Town, there is ■ 
that will be remembered with more pleasure by me th' 
excursion which a number of us made to Wynberg 
pleasant country town some eighteen or twenty m 
6 



106 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

Cape Town. Being on shore one day on an invitation to 
dine with an English gentleman, and after dinner having a 
few hours to invest in sightseeing, we concluded that the 
most profitable investment would be an excursion to-Wynberg. 
"We went thither in the cars, Wynberg being connected with 
Cape Town by railway. A word or two now about the cars. 
They are some twenty-five or thirty feet in length and divi- 
ded off into apartments large enough to accommodate four 
persons each. According to position and furnishing they are 
denominated first and second class. They are entered by 
doors on the sides, and as soon as one is in and seated the 
door is shut and fastened on the outside by the conductor who 
rides on a little platform at the rear of the car. After leav- 
ing Cape Town, our road for two or three miles was along 
the beach, through pleasant, fine looking farms, with neat, 
cosy farm-houses attached, the prospect varied here and 
there by a wind mill. I will here mention that all the grind- 
ing done at the Cape is by wind power, there being, as yet, 
DO steam or water power employed. 

After riding two or three miles along the beach, the road 
turned off into the interior, running all the way through fine 
farms and vineyards. We were about an hour in going to 
Wynberg, stopping at ^ye stations on our way there. From 
the conductor we learned that we would have two hours in 
which to look about the place before the ti'ain returned ; A. 
and myself, therefore, agreed that we would make the most 
of those two hours. We took our way over a smooth, wide, 
and beautifully shaded road, flanked on either hand by ele- 
gant mansions situated in wide, beautifully laid out grounds. 
We walked slowly, that we might the better enjoy so much 
beauty, filling our souls with deep copious draughts, so that 
our two hours passed by almost like some beautiful dream. 
Perhaps you may think that I am indulging in some such 
ecstasies as are incident to sailors on shore, over rural charms 
and prettily embowered houses ; but I may be excused in 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 107 

this, for the beauties of Wynberg are of no common order. 
We extended our walk a short distance out from the village 
of Wynberg to the Constancia estate where are made the 
celebrated Constancia wines. The vineyard is only a few 
acres in extent, but there, and in no other place, is raised the 
genuine, original Constancia. It is difficult for any one fa- 
miliar with the spirituous taste of most wines, to believe that 
any such rich, syrupy fluids can be produced from the grape 
alone, without the addition of sugar. But such is the fact. 
The grapes are permitted to almost wilt upon the vines be- 
fore they are plucked, and to facilitate this process the leaves 
are thinned from the vines. One accustomed to the mode of 
raising grapes with us would scarcely recognize a Cape of 
Good Hope vineyard. 

At a little distance, he could hardly distinguish it from a 
potato field, the vines not being over three feet high, bunches 
of fresh shoots supported on old knotty, venerable, gray look- 
ing stalks, many of which are as old as the vineyard. This 
is about two hundred years of age, having been planted by 
one of the first governors, and gallantly called after his wife, 
" Constancia." 

Leaving Constancia and Wynberg we took the cars and 
returned to Cape Town. We had agreeable companions on 
this return trip, in the shape of an old English merchant and 
his daughter, a lovely young lady about sixteen or seventeen 
years old. A blunder made in treading upon the old gen- 
tleman's corns introduced us, and long before we reached 
Cape Town, we were quite good friends, and had invitations 
to visit them at their home. 

Since we have been lying here, the ship has been fairly 
thronged with visitors, ladies and gentlemen coming off from 
shore by lighter loads. At one time there were over a hun- 
dred on board, all anxious to see an American man-of-war, 
which, according to their accounts, is quite a curiosity to the 
Cape Town people. There were so many visitors that al- 



108 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

most every one of the crew had some one to whom he was 
" showing the ship." 'Twas laughable to see some almost 
ignorant land lubber, conceited enough to strive to explain 
the managing of a vessel in a storm or the working of the 
battery in action to one who doubtless knew much more about 
the matter than he himself did. But the most laughable in- 
cident of all was the explanation of the rifle gun on the fore- 
castle, given by " Jib Bogue," and how he expatiated upon 
its virtues, to a nicely dressed, intelligent, and fine looking 
English lady. He said, " Madam, dis am de rible gun, what 
carries de comical skell, which kills de men, cuts up de rig- 
gin and, and kicks up de d — 1 generally." To have seen 

the astonishment of the lady and to have heard the roar of 
laughter with which this speech was received would have 
made the most sedate person smile. 

Wednesday evening, November 16th, the officers of the 
Wachusett gave a ball to the Cape Town people, which 
proved to be a very successful, very fine affair. Guns were 
run forward, awnings spread, the quarter-deck hung round 
with flags, and in short, transformed into a very good and 
tastefully decorated ball room. At dark the deck was illumin- 
ated, and before seven o'clock the guests had all arrived and 
the dancing commenced. I cannot speak very highly of the 
band, but the music that they discoursed was much better 
than would be expected from their appearance. There were 
twenty-six ladies present, about the same number of civilians, 
three or four English officers, and a few of the Hartford's, 
beside our own. When the dancing commenced aft, sets 
were also formed among the men forward. All went on 
nicely for a time, but too frequent visits to the decanters set 
out on the wardroom tables and free of access to all, helped 
along by sundry flasks of " Cape smoke," brought off from 
shore, at length began to take effect, and then the " ruxions'' 
commenced. Several not satisfied with dancing forward, 
must go aft to dance with the ladies. Being refused by these 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 109 

a disturbance was made, but they were soon confined, and 
with a few slight exceptions, the ball passed off very quietly 
and very pleasantly, and I think gave perfect satisfaction to 
all. 

Friday, November 10th, another was added to the number 
of those who have bid home and friends "good-bye" forever. 
James Ryan, captain of the forecastle, died that day, after 
a painful and lingering illness. He was buried on shore 
here the following Sunday with military honors. He was a 
thorough seaman, a good shipmate, and well liked by both 
officers and men. He was about thirty years of age, a na- 
tive of New Bedford, Massachusetts, and it is said, leaves no 
family. 

While we were lying at Rio the master-at-arms, and one 
or two others, accused the yeoman to the executive officer of 
having a candle lighted in his room until late one night, and, 
at the same time, the yeoman was drunk, having come off 
from shore about two hours previous. Accordingly he was 
disrated and put on deck as a landsman. After this, he 
grew morose, down-hearted, and, as some would have it, "out 
of his head." One day, when ashore in a boat, he deserted. 
Just before leaving Rio he returned, and in the most pitiable 
plight; barefooted and bareheaded, clothed in rags, half 
starved, and without a cent in his pocket. A few days after 
he came on board, his feet commenced paining him, and 
showing them to an old sailor, who had spent several years 
in Brazil, he was asked where he had been while ashore. 
He answered, " To the mines." The man then told him 
that he had got "jiggers," or chegers, in his feet from going 
barefoot on the sand, and unless they were taken out they 
would multiply indefinitely, and eventually cause his death. 
So to work he went and cut out all that were visible, and so 
continued day after day, until they were all gone. The jig- 
gers bear a striking resemblance to the small maggots some- 
times found in cheese. From that time he suffered almost 



110 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

untold torments, being confined in the brig and sweat-boxes, 
having his head shaved and blistered, and every conceivable 
indignity heaped upon him, alike by officer and man. A day 
or two ago a gentleman came off from shore and inquired for 
him. After a few moments' conversation with him, he went 
to the Captain and by paying the amount that he was in- 
debted to the ship procured his discharge and took him on 
shore ; and I, with a few others, was glad that at last he was 
free from his tormentors. I thought at the time, and have 
since been convinced that the master-at-arms himself lit the 
candle in his room when the yeoman was asleep, so as to get 
him reduced, and get some one of his friends appointed in 
his place. In this undertaking he succeeded but too well. 

I have narrated this circumstance to you, my dear R., in 
order that you may see what men there are in the navy, and 
to what extent the jealousies and envyings of men will some- 
times carry them, trampling under foot every feeling or 
sense of honor, respect, or pity. This was done, too, against 
a ship mate, who ought in these respects to be second only 
to relatives and friends. 

The morning of the same day that the ball took place, 
the U. S. S. Hartford came into port bearing the flag of Rear 
Admiral Henry H. Bell, and now on her way to join the 
Asiatic squadron, over which she is to be flag-ship. I have 
heard that the Admiral is not very much pleased with our 
long stay at Rio and Cape Town, and that we had not joined 
the squadron on the station ere this. His first order was 
that we should be ready for sea in twenty-four hours ; but 
he afterwards extended the time to six days, so that to-mor- 
row we expect to leave here. The Hartford is one of the 
class designated as " second-rates," of something over 1,800 
tons burden, ship-rigged and carrying a battery of twenty- 
one heavy guns. Everything about her looks like a man-of- 
war, a long, low, black hull, a beautiful model, and some- 
thing about her spars truly majestic. I intended to have 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. Ill 

visited her, but had the afternoon watch on visiting day, and 
so could not go very well. 

To-day has been the most lovely one that we have had in 
a long, long time. It has not been without clouds, but what 
there were, were light, airy things which seemed to enhance 
instead of detracting from the beauteousness of the day. A 
day it has been on which a person could sit for hours, watch- 
ing the clouds, and building castles in the air, resigning for a 
time all the cares and anxieties of the present, and in per- 
fect happiness and contentment, residing in those castles 
which his imagination has constructed. It has been said 
" perfect happiness is not to be found in this world," but as 
I sat this afternoon in the gangway, and watched those light, 
fleecy clouds as they passed overhead in their rapid flight, 
meanwhile building a magnificent castle, of which a some 
one was to be the chief garniture, I experienced what I call 
almost perfect happiness. Yes, methinks the happiness I 
then felt might be called " perfect " with more propriety than 
can two-thirds of that which passes undisputed for such. I 
was disturbed in my castle building by the announcement 
that supper was ready, so forthwith I had to descend from 

my lofty elevation to a bowl of coffee and common 

place words and thoughts. I was not a little inclined to be 
provoked at the interruption, and exclaim with Ecclesiastes, 
" Behold, everything is vanity and vexation of spirit." I am 
glad that to-morrow we start again on our way to China. 



112 CHINA AND JAPAN, 



LETTER XII. 

U. S. S. Wachusett, Batavia, Java, ) 
January 26, 1866. ) 

My Dear R. : 

Coffee and spices ! In my childish thoughts the name of 
Java was always associated with coffee, while her sister 
islands were similarly suggestive of spices of various kinds. 
The fact may perhaps be accounted for by the close^^tudy 
which I was wont to bestow upon certain gaily colored labels 
which decorated packages of these articles. 

In mentioning these islands a writer has remarked that 
" Bishop Heber's beautiful missionary hymn has so associ- 
ated the fragrance of spices and poesy with these islands, 
that one feels reluctant to break the bonds of genius which 
have thus bound them together ;" but true it is, the " spicy 
breezes " are wafted only by the poet's imagination. 

My last letter left us at Cape Town. When I went oh 
deck at six bells the following morning, I found that we were 
under way and under steam alone, following the lead of the 
Hartford, steaming out to sea. 

" Through ocean's perils, storms, and unknown waters. 
Speed we to Asia." 

We had to keep slackening our speed to avoid running into 
the Hartford, but as soon as we were clear of the land, stop- 
ped steaming, and made all sail ; then matters changed. She 
carries more than double the amount of sail that we do, her ' 
propeller trices up, and she can sail almost as fast again as 
we can. She lowered her topsails two or three times, for us 
to come up, but a little before dark she hoisted them up, and 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 113 

lowered them for us no raore. The. next morning she was 
out of sight and we have not seen her since. She arrived 
here about fourteen days before we did, and after remain- 
ing about a week, started for Hong Kong, the Admiral hav- 
ing concluded that we were not coming to Batavia. 

Shortly after leaving Cape Town we had our second court- 
martial ; this time, for theft. The court acquitted the pris- 
oner of the charge, and scarcely one in the ship believed 
him to be guilty of the crime of which he was accused, 
although the missing article was found in his bag. Stealing 
is one of the worst crimes that can be committed on board 
ship ; for, where there are so many, in such close connection 
with one another, and with so little room that we can call 
our ow^n, clothes, valuables, and money even are often placed 
within the reach of a would be thief. I have noticed one 
good thing in this respect, in this ship's company, that when 
any person has been detected taking anything not his own, 
let it be ever so trivial, or from whoever taken, one and all 
have made it their province to bring the affair before the 
proper authorities. By them all such acts have been severely 
punished. These stringent measures have been attended by 
the best results, and it is now no unusual thing to see money 
publicly placed in some one's ditty box, and then the box 
left for days unlocked about the decks ; and very seldom is 
a man heard to complain that he has lost anything. 

On this passage T and I had a very narrow escape 

from death. While standing in the gangway and talking to-- 
gether, one of the men who was working aloft at the time, 
carelessly let fall a heavy marline spike, which passed close 
to my face and buried three inches of itself in the deck. 
Scarcely a second before that time, I was standing in that 
exact spot, and had been moved back by the roll of the ship. 
I must confess I was a trifle frightened when I considered 
what a narrow escape I had had, and what would have been 
the consequences had the spike struck me. We can never be 
6* 



114 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

too thankful to Him who holds us in the hollow of his hand, 
and preserves us from the many dangers which constantly 
surround us, and this too, when we so richly deserve his dis- 
pleasure. 

One day the Surgeon knocked one of the little monkeys 
which we got in the Cape Verd's overboard for some mischiev- 
ous prank which it had been playing upon him. It was in- 
teresting to note the expressions of the old sailors at this 
conduct. They consider it a great crime to maltreat any 
animal, thinking that storms, head winds, and everything that 
is bad result from such treatment. So when the monkey 
was thrown overboard that evening, they were loud and 
deep in their imprecations against Dr. King, and prophesied 
a storm before many days. Sure enough, the very next 
night, about midnight, the wind rapidly increased in force, 
and in less than an hour it was blowing quite a gale. This 
lasted seven or eight hours. Fortunately, we took in the 
to'gallant sails, and fore and aft sails, and reefed topsails in 
time, else the consequences might have been quite serious. 
As it was, not much damage was done, only a few rents in 
the sails, ditty-boxes capsized, and the decks flooded a few 
times. This circumstance, of course, strengthened their 
superstitious belief. As I am speaking about sailor's super- 
stitions, I will make mention of one or two other matters 
which have come under my notice. When we were off the 
Cape there was a great number of birds around the ship 
which are called " Cape Pigeons." Several of the officers 
amused themselves by catching these birds with a hook and 
line, a bit of bread being attached, for bait. Several old sai- 
lors stood watching the proceedings, growling and swearing 
about the deed, and prophesying all sorts of evil, that would 
result therefrom. But, at last, when one of the officers pro- 
posed killing some of the pigeons, and stuffing them to pre- 
serve for curiosities, they could contain themselves no longer, 
and went to the "mast" and requested Mr. Philip to put a 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 115 

stop to the proceedings, which he laughingly promised that he 
would do. Nothing will provoke an old sailor quicker than 
to commence to whistle near him. He will tell you that it 
will bring head wind and unfavorable weather. 

But we had some fishing which no one disapproved of, 
and that was in catching porpoises, or sea-hogs as they are 
sometimes called. We caught several on the passage, and 
an agreeable change we found them, after having salt food so 
long. In appearance and flavor their flesh bears a close re- 
semblance to veal. They are so large that one made two 
meals for the whole ship's company. 

The day before Christmas the crew had double rations of 
whatever they wished served out to them, and the cooks were 
busy from morning until night in making preparations for 
the Christmas dinner. After hammocks were piped down, 
they were piled up upon the hatches, and the berth-deck 
brilliantly illuminated. The band were then collected and, 
seated upon the hammocks, they discoursed sweet and feet- 
stirring music to all that were of a dancing turn. This to- 
gether with singing and other sports, was kept up until 
nearly midnight, one and all enjoying themselves "hugely." 
I did not feel very well, and consequently did not join in the 
festivities to any, great extent; still, I enjoyed myself very 
much in looking at the rest. Christmas was made as much 
of a holiday as possible, having no quarters, and no more 
work than was absolutely necessary, with the privilege of 
smoking all day, which is granted only on rare occasions. 
Then the dinner ! It was the best we had tasted for many 
a day, and much better than I thought it was possible to get 
up under the circumstances. There were plumb puddings, 
chicken pies, mince pies, c^kes, and any amount of ale and 
wines which were sent forward from the ward-room. 

This Christmas, however, was far from being a merry one 
to me ; for up forward in the sick bay, swinging in a cot, I 
was tossing restlessly about, with the pains of scarlet fever. 



116 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

Up to this time the holidays had been associated in my mind 
with snow, sleigh rides, and certain frozen ears and noses, 
but this Christmas will ever be remembered in connection 
with sweltering heat, as- the thermometer stood in the neigh- 
borhood of 100° above zero on that day and for many days 
afterwards. During this time the wind entirely died away, 
so that it was almost suffocating on the berth deck. 

It is unpleasant to be sick under the best of circumstances, 
but how much more sad it is thus to be far away from home, 
in a foreign country, or in foreign waters, amongst stran- 
gers, with no one caring whether you live or not ; more than 
that, " I hope the poor fellow will get well, but I am afraid 
he never will;" — a passing remark from some Jack Tar, the 
subject of the remark speedily dropping from his mind. 
Sick at sea ! No one can know the force of those words, 
unless he has had the experience, has been sick on a 
man-of-war, out at sea, where those many little delicacies 
that a sick man naturally craves cannot be obtained, with- 
out the comforting and tender care of mother, sister, or some 
female friend, and surrounded by the discomforts and unpleas- 
antnesses which are hard enough to bear when one is in the 
best of health. But I would not have you think that I was 
neglected or treated ill, for that was by no means the case. 
There was not one of the crew that would not have done 
almost anything to have eased my pain or added to my com- 
fort — more, perhaps, than they would have done for many 
others. The. truth is, a sailor in a little while learns to look 
upon sickness and death with contempt, or utter indiffei'ence, 
and to expect the sickness and death of some near friend as 
a matter of course. I am sure that I have no reason to com- 
plain, for I had as good and ten4er care as could be expected 
under the circumstances ; yesj and far better. It was then 
that I learned the value of the friendship of my associates, 
for they did everything within their power to alleviate my 
sufferings and make me comfortable. Often they sat for 
hours beside my cot and fanned me when I was feverish, or 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 117 

talked and read to me when I was restless. Yes, notwith- 
standing my strong determination to get well, I fear that I 
should not have done so had it not been for the constant and 
devoted care of these two friends. 

From December 28th, 1865, until January 10th, 1866, we 
lay becalmed, the sails flapping idly against the masts, the sea 
as smooth as glass, and the vessel hardly logging a knot in 
twenty-four hours. Occasionally, a little puff would spring 
up, but would not last long. We had beautiful weather, but 
oh ! so tiresome. There we lay, day after day, in the same 
place, with plenty of coal in our bunkers, a smooth sea, 
through which our engines could urge us without impedi- 
ment ; our port only three or four days off! The same daily 
routine : rise at six bells, seven o'clock — breakfast at eight — 
quarters for inspection at two bells, nine o'clock — this lasts 
ten minutes ; then the Doctor prescribes, and every one goes 
to what he has to do, some to duty, and others to reading, 
sleeping, smoking, or walking the deck. There is no further 
break in the day until the master gets an observation of the 
sun at meridian, when he tells us that it is twelve o'clock, and 
what the latitude is, and the men are whistled or piped to 
dinner. Then they read, sleep, and walk again, until four 
o'clock, when they are piped to supper ; after which the same 
routine over again until the drum beats for evening quarters. 
The Doctor does the evening prescribing — we have our ham- 
mocks piped down, and then smoke and spin yarns until 
eight o'clock, which puts out the smoking lamp and lights on 
the berth-deck ; nine o'clock extinguishes those in the steer- 
age, ten those in the ward-room, and the day is done. These, 
with a daily exercise of the divisions at the battery, or with 
small arms, and twice a week general quarters for a grand 
battle exercise, make up the routjne of our existence. This 
is occupation enough — leisure enough — but, as it has been 
aptly expressed, " The occupation is an unvarying form, the 



118 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

leisure, a weary interval of unvaryiag pursuits. No fresh- 
ness, no change, no novelty." 

" Lovely seemed any object that should sweep 
Away the vast, salt, dread, eternal deep." 

There we lay upon its bosom in a calm — the winds lulled, 
the engines and engineers rusting, the occupation of firemen 
and coal-heavers gone. We pity and mourn for everything 
and everybody, but, most of all, we mourn for our pent up 
selves, and grieve that we are not rich enough to refund to 
the National Treasury the cost of the coal which would take 
us into port. 

" Lay aft all the firemen and coal-heavers and hoist the 
smoke-stack !" was almost the first word that I heard passed 
by the boatswain's mates, Friday morning, January 10th. * 

" We are going to get up steam at last," cried out many 
voices as they started up in pleased emotion, from listlessly 
pursuing some occupation, or from dozing, apparently in- 
fused with new life. 

» Early in the forenoon, we sighted a high point of land off 
our starboard bow, which we subsequently discovered to be 
Java Head, the most western extremity of the island. About 
an hour later, we sighted land on our port bow, the most 
southern point of the island of Sumatra. At noon we were 
between these two islands — in the entrance of the straits of 
Sunda. The straits at this point are from sixty to seventy 
miles in width. They kept narrowing gradually as we pro- 
ceeded, until about five o'clock we were off Anjer Point, the 
narrowest part, and there they are about fifteen miles in 
width. Anjer Point has attained a world-wide celebrity, — • 
not on account of any commercial importance, or from the 
size or beauty of the place^ but from the fact that all the 
vessels trading with China, Japan, and the many islands of 
the eastern and southeastern coasts of Asia, pass through 
these straits within sight of the Point, and almost invariably 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 119 

Stop there on their passages to and fro. From there a tele- 
graph extends to Aden, and a list of the vessels sighted at 
Anjer Point is telegraphed to Aden, and from there to Eu- 
rope, and the whole commercial world. When we were off 
there a bumboat came alongside, from which we procured 
some fruits. We did not stop, but proceeded about ten miles 
farther and then came to anchor for the night in a beautiful 
little bay, at the northeastern extremities of the straits. It 
was so dark that night that I was unable to get a good view of 
the surrounding country, and we left there the next morning 
before daylight for Batavia. The distance, about sixty miles, 
was steamed in a little more than six hours, and about noon 
we dropped anchor off Batavia, about three miles from the 
shore — the shallowness of the water preventing our nearer 
approach. It appeared a quiet, lovely spot to us, and there 
were but few vessels at the anchorage. 

As we ran in, however, the harbor became suddenly alive. 
A fleet of canoes, thronged with bronzed Javanese, announced 
their rapid approach to us by the confused clattering of many 
voices. The boats were ticklish, wabbling affairs, but man- 
aged with great skill and dexterity. From the boats our 
glance was turned to the chattering, scolding, jabbering, 
quarrelling human beings on board of them. 

Their costume is attractive, and has been thus described : 
at Galle a little book has been published called " A Guide 
to Galle," in which, alluding to a portion of these countries, 
it says : " The rainy season extends from December to May, 
and from May to December it is wet." And so, in describ- 
ing the costume of our new acquaintances, one might say, 
that " from the head to the hips there are no clothes, and 
from the hips to the heels, about the same." Their prin- 
cipal article of clothing is a white or bright colored " come- 
boy " — a shawl folded as a petticoat about the waist, and 
worn alike by the more respectable of both sexes. The 
women, however, wear a short jacket dropping over the 



120 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

breasts, leaving the skin bare between that and the " come- 
boy." The lords of the lower class indulge in no such waste 
of clothing, but are content with that amount of clothing 
which is a bare sufficiency. All have black teeth and bloody 
mouths, from the use of the betel-nut mixed with lime and 
pepper leaves. From the bumboats which came alongside, 
we got an abundance of excellent oranges, bananas, pineap- 
ples, cocoanuts, and a great variety of other fruits peculiar 
to a tropical clime. 

Well, I have been speaking about some of the people and 
usages of Batavia, without getting into the place. I will 
commence with the harbor ; very wide and spacious, water 
shallow a long distance out from shore, and scarcely any- 
where going beyond fifteen fathoms. An old Dutch line of 
battle ship is the only man-of-war in the harbor except the 
Wachusett. Some few steamers, and fifty or sixty merchant 
vessels, make up the rest of the shipping. Seaward is quite a 
large island, named Onrust, on which stands the navy-yard, 
coal wharves, dry-dock, and a pretty little village, all guarded 
by a heavy Dutch frigate, — Java belonging to the Dutch. 

The town — where is it ? Tall cjDCoa-nut trees, here, and 
there, and everywhere, waving their graceful branches in the 
breeze, and promising to sea-parched throats the sweet re- 
freshment of the sparkling water of the young fruit — a prom- 
ise' which is fully kept — are the most that we can see. Some 
three miles distant lies tiie shore, and there stands the tall 
forn3 of a light-house, at the entrance of the canal which leads 
up to the city — some two miles farther. Hidden behind 
these groves are the houses, churches, shops, hotels, and 
clean, quiet streets, of a population of one hundred and 
thirty thousand — Dutch, Germans, English, Americans, Chi- 
nese, Javanese — and a mixture of all — Protestant, Catholic, 
Mohammedan, and Buddhist. 

Batavia is the seat of Government of the Dutch settle- 
ments in the East Indies. It is of great importance in the 



AND A VOYAGE THITHEK. 121 

commercial world, being the emporium in which all the mer- 
chandise of the Dutch company in India is deposited ; so 
that here you may find the various spices from the Molucca 
or Spice Islands ; gold dust and diamonds from Borneo ; cof- 
fee and pepper from Celebes and Sumatra ; bees- wax and 
dye-woods from Timor ; tin from Banca, etc. But you must 
accompany me in a ramble ashore if you would learn more 
about the place. I have been several times, and have always 
enjoyed myself very much. We should liked to have had 
you with us when I went about a week ago, accompanied by 
a friend. The wind was favorable, so that the men were 
spared the labor of pulling the boat until we arrived within 
about a mile from the city, where a beautiful cocoa-nut 
grove shut off the wind, and near the edge of which grove 
a second light house stands. The canal, wh'ch I mentioned 
as leading from the harbor to the city, is about one hun- 
dred feet wide and deep enough to float large schooners. 
From the second light-house to the city, it is completely 
thronged with boats and small craft of almost every Eastern 
nation. Chinese junks with their confused mass of red 
painted wood- work, with great goggle eyes painted on their 
bows. East India boats, close by a half European half na- 
tive built schooner on which floats a red flag with a white 
elephant painted on it — the emblem of Siam, whilst every 
intervening nook is filled with the small boats of the natives. 
Landing, we found ourselves in a high-walled enclosure 
containing about one hundred acres — the government grounds. 
Within are the store-houses, forts, barracks, a hotel, ship- 
chandlery, and a few private residences. Several carriages 
were in waiting near the landing, and we had barely left the 
boat before some native had us by the button-hole, persuad- 
ing us to take one. This of course we did, as no one thinks 
of going any distance on foot in Batavia. Could you but 
have seen us, you, with your notions of traveling, would 
have thought that we were supporting considerable style for 



122 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

persons in our position — a comfortable two-seated carriage, 
drawn by two small, but spirited little ponies, with a driver, 
footman, and interpreter, as attendants — but the whole estab- 
lishment, with attendants, cost us only three guilders — one dol- 
lar and twenty cents — for the whole day. After leaving the 
government grounds, we found ourselves in a small park, from 
which branched off two streets. We took the one on the right, 
and a few minutes' drive brought us to the native quarter. 
Here we alighted, bidding the driver to wait for us, think- 
ing that we could the better pursue our explorations on foot. 
A short ramble about showed us that the streets were very 
narrow, and very dirty ; the houses, for the most part small, 
filthy, and very close together ; and the whole densely popu- 
lated. In the shops, the principal articles for sale are, fancy 
straw baskets and boxes, coarse articles of lacquered-ware, 
grass-cloths, &c. The better portion is occupied by Chinese, 
and these for the most part are money-changers, bankers, 
and merchants. Reentering our carriage and returning to 
the park, we took the road to the left, over a smooth wide 
street, shaded on either hand by elm, locust, and other trees. 
And how very different is this quarter of the city from that 
we had just left ! Here are elegant mansions, situated in the 
most beautiful grounds, and fairly embowered with trees, — 
sufficiently removed from each other to satisfy one whether 
he prefer the city or country. And this street extends nearly 
five miles. On it are some seven or eight hotels, and 
two or three churches. Running parallel with the prin- 
cipal streets, are canals, on which can be seen the magnifi- 
cently decorated barge of the wealthy, floating side by side 
with the rude boat of the native. Fruits of every kind pe- 
culiar to this clime, can be seen, growing not only in private 
gardens, but also by the roadside. 

Not to visit the Botanical and Zoological Gardens, is not 
to visit Batavia. Fully impressed with the truth, and with 
the importance of such a visit, after we had had dinner, we 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 123 

directed the driver to turn the horses' heads thitherward. 
The gardens are some two miles from the upper extremity 
of the city, but it is certainly one of the most enchanting 
drives in the world. Our ponies were uncommonly smart, 
the roads smooth and level, and we reclined in the carriage in 
the greatest ease and comfort imaginable, enjoying the ride, 
enjoying the fruits which we obtained, and above all, enjoying 
the beautiful scenery, which is unrivaled in this part of the 
world. 

An hour's drive brought us to the Gardens. At the en- 
trance are directions for visitors, in Dutch, German, French, 
Spanish, and English. The admission fee, one guilder each, 
we paid and then entered. The Gardens comprise about one 
hundred acres, beautifully laid out in charming walks and 
drives, and containing specimens of the different species of 
plants, trees, shrubs, birds, and animals, peculiar to this part 
of the world. 

After entering, one first passes through the portion devoted 
to the various plants and flowers with the many shrubs sur- 
rounding the beds, and lining the walks. To the right of 
this are the cages containing lions, tigers, panthers, leopards^ 
and other wild beasts, while still further on are the cages of 
the feathered tribe, from the tiny sparrow to the huge bird 
called the East India Ostrich. Some birds of paradise at- 
tracted our attention, and drew forth much admiration by 
their gorgeous plumage. Near the center of the gardens is 
a large, magnificent building containing but one principal 
room, magnificently, yet withal tastefully decorated, and 
chiefly used as a banqueting hall. Beyond this building is 
the shed and yard of the elephant. With him we amused 
ourselves a while, by giving him fruits. Close by is the col- 
lection of monkeys, every variety and of every size, from 
the wee little thing no larger than a rat, to the large, fierce, 
ugly baboon as large as a good sized calf. A lovely little 
grotto, which a number of the little ones had, interested and 
amused us very much. Near these were the parrots, hun- 



124 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

dreds of them of every variety of size, form, and hue. Taste- 
fully interspersed over all the grounds lining the walks and 
drives, are trees of every species. Back of all is a wild and 
picturesque glen, the more noticeable there, because there are 
scarcely any other irregularities in the surface for a long dis- 
tance around. What a glorious place this would make for 
excursions and pic-nic parties ! After spending about three 
hours in examining the many interesting objects we picked 
some flowers and returned, much pleased with our visit to 
the gardens, and well assured in our own minds that if we 
had not visited them we had not seen Batavia. 

Jiir^few mornings ago we noticed the flag on the American 
bark George Green hoisted with the Union down — the sig- 
nal of distress. A few minutes later a boat came to us from 
her reporting that the crew refused to " turn to." The sec- 
ond cutter with an armed crew, Mr. Grover, Mr. Kelly, Cor- 
poral A and myself with our side arms were sent aboard 

of her. We found the crew in the forecastle, and from one 
of them I learned the cause of their dissatisfaction. The 
Captain, with whom they shipped, died just before the vessel 
arrived here, and then the first mate assumed command. He 
said that the Captain was a kind, humane man, and beloved 
by all the crew ; but that the mate, the present captain, was 
cruel and severe, and hated as much as the former was be- 
loved. For this reason they wanted to be paid off and dis- 
charged, which the mate refuses to do. They were all called 
aft to muster, and, after speaking a few words to them, Mr. 
Grover asked if they would " turn to." Fifteen out of the 
crew of seventeen refused, and were taken by us aboard the 
Wachusett. Three of them have shipped with us, and the 
remainder have been sent aboard the Dutch frigate, there to 
await the disposal of the American consul. 

Monday, January 22d, we weighed anchor and steamed up 
to the island of Onrust, and hauled alongside the coal wharf. 
The next day while the crew were engaged in coaling ship, 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 125 

A and I went out for a stroll about the island, or islands, 

there being two of them. The one on which is the coal 
wharf is small, being only about an eighth of a mile in cir- 
cumference. A wide channel, which is crossed by a rope 
ferry, intervenes between this and Onrust. Onrust is a 
lovely island about two miles in circumference, and is 
for the most part covered with groves of orange, banana, 
and cocoa-nut trees. The inhabitants of the latter did 
not give a good name to the crew of the Hartford, saying 
that when she was up there for coal, some of the crew 
went ashore, broke into a store, and destroyed and stole goods 
to the value of several hundred dollars. I have no doubt 
that it was all done by three or four unprincipled scamps 
who had neither any respect for themselves, nor for the good 
name of their shipmates. And thus it is, three or four such 
individuals will frequently, by their lawless deeds, injure the 
reputation of as many hundreds of honest, honorable indi- 
viduals, with whom they are associated. Our search along 
the beach for shells was rewarded by finding several rare 
and curious specimens. After having taken in over two 
hundred tons of coal in about five hours, we returned to our 
old anchorage off Batavia, that afternoon. 

Yesterday the crew were busily employed in getting in 
stores, both public and private, and to-morrow we expect to 
start for China. On some accounts I am sorry that we 
are to leave Batavia so soon, for our stay here has been a 
very pleasant one. Although the weather has been rather 
too warm for comfort, there is ever a good, cool, sea-breeze, 
which enables us to support the heat without experiencing 
much suffering. Fruits of all kinds are abundant, good, and 
very cheap. But then, on the other hand, I am anxious to 
get to China and once more be in communication with friends 
near and dear, which I have left behind, and from whom I 
have not heard in so long a time. 



126 CHINA AND JAPAN, 



LETTER XIII. 

>. S. Wachusett, ]\: 
Philippine Isles, Feb. 27, 1866. j" 

My Dear E. : 

We left Batavia the following morning, after the date of 
my last letter, as I expected. We steamed along all that day 
and night, and following day, on a northerly course, the 
next night coming to anchor at the southern entrance of the 
Straits of Banca. The next morning at day-break we got 
under way and steamed through the Straits. In many places 
these are very narrow, the island of Banca on our starboard 
beam, and the island of Sumatra on our port, both being 
plainly visible. Islands of various sizes stud the Straits 
throughout, and on the whole our passage through them was 
a very pleasant one. January 31st, we crossed the line, but 
there was no such excitement over it as there was when we 
crossed it before. That same day we saw a water-spout 
some nine or ten miles away from us. In the distance it 
looked like a huge tunnel, with the nose downwards. It ap- 
proached nearer and nearer us, and when about a mile dis- 
tant, we fired a shot from the howitzer, and it instantly broke. 
For five minutes, the water fell upon us from it, as if we had 
been in a severe thunder storm. I tasted of the water, and 
was surprised to find that it was fresh, for I had always sup- 
posed that the water of which they were formed was drawn 
up from the sea. We saw another water-spout later in the 
evening, but it did not approach within six or seven miles of 
us. 

Three days later we sighted the island of Borneo, along 
whose shores we sailed for three days, at times so close that 



AND A VOTAGE THITHER. 127 

we could observe human beings walking along the beach. 
In all that time we did not see the least sign of cultivation, 
nothing but high mountains and dense forests. Our object 
in sailing so close to the land was to find the Dutch island 
of Amboyna which we knew to be somewhere along the 
coast, but did not know the exact locality. Monday evening, 
February 5th, we thought that we had discovered it, and 
accordingly came to anchor some little distance off from the 
shore ; but the next morning when we got under way, and 
approached nearer we discovered our mistake. Nevertheless, 
we came to anchor there, and some thoughts were entertained 
of having a boat expedition to the island. After lying about 
half an hour we again got under way, and steamed toward 
the mainland. Just before noon we again dropped anchor, 
in as secure and as lovely a little bay as I ever saw. 

Not a boat nor vessel of any kind was in sight, nor on 
shore was there the least sign of civilization or inhabitant 
The surrounding country was mountainous and covered with 
forests and a thick growth of underbrush, everything wild 
and picturesque in the extreme. In the southeastern cor- 
ner, a small river emptied itself into the harbor, from which, 
about half an hour after we anchored, three boats filled with 
natives, came into view and approached the ship, making 
signs that they were friendly. When aboat two boats' lengths 
distant, they stopped, evidently viewing us with a great deal 
of wonder and curiosity, and mingled wit^ unmistakable 
signs of fear. After considerable coaxing we finally induced 
them to come alongside. They were all Malays, clothed in 
the garb of the lower class, showing that with them the fash- 
ions had not changed since the times of our first parents. 
They had a few green cocoa-nuts in their boats which they 
readily exchanged fw hard bread and tobacco. Everything 
about the ship and ourselves was viewed with a great deal 
of wonder and curiosity by them, and I doubt very much if 
they had ever seen a ship or an European before. One of 



128 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

our crew, a Malay, tried to converse with them, but was 
unable, as they spoke a different dialect from his. After re- 
maining on board a short time, they took their departure. 

Sometime in the afternoon the second cutter and gig, with 
armed crews, several officers, and a number of the men — in 
which I was included — went ashore on an exploring expedi- 
tion, and with some faint hopes of being able to find and 
bring on board some of the "wild men" to add to our stock 
of curiosities. "We penetrated some two or three miles into 
the interior, but without finding the remotest signs of inhab- 
itant more than the three or four huts near the beach, where 
resided those natives that visited us. By signs and by draw- 
ing a rude representation of an ox on the sand, Captain 
Townsend tried to make them understand that he would like 
to purchase one from them ; but without making them com- 
prehend what he wanted. Birds, somewhat resembling rob- 
ins, were numerous, and not in the least shy of us. We shot 
several of them with our carbines. We picked up a few 
curious stones and shells on the beach, and returned to the 
ship taking off with us a little puppy, more resembling a bear 
than a dog, which we named " Borneo," after the name of the 
island. We remained there that night, getting under way at 
daylight the following morning. 

That day we had our first target practice with small arms. 
The target was suspended from the fore yard arm, and we 
stood on the poop to fire at it. The distance was only about 
one hundred yards, but we found it a very difficult target to 
hit, on account of its swaying to and fro, and on account of 
the rolling and pitching of the ship. Not one out of every 
six shots fired hit it. The prize of two and a half dollars 
each, repaid two of us for dirtying our muskets. 

Sunday we sighted some islands belonging to the Philip- 
pine Group, and during that and the following day we had a 
number of them in sight. On some, we saw several active 
volcanoes, which are very numerous in this group. Monday 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 129 

morning, we sighted the island of Luzon on which stands 
Manilla, our destination. In the evening we came to anchor 
just inside the entrance of Manilla Bay. This Bay is very 
large, being some ten or twelve miles in length by seven or 
eight in width, and would afford a secure anchorage for all 
the navies in the world. At each side of the entrance is a 
large island which narrows it down to less than a mile in 
width. At daylight we left our anchorage and after an hour's 
steaming we again came to anchor about a mile from the 
town. During the day the usual business of an arrival in 
port was gone through with, such as saluting the flag of the 
nation to which the port belongs, engaging a bumboat-man- 
compradore, washermen, &c. 

Luzon, with the greater portion of the Philippine Group, 
belongs to Spain, whose domains here are said to extend over 
50,000 square miles. Manilla, the capital of the Spanish 
Possessions, is situated at the northeastern extremity of the 
bay of the same name, on the southwestern side of the island 
of Luzon. It is a very ancient city, and contains a popula- 
tian of 140,000 inhabitants, according to the census of 1860. 
A large proportion of them are Malays. The remainder 
are, for the most part, Spaniards, with a sprinkling of Portu- 
guese, Dutch, English, and Americans. The town is subject 
to earthquakes and was nearly destroyed by one three years 
ago. 

But come, let us take a ramble on shore and examine 
everything of interest about the town. As we put foot on 
shore at the substantial and convenient jetty, we find our- 
selves in the midst of a picturesque crowd — Malays, Hin, 
doos. Chinamen, Europeans ; a mingling of bright colors, 
white and crimson predominating. The first noticed are the 
Chinamen, with all the head shaved but the crown and the 
hair from this depending in a long plait, or queue, to the 
ground, or wound in circles about the head. White or red 
striped petticoats or savongs fell from the waists of some 
7 



130 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

and a few more bright colored jackets, but many encumbered 
with no more clothing than would meet the demands of de- 
cency. We must not walk, so we go with a bright-eyed 
little native boy, (who speaks good English, and whom we 
have engaged as a guide,) to the stables and procure a car- 
riage for which we pay two pesos, (two dollars,) for all day. 
First we will have a ride through the town for the sake o^ 
the ride, and then we will examine the many places of in- 
terest more minutely. The streets are wide and smooth, the 
carriage easy and commodious, the ponies smart and lively, 
the sights varied and interesting, and you cannot fail of en- 
joying the ride. 

The houses are none of them very large or elegant in ap- 
pearance, with the exception of a few in the eastern suburbs 
of the town, where the more wealthy and influential reside. 
There may be seen some elegant mansions situated in beau- 
tiful grounds. The houses of the main portion of the city 
are seldom more than one and one-half stories high, are 
built of brick, and have tiled roofs. About one-third of the 
town is in ruins, destroyed by the recent earthquake ; but 
the inhabitants are now fast re-building it. The larger build- 
ings suffered most, and consequently nearly all the churches 
were destroyed. Only one was left entirely uninjured. Two 
others escaped with only a small portion of the walls demol- 
ished. The falling of the bell from the steeple of one of 
them killed about twenty-five of those who had taken refuge 
in the church during the earthquake. " There," said the 
guide to me, pointing to a heap of ruins, " is where the hos- 
pital stood, which buried in its fall over five hundred of its 
inmates." The loss of life during the time of the earth- 
quake is variously estimated at from two to ten thousand. 
A more definite number will probably never be known. 

The town is divided into two unequal portions by a small 
river which runs through it from north to south. This is 
spanned by a fine bridge, which has a draw in it to allow 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 131 

vessels to pass up and down the river. That portion which 
is situated on the left bank is almost entirely included in the 
walls of a large fort, which is upwards of two miles in cir- 
cumference. Within these walls are situated the residences 
and places of business of the greater portion of the European 
residents at Manilla, also the government buildings, the hos- 
pitals, principal churches, etc. Among the chief celebrities 
of Manilla are its cigar manufactories. To visit these a pass 
is required from the Governor. Fortunately, a number of 
us found sufficient favor in the eyes of a Spanish gentleman 
for him to interest himself in our behalf and procure the re- 
quired pass, and with us paid a visit to the principal manu- 
factory. There we saw every stage in the process of the 
manufacture of a cigar, from the dressing of the leaf, to the 
packing in boxes ready for exportation. Upwards of five 
thousand persons, of every age, sex, color, and nationality, 
are employed in these manufactories, besides there being a 
great variety of machinery made use of. The cigars here 
manufactured are in every respect equal to the best Havan- 
nas, and can be bought for $8.00 per thousand. 

Among other places of interest, I paid a visit to the only 
Church which was left entirely uninjured by the earthquake. 
It was built upwards of two hundred years ago, and has suc- 
cessfully withstood the many earthquakes by which the city 
has since been visited. It is very rich in massive adornments 
of gold, silver, and precious stones. To the rear of the 
Church and attached to it, is a fine picture-gallery, containing 
many valuable fine old paintings by Michael Angelo and by 
two or three others of the first masters. An old monk 
shewed me about, and our only means of communication was 
by Latin. With what knowledge I had of the language, and 
with the assistance of a dictionary, aided by certain impres- 
sive shrugs and signs, we made out to understand each other 
very well. Upon leaving I made a present to the Church 
and received the old monk's blessing. 



132 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

% 

In front of this walled town is a fine water battery, and to 
the left is " La Plaza," a beautifully shaded park", with 
charming walks and drives, where on pleasant evenings can 
be seen the wealth, beauty, and fashion of Manilla, enjoying 
themselves a Vespagnole. 

Now let us cross over the bridge and enter the native 
quarter of the city. We find dirty alley-ways for streets, 
which every few steps are constantly changing in direction, — 
the whole town laid out in the greatest possible irregularity. 
The houses are for the most part constructed by making a 
floor elevated some three or four feet from the ground, sup- 
ported on stakes driven into the ground, and then a semicir- 
cular covering made of bamboo reeds and thatched with 
mats, straw, or leaves. Others have only the earth beaten 
hard for a floor. These huts have each but one room, which 
serves for kitchen, dining-room, bed-room, and all, and where 
reside from five to thirty persons. Greater filth, and more 
squalid misery, accompanied by fewer redeeming traits, are 
seldom to be found. 

I expatiated somewhat largely upon the virtues of the 
coffee which is to be obtained in Rio Janeiro ; and I might 
do the same upon the chocolate which is to be procured in 
Manilla. I have drank chocolate many times, but I never 
could say that I really loved it until I drank it here, and I 
never go ashore without making two or three calls at the 
stand of an old Spanish lady who knows how to make deli- 
cious chocolate. 

Thursday, February 22d, we " dressed ship " and fired a 
salute of twenty-one guns at noon, in honor of Washington's 
birth-day. Out of courtesy to us, nearly all of the vessels 
in the harbor also "dressed ship." 

My collection of curiosities has received a valuable addition 
in the many rare and curious shells which I have obtained 
here. I have also procured a few cloths, and fancy articles 
in grass, and a number of new coins. 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 133 

The past few days have been spent by the crew in " coal- 
ing ship and taking in stores," and to-morrow, I hear, we are 
to leave this place and not anchor again until we reach China. 
A few days ago we invalided one of our men home in a clip- 
per bound for New York. The Captain has been on shore 
sick nearly all the time that we have been here, and for a 
time, it was rumored that he would not recover ; but this 
morning he came on board, rejoicing us all by his compara- 
tively healthy appearance. 

A little after daylight this morning three Malays were 
garrotted on shore, for the murder of a policeman a few days 
ago. The place of execution was in front of the fort and in 
full view of the ship. The victims were seated upon a scaf- 
fold erected for the purpose, and chained to their seats. A 
leathern thong was passed around the neck of each one, and 
then twisted tight until the breathing was stopped and death 
ensued. As is usual upon such occasions, the execution was 
witnessed by many thousand spectators. Garroting is a fa- 
vorite mode of execution with the Spaniards. The execu- 
tioner has it in his power to end the sufferings of his victim 
by an almost instantaneous twist of the thong, or he may 
prolong the sufferings by tightening and loosening the twist. 
I am told that it is customary with those who are thus to 
suffer death, to bribe the executioner to release them from 
suffering as speedily as possible. 



134 CHINA AND JAPAN, 



LETTER XIV. 

U. S. S. Wachusett, Hong Kong, China, > 
March 5, 1866. | 

Mt Dear R.: 

At last we have arrived on the station; have reached 
China — just one year from the day when we steamed down 
Boston Harbor, bidding home, friends, and country " good- 
bye " for a time, and started upon this long cruise. It has 
been a year full of interest and event to me ; more so than 
any similar period of my life. In this year I have traveled 
over twenty thousand miles, visited twelve different ports, 
seen the manners and customs of many different people, and 
here the close finds me seventeen thousand miles from home 
by the nearest sailable route, among strangers, without an 
old friend or acquaintance near me, or even a good oppor- 
tunity of hearing from those whom I have left behind. 

About eight o'clock on Friday morning, January 28th, we 
heard the welcome words, " All hands up anchor," and in 
less than fifteen minutes the anchor was up and we steaming 
down Manilla Bay. One and all worked with a will then, 
anxious to get to Hong Kong as soon as possible ; for there 
awaited us our letters of one year's accumulation, with 
all the incidents of joy and sorrow which, in a changing 
world, might in that time occur. These furnished the prin- 
cipal theme of conversation during the entire passage, and 
were seldom absent from our thoughts. With what anxieties, 
hopes, and fears, did we look forward to the time when we 
should arrive at Hong Kong, obtain our letters, and receive 
news from our friends at home ! But I will not anticipate. 
Our passage was a remarkably pleasant one, course north- 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 135 

westerly; winds favorable, but light; sea smooth, and we 
steaming along pleasantly at the rate of seven or eight knots 
per hour. 

At nine o'clock yesterday morning, we sighted the high, 
mountainous island of Hong Kong, with the numerous small, 
jagged, rocky islands near it ; and at four o'clock in the after- 
noon we entered the northeastern passage to the harbor of 
Hong Kong. After proceeding about half a mile in this 
passage we came to anchor in as quiet and lovely, as it was 
secure, bight, some five or six miles distant from the city. 

Our reason for anchoring, some asserted, was because it 
was wanted to clean and polish up the vessel, so as to present 
a fine appearance when we should go into port ; whilst oth- 
ers would have it, that it was done so as to be exactly one 
year in reaching the station from the day of our departure 
from the States. For my part, I think that both of the ex- 
planations are correct. To guard against a surprise, or any 
attack by the many pirates which infest these waters, the 
lookouts went on last night with loaded carbines, and twenty 
rounds of ammunition. 

Early this morning it commenced raining, and has contin- 
ued to rain steadily all day. Yet, notwithstanding this, all 
hands were called early, and great preparations made for 
going into port. At eight o'clock we weighed anchor, and 
after steaming about fifteen minutes, the city of Hong Kong, 
and the harbor with its immense amount of shipping and 
many thousand junks and sampans, burst upon our view. 
Half an hour's steaming brought us along side the Hartford, 
but when we signaled to know if we should come to anchor, 
a negative was returned ; the Admiral seemingly displeased 
at our long delay in getting on the station. An intense ex- 
citement was created in the ship when it became rumored 
that we w^ere not to be permitted to come to anchor, but had 
to go out for a week's cruise as a punishment for our long 
delay. Captain Townsend, however, with his customary 



136 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

nonchalance, ordered his gig to be called away and manned, 
and said that he would go on board the Hartford and see 
what could be done with the Admiral. His mission was suc- 
cessful, for in a few minutes the signal was made for us to 
come to anchor, which we did, and moored ship. 

Our first contact with the Chinese introduced us to their 
indomitable energy, perseverance, and industry. An enter- 
prising Chinese pilot had picked us up far out at sea, and an- 
other had been on the lookout for us since the arrival of the 
Hartford, about a month ago, and as we ran up to our anchor- 
age we encountered a Chinese invasion. A fleet of boats, 
propelled by mat sails, by sculls and oars, bore down upon us. 
The principal object of competition was to get the office of 
compradore — the privilege of supplying the various messes, — 
and of being the ship's bumboat. Then there were tailors, 
shoemakers, painters, washermen and washerwomen, peddlars, 
besides aspirants for the honorable position of " fast boat " — 
the boat which, being the home and dwelling-place of the 
proprietor and family — wives and children — is employed in- 
stead of the ship's boats in taking us to and from the shore. 

As one has so aptly described an arrival at Hong Kong, 
" on came the competing fleet, regardless, apparently, of be- 
ing run down by us. We were not then familiar with the 
dexterity with which these boats are managed — being sud- 
denly turned and their course changed just as they appear to 
be running upon an object. Stimulated by the prize before 
them and confident of their skill, they paid no attention to 
the orders to keep off", if, indeed, these could be heard above 
the clamor and screeching of their own tin-toned throats. 
Some of the greater tacticians had small American ensigns 
flying, as if they thought that by so doing they would be 
more favorably noticed by us. 

"Up alongside the ship they dashed, and despite their 
skill, not without some damages to their bamboo spars. Men 
and women clambered up the ship's sides, and thrust forth 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 137 

bundles of certificates from their former patrons in our ser- 
vice, and at the same time assuring us that he or she was 
No. 1, in their respective vocations." 

A portion of these boats, those usually employed to carry 
passengers, are European-built gigs, have canvass sails, and 
are also propelled by from two to six oars. Of this class is 
" our fast boat." The sampans — Chinese-built boats — are 
rude, clumsy-looking affairs. In shape they are triangular, 
with the apex cut off, and that at the bow. The stern is the 
most elevated. About two-thirds of the after portion is 
roofed over with two or three matting semicircles. They are 
propelled by sculls. In these, families of ten or twelve are 
sometimes seen. 

Judging by looks, size, or dress, a newly arrived foreigner 
can barely distinguish the males from the females ; both look 
and dress so nearly alike. Wide, loose, nankeen pants and 
sacks, sometimes of a dark, and sometimes of a light-blue 
color, the bottoms of the pants encased by the stockings reach- 
ing nearly to the knees, and secured by fancy-colored garters ; 
the shoes, thick-soled, flat-bottomed, turning up a little at the 
toes, with tops made of silk or velvet. In stature the Chi- 
nese are comparatively short, with thick-set bodies ; complex- 
ion, of a light-yellowish cast; features, closely resembling 
those of a negro; hair and eyes black as jet, and teeth re- 
markably regular and white. The males have the head 
shaven, except a circular spot on the crown, about three 
inches in diameter, where the hair is allowed to grow long. 
This is plaited, and with the addition of some dark-colored 
silk, the " tail," or queue, reaches nearly as low as the heels. 
On their heads they wear close fitting skull-caps, made of 
eight sections, with a colored knot on the top. The women 
do not shave the head, but wear the hair done up on a 
frame somewhat resembling the handle of a large plane, at 
the back of the head, and adorned with pins, tassels^ and 
other ornaments. 
7* 



138 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

This is the dress of the middle class — merchants, tailors, 
and those of similar occupations. The lower class — boat- 
men and coolies, or laborers, have a deep, dark bronzed com- 
plexion, seldom wear any covering on their heads or feet, 
and wear clothes made of some coarse cotton material. 

Further particulars of their dress, manners, and customs? 
I will give you, as soon as they are brought to my notice. 
A few words now about the Harbor and City of Hong Kong, 
as far as I have been able to see for myself, and learn from 
reliable sources. 

The harbor is an irregular, oblong sheet of water, some 
six or seven miles in length, and from one to four in width, 
lying between the island of Hong Kong and the mainland- 
It is said to afford a very secure anchorage for shipping, ex- 
cept during the typhoon season, when vessels are compelled 
to anchor for safety in the large bight on the western side 
of the harbor, and which from this fact is called " Typhoon 
Bay." 

The harbor is at present filled with men-of-war, steamers, 
and merchant vessels of almost every nationality, impressing 
one with the great commercial importance of the city. Be- 
sides these, there are many thousand Chinese junks and 
smaller craft. 

The island of Hong Kong, or Hinkeang, (i. e.. The Fra- 
grant Streams,) is nine miles long, eight broad, and twenty- 
six in circumference, presenting an exceedingly uneven sur- 
face, consisting for the most part of ranges of barren hills, 
with narrow intervals, and a little level beach land. The 
highest peak, Victoria Mt., is 1,825 feet high. Probably 
not one-twentieth part of the island is available for agricul- 
tural purposes. It was ceded to the Crown of England in 
1842. The town of Victoria lies on the north side of the 
island. On the south side are the government buildings and 
dry-dock, the whole called Aberdeen. 

" The city of Victoria may be said to extend from Happy 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 139 

Valley on the extreme east, to West Point on the extreme 
west, a winding road of about three miles in length, the 
Queen's Road, skirting the bay and winding along the foot 
of the mountains washed by the waters of the bay. The 
mass of the city lies within the central two miles of this 
space, straggling settlements linking in the remainder. In- 
deed, nearly a mile beyond the eastern point I have named, 
separated from the rest of the city, are the extensive build- 
ings of the great commercial firm of Jardine & Co., which 
seems to be an independent, though allied sovereignty, firing 
its morning and evening gun, keeping its own police force, 
and running an individual line of steamers to the East In- 
dies. After the city begins to leave the Queen's Road with 
any lateral aspirations, there is nothing for it but to climb the 
mountain's side ; and so it does, with angular, dark -green, 
granite-knobbed mountain spurs, along which wind terraced 
roads, fringed with shrubbery and gardens. High up on 
these elevations stand the pretentious palaces of the success- 
ful merchants and high ofiicials. Also, standing out to catch 
the breeze, with the union jack flying in its front, is the yel- 
low-washed castle of the Governor ; the residence of the 
Bishop of Victoria, and the Cathedral, with fortifications and 
military quarters, lying to the right and front. Over all, 
from an elevation of eighteen hundred and twenty-five feet, 
looks down Victoria peak, on city and bay, man-of war and 
merchant vessel, sampan, lorcha, and junk; and on its sum- 
mit is the signal-station." There, also, is mounted a gun, 
the firing of which announces that a mail-steamer has been 
sighted. On the opposite, or Kowloon shore, stand the mili- 
tary store-houses, prisons, and hospitals. When the city of 
Victoria is lighted up at night, it presents a beautiful sight, 
and is said to bear a striking resemblance to Gibraltar. 

Through the courtesy of the house of Thomas Hunt & 
Co., the accumulated letters of a year's absence from home 
were sent on board soon after we anchored, and then the 



140 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

hopes, fears, and anxieties of that time were to be realized or 
dispelled. Only the later portion of our mail, however, was 
received, the earlier having gone to Macao, and not yet sent 
down. From that which we did receive we could gather 
what we were most anxious to learn — the welfare of our 
friends at home. I was rejoiced to ascertain that my own 
were all in good health, as were most of my old acquaintan- 
ces. Some few births, marriages, and deaths, were made 
mention of, but none of them of special interest with the ex- 
ception of a little brother added to the family circle at home. 
What a glorious feast I had in perusing the bundle of letters 
which fell to my share ! And how happy I felt after I had 
read them all, and had every doubt, fear, and anxiety dis- 
pelled, and my best hopes realized ! I had not felt so light- 
some and joyous for many a day. One cannot fully appre- 
ciate the worth of good letters from friends near and dear, 
unless he has been similarly situated. Like myself, the 
greater portion of the crew had good news from their friends; 
and many were the smiling faces seen, and many a laugh 
was heard, as the last letter was read, and the continued good 
health and prosperity of those left behind was there men- 
tioned, with the assurance that the absent ones were still 
remembered in love and friendship. Verily, " Good news 
doeth good like a medicine," and " As water to a thirsty soul, 
so is good news from a far country." We then realized the 
truth and force of these two passages of Scripture. All the 
letters, however, did not bring good tidings, and there were 
many sad hearts and tearful faces, as some read of the loss 
of friends, near and dear friends, whom they would never 
behold again in this life. Thus is it ever in this world; 
while some are enjoying every pleasure and blessing which 
earth can afford, there are others whose lot it is to endure the 
bitter pangs of sorrow and adversity. 



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AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 141 



LETTER XY. 

II. S. S. Wachusett, Macao, China, ) 
April 2, 1866. \ 

My Dear R. : 

We have been nearly a month in China, and begin to be 
tolerably familiar with the manners, customs, and excentrici- 
ties of the Chinese ; and yet scarcely a day passes without 
revealing some new and interesting trait, or something to 
excite our wonder and curiosity. 

You see w^e have shifted our anchorage since I wrote you 
last. We remained at Hong Kong only eleven days, and on 
Thursday,' March loth, we got under way, and started for 
Macao. As we were obliged to follow the lead of the Hart- 
ford, we were seven hours in steaming the distance of forty- 
five miles, and came to anchor about two miles from the shore, 
the water being too shallow to admit of our approaching any 
nearer. We found the Store Ship " Relief," from which we 
are to take stores, in the harbor, and she will soon start for 
home. An English gunboat, a few coolie ships and merchant 
vessels, tv^o or three river steamers, and a number of Chi- 
nese junks and smaller craft are the only vessels beside our 
own in the harbor. 

There is a charming repose, heightened by contrast, in 
such a quiet old town as Macao to one who, but a few hours 
before left the fussy, upstart pretensions of Hong Kong, 
where everybody is trying to be somebody, and nobody be- 
lieves anybody else to be anybody. The natural site of 
Macao is picturesque. The city climbs up the sides and 
through the ravines of a group of hills, the summits of which 
are crowned with old castles and convents. Conspicuous 



142 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

amongst the ruins of Macao on the hill-tops, is the front wall 
of an old church, standing out sharp and clear upon its ele- 
vation. Only this front wall remains, its rugged edges and 
window-openings cushioned with moss and wild foliage which 
time has planted. Such old towns as Macao, made up of 
massive old houses, surrounded hj grounds darkened by- 
trees, and tangled in shrubbery, which, with the crabbed in- 
dependence of age has a will of its own above all trimmings 
or trainings, are very pleasant to me. The inhabitants pre- 
sent the picturesque in the social scene, as the crumbling 
tower, touched by the setting sun does in the natural. 

" The stone faced mole, or pray a, which curves in front of 
the city, was in former days the scene of bustling commerce, 
but is now the pleasant, quiet promenade of those who have 
nothing better to do. Besides this Portuguese and foreign 
Macao, there is a dense mass of a Chinese town." 

As a sea-port for Canton before Hong Kong sprang up, 
Macao had a day of commercial prosperity. For over three 
hundred years it has been a foreign settlement. The general 
impression is that it was given to the Portuguese as a re- 
ward for their having suppressed piracy on the coast ; but 
there is no evidence of there ever having been any relin- 
quishment of authority on the part of the (!!!hinese. The 
Portuguese claim seems to be that of possession, at first, tol- 
erated ; then, permitted, and now, acknowledged, in fact if 
not in nanje. 

Provisions at Macao are abundant and good, the climate 
healthful and pleasant, and it is the chosen retreat of business 
men, merchants of Hong Kong, and the refuge of those 
whose fortunes have been broken. These various elements 
unite to make up an agreeable society, and their sole occu- 
pation and amusement is social intercourse. The combined 
population, Portuguese, Foreign, Chinese, Malay, and mixed, 
is variously estimated at from twenty-five to forty thousand. 

A few days after our arrival here we had general liberty 
given us. The usage is to keep the men on board ship for 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 143 

months while the officers, officers' servants and a few privi- 
leged ones are permitted to go ashore in every port. This 
tantalizing and provoking contrast, increases the discontent 
arising from so long a confinement in their floating prison ; 
and when they are permitted they go ashore in large gangs* 
for a twenty-four or forty-eight hours' debauch. The idea of 
those in authority is that a sailor will have this debauch, and, 
in their ignorance of man nature, they overlook the fact 
that it is by their treatment, that he has been brought to this 
condition. 

When our legislators produced the act to " provide for the 
more efficient discipline of the navy," in their simplicity they 
assumed some natural human rights to exist on board a man- 
of-war, for they say : " Section 3. And be it further enacted, 
that it shall be the duty of commanders of any vessels in 
the navy, in granting temporary leave of absence and liberty 
on shore, to exercise carefully a discrimination in favor of 
the faithful and obedient ;" and among the penalties is " de- 
privation of liberty on shore in foreign stations." Instead 
of this there ought to be a law enacted that in no case, ex- 
cept one of absolute necessity, should men be deprived of 
liberty at stated periods of time. 

The first touch of the foot to the shore after such an 
estrangement is an intoxication. All have felt this after a 
long sea voyage ; then to this is added the excitement of 
numbers, and the tendency to outrage which arises from the 
physical power of numbers turned loose for indulgence in a 
weak community. Now, instead of this management of the 
crew, suppose that when in port, such as behaved themselves 
were permitted to go ashore in small parties daily, as they 
could be spared from their duties. The frequency of visit- 
ing the shore would lessen the excitement, the small num- 
bers would diminish the probabilities of disturbance, and in 
every respect, the most beneficial results to all would be ob- 
tained.- Some commanders have tried this method, and have 
always found it to be attended with good benefit. 



144 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

Our " fast boat " was used here to convey the liberty men 
on shore instead of the ship's boats ; but when I went ashore 
with a number of others a few days ago, I found that our 
large boat could not approach the land, the remainder of the 
passage being made in small sampans. Quite a novelty are 
these sampans — Tanka boats they are called — as are also 
the girls who, I was about to say, man them ; and as these 
girls really do the hard work of the men, I might let the 
nautical term remain. These picturesque, white teethed, 
laughing mouthed, bandana-kerchiefed nymphs live on the 
water and make their living by landing passengers from the 
steamers which ply between Macao, Hong Kong, and Can- 
ton, and from the large junks, and in rowing to the bathing- 
places the business men and dissipated wretches who retreat 
to Macao for a few weeks to recruit. The Tanka boat people 
are said to be of an unknown race, distinct from Tartar or 
Chinese. They have their own customs ; the females never 
contract their feet, and they marry among themselves. Where 
the men live and how, I have not been able to ascertain. 
Three pretty, girls won our favor so much that we made use 
of their services and gave in return, a shilling each — more 
than five times the regular fare. Such is the influence of 
beauty, found here among the Chinese as well as at home 
among the highest. 

Landing on the praya, and passing up a narrow alley-way 
towards the center of the town, we soon came to a large 
stone cathedral which bore evidences of great antiquity in all 
its surroundings. Tliis stands on one of the eminences upon 
which the city is built. As we landed the matin bells sounded, 
and called forth the stanza from one of our number. 

" The convent bells were ringing, 
But mournfully and slow ; 
In the gray square turret swinging, 
With a deep sound, to and fro. 
Heavily to the heart they go ! 

Hark ! the hymn is singing ." 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 145 

As we approached the Cathedral the sweet tones of the 
low chant fell upon our ears, inviting us in. "We entered, 
and after crossing ourselves with holy water, took seats. 
The congregation numbering some three hundred Portu- 
guese, foreigners, Chinese, and mixed, were on their knees 
and the choir was chanting our Saviour's Passion — it being 
Annunciation Day. The service was very finely and very 
impressively conducted, but as it was in the Portuguese tongue 
it was intelligible to none of us. The building was like any 
other catholic cathedral, but it was very rich in gold and 
silver adornments and in fine old paintings. 

Leaving the Cathedral, we walked throu^ the Chinese 
quarter, where we were presented many things of interest, 
and shown a great variety of races, and some of their occu- 
pations and habits. At stands by the sides of the streets, or 
in little shops, the mechanics were busily at work, as well as 
numerous braziers, tinmen, and blacksmiths. On every hand 
the barbers were to be seen shaving, shampooing, plaiting 
queues, and cleaning out ears, noses, and eyes. They use 
small triangular razors, the apex fastened to the handle. We 
seated ourselves in a small corner shop to get " barbered." 
"Without using any lather, the barber commenced to shave 
us. We remonstrated but were told that lather did no good, 
that its use would make the hair coarse and stiff, and was 
never employed by the learned. The beard was removed 
almost in a twinkling, and then with little hoe-shaped spoons 
the barber examined our nose, ears, and eyes, removing little 
bits of dirt and wax that had been accumulating there for 
ages. We thought that with this act our torments would 
cease, but in this we were doomed to disappointment. After 
twisting our necks about in every conceivable direction to all 
our cries of " Hold on !" the barber replying " me no hurt 
you," he next fell to beating our backs, breasts, and sides, 
until we began to think that we were to be pounded to a 
jelly, and forced him to desist. The last operation, I have 



146 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

been told, is performed to drive away bodily pains. I am 
sure that I am unable to see the virtue of it, and know that 
I did not recover from the effects of that "barbering" for 
many days. The price for the whole was only about two 
cents, but I would not undergo the torments of the operation 
the second time for twice as many dollars. 

Well, leaving this we have the market shops. The pork- 
dealer is dealing out his slender cutlets, the fruiter his pines, 
bananas, oranges^^and other fruit. Next to these are masses 
of green salad, cabbage, pears, beans, radishes, etc. There 
are dried fish and fresh, and ducks split open and pressed 
flat, as if they had been under heavy weights for a long time. 

An excellent description of the dress of the Chinese is 
given by Surgeon Wood, in n ii ratin<2; what he saw in a ram- 
ble along the streets of a Chinese city. 

" The laboring coolies with their burden-sticks across their 
shoulders, fill the street*?, all dressed in much uniformity, 
with broad-brimmed, sharp-peaked hats made of palm leaves, 
blue cotton shirts or frocks coming down to their hips, trow- 
sers of the same, reaching half-down their legs, with either 
bare or straw-sandaled feet. The women wear precisely the 
same costume except that the outer garment hangs loose, 
and the trowsers reach the feet. Even among the lower 
class a few small footed women are seen tottering along like 
children on short stilts ; but the most of them are barefoot 
or wear a shoe with a sole an inch thick and shaped like a 
rocker skate. Mothers are seen tottering along the streets, 
with their infants bound to their backs by a square piece of 
cloth. When you would meet the better class of Chinese 
another style of costume varies the streets. Black satin or 
velvet embossed shoes, with thick white soles, white leggings 
reaching to the knees, and meeting blue silk breeches which 
are fastened by silk garters, or the breeches may descend the 
leg fitting it closely and secured by ribbons. The outside 
garment is either a figured silk or woolen robe, or a long 







^TF^EET ^ARBBR. 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 147 

robe loose and flowing, figured or trimmed with furs. Al- 
though there is a general costume, it admits of as much 
variety as may be seen on some of our principal streets in 
the States. Rain or shine, cloudy or clear in the daytime, 
every Chinaman has an umbrella and at night a lantern." 
During the entire day the streets are thronged with people, 
both afoot and in sedan-chairs, traveling confectionery and 
cake shops. Cobblers in old shoes, workers in leather, 
menders of broken China, with their implements of trade, 
are amon^ the moving occupants of the streets, while coolies 
are seen carrying their heavy burdens and bales to and fro. 

The Chinese have attained great eminence in the manufac- 
ture of silk and cotton cloths. They are also noted for their 
skill in the carving of ivory, tortoise-shell, mother of pearl, 
and other ornamental articles, and also for the taste they dis- 
play in the arts of embroidery, dyeing, and the making of 
artificial flowers and papers of fine tissue. 

Leaving the Chinese and entering the foreign quarter of 
the city, one finds himself in a comparatively desolate place, 
with its solemn stillness, and decaying old mansions, churches, 
and theatres. The streets are very narrow and uneven, ex- 
cept the one which winds around the praya. No wheeled 
vehicle is to be seen, all the transporting being done by 
coolies, and the traveling done on foot, on horseback, or in 
palanquins carried on the backs of coolies. These palan- 
quins are square, upright boxes, about four feet high and two 
square, trimmed with silk or green baize, and with a seat on 
the inside. It is supported by two poles, some ten or twelve 
feet in length, slightly curving from the middle to the ex- 
tremities where they are joined by a cross-bar. I took a 
short ride in one of them, but the jolting, unsteady motion pro- 
duced by the bearers was not very agreeable to me. Those, 
however, that have become accustomed to this method of 
traveling, say that it is a very agreeable one. 

In the evening I went out from my lodgings for a stroll 



148 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

around the Chinese quarter. As I approached it I heard the 
discordant noise of the gongs, and tom-toms, and the screech- 
ing of the Chinese fiddles. Following these sounds until 
they became louder and more intolerable, I found myself 
among a motley crowd, over whose faces glared the lights 
from a covered platform in an open space before the princi- 
pal temple. It was q Chinese theatre, supported by a sub- 
scription of the Celestials, for public performances. All that 
I could make of it was this confounding noise of all imag- 
inable discordant instruments, a crowd of people moving about 
the stage in various Chinese costumes, including silken royal 
robes — with masked faces, and in the pause of the instru- 
ments screeching to each other in voices no less discordant. 
A Chinese play often lasts for months, commencing at the 
births of the principal characters — which takes place pub- 
licly upon the stage — following every important event of 
their lives, and terminating with their deaths, which also 
takes place upon the stage. A stay of some five or ten 
minutes was enough for me. 

Macao is celebrated as being the spot where were spent 
the last days of Camoens, the writer of the only great poem 
which the Portuguese have produced — the refuge of the pov- 
erty stricken bard, and the locality of the lonely cavern 
where he nursed his muse. A victim, he was, of thwarted 
first love, was born noble, and in his early life enjoyed nearly 
every felicity which birth, wealth, and talent could bestow. 
Early in middle life, with shattered fortunes and dearest 
hopes dashed to the ground, he left his native country, came 
to Macao, sustained his existence by the begging of his negro 
slave, and ended his life in a hospital. Since his death — as 
is the case generally— the Portuguese have discovered his 
great talents, worth, and merits, and done much to honor his 
memory. The cave of Camoens is in the grounds of a pri- 
vate residence. It has been so perverted by art as to lose 
all that is romantic or picturesque. 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 149 

Associated with the fame of Camoens is that of Chinnerj, 
who died at Macao, aUke celebrated with his pen and pen- 
cil. He was an eccentric genius, who loved the productions 
of his talent better than fame or money, and parting with 
them for neither. 

A terrible incident has associated itself with our stay at 
Macao. A few days ago, a Spanish bark left here for Cuba 
with a load of coolie s, " humanity swapping black skins for 
yellow ones." Soon after leaving the harbor, the coolies 
rose, murdered the crew, and then after plundering the ves- 
sel of everything that was valuable, abandoned her. The 
vessel was discovered this morning by a merchantman bound 
into Macao, drifting about. Thinking that something must 
be the matter on board, they sent a boat to ascertain. They 
found the officers and crew lying about the decks where they 
had fallen, and everything that was of value removed from 
the ship. 



150 CHINA AND JAPAN, 



LETTER XVI, 

U, S. S. Wachusett, Canton, China, ) 
April 13, 1866. j 

My Dear R. : 

Tuesday, April 3d, we left Macao, and started for Canton, 
the Hartford taking the lead with bumboat and compradore's 
boats in tow, and we following with the Relief and our boats. 
As soon as we were clear of the mouth of the harbor we all 
made sail and stopped steaming, proceeding thus until we ar- 
rived at the mouth of the Canton river. 

The Chu-kiang or Pearl river, more commonly called the 
Canton river, is formed by the union of three rivers, the 
West, North, and East rivers, the two first of which unite 
west of the city of Canton, and the East river joins them at 
Whampoa. Beside these there are numerous other smaller 
rivers, creeks, and canals which pour in their waters. Af- 
ter a course of about five hundred miles it passes out to sea 
through several mouths, the best known of which is the Boca 
Tigress. The delta into which the East, West, and North 
rivers fall might be called a gulf, if the islands in it did not 
occupy so much of the area. This, together with the coun- 
try drained by these rivers and their tributaries, is said to 
form the most fertile portion of the province of Canton, and 
this is one of the most extensive estuaries of any river in the 
world — being a rough triangle about one hundred miles on 
each side. The Bay of Lintin — so called from an island of 
the same name where the opium and store-ships formerly an- 
cliored — is the largest sheet of water within the estuary, and 
lies below the principal mouth of the river called Fu Nun, 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 151 

i. e., Boca Tigris, or Bogue. From Macao to the Bogue, we 
came up Lintin Bay in a northeasterly direction, a distance 
of about forty miles. Few rivers can be more completely 
protected than the Pearl. At the Bogue — through which we 
passed — it is very narrow, and on each side are high hills, 
admirable positions for defenses. 

The ruins of three Chinese forts — two on the left bank, and 
one on the right, are visible. They were all powerful with 
their guns against their own shipping, but of little avail 
against the power and skill of their enemies during the late 
war. Some ten or twelve miles farther up the river, on the 
left bank, we saw the ruins of another fort, while on the op- 
posite bank, on a hill back from the river, solitary and alone 
stood an ancient pagoda. 

Just before reaching Whampao — about thirty miles from 
the Bogue — there is a sharp bend in the river, and our course, 
which hitherto had been northerly, was changed to the west- 
ward, continuing thus until we reached Canton, some twelve 
or fifteen miles farther on. There the river contains many 
islands, the small ones of Whampoa, French, and Danes, and 
the large one of Honan. At the lower extremity of Dane's 
island we parted company with the Hartford, she drawing too 
much water to proceed up to Canton, and so going up the 
Junk river, or passage to Whampoa, while we proceeded up 
the Whampoa to the city. On the Junk river about midway 
between Whampoa and Canton are the Barrier forts, reduced 
by the Americans in 1856. 

Our way up the river presented us with the interest of va- 
ried scenery. The waters, reddish yellow in color, were roll- 
ing, flowing around and between rocky islands, some of them 
clothed in green. The banks were a succession of lofty 
mountains, hills with intervening valleys, dotted with Chinese 
villages. 'Tis strange that any one of observation should 
have spoken of these river borders as uninteresting or thinly 
populated. Every cove has its populous town or village, and 



152 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

where there is a fertile spot on the hill-side there life is 
planted. 

Some of the green hill-sides are sprinkled with large-sized 
white semicircles. These are the Chinese graves. They 
have been spoken of as resembling a large old fashioned, 
oval-backed sleigh, high behind, and low in front. There 
are two semicircular or horse-shoe shaped enclosures of 
masonry, one within the other. The outer one is three or 
four feet high at the back, and some ten feet in diameter. 

After passing the Bogue, the hills recede, and the river is 
lined with a series of paddy fields, in some places so low as 
to require an embankment to prevent them from being over- 
flowed. By means of gates in these embankments the fields 
can be flooded when desired. When the banks of the river 
are higher the irrigation of these fields has to be done by 
hand, and some of the methods employed are quite curious, 
and interesting to observe. Pumps worked by treadmills 
are the most common, but occasionally two will be seen with 
a bucket to either side of which a cord is attached, by means 
of which they lower the buckets into the water, and then by 
suddenly tightening them by pulling in opposite directions, 
the water is thrown to a considerable distance. Their ap- 
paratus for fishing, as seen located along the river's banks, or 
in bows of boats, is quite a novelty. Nets attached to bam- 
boo frames, and then fastened to the end of a long pole, 
which rests upon an upright frame, somewhat after the style 
of an old fashioned well-sweep are principally employed. 
In using, the end to which the net is attached is lowered down 
into the water where it is shallow, and then after remaining 
there a short time, it is raised by means of a cord attached 
to the other end of the pole. We saw several successful 
fishermen with from one to a dozen fish, caught at one time. 
The banks along the wide delta of the river are frequented 
by immense flocks of wild geese, duck, teal, and other wild 
fowl. 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 153 

The most animated scene, however, is the river itself, as 
one approaches the city. The stream is fairly thronged with 
ships, steamers, and junks lying at anchor. The mass of 
them lie between the city and a small island about a mile 
and a half below it, on which stands a small circular fort 
called the "Bird's Nest," to which it bears a striking resemb- 
lance on account of the concave form of its interior. Some 
of the junks are enormous masses of timber, and almost 
defy description. The bottom is a large, square scow upon 
which are built sides of heavy plank. The bow end of each 
side is rounded off like a sled, but all the square bow is left 
open, as it is said, to the winds, waves, and water-gods. 
Here lies the anchor usually made entirely of wood, with 
one or two flukes, and almost as heavy as iron. In the sides 
are openings to take in the cargo, which are closed by doors, 
fitting into grooves water-tight. The rudder is a heavy mass 
of timber, seven or eight feet square, and is placed in a wide 
opening in the stern. Although they are usually bright 
with paint outside, they are ever filthy and dirty within. 
The stern is a confused mingling of gods and dragons in 
white, green, yellow or other bright colored paints. 

Every junk has its own joss-house, where a light, by which 
to make offerings to their gods is kept constantly burning. 

The stern is built up into platforms of cabins, and three 
or four heavy, naked sticks are the masts. Triangular sails 
made of thin strips of bamboo are used. 

Lying near these are a number of armed junks, extraor- 
dinary looking vessels, with all sorts of cannon projecting 
from their sides. Closer in shore are the canal boats, long 
and roofed over, and their sails protected from the weather 
by varnished or painted matting. Then there are the smaller 
boats, tiny, graceful canoes, managed with almost wonderful 
dexterity, and the Tanka passenger boats, roofed over with 
wattled straw matting, and made water-tight by paint, the 
back closed by a wooden partition, containing a window, and 



154 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

the front having a bamboo screen which can be removed at 
pleasure. Sometimes instead of the matting coverings there 
is substituted a small wooden house with green blinds, mak- 
ing a decided improvement. The numerous varieties of boats 
to be seen here would take a week's writing to describe, for 
they are of every variety of form, size and color, (but those 
that I have mentioned are the most prominent varieties,) 
from the tiny canoe to the huge junk, and from the wretched 
dugout of the beggar to the floating palace of the mandarin. 
Then there are market boats, confectionery shops, and, in 
short, almost every vocation carried on upon the water that 
there is upon the land. It is estimated that there are sev- 
enty-six thousand boats in and about Canton, with an esti- 
mated population of five hundred thousand, who are born, 
live, and die upon the river and are buried in its waters. 
At almost any hour of the day, dead bodies may be seen 
floating down the river, and instances are recorded of vessels 
being obliged to clear the dead bodies away from their bows 
before they could proceed up the river. 

On the right bank of the river and almost hidden by the . 
forest of masts, lies the old city of Rams -K wan gtung- Can- 
ton, associated in the minds of old ladies and merchants with 
teas and silks, and of all juveniles with fire-crackers, and 
Christmas. For a city so renowned, it makes but little show 
in approaching it, and one would never imagine that it con- 
tained over one million and a quarter inhabitants within its 
seven miles of wall, over the tops of which its low, tiled 
roofed houses are just to be seen. 

In the western suburbs of the city are the " Factories," 
the name given to the only spot where, formerly, foreigners 
were allowed to reside. They occupy a river frontage of 
seven or eight hundred feet. In front of them, on the river 
side, is a wide, park-like street, containing many fine trees, 
and affording a pleasant promenade for the foreign residents. 
As we rounded the point just above the Bird-Nest, we saw 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 155 

them all out for their evening promenade, and as I stood on 
the forecastle watching them, home was brought more forci- 
bly to my thoughts than by the sight of any place previously 
visited. From that moment I took a great liking to Canton. 
It was about five o'clock when we dropped anchor opposite 
these Factories, about one hundred and fifty yards from 
shore. 

The Factories were destroyed by the flames of war in the 
attack on the city in 1856, and since then have been rebuilt, 
much after the old plan, but on a more extensive scale. They 
are built of brick, stuccoed, with granite foundations. Some 
of them are three stories high, but the most of them are only 
two. Within a park-like enclosure, near the middle of the 
town, stands the pretty chapel of the Episcopal church. Be- 
sides the foreign residences and their hongs — store-houses 
and ware-houses — there is quite an extensive Chinese town, 
included under the general name of " Factories." 

The following Friday the Admiral and staff came up in 
his barge, and remained several days on board us, so that for 
a time we were flag-ship. 

Our stay here has been characterized by almost incessant 
rain-storms, there having been scarcely a single pleasant day 
since we arrived. I would have preferred having a fine day 
for my ramble and tour of sight-seeing on shore, but after 
waiting a week in vain, and hearing that we were to remain 
here but a day or two longer, I concluded it was best to go 
while there was an opportunity. Accordingly, one rainy 
morning, a number of us started. Travelers at home are 
constantly annoyed by the ferocious importunities, and deaf- 
ening cries with which hackmen assail them. All this is 
scarcely equal to the Tanka girls of Canton. These girls 
do all the boating on the river — such as carrying passengers 
and messages between the shipping and shore. Their boats, 
roofed over with matting, are kept scrupulously neat and 
clean, not a speck of dirt visible anywhere, and everything 



156 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

in its proper place. Order and system are necessary to 
this neatness, as the boat is the permanent dwelling of its 
three or four inmates— their kitchen, dining-room, and bed- 
chamber. 

I will now give you the appearance of the inmates as seen 
by me on my way to the shore ; two young women and two 
little girls. The women wore loose Chinese trowsers and 
short frocks of dark blue silk, with heavy ear-rings, anklets, 
and bracelets of a pearl -colored stone or of silver. The 
young ones were uncommonly good-looking, with cheerful 
faces framed in bright-colored handkerchiefs thrown over 
their heads and fastened under the chin. In the merry ani- 
mation with which they urged, and -finally persuaded, me to 
employ their boat, they displayed beautifully regular and 
white teeth. 

At the landing I was joined by a friend, and together we 
proceeded to the American Consul's, persuaded his compra- 
dore to procure a guide for us, and then set out upon our 
ramble about Canton. Our first visit was to the western 
suburbs of the city, the principal streets of which are " Old 
China " and " New China " streets, and the one which is, as 
its name implies, "Curiosity" street. The latter is by far 
the most fascinating to a newly-arrived European. In the 
shops — scarcely more than boxes — what tempting wonders 
meet the eye ! All the elaborate carvings and curious work- 
ings of ivory, sandal wood, tortoise-shell, mother-of-pearl, 
ebony cabinets and tablets, curious bronzes, brightly-painted 
porcelain, jetty lacquer-ware — so smooth and so bright as to 
reflect everything around like so many mirrors ; work-boxes 
and tables, chess-men and chess-tables, and toys of almost 
every conceivable kind ! Some of the carvings seem almost 
the work of a magician. Ivory balls, one in the other, to the 
number of seven or nine, all exquisitely carved, we could 
not believe were cut out of one solid piece, and not cunningly 
introduced by some imperceptible opening, until we had vis- 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 157 

ited the shops where carving was done, and seen that origi- 
nally thej were but one piece, and cut from the various 
apertures which the balls contained, until one after another 
was dislodged and turned, and then carved like the first. 
The skill of the Chinese in carving is only equaled by the 
rapidity with which the work is performed. There were 
little ivory and sandal-wood boxes, scarcely six inches in 
length, the carving of which took many days' labor, and yet 
they could be bought for from one to five dollars. 

There were other little, gloomy shops, where the passer- 
by could see scarcely anything to attract his attention, 
more than that everything, as about ihe other shops, was 
scrupulously neat and clean. Respectable old Chinamen, as 
neat and tidy as their shops, sat behind the counters as if 
they had nothing to do, nor wished for anything. These, the 
guide told us, were the silk merchants, and that they were 
accustomed to fill orders for from fifty to one hundred thou- 
sand dollars worth of silks. Upon entering and enquiring 
for these articles, chests were opened, and rolls of elegant 
silks, plain, figured, and embroidered, of nearly every hue 
and pattern, were displayed. Lacquered boxes, too, would 
lie opened, containing elegant crape shawls. Any number 
of these were taken out for us to look at and examine, and 
then folded and put back again with as much neatness as if 
they had not been disturbed. Although we kept the mer- 
chant busy for an hour or more in unrolling and unpacking, 
and then left with purchasing only a few articles, we were 
cliin chinned away with as much politeness as if we had 
purchased a cargo. 

The manufacture of silk has long been established among 
the Celestials. Many years figo, when the people of Europe 
were going about with naked bodies, the very lowest of the 
Chinese were clothed in silks. They are still celebrated for 
the abundance of their silks, as well as for their variety and 
beauty, equaling any European manufactories, and in crapes, 



158 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

excelling them. The Chinese are a well-clothed nation. 
They are as frequently seen clothed in silks and satins, as 
Europeans are in woolens. 

An hour or so spent in viewing the many wonders in the 
shops, along the street, finally brought us to the walls of the 
city. The suburbs approach so close to the walls, that we 
would not have noticed them, had it not been for the long, 
low archway, underneath which we passed in entering the 
southeastern gate of the city, and the thick, heavy, iron rib- 
bed gates or doors by which it is closed. The foundations of 
the city walls are of sandstone, and the upper part of brick. 
They are about twenty feet thick and from twenty-five to 
forty feet high, having an esplanade on the inside and path- 
ways leading to the ramparts. The part of Canton inclosed 
by wails is about six miles in circumference, having a parti- 
tion wall running east and west, which divides it into two 
unequal parts ; the southern and smaller of which is called 
New Town, and the other Old City. There are twelve outer 
gates, four in the partition wall, and two water gates, through 
which boats pass from east to west across New City. A 
ditch once encompassed the walls but it is now dry on the 
northern side. On the other three, and within the city it, 
together with most of the canals, are filled by the tide, and 
all present a revolting mass of filth at the bottoms, when the 
retiring waters expose them. The gates of the city are all 
shut at night and a guard is constantly stationed at them to 
preserve order. Among the names of the gates are, Great 
Peace Gate, Eternal Rest Gate, Bamboo Wicket Gate, Five 
Genii Gate, &c. 

After entering the gate, we crossed the greater extent of 
New City from west to east, and then passing through one 
of the gates in the partition wall, we traversed the Old City 
from south to north, visiting the principal places of interest 
on our way. A little after noon, we stood on the high ground 
at the northern part of the city where the English planted 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 159 

their batteries after scaling the walls. The appearance of 
the city and its surroundings as viewed from that elevation 
was very interesting, and as I stood there enjoying the view, 
I thought of you and how much you would enjoy the pros- 
pect, if you could have been with me. It was one vast ex- 
panse of reddish tiled roofs, relieved by a few tall trees and 
interspersed by pairs of high, red poles, used for flag-staffs, 
to point out the residence of some official, public building or 
Joss temple. To the north were the White Cloud Hills at 
the foot of which the city stands. The river, hoAvever, is the 
prominent feature in the landscape, with its myriads of boats 
of all sizes, forms, and colors, some stationary, others moving, 
and all resounding v/ith the mingled hum of laborers, sail- 
ors, musicians, marketers, children and boatmen pursuing 
their several sports and occupations. A small i'i]and in the 
river on which was the fort called Dutch Folly, or Sea 
Pearl, by the Chinese, with its fanciful buildings, and beauti- 
ful trees, with the quietude reigning over it, contrasts agreea- 
bly w^ith the liveliness of the waters around. The hills to 
the north rise twelve hundred feet above the river, their 
sides covered with graves and tombs, the Necropolis of this 
vast city. On the points nearest the town are the ruins of 
three or four forts. 

The streets of the city are very narrow, scarcely more 
than six or eight feet in width, rudely flagged, underneath 
which are the sewers which are washed out by the tides of the 
river. Considering the enormous masses of people crowding 
these alleys, they are kept much cleaner than I should think 
possible. We heard continually behind us, as we passed 
through them, the cries of coolies bearing sedan chairs or 
heavy burdens, supported on sticks across their shoulders* 
The streets are not wide enough for the coolies bearing these 
burdens to pass without the foot passengers giving way, and 
as they proceed at a rapid pace, half trot, they clear their way 
of all obstacles, as I learned to my bitter cost, being nearly 



160 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

knocked down two or three times with the end of their poles. 
The houses are built of wood or brick, with tiled roofs. The 
fronts of them present a curious a,ppearance with their many 
projecting curiously carved roofs and cornices. The long vista 
of these narrow alley-ways presents a very gay and animated 
appearance. The shop signs, about one foot wide by four or 
five feet in length, are suspended vertically by the sides of 
the doors. They are of bright vermilion or jet black colors, 
finely varnished, and lettered in gold. Besides these, sus- 
pended over the streets from lines or bamboo poles stretching 
from the tops of the houses on one side to those on the other, 
are various gay banners, flags, and cloths. The apothecary 
shops, with their ornamental labeled jars, and the hat-stores, 
with their plumed and ornamented mandarin hats, also pre- 
sent a gay appearance. In Canton, as is said to be the case 
in most large Chinese cities, those following different occupa- 
tions confine themselves to different streets, thus shoemakers 
and their shops are to be seen on one street, tailors and their 
shops on another, and so on. The number of the streets is 
estimated to be over six hundred. Among their names are 
Dragon street. Martial Dragon street. Pearl street, Golden 
Flower street, New Green Pea street, Physic street, and 
Spectacle street. There are four prisons in the city, all of 
them large establishments. All the capital offences of the 
province are brought to Canton for trial, and this makes it 
necessary to provide spacious accommodations. The execu- 
tion-ground is a small yard near the southern gate of the city, 
between it and the river. There had been an execution of a 
number of pirates a day or two previous, and their heads 
were exposed in a rack near by the block on which they had 
been beheaded. Suspended on a post was a placard relating 
the circumstances attending the affair, in Chinese characters, 
which the guide translated for us. 

After leaving the city, we crossed over the river to the 
Honan side, on which are located several European build- 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. ] 61 

ings, and a large number of Chinese. A little farther down 
is a large settlement of Parsees. After a short ramble there, 
visiting the more prominent curiosity-shops, and temples, 
commonly known as the Honan Joss-House, about dark we 
returned to the ship. 

I have been thus particular and minute in my description 
of Canton and its surroundings, because I am told its main 
points and features are common to most Chinese walled cities, 
so that, hereafter, as I visit and make mention of other places, 
I shall only speak of such additions and exceptions as may 
be brought to my notice, without wearying you with a repe- 
tition of the main features, which are the same in all. 

It is only of late years that foreigners have been allowed 
within the walls of Canton, and now, even, women are pro- 
hibited from entering its gates. Only a short time ago, a 
lady, more curious and more venturesome than the others, 
went within the walls clothed in male attire. She was dis- 
covered, and would have been taken to prison, and doubtless 
suffered death, had not an influential gentleman been passing 
at the time and rescued her. In the whole time that we 
were within the walls we did not see a single European, a 
European article, nor a Chinaman with whom we could con- 
verse excepting the guide. 

Canton has hitherto been known as the most truculent city 
of all China. Our principal object in coming here was to 
request an interview with the governor-general of the two 
quarantine provinces, in order to satisfy his own eyes that 
the United States have re-established their naval squadron on 
that coast, though in peace and good will towards the Chinese, 
who had honorably maintained their neutrality during the late 
rebellion in our own country. I have been informed that 
upon the visit of our admiral and captain to His Excellency 
a few days ago, he manifested the best disposition toward our 
country and countrymen. 

A few days after their visit the governor sent word to us 
8* 



162 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

that lie would "visit the admiral on board of the Wachusett." 
Accordingly every preparation was made to receive him with 
all due honors and attentions. The ship was clothed in her 
cleanest and brightest dress, as were also the officers and 
crew. An hour or more before his arrival an official came 
bearing complimentary cards, as is their custom. 

"The civilization of the Chinese," it has been well re- 
marked, "is shown by their courtesy and complaisance to one 
another. In no other heathen country do we see so much at- 
tention paid to ceremony, so many compliments exchanged, 
or such polish in intercourse with one another. The poorest 
or meanest will seldom permit a stranger to pass their door 
without inviting him to enter; and if he acquiesces, the pipe 
and cup of tea is immediately offered him, nor does the mas- 
ter of the house presume to be seated until after the stranger 
has been." 

The governor's approach was announced by the beating of 
gongs and cymbals, and in a few minutes his barge — a large, 
long boat, with a wooden house built upon it, bright with 
paint, and decorated with pictures of dragons and gods, with 
his flag flying from a staff in the stern — came in sight, pro- 
pelled by long poles and oars. Arriving alongside, he was 
received by the admiral and other officers in uniform, and by 
the Guard with presented arms ; and, as soon as his barge 
could drop astern, a salute of seventeen guns was thundered 
forth. He is a large middle-aged man, and the most intelli- 
gent, finest looking Chinaman that I have yet met. He wore 
instead of the trowsers, or over them, close fitting leggins of 
beavily embroidered satin. The frock was of silk, thick, rich, 
heavily embroidered, and reaching almost to his heels. Over 
this he wore a cape of the same material, also embroidered, 
but of a darker color. His hat bore a striking resemblance 
to those of the continentals, the top surmounted by a trans- 
parent red stone or button as they are called, to which a plume 
sloping back was attached. On the back and breast of his 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 163 

robe a stork was embroidered, and his girdle-clasp was of 
prehnite set in rubies; all these showed him to be a mandarin 
of the first order. As only mandarins and high officials are 
permitted to do, he wore boots. Around his neck was a string 
of precious stones reaching half way down his back, and at 
his side he wore a dagger, the golden hilt of which was stud- 
ded with jewels. He w^as accompanied by a large retinue of 
mandarins, officials, soldiers, and attendants. The former 
wore a dress similar to that of the governor, only less rich, 
and wnth diffisrent adornments according to the rank. Some 
of the officials w^ore flowered gold buttons as badges of their 
office. The soldiers wore conical-shaped straw hats, orna- 
mented with red fringe, light blue nankeen robes and jackets, 
on the back and breast of which were Chinese characters, 
designating to what division they belonged. The governor 
was accompanied by one of the foreign residents, who acted 
as interpreter. 

He remained on board upwards of three hours, examining 
every thing about the ship with a great deal of attention and 
interest, and upon his departure expressed much pleasure with 
his visit, and gave many thanks for the courtesy and kindness 
which had been extended to him. 'Tis strange and somewhat 
amusing to us to have a Chinaman salute us after their cus- 
tom, which is, to shake their own hands instead of those of 
the one saluted. This is always accompanied by "Chin chin," 
which would answer to our " How do you do," " Thank you," 
or " Good bye." 

During our entire stay here the ship has been thronged 
with boat-loads of beggars, the abject misery and squalid ap- 
pearance of whom would defy description, soliciting bits of 
hard bread and any refuse article that might be thrown away. 
As a number of their boats were under our bow yesterday, 
one of the poor wretches fell into the water, and would have 
drowned had he not been rescued by some of our crew, al- 
though there were hundreds of boats near. The reason of 



164 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

none of liis countrymen affording him assistance was explained 
to me by our bumboatman. Pie said that according to the 
laws of China if one rescued a poor man from drowning, he 
was bound to support him for the remainder of his life, should 
it ever be necessary. 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 165 



LETTER XVII. 

USETT, 

April 17th, 1866 



U. S. S. Wachusett, Hong Kong, > 



My Dear R. : 

Before breakfast Sunday morning, April 15th, we "un- 
moored ship," got up the port anchor, and made the usual 
preparations for getting under way. After breakfast the crew 
shifted into mustering clothes, and at nine o'clock all hands 
were called to muster for church service. The Rev. Mr. 
Grey, rector of the Episcopal Church at Canton, officiated. 
This was the first sermon that I had listened to in over a 
year, and I enjoyed it, with the whole service, very much, 
and wish that we might have the same every Sabbath. To 
be deprived of attending church regularly is one of the 
greatest privations that I have experienced since I have been 
in the service, and especially since I have been aboard ship. 
On that account, if no other, I shall be glad when my period 
of enlistment expires. 

As soon as service was over we got under way and started 
for Whampoa, coming down by the same passage as we went 
up. On this account we had to go to the lower extremity of 
Danes Island before we could turn and go up to the anchor- 
age, thus making our sailing distance about twenty-five miles, 
while the river steamers, which go by Junk Passage, have to 
run only about ten miles. We came to anchor by the Relief, 
our object in going to Whampoa being to take in stores from 
her. The Hartford with the admiral, we heard, had returned 
to Hong Kong. We remained at Whampoa only about three 
hours, so I did not go on shore, and you will have to be con- 
tent, for the present, with such observations of the place as I 
was able to make from the ship. 



166 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

At Whampoa (i. e,, Yellow Anchorage,) is a reach in the 
river, four miles in length, where the shipping usually lie, 
above which it is impossible for large vessels to go. The old 
town of Whampoa, with its pagoda, lies on an island of the 
same name, north of the anchorage, and distant some four or 
fire miles. Viewed from the ship, it presents a very interest- 
ing and picturesque appearance, being fairly embowered in 
trees. Near the water's edge, and, in fact, partly built upon 
the water, is New Town, the residence of the foreigners, 
which appears to be a small, dirty, insignificant place. Upon 
the opposite bank, on Danes Island, are the dry docks, the 
largest and principal ones to be found in China. On this side, 
stretching along the bank of the river for about a mile, is 
Bamboo Town, the houses for the most part constructed — as 
the name implies — of bamboo. These are chiefly the resi- 
dences of the dock-laborers. 

The country to the north of the anchorage is low and level 
— one vast expanse of paddy-fields nearly as far as the eye 
can reach. On the southern side there are several pictur- 
esque hills, covered with trees and beautiful verdure. The 
summit of the one rising immediately back of Bamboo Town, 
is crowned with the showy tombs of a Parsee burying-ground. 
The eminence itself is oval in form, covered with beautiful 
trees, shrubs, and verdure, and forms the most interesting 
and picturesque feature in the whole landscape. 

That night we anchored just outside the Bogue, and came 
here early the following day. We had barely anchored 
when Dame Rumor brought us the news that we were to 
get ready as soon as possible, and proceed to the northward 
to investigate and settle some difficulties which American 
residents there are reported as having with the Chinese. 
Later advices strengthen these reports, and I have come to 
the conclusion that there must be some truth to this intelli- 
gence of Dame Rumor. The crew have been hard at work 
yesterday and to-day making the necessary preparations, and 
to-morrow we expect to start. 



AND A VOYAGE THITPIER. 167 

After dinner to-day, accompanied by a friend, I took one 
of the many passenger-boats whicli crowd about the ship, 
and set out for the shore. After a pull of about ten minutes, 
we landed at the fine stone pier in front of Hunt & Co.'s 
buildings. A glance right and left showed a fine, wide street, 
with numerous piers and wharves — " Band,'^ it is called — 
fronting a long row of buildings ; stores, warehouses, ship- 
chandleries, &c. In front was a short, wide street, finely 
shaded, leading to Queen's Road, while at the junction of the 
streets rose a tall, square, granite pillar, with a clock on each 
side near the top — The Clock Tower. Passing up the street 
to Queen's Road, turning the corner at the post-office, and 
going west, we found ourselves amid the large magnificent 
houses of business of the foreign merchants. These, with 
the better class of Chinese silk, ivory, and lacquer shops, ex- 
tend along Queen's Road for about three-fourths of a mile, 
when the road, " both topographically and morally, makes a 
descent into Tae-ping-shan, the dense Chinese settlement 
proper, where, amid native trades, robbers, painted courte- 
sans, opium and tea saloons, foreigners keep drinking-shops 
and sailor boarding-houses." 

Retracing our steps and going east from the clock-tower, 
between more store-houses and places of business, we came 
upon a beautifully shaded park, in which are the parade and 
cricket grounds of the English troops, opening to the sea on 
one side, and overlooked on the other by the Episcopal church 
perched upon an eminence. Passing on through this our 
way led through long ranges of military quarters, with shady 
walks under rows of trees at their front, and with sentries 
posted at the gates. Here w^e saw specimens of the guard- 
ians of the place ; European soldiers in close crimson jackets, 
or dark-skinned, curly-haired Sepoys in tight-fitting Euro- 
pean dress. Beyond these we came to the Navy Yard, and 
public buildings, built of granite. 

Instead of continuing on our walk to Happy Valley, we 



lbs CHINA AND JAPAN, 

decided to leave that for some future visit, and so after re- 
tracing our steps to the clock-tower, we ascended the hill 
for some two hundred yards to Hollywood Road, a street 
which runs parallel with Queen's Road. Following, this 
west we passed many elegant mansions, — some of them 
set back in deep, shaded yards, beautified by fountains and 
statuary, — large banks and houses of business, hotels, the 
Catholic church, and again made a descent into Tae-ping- 
shan. To the eastward, Hollywood Road leads to the reser- 
voir — from which the city is supplied with water — and also 
to several private residences, including the large, elegant 
mansion of the Governor, with its beautiful grounds, above 
which are the public gardens recently established. Above 
Hollywood road are several smaller streets, for the most part 
lined with private residences, and the extensive granite pris- 
ons and police station of the colony. 

To one personage, interesting to all men-of-war's-men vis- 
iting China, I must devote a little space, — " Old Sam," — the 
bumboat man. I don't suppose that an American man-of- 
war has visited China for the last ten or fifteen years, that 
every one on it did not know this personage. He is a dark- 
complexioned, withered, dried-up old Chinaman, with limbs 
shaking as if he had the palsy, and looks so thin and light 
that a breath of wind might blow him away. He is very 
keen and shrewd, and keeps the best bumboat that I ever 
saw, and which is said to be the best one on the station. 
" Hab got eberyting," he replies to all questions as to what 
he has, and this you find to be almost true ; eatables of all 
kinds, and almost any knick-nack that a man aboard ship 
would require, while what he has not, by informing him, he 
will bring it off from shore if it is to be obtained. He is 
reputed to be very wealthy. Every man-of-war that comes 
into the harbor he supplies with a bumboat, always tending 
the Senior's ship himself, his son, " Young Sam," — a tall, 
well-formed, good-looking, intelligent young Chinaman of 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 169 

about twenty — tending the next in rank, and some relatives 
the others. They always go with the vessels to Whampoa, 
Macao, and Canton, but never to the northward, so we shall 
lose them. 

I must narrate an incident of our stay here, illustrative of 
the imitative faculties of the Chinese, and their lack of inven- 
tion. As labor is very cheap, and Chinese tailoring good, 
many of the men have sent cloth ashore to the native tailors 
and had clothes made. They would seldom take the meas- 
ure, but wanted a pattern. One man, wishing to have a pair 
of pants made, gave the tailor an old pair, adorned with sev- 
eral large patches, for a pattern. When the work was done 
and delivered, the new pants were a perfect imitation of the 
old ones, even to the size, form, and number of the patches 
which they contained, and what was better still, the tailor 
demanded extra pay for the extra labor. 



1~0 CHINA AND JAPAN. 



LETTER XVIII. 



U. S. S. Wachusett, Shanghai, ) 



April 28, 1866. 
My Dear R. : 

Our six days' passage from Hong Kong to Shanghai was 
characterized by strong winds, a rough sea, and two lament- 
able incidents. 

As I was standing on the forecastle Thursday morning, 
April 19th, conversing with the sergeant and enjoying the 
glorious sight of the waves rolling in their majestic swells, 
and the beautiful, many- colored rainbows formed by the sun 
shining upon the falling spray, our conversation and my 
pleasing meditations were brought to an abrupt termination 
by the ship making a deep plunge into a huge, coming wave, 
and at the same time shipping a sea over her bow, sweeping 
everything before it, and " piling us up " on the chicken- 
coops at the break of the forecastle. While struggling there, 
endeavoring to extricate myself, I heard the cry, that cry 
which no one hears without a feeling akin to horror, " a man 
overboard !" It was Charies Parker, captain of the forecastle ; 
but whether he was swept off by the sea, or knocked over- 
board by the jib-sheet block, (as he was engaged in clearing 
the sheet at the time,) no one seemed to know. There was 
not time to investigate the case, but to turn to that which 
they did know, and see what could be done. A man over- 
board, and in such a sea as that ! Everyone felt that some- 
thing ought to be done, but what ? It was not a time to order 
anyone out upon the water. But there was no necessity for 
such an order, — a crew of volunteers, headed by Mr. Wise — 
an ensign — sprang to the whale-boat, and with some difficulty, 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 171 

attended by no small amount of danger, managed to lower it 
and shove off. They had, however, proceeded hardly two 
boats' lengths from the ship when Parker was seen to sink to 
rise no more ; making our first tribute to Chinese Avaters. 
From the time he was knocked overboard until he sank, not 
a cry was heard to escape him, and from this, it is thought 
that he was knocked off by the block and stunned by the 
blow. After waiting a few minutes for him to reappear, 
without seeing any signs of him, they returned to the ship. 
The sea was running so high, and the ship rolling so heavily, 
that their coraino; alonor side was attended with much diffi- 
calty and danger, and there were many narrow escapes from 
death getting aboard. 

While they were preparing to secure the boat it got adrift, 
and the second cutter was lowered, manned, and sent after it. 
When she was returning, just as I was preparing to go below^ 
there was heard another cry of horror. "The second cutter 
has capsized." Springing upon the hammock-nettings, I saw 
the boat overturned, and the men clinging to her bottom or to 
the gunwales. The other cutter was then lowered, manned, 
and sent to the rescue, but none of us expected to see more 
than two or three of the crew rescued, if any were. With 
deep interest and anxiety we watched that boat as it flew to 
the rescue under the careful and skillful guidance of the cox- 
swain. The men were finally all picked up, and the boat re- 
turned in safety to the ship. We succeeded in securing the 
two cutters, but had to leave the whale-boat. 

After a delay of three hours we again proceeded on our 
way, one of our crew and oi;e boat gone, the two cutters 
badly stove up, and every thing in confusion about the decks. 

That same evening, while passing through Formosa Chan- 
nel, we narrowly avoided running over some of the many 
fishing junks which crowd the channel, they not showing any 
light until we were close upon them. A little after midnight 
the look-out on the forecastle reported a light right ahead ; 



172 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

but althoLigli "the helm was put hard up," we were too close 
to avoid running over the junk. Our flying jib-boom pene- 
trated her mainsail, lifting it, mast and all out of her. and 
throwing the junk to one side. When the crew saw that we 
were about to run them down, instead of endeavoring to save 
themselves, they commenced to beat upon gongs and cymbals, 
burn joss papers, and invoke their gods. From the cry that 
they set up after we ran upon them, we thought they were 
in a sinking' condition, and accordingly lowered a boat and 
went to their assistance, but found that they were all right, 
except that their mainmast and sail were gone — those had 
saved her. To add to our misfortunes our flying jib-boom 
was broken by the collision, and had to be cut away to clear 
us from the sail of the junk. 

We "laid to" the night of the 23d, thinking that we must 
be near the light-ship at the mouth of the Yangtse-kiang 
River. We fired three or four guns, and sent up rockets for 
a pilot, but none came to us. As soon as an observation 
could be made the following morning, we found that we were 
then some twenty-four miles distant from the light-ship, to- 
wards which we then started. We arrived there about eleven 
o'clock, took in a pilot, and, after steaming about an hour, 
sighted land off both bows — the main land off our port, and 
Tsungmung Island off our starboard bow. 

Tsungmung Island is where the Yangtse-kiang discharges 
its waters by two mouths into the Eastern Sea. At two 
o'clock we entered the mouth of the Woosung River, which 
is there about three-fourths of a mile in width. On the left 
bank stands the small, unwalled, Chinese town of Woosung. 
but it is a mere collection of low buildings, having nothing of 
interest about it, unless it be the long line of earth-works be- 
low it, now deserted and' grass-grown, or the immense number 
of junks which throng the river before the town. Also lying 
there, I noticed two or three small steamers which the Chi- 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 173 

nese had purchased from the Europeans, and now used as 
revenue-cutters. 

From Woosung to Shanghai the distance is about fourteen 
miles, nearly due south, up the Woosung River. The land 
on both sides of the river is low and level, and for the most 
part devoted to rice culture. Many clusters of houses and 
groves of fruit-trees are to be seen along its banks. A short 
distance above Woosung are the French store-houses, and op- 
posite them a French frigate was lying at anchor." After pro- 
ceeding about ten miles we passed around a small bend in the 
river, and came in view of the city of Shanghai, stretching 
along the left bank, with its immense shipping thronging the 
river before it. It was about four o'clock when we dropped 
anchor before the American Consul's, about one hundred and 
fifty yards from shore. 

I was surprised at the size of Shanghai, for it is, as you 
might say, just born. At home we are used to the rapid 
growth of cities as seen at the west, but they had the modesty 
to start with the infantile existence of villages. But Shang- 
hai, as a residence for foreigners, seems to have sprung at 
once into adult strength and glory. Fifteen or twenty years 
ago the place where the city now stands was a swamp, dotted 
over with filthy, bamboo-built Chinese houses, and there are 
some aboard the Wachusett that say when they were here 
ten or twelve years ago it was a small, insignificant town, in 
comparison with what it is at present. Now for upwards of 
two miles along the outer side of the horse-shoe curve in the 
river, by nearly a mile in width, is a city of large commodi- 
ous mansions, many of them quite elegant ones, especially 
those fronting the river and in view from the ship. Several 
of them are situated in what is termed a "compound" — a 
well enclosed plat of garden and shrubbery — the walls form- 
ing the boundaries of the streets, which are opened upon by 
carriage-gates guarded by porters' lodges. The "Bund," a 
wide, pleasant promenade and carriage- drive, curves along 



174 CHINA AND JAPAIS, 

the river's bank in front of the city, and is active during the 
day with business, and cheerful towards evening with eques- 
trians, carriages, and promenaders. 

The foreign city is divided, topographically, into three por- 
tions — the English, French, and American concessions — each 
flying their own national flag, and under the jurisdiction of 
their respective consuls. The American concession is the 
lower one of the three, and extends from about one-fourth of 
a mile to the eastward of where we are lying, to Su-chau 
Creek, about the same distance to the westward. Commenc- 
ing at the lower extremity the eye rests first upon wharves, 
founderies, and warehouses, the principal of which are near 
Hunt's wharf. Next comes Captain Robert's ship-yard and 
his residence, and then another row of store-houses. At the 
head of a short street which leads back from the Bund, is seen 
the Episcopal chapel, with its square tower, a neat, tasteful^ 
granite edifice, with green blinds, situated in a charming little 
yard filled with shrubbery. Further on, past a few fine resi- 
dences, is a medical hall, and then comes the fine large build- 
ing of the United States Consulate, with a pretty yard filled 
with shrubbery, in front of which stands the tall flag- staff, 
from which floats the stars and stripes. Continuing on, we 
pass a hotel, the head of Old China Street, the Exchange, 
another private residence or two, the Astor, another private 
residence, and come to the Su-chau Creek. In the rear of 
all, at the heads of the streets leading back from the Bund, 
are to be seen several elegant mansions, standing in beauti- 
fully adorned enclosures. 

Leaving this and crossing the tile-paved draw-bridge which 
spans Su-chau Creek, our eyes rest upon the English settle- 
ment, by far the finest and most extensive portion of Shang- 
hai. Where the Su-chau Creek forms its junction with the 
Woosung (or, as it is more commonly called, the Whang-po) 
River, is the most beautiful of the localities of Shanghai. 
Here, looking down the reach of the river, up the waters of 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 175 

the creek, and over the whole settlement, surrounded by large 
grounds and brick wall, are the showy buildings of the British 
Consulate. The consular buildings, court house, and post- 
office, are all near each other, with the union jack flying in 
their front. 

After crossing Su-chau Creek the shore runs almost at right 
angles to its former course, southvv^ard to Yang-kin-pang 
Creek, upwards of a mile in front of the English concession, 
which, in reality, is the foreign city of Shanghai. It presents 
an imposing front of large, elegant mansions, many of them 
having beautiful yards in front, and over which fly the flags 
of several different nations, showing them to be the residences 
of consuls. At intervals can be seen fine, broad streets, lead- 
ing back from the Bund, lined on either hand by stately 
buildings. 

The Bund itself is lined with numerous wharves, where 
vessels are lying, taking in or discharging their cargoes. 
Towards the upper part of the English concession is an ex-. 
tensive pile of buildings — the Chinese custom-house. 

From Yang kin-pang Creek to the eastern walls of the 
Chinese city — about half a mile — is the French concession, 
over which floats the tri-color. A few fine buildings, from 
the midst of which rises a lofty church spire, with the wide, 
busy Bund in front, is all that meets our view from the ship. 
Of the walled or Chinese town but the northeastern corner 
of the walls can be seen. 

At the point where the Chinese and foreign cities of 
Shanghai meet upon its banks, the river, about three-fourths 
of a mile wide, makes a horse-shoe curve of two or three 
miles from northeast to southwest. A low, green plain lies 
in this bend, leaving the river to curve around it of uniform 
width. Near the extreme point there is an old signal-stand, 
not now used. Back a little are several godowns, or store- 
houses. Still farther back are several large, elegant man- 
sions, standing in wide, deep yards, filled with large trees and 



176 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

fine shrubbery. Close by the river's bank, opposite our an- 
chorage, is an extensive lumber-yard and machine-shop. To 
the whole is given the name of Pootung side, or simply 
Pootung. 

The country around Shanghai, on every side, is a continu- 
ous flat, the only mountains in sight being about thirty miles 
distant in a northwest direction. The entire population of 
Shanghai is estimated at two hundred and fifty thousand. 
There is a large amount of shipping in the harbor, including 
some of the largest and finest clippers in the world. The 
greater portion of the vessels are lying at or opposite the 
wharves just below us, or those at the upper part of English 
Concession, or at French Concession. Such is the view of 
Shanghai as seen from our forecastle. Now if you will ac- 
company me on a ramble ashore, we will see what the shore 
view will furnish of interest. 

The hackmen at home, or the Tanka girls at Canton, are 
not to be compared to the sampanmen of Shanghai for brazen 
importunity. Curious triangular affairs are these sampans, 
bright-red, with an eye painted on each side of their blunt 
bows. They are propelled by grave-looking Chinamen, wdio, 
with blue cotton trowsers, no upper garments — or at the best 
a light cotton sack — shaved head, and broad-brimmed, conical 
hat, stand up, each alone, in his own boat, swaying himself 
to and fro as he slowly but steadily sculls his sampan. As 
we show ourselves at the gangway, the ship's side is thronged 
with these sampans, each man clamoring loudly for us to 
take his boat. 

We land and spend some time in looking about American 
Concession, or .Hong Que, as it is called. On the street 
running parallel with the Bund we find a few fair buildings, 
and a large number of drinking-shops and sailor boarding- 
houses, with a few miserable Chinese huts. 

Crossing the bridge over Su-chau creek, we find a toll-gate 
at the opposite side, but as the keeper sees that we are in 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 177 

uniform, we are not called upon to pay. Passing along the 
Bund in front of English and French Towns, we find our- 
selves " amid bustling scenes and noisy cries — cries from the 
cargo-boats and others on the water ; cries from the venders 
of fruits, cakes, and confectioneries on shore, but above all, on 
every hand, turning every corner, up and down every street, 
there comes upon our ears the wail, 'a-hoo! a-hoo ! a-hoo !' the 
cry of the laboring coolies, who, with the bowed staff on their 
shoulders and a burden at each end, are hurrying along with 
tottering steps, with an expression in their cry as though the 
breath was being pressed from their bodies at every step. 
From the weight of these burdens, this might well be the 
case, for all cargoes are transported to and from the ware- 
houses and wharves by men." The traveling of foreigners, 
and of most Chinese above the rank of laborers, is done in 
sedan-chairs, upon men's shoulders. No burden-horses or 
vehicles are to be seen, those on the Bund being mere dis- 
plays of luxury. Human labor is cheaper than horses or 
machinery. 

Adjoining the upper part of French Town, shut in by 
dark, gloomy walls some thirty feet high, is the old, or 
Chinese city. The walls are some three miles in circum- 
ference, and from them open six gates, into suburbs even 
more extensive than the city itself. A moat twenty feet 
in width and about the same in depth, surrounds the city. 
The approaches and entrances to the city are most repulsive. 
On each side of the street leading to it are grouped most dis- 
gusting, deformed, wailing, and howling beggars. The de- 
tails of the condition and appearance of these wretches would 
be too repulsive for narration. One of the most common and 
repulsive deformities is that of losing the feet at the ancle- 
joint in attempting to bandage the feet into littleness. The 
gates are low arched channels about thirty feet in length, and 
look like the entrances to sewers. The streets are the sew- 
ers themselves, narrow and filthy beyond description. The 



178 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

houses are for the most part built of brick, with tiled roofs, 
and in no respect differ materially from those of any other 
Chinese city. 

We will not penetrate further into the city to-day, but will 
leave it for some subsequent visit when we have a guide and 
more time, and will now take a look back into the English 
Concession. It is a mile wide, and in some places even more 
than that, well laid out in fine level streets, with large, com- 
modious places of business, intermixed with large, palatial 
residences situated in lovely yards. Still further back are 
many fine Chinese stores and shops. The English chapel 
stands in a large, but at present not very attractive yard, in- 
asmuch as it is covered with the materials from which they 
are constructing a new church, which promises to be a fine 
one. Coming out upon the Bund again, we behold a monu- 
ment near the bank of the river, and upon examination find 
that it has been erected to the memory of those foreigners 
who fell in the Imperial cause during the late Taeping rebel- 
lion. General Ward — a native of Salem, Mass. — is at the 
head of the list. 

Our ramble has necessarily been restricted, my dear R., 
and our view of the interesting sights but partial. At an- 
other time, however, when we have. a better opportunity and 
more leisure, we will be more lengthy and minute. 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 179 



LETTER XIX. 

U. S. S. Wachusett, Newchwang, \ 
July 5, 1866. j 
My Dear R.: 

Our stay here, which promised at first to be but a few 
days, has lengthened out to more than two months, and what 
then bade fair to be tedious and wearisome, has been enliv- 
ened by many interesting incidents. Although we leave 
here in a day or two, one and all hoping that we may never 
return, I shall ever revert to our time spent at Newchwang, as 
to by no means the most uninteresting period of our stay in 
these waters. But now return with me to Shanghai, where 
my last letter to you was mailed, Saturday, April 28th, and 
with me take notice of the interesting incidents in the order 
in which they have been noted down. 

That same evening we were serenaded by some of the 
Wyoming's liberty-men, who came alongside in sampans, 
and discoursed sweet music — accompanied by some good 
singing — until nearly midnight. In my account of Shanghai, 
I neglected to mention the presence there of the Wyoming, 
a sister ship of the Wachusett. She left the States about two 
months.after we did, and has been some three or four months 
on the station — having come directly hither. 

Just before noon the next day our cutters were brought off 
from shore, where they had been sent for repairs. This com- 
pleted the repairs made for the damages done on our passage 
from Hong Kong, and as all other preparations — such as tak- 
ing in coal and provisions — had been completed the day pre- 
vious, at two o'clock we got under way and proceeded down 
the river under the charge of the pilot. We left him at the 



180 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

light-ship, and then altered our course to the northward, 
steaming along at the rate of seven or eight knots per hour 
against a light head wind. The next day our port boiler 
gave out, so that our speed was lessened to five or six knots. 
The morning of the third day out we sighted land off our 
port bow, which proved to be Shantung Promontory, a high 
peak on the mainland of China, at the straits which connect 
the Gulf of Pechele with the Yellow sea. About noon we 
rounded this point of land and altered our course to nearly 
due west. The following morning we entered the Gulf of 
Liautung, again altering our course to the northward. In 
the evening, thinking that we must be near land, we came to 
anchor. We got under way again at daylight the next morn- 
ing, and after an hour's steaming we sighted a low, level tract 
of land right ahead, in which there was an opening some 
three-fourths of a mile in width — the mouth of the Liau 
river. 

On approaching nearer to the land we saw a vast plain, 
stretching away as far as the eye could reach, destitute of 
vegetation with the exception of a few trees and shrubs. 
Although less than fifteen miles distant we were upwards of 
three hours in reaching the town, on account of the strong 
current of the river. About half a mile in breadth, stretch- 
ing along the left bank for upwards of two miles, we saw an 
unwalled Chinese town, the houses low, small, and mean, not 
presenting a single attractive feature. The bank of the river 
in front was lined with crowds of Chinese, evidently viewing 
us with great wonder and curiosity. 

At the upper end of the town we saw about a dozen one- 
story buildings, of mud and brick, surrounded by walls of 
the same material, which we afterwards learned was the for- 
eign quarter. From the flag-staffs in the yards were floating 
the ensigns of three or four countries, indicating the consu- 
lates. We dropped anchor opposite the American consulate, 
some three or four hundred yards from the shore. Soon af- 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 181 

ter anchoring the Consul came on board and was saluted 
with seven guns. From some of the visitors which came 
later in the day, I ascertained the name and condition of the 
place, and the cause of our coming here. 

The foreign population numbers forty-five persons, the 
greater portion of whom are Americans. Only five of the 
number are females, and there are five or six children. 

The town is usually called Newchwang, but the proper 
town of that name is several miles farther up the river, and 
this — Yingtse — is its seaport. The town, with everything 
about it, is built of mud, and when the weather is dry it is 
at times almost concealed by the clouds of dust which are 
raised by the wind, and which even enveloped us at times. 
The narrow point of land within the horse-shoe curve of the 
river above the city, is the only attractive feature in jthe 
landscape. That is fresh and green with the young paddy. 

A band of robbers — " land pirates," they call them — have 
established themselves here, and go about the town and 
neighboring villages plundering the inhabitants of money 
and such other articles as they require. Their number is 
estimated at from fifty to two hundred. Their stronghold is 
located on the outskirts of the town, and the ruling manda- 
rin either is powerless to break up this band, or is kept from 
doing so by sums paid him ; the latter, I think, is the most 
probable. Their depredations have usually been confined to 
the Chinese, but a short time since they committed some out- 
rages upon the Consul's boys, or servants, and upon his 
interfering, the pirates turned upon the Europeans, threaten- 
ing to murder them, and carried off some articles belonging 
to them. To recover these, an expedition consisting of all 
the Europeans in the place, together with the sailors from the 
two or three merchant vessels in port, was formed under the 
command of Mr. Knight — the American Consul. But the 
expedition was defeated and obliged to retire with several 
wounded. Thus matters stood when we arrived here. 



182 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

After thoroughly investigating the affair, Captain Towns- 
end, about two weeks ago, told the Tau Tai — Chinese ruler of 
Yingtse — that if he could not break up this band of robbers, 
he, the Captain, would do so for him. The Tau Tai, appar- 
ently, availed himself of this offer with thankfulness, and 
gave the Captain full authority for doing so. After a day or 
two spent in making preparations, a little after midnight, 
Monday, June 25th, all hands were called, as silently as pos- 
sible, and about a hundred of us armed and equipped for the 
expedition. We were landed in front of the Consul's, where 
we formed, and then moved forward in silence under the 
command of Mr. Philip, our object being to surprise them if 
possible. Mr. Knight, and Mr. Davenport, the English Con- 
sul, accompanied the expedition as interpreters. The Doc- 
tor, three or four of our officers, and a few citizens, also 
went with us. 

After marching about three fourths of an hour we were 
brought to a halt at the lower outskirts of the town, before a 
low, irregular pile of buildings, surrounded by a high, thick, 
brick wall. This was the stronghold of the celebrated and 
much-dreaded pirate chief — Hu, " The Long Knife Man " — 
and his band. We were now deployed so as to surround the 
stronghold, and then, leaving the remainder to guard all 
points of egress, the ladders were brought and a party of us 
scaled the walls. In spite of the barking of dogs and the 
shots fired to alarm them, they were fairly surprised — 
probably never dreaming of such an expedition against them 
at such an hour, until we burst open the doors and took them 
prisoners. And well for us was it that we had succeeded in 
doing this, for in every apartment were found jimgalls, freshly 
loaded, with a great number of spears, swords, and two small 
pieces of cannon. For a short time it was rather warm quar- 
ters ; but we soon overpowered them, with no injury to our- 
selves. When the prisoners were examined by the Consuls 
they said that the leader was not among them, but were con- 



AND A VOYAGE THITHEK. 183 

fident that he was somewhere in the stronghold. At last two 
of us found him concealed in a small room under a pile of bed- 
clothes. He made some show of resistance with a short sword 
which he had, but a blow from the butt of my musket soon 
put an end to it. The Consuls recognized him by a fresh 
bullet wound in his ankle received in the late encounter. In 
the same room we found a large quantity of arms concealed 
under a pile of bamboos. 

The prisoners were taken to the street and then the build- 
ing ransacked, and all the arms, of which there was a gr^at 
quantity, removed. Only twenty-six were taken, the re- 
mainder of the band being away on one of their marauding 
expeditions. Having accomplished the object of our expedi- 
tion, we set out to return, the prisoners carrying the arms 
and wounded upon litters. 

By this time it was daylight, and as we returned through 
the town the sides of the streets were thronged with Chi- 
nese — the news of our midnight sortie and its success, having 
been circulated — and as we passed we were greeted with 
cheers, and there was an expression of joy on every face. 
After several halts for the prisoners to rest, we at length ar- 
rived at the American Consul's, and alter " Sphcing the Main 
Brace," we returned on board ship, bringing the prisoners 
and captured arms with us. In the afternoon the Captain 
paid an official visit to the Tau Tai, announcing the success 
of the expedition. 

The following day the trial of the prisoners commenced, 
Captain Townsend and the Consuls sitting as judges with the 
Tau Tai. An armed party from the ship attended every 
day, so that we had an opportunity of witnessing some of the 
Chinese methods of torture and execution. In revolting 
cruelty some of them would rival any of those practiced dur- 
ing the dark ages. They are almost too horrible for narra- 
tion. I had no idea that the Chinese could remain so firm 
and stoical under torture, as I saw them then ; for, although 



184: CHINA AND JAPAN, 

suffering untold agonies, only two or three could be made 
to confess anything, and that was meagre and unsatisfactory. 
No person is condemned but upon his own confession. How- 
ever, as torture is always used in all their trials, many inno- 
cent persons confess crimes they never committed, in order 
to escape the tortures. Nothing is gained by confession, un- 
less it is immediate death instead of a lingering one. 

The thumb-screw and whipping-machine were the most 
common instruments of torture employed. The thumb-screw 
is ^o constructed that after it is fitted the bones can be crushed 
by turning a screw — causing the most intense agony. The 
whipping machine consists of a wheel, in the rim of which 
strips of bamboo about four feet in length are inserted. This 
is placed so that in turning the wheel these strips are caught 
by a cross-bar and drawn back, so as to spring forward with 
great force. To undergo this mode of torture the victim is 
stripped to the waist, strapped to a board, and so placed that 
the bamboo strips will strike with full force upon him. The 
wheel is then turned until the flesh is lacerated to the 
bones, then a fresh spot is taken, and the operation repeated 
until the victim either faints or expires from pain and loss of 
blood. Beside these, I saw them cut off the nose and ears, 
and pull out the nails, to induce confession. 

After witnessing these barbarities for a day. Captain 
Townsend said that he could and would endure the sight no 
longer, nor would he have anything further to do with the 
trial. Accordingly he delivered the prisoners up to the Tau 
Tai, leaving him to do with them as he might deem proper. 
They were all tried, and executed, with the exception of 
those that expired under the tortures. The whole trial was 
a mere farce, all the proceedings being an endeavor to force 
them to confess. Those who did so were immediately exe- 
cuted, while those who did not were executed just the same. 

I witnessed the execution of two pirates, which took place 
in the square near the Tau Tai's. One of them was be- 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 185 

headed ; but the other was placed in a case exactly fitting 
his body, and then commencing at the foot it was screwed up 
by inches. Very few of those condemned to death enjoy the 
privilege of being immediately executed ; but are frequently 
made to endure days of lingering torments before death 
finally puts an end to their sufferings. 

It is a lamentable fact, that while the Chinese have so 
many traits of character that would bear a favorable compar- 
ison with civilized and refined nations, they should practice 
barbarities which are no more than equaled by the most de- 
graded and brutish savages. In defense, they say that it is 
" ola custom," and that the most stringent measures in the 
punishment of crime are necessary to preserve law and order 
throughout so extensive a country, with such an immense 
population. I am not sure but that in the main they are 
right, and that we cannot expect a different state of affairs, 
until the Gospel, with its enlightening rays, shall have pen- 
etrated their hearts and consciences, and thrown down the 
barriers of superstition and crime which idolatry has erected. 
Then, and not till then, can we expect that the milder and 
more human laws of civilized countries will take the place of 
" ola custom." 

There are now lying before me on tlje table at which I 
am writing, several strings of dirty, green, greasy-looking 
copper coin, each one about the size of a ten -cent piece, hav- 
ing a square hole perforated through the centre, and with two 
or three Chinese characters on each side. The coin is called 
" cash," and about ten or eleven hundred of them make the 
value of one dollar. They are strung on bamboo fibres in 
masses of one hundred each, each mass called a "mace." 
This small coin, this, in value, infinitesimal coin, is a medium 
of currency among ^the Chinese, and is an index of the low 
cost of their subsistence. One hundred "cash" are consid- 
ered a large daily expenditure among the Chinese, and in- 
stances are spoken of where only ten or fifteen are used. 
9# 



186 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

The money we have served out to us from the ship is Mexi- 
can dollars, and as there is little or no fractional currency 
here, we have to take large bundles of these "cash" for 
change, or else cut up a dollar into small bits, which we some- 
times do. In Macao I received for change chopped bits of a 
dollar, weighed, and then labeled with the amount, and from 
whom obtained. In large business transactions the Chinese 
use bars or ingots of silver stamped with the value in taels, 
each tael being worth about one and one-third dollars. They 
have had no gold currency for several centuries, and I have 
never met a person that has ever seen one of their gold coins. 

Near the commencement of this letter I made mention of 
the strong current in the river, which at times runs as fast as 
six knots per hour. There is also said to be a strong under- 
current. As I was walking up and down the gangway on 
watch, Tuesday, May 15th, the quarter-master sang out — 
"A man overboard!" Running upon the poop, I found that 
a junk, in passing our stern, had run into the dingey, fastened 
there by a " painter," and had thrown Breems, the boat-keeper, 
into the water. A crew immediately sprang into the cutter 
which was lying there, but before they had proceeded a boat's 
length, Breems, although the best swimmer in the ship, sank 
with a cry, and was not seen to rise again. He was doubtless 
dragged down by the under-tow. ther boats were dispatched 
to different points along the beach in hopes that he might be 
found upon it, but he was not; and, although a rigid search 
has been kept up, his body has not yet been recovered. I 
have seen death in many forms, but never in so sad a manner 
as this — a ship-mate drowning alongside his ship in broad 
daylight, while the vessel was lying at anchor, and yet nothing 
that could be done to save him. 

Breems was born in Germany, but the greater portion of 
his life was passed in France, where he received his educa- 
tion. He was about twenty years of age, fine looking, well 
educated, and in every respect an estimable young man. He 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 187 

was a good ship-mate, and much esteemed by all. For my 
part I have lost in him a dear friend, to whom I was much 
attached. I have also lost a good and kind teacher, who was 
ever ready to assist me in my French studies, and to whose 
abilities I owe my proficiency in the language. 

A week or two later a boat containing two English sailors 
and three Chinamen was capsized alongside the ship lying at 
anchor below us, and not one of the number rescued. I 
have been told by an old resident that he never saw one res- 
cued that fell in the river here, and he had seen a great many 
perish. 

About two weeks of our stay here has been occupied in 
surveying the bar at the mouth of the river, and placing buoys 
to point out the channel. Three buoys have been put down 
with two anchors, the bearings and course of the channel ac- 
curately taken, and hereafter vessels going in and out of the 
harbor will be freed from the difficulties and dangers which 
they have hitherto encountered. Great credit is due Captain 
Townsend and the Board of Survey for their effi3rts, and the 
success which has attended them. 

A few days ago the Tau Tai paid us a visit. He is a fine 
looking Chinaman, in rank a mandarin of the third class. 
The insignia of his rank are a sapphire and a one-eyed pea- 
cock feather on his hat, a peacock worked on the breast and 
back of his robe, and his girdle-clasp of gold. The title of 
Tau Tai is given to the ruler of a town or portion of a prov- 
ince. His retinue was similar to that of the governor of 
Canton, but consisted of less exalted personages. He thor- 
oughly examined every thing about the ship with much curi- 
osity and interest, and appeared quite pleased with his visit. 

Among the interesting incidents of our stay here were the 
many boat expeditions and target practices which we had, 
making our long stay less monotonous than it otherwise would 
have been. In the early part of our stay the consul presented 
the captain with a large black bear, which has produced much 



188 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

diversion for all. He is a tame, playful animal, ever ready 
for a frolic with any one. Jocko sits and watches him for 
hours, scTmetimes, with evident dislike, but he has a rival now 
whom he can not annoy or injure. 

Since we have been on the station we have had a great 
number of court-martials for different misdemeanors, the most 
common of which has been "taking French leave." The sen- 
tences have usually been light, such as the loss of a month's 
pay, or thirty days in the " brig." 

Yesterday was more appropriately celebrated than was 
" Independence Day " of one year ago. We " dressed ship " 
at sunrise, as did also the few merchant-men in the harbor, 
and ashore the consuls' flag-staffs were gay with many-colored 
flags and streamers. At noon we fired a salute of twenty- 
one guns. All the messes had a grand dinner, and ales and 
champagne were abundant. In the evening I went ashore 
and fired off thirty-five bunches of fire-crackers — a bunch for 
each state. For the whole I paid about three mace. I won- 
der what the boys at home would think of purchasing fire- 
crackers at that price. 

One of the chief unpleasantnesses of our stay here has been 
entire absence from mail communication. We have been un- 
able to send or receive letters, and, for that reason, I am glad 
that to-morrow we are to leave for the southward. I hear 
that we are to proceed to Shanghai, making two or three stop- 
pages on the coast on our way down. 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 189 



LETTER XX. 

U. S. S. Wachusett, Chefoo,! 
July 20tli, 1866. \ 
My Dear R. : 

We did not leave Newchwang until Monday morning, July 
7th, when we started, having Mr. Knight and Mr. Davenport 
on board as passengers. When I went on deck the next 
morning I saw that we were steering to the northward again. 
Upon inquiring the reason, I was told that we had passed the 
point where the Great Wall touches the sea sometime during 
the night, and that we were going back then, as the captain 
wished to see it himself, and give the officers and crew an 
opportunity for beholding it also. 

About nine o'clock it was sighted from the mast-head, and, 
going up into the rigging, I beheld the world-renowned "Great 
Wall," some ten or fifteen miles distant, scaling the precipices 
and topping the craggy hills, which have along the coast a 
a most desolate appearance. It extends along the coast for 
several miles, and terminates near the beach in an old Chinese 
fortress. About noon we came to anchor in the lovely little 
harbor of Tungtse-kau, which marks its termination. By 
observation Mr. Grove ascertained our anchorage to be in 
Latitude 40° 4' North, and Longitude 120° 2' East. The 
cutters were immediately called away, and a party of us went 
ashore to examine it. The spot where we landed was near 
the gateway of the old fortress. Inside the fort we saw a 
fine building, where the emperor resides when he makes a 
fishing excursion to the bay of Tungtse-kau. Near the build- 
ing is an old pagoda, built upwards of one thousand years 
ago. After seeing every thing worthy of interest there, we 
set out upon a ramble along the top of the wall. 



190 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

"The Great Wall," called Wan-Vi-clmng (^. e., Myriad 
Mile Wall) by the Chinese, was built by Tsin-Chi-hwangti, 
about th^ year 220 B. C, to protect his domains from the 
excursions of the northern tribes. Almost every third man 
throughout the empire was drafted for its construction, and 
being but poorly supplied with provisions many died in the 
work. On this account the Chinese speak of it as "The ruin 
of one generation, and the salvation of thousands." The 
former may be true, but the latter will admit of some ques- 
tioning, as the Tartars have several times invaded China, 
notwithstanding this barrier, and are now in possession of the 
empire. 

"It is sufficient evidence of the solidity of its original 
construction, that it has remained so well-preserved in a re- 
gion of frosts and moisture. Its entire length is estimated 
at twelve hundred and fifty miles, including all the doublings. 
The construction of this gigantic work is somewhat adapted to 
the nature of the country it traverses. In the western part 
of its course it is said to be in many places merely a mud or 
gravel wall, and in others cased with brick." The portion 
that we visited was composed of a mound of earth and pebbles, 
faced with brick masonry supported on a coping of stone, 
the whole being about thirty feet thick at the base, twenty at 
the top, and varying from twenty-five to forty feet in height. 
The top is terraced with tiles and defended by a slight para- 
pet, the thinness of which may be taken as evidence that 
cannon were unknown at the time the wall was erected. 
There are brick towers at different intervals, some of them 
more than forty feet high, but the usual elevation is some- 
what under that. They are independent structures, built 
against the wall instead of upon it, usually about forty feet 
square at the base, and diminishing to thirty at the top. In 
these towers guards were stationed and arms kept. On 
either side, as far as we went, the land is fertile and in a high 
state of cultivation. After walking along upon the top of 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 191 

the wall for four or five miles, we returned and found that 
the painters had finished putting our ship's name and the 
date of our visit, in ten foot letters, upon the wall. 'We then 
carved our names upon it with knives, and returned on board 
the ship. For mementoes each of us secured a brick, and I, 
in addition, took away a dog-like image from one of the 
many niches along the wall. As I looked over the bulwarks 
strange thoughts came over me, in comparing what must 
have been its former life and animation, with its present de- 
sertion and quietude. 

Beside the name and date of visit of our vessel, there 
were those of a Prussian Frigate, an English Sloop, and a 
French Corvette. The Wachusett is the first American 
war vessel that has visited the spot, and I would not have 
missed of this pleasure for a large sum. It will be something 
worth boasting of — the visit to and ramble on the " Great 
Wall." It was about four o'clock when we returned to the 
ship, and half an hour later we were under way, standing to 
the southward. 

At two o'clock on the afternoon of the following day, we 
came to anchor at Takoo, a small town on the northern bank 
of the Pe-ho river, near where it empties its waters into the 
gulf of Pe-che-le. On account of the shallowness of the 
water we were unable to approach within five miles of the 
shore. At anchor there we found five or six merchant ves- 
sels, a French, and an English Corvette. The country 
around Takoo presents a barren, sterile appearance. The 
scenery is said to improve as one advances up the river and 
approaches Tientsin. The size and importance of this city 
are owing to its being the terminus of the Grand Canal, and 
the place where the produce and taxes for the use of the 
Capital are brought. The mouth of the river is guarded by 
two strong Chinese fortresses, the first that we have seen 
that were not deserted. Takoo is chiefly noted as a stopping 
place for those going to and from the Capital, and as a point 



192 CHINA. AND JAPAN, 

of embarkation. It is also worthy of note as the spot where 
the first interview between the English and Chinese pleni- 
potentiaries was held, at the breaking out of the war in 18 40 
The most important feature of our visit to Takoo, my mem- 
ory will ever assert to be those large, delicious peaches which 
two junks brought along side. Theywere the finest and 
most delicate-flavored peaches that I ever tasted. Our ob- 
ject in calling at Takoo was to land Mr. Davenport, and 
this being accomplished, we got under way again just before 
dark. 

On the evening of July 10th, we arrived off the mouth 
of the harbor of Chefoo. Some thoughts were entertained 
of "lying off" until the following morning, but we finally 
concluded to enter. This we did, under the charge of the 
compradore who came out to meet us. As soon as we had 
anchored a boat was sent ashore to the Consul's for the mail, 
which had been forwarded there from Shanghai, and again 
we were rejoiced by news of our friends, and that we were 
held in continued remembrance by them. 

The harbor here is nearly semicircular in form, about twenty 
miles in circumference, facing toward the north. Across the 
mouth, stretches a long, narrow, rocky island, adjoining 
which are two or three smaller ones, leaving at each side of 
the group but a narrow entrance, so that the harbor is nearly 
land-locked, and very secure. The view is shut in upon all 
sides by barren mountains ; but at the foot of them, where 
the town, or rather towns — for there are two — stand, is a 
plain some three or four miles in width, curving around the 
bay on the southern and western sides. It is quite fertile 
and in a high state of cultivation. There is a large amount 
of shipping in the harbor, loading with silk, oilcake, and 
walnuts, which form the chief articles of export. 

The principal town lies back, on a small bight, and con- 
sists of some thirty or forty unassuming European residences, 
and a large, unwalled, Chinese town. The English consulate 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 193 

occupies the most prominent site in the place — the summit of 
a small promontory which juts out into the sea, and is con- 
nected with the mainland by a low, narrow isthmus. The 
population is estimated at twenty thousand, of which only 
about one hundred and fifty are foreigners. The proper 
name of the town of which I have been speaking, is Yen-tai, 
the little village of Chefoo being on the western side of the 
bay, but the former is usually called by the name of the 
latter. Provisions here are very good and quite cheap, the 
climate delightful, and I should prefer remaining here dur- 
ing the summer months to going farther to the southward. 

The third day after our arrival, the Consul, accompanied 
by a missionary, came on board, and told the Captain that 
there was some trouble at Tung-chow-foo, and wanted him to 
go up there with the ship and settle it. So we weighed 
anchor and went up there — about forty miles in a northerly 
direction — that same day, and came to anchor about a mile 
from the city. The cutters were immediately sent in shore 
to take soundings, and they found that the water was deep 
enough to float us within a few yards of the beach. 

Tung-chow-foo is a pretty walled town, about three miles 
in circumference, and situated close to the beach, on the edge 
of a fertile, highly cultivated, and exceedingly picturesque 
plain, extending back some three or four miles to the foot of 
a barren, lofty range of mountains. The harbor is a mere 
roadstead between the mainland and a long, barren, moun- 
tainous island, some three or four miles removed. We were 
the sole occupants, not a junk or a boat being in sight. The 
following day three missionaries came on board, from one of 
whom I learned the difficulty. They, with their families, 
were the only foreign residents — a mission station having 
been located there for many years. Some time ago they 
purchased a piece of land from the Tau Tai, and now, after 
they had improved and built upon it, he wished to take it 
back, threatening to kill them if they should refuse. Besides 



194 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

this, the Chinese had desecrated the graves of the mission- 
aries buried there. 

Early Saturday morning, July 14th, "word was passed" 
for all those who were ashore on the expedition at Newch-^ 
wang, to hold themselves in readiness to go ashore at Tung- 
chov7-foo. Accordingly we were provided with arms and 
ammunition, and at eleven o'clock about one hundred of us — 
sailors and marines — set out for the shore in the cutters and 
launches. As we approached the walls we found that there 
was an entrance to the city by water — there being a canal 
and water-gate at the northwestern corner, closed by two 
heavy iron-ribbed doors, and guarded on either side by two 
high stone towers, from which missiles that would crush any- 
thing passing could be hurled. Entering the city by this 
canal, we found a lovely sheet of water, occupying about 
one-half of the central area of the space enclosed by walls, 
crowded with junks and smaller craft. We landed at a little 
pier just inside the gateway, and leaving the boats under the 
charge of armed keepers, formed under command of Mr. 
Philip, on an eminence near which stands the principal tem- 
ple of the city. There we were joined by the Captain, and 
one of the missionaries who was to act as guide. 

Having formed, with fife and drum playing a lively air, 
we marched through the principal streets en route for the 
Tau Tai's. Every house, and the sides of the streets along 
our route were thronged with curious Chinese, it probably 
being the first time that the sound of the fife and drum and 
the tramp of armed men had ever disturbed their streets. 
I wonder what our government or our people at home would 
think should an armed body of foreigners thus land and 
march through the streets of some of their principal cities ! 
After marching through numerous dirty alley-ways, and a 
few fine streets, we at length emerged from the city through 
a strongly fortified gate into the western suburbs. After pro- 
ceeding a few yards further, we came to a halt before a small 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 195 

chapel and the residence of the widow of one of the missiona- 
ries recently murdered by the Chinese. There we remained 
a few minutes to rest, and receive a glass of water which was 
•'kindly brought us by the lady's servants. Another half 
hour's march brought us to the Tau Tai's, in whose yard we 
stacked arms and broke ranks. Seldom have I seen more 
beautiful grounds than those of the Tau Tai at Tung-chow- 
foo. They are extensive, filled with large trees and beauti- 
ful shrubbery, tastefully laid out in charming walks, and 
everywhere is the tall, green grass. There we remained 
while the Captain and Missionaries transacted their busi- 
ness with the Tau Tai. ?Lnd you may beheve that we did 
enjoy ourselves ! Could you have seen us rolling about in 
the grass, climbing the trees, and riding the mandarin's horses, 
you would have taken us for a troop of schoolboys instead of 
man-of-war's men, wht) are generally supposed to have na- 
tures utterly unable to take pleasure in any of those childish 
sports. Let that be as it may, we all were children for a 
time, in thoughts as well as actions, and for a time we had 
that perfect happiness which is said to belong to childhood 
alone. Large baskets of peaches were brought to us, and 
everything tended to make the remembrance of our visit there 
a delightful one. 

After remaining about two hours, the business was all sat- 
isfactorily settled, and the "long roll" sounded for us to ^'fall 
in." A march of about fifteen minutes brought us to the res- 
idences and grounds of the missionaries, where we were agree- 
ably surprised by finding an inviting supper awaiting us on 
tables underneath the fine shade-trees in the yard. To this 
we sat down, after stacking arms and breaking ranks. There 
was an abundance of everything that was good ; the ladies 
anticipated and supplied our every want, and everything 
within their power was done to heighten our enjoyment. 

The supper over, we had a look over the grounds. These 
comprise about ten acres, beautifully situated upon a slight 



196 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

eminence, and commanding one of the most charming and pic- 
turesque prospects that can be found. The missionaries raise 
the greater portion of their subsistence, and their crops are at 
the present time nearly ripe. The buildings are large, commo- ' 
dious, and Anglo-Chinese in architecture. Their school is 
composed of about forty scholars, which are instructed in both 
English and Chinese. Among the pupils I .noticed several 
uncommonly bright and intelligent-looking ones, two or three 
of whom are to be sent to the States to finish their education. 

At Tung-chow-foo there are four missionaries and their 
families ; and, although they are deprived of many privileges 
and enjoyments, separated as they are from civilized and 
christian people, and surrounded by heathen Chinese, they 
can still draw much pleasure from the society of one another, 
and the many beauties of nature by which they are sur- 
rounded. Above all can they find comfort and happiness in 
communing with Him to whose service they are devoting 
their all, and who will comfort and sustain them through their 
many trials and privations, and at last fully reward them for 
all that they have done and suffered for His sake in this life. 

I think that there was a feeling of regret experienced by 
all when the " long roll " sounded, and told us that we must 
bid them all " good-bye." This was done after " falling in," 
singing the Star Spangled Barfner, and returning thanks fpr 
the pleasure that we had received at their hands. As we 
returned to the ship, all were revolving in their minds the 
deep pleasure they had received from the excursion into which 
our expedition had so happily turned. The following day 
we returned to Chefoo. 

Tuesday the 17th, was spent by the crew in " coaling ship," 
and by a friend and myself in a ramble on shore. After a 
look at the town, which we found to be very mean in appear- 
ance, and very dirty in fact, we commenced to search for 
something to interest and amuse us. A Mandarin traveling 
in state was the first thing that rewarded our search. In 



4 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 197 

front were two criers or heralds, crying out the Mandarin's 
rank, and also clearing the way. Following these were two 
executioners with black official caps, and behind them two 
torturers with red official caps, they as well as the execu- 
tioners bearing the tools of their profession. Next came 
three or four musicians with gongs and cymbals, followed by 
two lads in official caps, bearing a crimson trunk containing 
a suit of criminal's clothes. These are borne to remind the 
Mandarin of his entire dependence upon the Emperor, and 
if at any time he receive a summons from his Celestial High- 
ness, he is to don them and repair to his presence. The Man- 
darin was seated in a rich and magnificently trimmed and 
adorned sedan chair, which was borne upon the shoulders of 
six coolies. At his side walked one bearing a huge crimson 
cloth-covered umbrella, and bringing up the rear was a squad 
of soldiers without arms. This is the outline of the retinue 
of any mandarin or high official when traveling, the number 
and rank of the attendants being varied according to his rank 
or position. 

"We paid a visit to the grave yard, situated midway be- 
tween the town and the village of Chefoo. This contains 
many antique monuments of stone, with curious carvings, and 
is the only thing worthy of note in the whole place. 

The " general liberty " which we have been having for the 
past two days, has fully demonstrated the truth of what I 
said upon the subject in a previous letter. Men, after being 
confined on board ship for three or four months, and then 
permitted to go on shore in great crowds for a twenty-four 
hours' debauch, will have the tendency to outrage, which arises 
from the physical power of numbers turned loose for indul- 
gence in a weak community. They are brought to this mor- 
bid condition by their long confinement ; therefore I do not 
speak of their committing some slight outrages upon the citi- 
zens of Chefoo, during this liberty, as an unexpected event, 
but rather with wonder that this should be the first time that 



198 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

such an occurrence has happened this cruise. Of course there 
will be a number of courtmartials, and some of the guilty 
ones punished as it is but right and proper that they should 
be, but still I can but think that if there were more consider- 
ation paid to the fact that sailors have human natures, and 
they were treated accordingly, all possibility of such occur- 
rences would be forever obviated, and the most beneficial re- 
sults secured. While I would not seek to have the punish- 
ment withheld from the perpetrators of such outrages, I do 
hope that the lesson will not be unheeded, and that some 
plan may be adopted which shall not only improve and benefit 
all, but also add to the good name of the ship and those be- 
longing to her. 

A few days before we arrived here, great excitement was 
occasioned by the arrival of three fugitive French mission- 
aries from Corea. The following account of their sufferings, 
and other interesting particulars, I copy from the Shanghai, 
North China Daily News, of July 16th. 

CHEFOO. 

" From a Correspondent. 
" Most painful news has just been received from the King- 
dom of Corea. On the 7th instant, a Corean junk with the 
French tri-color at one of the mast-heads, was observed en- 
tering the harbor. It brought the Reverend Abbe Ridel, 
Catholic Missionary, and eleven Corean Christians who have 
fled from that country on account of the persecution now rag- 
ing there by order of the father of the King, against the 
Christian Churches. Mr. Ridel reports that, in the month of 
February last, the King received intelligence that the Rus- 
sians had crossed his frontier, and that they were holding 
intercourse with his subjects. At the same time the Corean 
embassy in China informed their sovereign that the Chinese 
had murdered two Catholic missionaries, and that it would 
be well to imitate this example. Upon this, a general order 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 199 

was issued to apprehend all the Catholic Missionaries (there 
being no other missionaries^) and to exterminate the Chris- 
tians. Two French bishops and seven priests were arrested, 
and after having been cruelly tortured, were beheaded. As 
a special favor, a request by some of the missionaries to be 
executed on Good Friday, was acceded to. Only three Cath- 
olic priests remained, and they managed to hide themselves 
in the mountains. They determined that one of their num- 
ber should endeavor to reach the coast, and come to this port 
for the purpose of asking the protection of the French Gov- 
ernment, for those who remained. Mr. Eidel was selected 
by his confreres for the task, and it was only in obedience to 
the united judgment of his brother priests, that he parted 
from them, and came on his present errand. He describes 
the devastation committed on the Christian Church of Corea as 
appalling. One town, nearly all Christians were ordered to 
renounce the faith. Many were martyred ; others fled, 
and the greatest consternation prevailed. The Pagan popu- 
lation are averse to the persecution, but they are too weak to 
resist. There were at the beginning of this year about fifty 
thousand Catholic Christians in the kingdom of Corea. The 
two priests who survive, if they can escape the researches of 
the King's soldiers, will try to keep alive the faith until fresh 
missionaries arrive ; but they have lost everything. The 
library which existed in the capital city, containing many 
Corean books, and especially two dictionaries of the Corean 
language, compiled by the French missionaries with the labor 
of twenty -five years continual application, together with the 
printing establishment and material for publishing books in 
the Corean language, have all been destroyed. The loss to 
the science of language incurred by the destruction of the 
above named dictionaries is, it is feared irreparable. All the 
sacred vessels for celebrating the holy sacrifice of the mass 
have been destroyed by the King's orders, and the Christian 
Church in Corea is threatened with destruction. At the 



200 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

time Mr. Ridel left, the persecution had momentarily ceased, 
as the King found that it interfered with the harvest of 
the crops ; but orders had been given to resume the work of 
extirpating the Christians in the approaching autumn. 

" Mr. Ridel left this port by the Nanzing for Tientien, in 
order to see the French Admiral, who is there present, and 
it is expected that a French vessel of war will be sent to 
Corea to demand reparation. The feeling in France when 
this sad news arrives there, will be so strong that the French 
government will hardly be able to decline assuming the re- 
sponsibility of taking measures to prevent the recurrence of 
such cruelties. Such a wholesale massacre of French clergy 
by a Pagan monarch, without provocation on their part, will 
excite the strongest indignation not only in France, but wher- 
ever belief in Christianity exists. 

" The Corean government is in a wretched state ; the 
widow of the late king has adopted a youth for the sovereign, 
and it is the father of this youth who is the author of all 
these cruelties. Corea is completely undefenced. A gun- 
boat could make its way to the capital without fear of resist- 
ance. The Corean army is a rabble unprovided with artillery 
or even muskets, and a very slight demonstration would suf- 
fice to induce submission. Mr. Ridel will most probably go 
to Pekin, and it is to be hoped that the British minister wall 
not lose such an opportunity as this to ask, in conjunction 
with the French minister, for the opening of Corea to for- 
eign intercourse. This will be the surest way to prevent the 
recurrence of such lamentable events. The Corean junk 
remains here during the journey of Mr. Ridel to Tientien and 
Pekin, and is a great [object of curiosity on the part of the 
inhabitants of this port." 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 201 



LETTEK XXI. 

''achuse 

August 17th, 1866. 



U. S. S. Wachusett, Shanghai, } 



My Dear R.: 

Heat, sickness, and death, are the most noticeable events 
of the month which has elapsed since my last communication 
to you was mailed. It has truly been the saddest, most trying 
period of our cruise, and as I recall those sorrowful events, 
I can but be thankful that I have passed safely through them, 
and hope that I may never experience the like again. Hav- 
ing safely passed through them, I sit down to gjive you an 
account thereof. 

We arrived here, from Chefoo, July 26th, after a very 
pleasant passage of four days, the only noticeable incident of 
which was, the washing of a man overboard while over the 
side putting the plugs in the hawse-pipes. He was subse- 
quently recovered. Here we remained quietly until August 
10th, there being little or no exercise or unusual work per- 
formed, except to take in coal and provisions. In fact it 
would have been almost impossible to have done anything, 
for the heat was excessive, (the thermometer seldom standing 
below 90° in the shade,) and the air dry and sultry — almost 
suffocating. 

Friday, August 10th, we weighed anchor, and with Mr. 
Seward — consul-general — two American citizens, and some 
seven or eight Chinese servants, as passengers, we started for 
Hankow, a place about six hundred and fifty miles up the 
Yangtse-kiang River. It was late in the afternoon when we 
left Shanghai, so we did not proceed more than about twenty- 
five miles before we came to anchor for the night. The fol- 
10 



202 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

lowing morning we again got under way, and again anchored 
at dark, after proceeding about one hundred miles. 

The Yangtse-kiang (^. e., Son of the Ocean) flows nearly 
three thousand miles in all its windings. It is often simply 
called Kiang or 7^«-kiang — the River or Great River. The 
basin drained by it is estimated at seven hundred and fifty 
thousand square miles, and from its almost central course, and 
the number of provinces through which it passes, it has been 
termed the "Girdle of China." Owing to the great width of 
the estuary, which extends about one hundred and twenty-five 
miles above its mouth, we were able to see but little of inter- 
est of the country through which we were passing. The sur- 
face for the most part is low and level, hills being but rarely 
seen. Wherever it is available, canals are dug and water let 
in upon the rice-fields; and, when this kind of grain is culti- 
vated, it allows few or no trees to grow. The plains are di- 
vided by raised banks into plots of from one to ten acres each, 
the banks serving for pathways, as well as assisting in confim 
ing the water when let in upon the growing crop. 

In the entire absence of fences to denote the bounds of the 
fields, a cultivated plain looks like a vast garden, in which the 
plats appear as beds. At intervals along the river are bayous 
and creeks, on which can be seen immense flocks of wild 
geese and ducks. 

We started again at day-break Sunday morning, and after 
steaming a few hours, came to that point in the river where 
it leaves its estuary form, and narrows down to about a mile 
and a half in width. Just above these narrows is Siung 
Shan, or Silver Island, a beautiful spot, covered with temples 
and monastic establishments, surrounded by beautiful gardens 
and bowers. Massive granite terraces decorated with huge 
stone monsters are reached from the water by broad flights of 
stone steps ; fine temples placed to be seen and yet shaded by 
trees, open pavilions and shaded summer-houses, give it a de- 
lightful air of retreat and comfort. On a little flat at the foot 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 203 

of the eminence on which these stand, picturesquely situated, 
and embowered with trees, stands a pretty European cottage, 
in front of which three small cannon are mounted, while from 
a tall flag-staff the American ensign was floating as we passed 
— the American consulate. About three miles above this 
island is the walled town of Chinkeang-foo, about half a mile 
from which we came to anchor. The gig was immediately 
lowered, manned, and sent after the consul. 

A short distance above the city is Kin Shan, or Golden 
Island. A pagoda crowns its summit, and there are many 
temples and pavilions of various sizes and degrees of elegance. 
Golden Island is smaller than Silver Island, and has a more 
toy-shop appearance, from the crowd of temples, pagodas, 
and pavilions, which cover its sides, and glitter with green 
and y ellow-glaced porcelain tiled roofs. These islands present 
by far the most picturesque scenery we saw on the river. 
The city of Chinkiang stands just below the junction of the 
Grand Canal with the Yangtse-kiang. Its position renders it 
the key to the country, being able to blockade both the canal 
and river. The scene at the junction affords a good exhibi- 
tion of the industry and trade of the people. As Barrows 
says, "The multitude of war-junks, of burden and pleasure, 
some gliding down the stream, others sailing against it; some 
moving by oars, and others lying at anchor; the banks on 
either side crowded with towns and houses as far as the eye 
can reach, furnish a prospect more varied and cheerful than 
any we have hitherto seen." The country in the vicinity is 
well cultivated, and presents a pleasing variety. On the 
southeast the hills break into an undulating country clothed 
with verdure, while beyond stretch the lowlands, through 
which we had passed in ascending the stream. On the left 
bank of the river the land continues a low, swampy flat, with 
innumerable sheets of water separated by narrow mounds, so 
that the whole resembles a vast lake, intersected by causeways. 



204 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

"Willows grow along the sides of these causeways, and there 
are a few dwellings erected upon the elevations. 

Chinkiang is quite a large city, its walls being about four 
miles in circumference. It lies between two quite high 
ranges of hills, extending back from the river, and meeting 
behind the town. There are a few elevations within the 
walls, upon one of which, at the farther extremity, stands an 
old pagoda, and near by the showy buildings of the Manda- 
rin. The front wall is very high and thick, but the others 
are quite small. The city lies back about a mile from the 
river, but extending along the bank is a high, thick wall, 
about two miles in length, each extremity terminated by a 
lofty eminence, on the summit of which stand the ruins of 
what must have been formidable Chinese fortresses. Indeed, 
at the taking of the place by the English, on July 21st, 1842, 
the resistance on the part of the Manchoo garrison showed 
that the place was of uncommon strength, and that the Chi- 
nese were not entirely devoid of courage. It is said that 
"the Tartar general. Hailing, finding the city taken, seated 
himself in the midst of his papers, and set fire to his house, 
making it his funeral pyre. His ashes and those of his wife 
and grandson were afterward collected, and an honorary fane, 
or monument, was ordered to be erected to his memory at 
the public expense." At the upper side of the city stand a 
few European residences — the foreign section of the city. 
On the opposite bank is a large collection of low, mean-look- 
ing, bamboo, Chinese hovels. 

Monday the thermometer varied from 95° to 104° in the 
shade. And such heat! It was not only exceedingly hot, 
but was a sultry, sickening, deadening heat. There was not 
a breath of air stirring, and one and all appeared, and in fact 
were, utterly powerless, caring but little whether they lived 
or died. Every few minutes during the day the decks were 
wet down, and the hose played upon the awnings. At such 
times the steam would rise, almost the same as if water had 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 205 

been poured upon a hot stove. From the sides of the ship 
and from such portions of the deck as were not protected by 
the awnings, the pitch could be seen oozing forth, and to walk 
upon the exposed portions with bare feet was little short of 
torture. At all hours of the day the men were seen lying 
about the decks, fanning themselves, and trying every method 
to keep cool. 

In the morning, just after the " retreat " sounded, all were 
startled by the announcement that Mate Thomas Kelly had 
died while we were at quarters. The doctor pronounced the 
cause to be " congestion of the brain, brought on by the ex- 
cessive heat." Early in the morning he was on deck, appar- 
ently in his usual health ; his sickness and death all occurred 
in the space of about half an hour. Preparations were im- 
mediately made for his funeral. He was laid out in his uni- 
form until a coffin could be made, which was done by Chinese 
carpenters on shore. Of the party that went ashore to dig 
his grave, four were prostrated by sun-stroke, and one of 
them is yet lying in a critical condition. Mate Kelly's fune- 
ral took place the following morning, and his body was fol- 
lowed to the grave, on Silver Island, by most of the officers 
and a firing-party. 

I was awakened at 1.30 A. M., "Wednesday, August 15th, 
by the corporal of the guard, and told that Captain Townsend 
had just expired. He was taken ill the evening previous, 
but his sickness was not considered to be anything serious 
until about midnight, when he commenced to grow worse rap- 
idly, and so continued until he expired. A boat was imme- 
diately sent aboard the river-steamer, Plymouth Rock, for ice 
to place around the body and preserve it until we could reach 
Shanghai, whither he had given orders, a short time before 
he died, that we should proceed at day-light. At three o'clock 
Mr. Seward took passage for Shanghai in a river-steamer go- 
ing down, so as to have a tug-boat meet us with a supply of 
ice. At four o'clock we got under way, and in passing Silver 



206 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

Island we half masted the flag, and fired three guns to arouse 
the consul and inform him of the captain's death. In return 
he half masted his flag and fired three guns. The flag was 
kept at half mast all day, and all the vessels in the river half 
masted their colors out of respect to the dead. We arrived 
at Shanghai at 8 o'clock in the evening. 

The following day, at 5 P. M., the remains were taken on 
shore for interment. A salute of seven guns from the decks 
of the Wachusett announced the lowering of the coffin over 
the ship's side ; and shortly before 7 P. M. the procession left 
the Bund in the following order: 

BAND. 

Sixty sailors from the Wachusett under Lieutenant Philip, 
Acting Commander. 

(Japtain Hewett, ^ ^ Captain Bochet, 

Mr. Dixwell, o ^ o Mr. Seward, 

Mr. Nye, *1 m *1 ^^' Gri'ew, 

Mr. Hayes, ^ ^ Mr. Twombly. 

Mr. Thorne and Mr. Townsend, Chief Mourners. 

Officers of Wachusett. 

Community. 

The funeral service was most impressively read by Rev. 
C. H. Butcher, and after its conclusion three volleys were 
fired over the grave. It is said that a larger number of the 
community followed the coffin than ever had on any previous 
occasion — a mark of respect to the deceased which those who 
had the privilege of his acquaintance know well how highly 
he deserved. 

The following obituary letter from Consul-General George 
F. Seward will meet with a hearty confirmation by all who 
knew him: 

" My acquaintance with the decease was very brief, yet it 
was sufficient to enable me to appreciate somewhat the many 
excellent traits of his character. There are others I know 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 207 

who were equally attracted by his genial manner and rich 
conversation, and who grieve with me over his death. I feel 
it to be my duty to offer to such the information touching his 
life and character which I have been able to glean. I could 
wish that the service might be performed by another more 
familiar with his career and his high qualities. 

"Commander Townsend's family has been long and honor- 
ably known in America. Some members of it served in the 
war of the revolution, both in council and in camp. It was 
represented well in the Mexican war, and during the late re- 
beUion its old spirit of devotion to country was again exhib- 
ited. A brother of the deceased commanded one of the first 
regiments sent out by the state of New York at the outbreak 
of the rebellion, and did signal service. He has been widely 
known as adjutant-general of the state of New York. A 
nephew, barely twenty-three years of age, was killed in 
Grant's great march upon Richmond, while commanding the 
106th New York Volunteers. Other members of the family 
were prominently active in various departments. 

" The deceased graduated at Union College, New York, in 
1835, and immediately entered the navy as a midshipman. 
His first cruise was in the Mediterranean. He afterwards 
took part in the siege and capture of Vera Cruz, and was 
otherwise actively engaged during the Mexican war. 

"In 1851 Commander Townsend, then a lieutenant, having 
married, resigned his commission. At the outbreak, of the 
rebellion he offered his services as a volunteer, and was ac- 
cepted as an acting lieutenant. He served as such under 
Farragut at the passage of the forts and the capture of New 
Orleans. Still later he commanded the Miami, and did effi- 
cient service in the Sounds of North Carolina. Subsequently 
he was restored to the regular service with the rank of com- 
mander, and commanded the well known iron-clad, Essex, at 
the siege of Port Hudson. Still later he was division com- 
mander under Admiral Porter and upon the Red River — 



208 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

campaigns of the most harrassing description. Just before 
the close of the war he was ordered to the East India Squadron. 

" His career in China, though brief, was not an idle one. 
His conduct of matters at Newchwang was such as to afford 
a guarantee for the peace of the port, yet it was so consider- 
ate and careful, that no injury, but the contrary, was offered 
to the prestige of the native authorities. At Canton, he 
rendered some valuable service, and at Chefoo he put the dif- 
ficulties of the missionaries in the way of settlement. Be- 
fore his return from the latter place he received orders to 
proceed to Hankow, stopping at the ports, and it was at the 
first of these en route, that he met the hand of the Destroyer. 
His hard work and exposure to the malaria upon the south- 
ern Mississippi had implanted in his system the seeds of dis- 
ease, and they were germinated readily by the fierce sun and^ 
the fresh water of the Yangtse. 

" The deceased was somewhat exposed to the sun on Sun- 
day the 12th, and to the night air on Sunday evening. On 
Monday evening, he had a slight fever, which increased on 
Tuesday. Yielding to urgent advice, and perhaps to a sense 
of impending danger, he concluded to return to Shanghai 
the next morning. No one dreamed that he was seriously 
ill, but the intense heat rendered it undesirable and unsafe 
for all that the voyage should be prosecuted. At 1.30, 
Tuesday morning, wearied with work and exposure, I went 
on board the ship, and as I passed to my cot I saw him qui- 
etly sleeping. In less than half an hour, 1 was awakened 
only in time to see him yield up his breath to its Giver. 
He had passed from sleep into a state of insensibility, and 
died without the opportunity to breathe a message to wife 
and children, and a prayer to the Mercy Seat. 

"Favored by high social position, and inherited wealth, for- 
tunate in his family and domestic relations, Capt. Townsend 
needed nothing which could make life dear to him. Neither 
his experience or active life nor his enjoyment of leisure had 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 209 

been unprofitable, but he had ever been a careful observer in 
the world, and there was stowed away in his capacious mind 
a vast fund of information. 

" In character, he was benevolent and appreciative, yet 
just and firm. He was known as a fighting man on board his 
ship, and to the world, yet no one was more tender-hearted 
and considerate. His intelligence, his tenderness, his firm- 
ness, endeared him to his officers, while his manner was suf- 
ficient to ensure for him the affection of his men. The sor- 
row felt for him on board the Wachusett is deep and perma- 
nent, and forms the best testimonial to his qualities of head 
and heart." 

Geo. F. Seward. 

Shanghai, Aug. 17th, 1866. 

The death of our Captain came most unexpectedly to us 
all, and never before have I seen such an expression of sor- 
row as has been manifested by the crew of the Wachusett 
since that sad event occurred. He was beloved and respected 
by all, almost as a father, and since his death scarcely a smile 
has been seen about our decks. 

If anything can be wanting to perfect our respect for the 
deceased, we shall find it in the tenderness of the following 
lines to his wife and children, which are taken from the Armi/ 
and Navy Gazette, and are evidently from his pen. The sen- 
timents expressed in these lines has found a response in the 
hearts of most of us, as we thought of the loved ones, far, 
far away. We may not intrude upon the sorrows of his 
loved ones, but as we think of our own, we can but pause to 
think of the grief which will fall upon them, when the tidings 
of their loss reach their home. 

A NEW TEAR GARLAND. 

TO LOVED ONES AT HOME, FROM THE INDIAN OCEAN. 

My own dear wife ! dear boy ! dear girls ! 

The wealth of love ye bear for me, 
10* 



210 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

Is richer than the fairest pearls 

That glisten "neath this Indian Sea. 

And gathered round our simple hearth. 
Breathing the atmosphere of love, 

I ask no purer Heaven on earth, 
Nor dream a happier Heaven above. 

Yet far away my treasure li€s, 

Whilst storm-swept oceans roll between ; 
The Pole star reigning o'er those skies, 

Ne'er gazes on this alien scene. 
But, as I pace the midnight deck, 

The Southern Cross is blazing high ; 
Ah ! heart estranged I little reck 

The splendors of this Austral sky. 

Only the glorious sun may shine. 

At once upon my home and me ; 
And, watching him at day's decline, 

Sinking beneath the tranquil sea. 
My orisons instinctive break 

Upon the hallowed evening air — 
I know his blessed beams awake, 

My darlings to then morning prayer. 

Vicegerent of the God of Light ! 

I cannot wonder that of old 
The Magi worshiped, as the night 
ried, vanquished by thy orb of gold, 
Our purer faith — our hopes God given, 

Eeel thy benignant influence still. 
Raising the earth bound soul toward Heaven, 

Scatt'ring each brooding fear of ill. 

Thus, upwards borne, my troubled heart, 

Reposes on the love Divine — 
Far as the several poles apart. 

From those dear lives so linked with mine ; 
Long months away — for months no word 

To break the chaos absence brings ; 
My soul, beyond endurance stirred. 

Flies suppliant to the King of kings. 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 211 

The good and gracious God will keep 

My loved ones in His holy care, 
This yearning, anxious heart may sleep, 

Calm on the wings of trustful prayer ; 
And, strengthened, turn its wistful gaze 

To that sweet time of halcyon rest, 
When, bathed in love's unstinted rays, 

'Twill be amid its treasures blest. 

Up springing from the Tropic Sea, 

Again the glorious sunbeams shine. 
Bringing your Vesper Hymn to me, 

Mingling your loving hearts with mine. 
Dear wife ! dear children ! Orient sun, 

And sapphire sea, and pearly skies, 
Beam with God's smile ; the loving one 

Biddeth our downcast hearts arise. 



U. S. S. Wachusett, 
Lat. 12° 44' S., Long. 99° 59' E., Jan. 1, 1866. 



T. 



212 CHINA AND JAPAN, 



LETTER XXII, 

IT, Shai 

Aug. 18, 1866. 



U. S. S. Wachusett, Shanghai, China, \ 



My Dear E. : 

When we returned here from Chinkiang, upwards of one- 
third of the crew were prostrated with fever, brought on by 
the excessive heat, and the unhealthfulness of that place. 
There were several quite critical cases of fever ; but owing 
to the constant and excellent attendance of the surgeon, and 
his steward, all of the sick are in a fair way to recover, with 
the exception of a boy named Falvey, who probably has not 
many hours to live. 

Come with me now, and we will finish that ramble about 
the native section of Shanghai, which we left incomplete on 
our former visit. We find that our former impressions as 
to Shanghai being a dirty city are confirmed, and that the 
houses are not as fine as those of some other Chinese towns 
we have visited. Tl\ere are numerous fine shops, however, 
which present imposing fronts with their numerous and va- 
riously colored signs and lamps. The objects which most 
attract the notice of a stranger, are the silk and embroidery, 
cotton, and cotton goods, porcelain, Chinese costumes lined 
with beautiful skins and furs, bamboo pipes four or five feet 
long, shops for selling bamboo ornaments, pictures, bronzes, 
specimens of old porcelain, and many other curiosities to 
which the Chinese attach great value. The most extensive 
trade, however, is in articles of food, and sometimes there is 
much difficulty in passing through the streets of the city 
owing to the immense quantities of fish, pork, fruit and veg- 
etables which crowd the stands in front of the shops. Din- 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 213 

ing rooms, tea-shops, and bakers' houses are met with at 
every step. They are of every grade from that of the poor 
man who carries around his kitchen, or bakehouse, altogether 
hardly worth a dollar, to the most extensive tea-shop crowd- 
ed with customers. For a few cash a Chinaman can dine 
upon rice, fish, and vegetables ; nor does it seem to matter 
much to him whether his table is spread in the open street 
or in an elegant tea-house. Lying on the ground in front of 
the prisons, with their heads in the cague — a square board 
some three or four feet in length, with a hole through the 
center, through which the head is thrust, and then resting 
upon the shoulders like a collar — are seen criminals exposed 
to the rays of the hot sun, and the annoyance of the flies, as 
well as to the jeers and taunts of the passer-by. 

But leaving these disagreeable sights, we will look for some- 
thing more attractive. This we may find in the tea-gardens, 
a collection of artificial grottoes, miniature lakes and ponds, 
temples and pleasant walks, with picturesque little bridges 
leading to some temple or pavilion situated on an island in 
the miniature lake. The erection and construction of these 
evinces a taste for the beautiful and picturesque ; but I am 
sorry to add that the same good taste is not displayed in keep- 
ing them in repair, neatness, or decency. We find the waters, 
green, stagnant pools, and the whole garden given up to for- 
tune-tellers, gaming tables, conjurers, obscene show-men, and 
loafers. It presents a somewhat better appearance on one 
of their festive days, and at those times furnishes a charac- 
teristic scene of Chinese animation. The people that throng 
it are dressed out in their best garb ; the fortune-teller, con- 
jurer, show-man, and tumbler are engaged in their respective 
vocations, and the noise of gongs, cymbals, and crackers is 
terrific. We must not leave without having some tea, and 
signifying our desire to the guide, we are straightway con- 
ducted by him, over a picturesque little bridge to a tower on 
an island in the largest of the artificial lakes, where he tells 



214 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

US that we can get " No. 1, first chop, Mandelin tea." As- 
cending to the third floor, we seat ourselves in a rich and 
tastefully furnished room, which commands a fine view of the 
principal square of the gardens, and forthwith tea is brought 
us. We taste and forthwith exclaim, " this is tea r I have 
never tasted its equal before." O ye afternoon New Eng- 
land tea-drinkers, could you but have some of this tea, me- 
thinks that that reputed flow of conversation for which you 
are famed, would resemble the rapid mountain torrent whose 
progress is not to be restrained by bond or barrier! 

The Chinese have furnished us with tea as well as with 
cups, but few Europeans seem to understand the art of pre- 
paring the beverage, and are seldom seen to partake of it, 
for the sake of the pure taste of the tea. Tea-shops are 
everywhere to be seen throughout China, and a visitor is in- 
variably presented with a cup of the beverage immediately 
upon his arrival. The Chinese seldom make " strong tea," 
and never add milk or sugar. 

Tea marks the period of our departure from Shanghai for 
Japan to-day, and is a good word with which to close this 
letter. May we soon have a tea-drinking together in the 
United States, and if the article is not equal to that we had 
in China, there will be more than enough else to compensate 
for the mere loss of tea. 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 215 



LETTEK XXIII. 

HUSETT, Naga 
September 22, 1866. 



U. S. S. Wachusett, Nagasaka, Japan, \ 



My Dear R.: 

As I feared, Falvey did not live a great many hours, but 
died that same evening before we reached Woosung. Ac- 
cordingly we anchored there that night. The next morning 
a boat was sent ashore to dig a grave ; but permission for 
doing so was refused by the Chinese authorities, and we were 
forced to bury him at sea. This is the first burial at sea we 
have had this cruise, and to me it was a very impressive and 
solemn occasion. 

The headway of the ship was stopped ; the flag put at 
half-mast ; the body, sewed up in a hammock, with two thirty 
pound shot at the feet, was placed on a plank in the gangway? 
and covered with the jack ; and all hands were assembled on 
the quarter-deck, and stood with uncovered heads while the 
funeral service of the Episcopal church was read. As the 
words, " we now consign the body of our beloved brother to 
the deep," were pronounced, the plank was gently raised, and 
the body plunged into the sea. After the benediction, three 
volleys of musketry were fired, the flag mastheaded, and we 
again moved on, leaving " our beloved brother " to remain 
there, until "the sea shall give up the dead which are in it.* 
There may he rest, and 

" Find pleasant weather, 
Till he who all commands, 
Shall give, to call life's crew together, 
The word, to pipe all hands." 



216 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

Thursday, August 23d, we arrived at Yokohama, having 
made the passage from Shanghai in about four days and a 
half, beating the mail steamer by twelve hours. Our passage 
was characterized by a smooth sea, little or no wind, and with 
no unusual incidents, other than that we had no exercise. 
We found the Hartford and Wyoming both lying at Yoko- 
hama, and immediately upon our arrival Mr. Philip went 
aboard the Flagship to report the death of the Captain, and 
to await further orders. 

While lying there we had many Japanese visitors, repre- 
sentatives of the various classes of society, from the gentle- 
man ofcank to the meanest laborer. As a race they are far 
superior to the Chinese — the features more regular, and the 
complexion less sallow. If dressed in the garb, many of them 
would pass for Europeans. Instead of shoes, they wear 
sandals, with white or blue stockings, the sandal being re- 
tained upon the foot by a string passing between the great 
toe and its nearest neighbor — toe No. 2. Their remaining 
articles of dress consist of loose and baggy cotton trowsers, 
which are confined tightly about the ankles, and a short gown 
of the same material crossing the breast in intersected folds. 
The head is left bare, with the hair curiously arranged and 
decorated. The top from the forehead to the vertex, for the 
breadth of three or four inches, is clean-shaved. The hair 
is then gathered up from the back and sides of the head, and 
waxed into a smooth spike with the ends cut even. This 
spike is bound by a cord close to the head, and after making 
a short curve backward, is brought forward, and rests upon 
the middle of the shaven surface. This is the dress of the 
middle class. T[ie lower class wear precisely the same cos- 
tume, but of a cheaper material. Coolies are sometimes seen 
naked to the waist, and without stockings or sandals. The 
dress of a Japanese gentleman has not inappropriately been 
compared to " that of a [)lain, neat, but richly dressed Quak- 
eress just attired for a street promenade." The pantaloons, 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 217 

with their loose, baggy legs, are of rich, soft-colored and 
figured silk, and meet at the waist a mantle of silk, — with 
large flowing sleeves, — which is brought across the breast 
in intersecting oblique folds, and secured about the waist by a 
girdle. Over this is worfi a short frock or gown, of dark or 
dove-colored silk gauze, on each sleeve and shoulder of which 
is a white figure, enclosing the arms of the individual. The 
same device is also worked on the mantles of his retainers. 
A long, black-handled, black-scabbarded sword, with a similar 
short one, stuck through the girdle on the left side, completes 
the costume. 

In their intercourse with foreigners, and with one another, 
I have ever noticed the most courteous and polished behav- 
ior. In manner and countenance they are intelligent and 
polished gentlemen. They are quiet and subdued, rather 
than demonstrative, in their expressions of courtesy, and 
seem to have their passions and emotions under perfect con- 
trol, in this respect somewhat resembling the polished clergy 
of the Roman Catholic church. The smiles which constantly 
light up their countenances display beautifully white and reg- 
ular teeth. Their mode of salutation when about to pass one 
another, is highly illustrative of their courteous deportment. 
"One rests his hands on his circumflexed knees, and with gra- 
cious smiles lowly bows his head forward; the other imme- 
diately does the same, and after repeating this they pass on. 
This mode of salutation is not confined to inferiors in salut- 
ing their superiors, but is employed to equals." By a close 
examination the Japanese may be observed to have a dual 
character, a fact which will perhaps account for the different 
reports which different writers have given of them. We see 
them in their official capacity, taciturn, suspicious, vindictive, 
cruel, while we again behold them in their social relations, 
communicative, trustful, kind, and hospitable. The character 
assumed during the time that they are engaged in their offi- 
cial duties, is all laid aside as soon as the business is over, so 



218 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

that we may behold them in the enjoyment of social inter- 
course with those who, but a short time before, they appeared 
to regard with enmity and distrust. Their honesty is re- 
markable ; after a visit from any number of them no one 
would ever think of missing a single article; indeed, none 
could be induced to accept the most trifling present, and in 
all their dealings they are very exact. Cleanliness appears 
to be one of their chief virtues. Their modesty, however, is 
far from being equal to their honesty, for their cities are 
provided with public bath-houses, where all ages and sexes 
mingle freely, without any encumbrance of costume. 

Before going on shore we will take a survey of Yokohama 
from the ship, to see if there is not something of interest to 
be noted, and, sailor fashion, we will commence with the har- 
bor. In entering it a vessel turns to the northwestward from 
Yeddo Bay, and after proceeding in this direction for about 
a mile, the course is altered to nearly due west, in which 
direction the harbor extends for the remainder of its length. 
In all, it closely resembles a short boot in form, the entrance 
answering to the leg. There it is about two miles in width, 
and narrows down, irregularly, to a point at its inner extrem- 
ity, some three or four miles distant. 

On the southwestern side of the entrance is a high, rocky 
bluff, the scenery about which is exceedingly wild and pic- 
turesque. On its summit is a signal station, and close by are 
the English barracks, with the union jack flying in front. 
At the western, or inner foot of this bluff, are the French 
barracks. Further in is a canal, some seventy or eighty feet 
in width, which describes a rude semicircle, about two miles 
in length, and terminates in a large bight, or cove, filled with 
junks and small Japanese craft. On the semicircular space 
inclosed by the canal, stands the. town of Yokohama, facing to 
the northward, and at its greatest width measuring from half 
to three-fourths of a mile. The eastern portion is the foreign 
settlement, and the western the native portion, the two being 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 219 

separated by a wide street. Continuing on from the town, 
there are few houses seen until we cross a bridge, about a 
mile in length, at the inner extremity of the harbor. Then, 
going east on the opposite side, we come to the larger Japan- 
ese town of Kanagawa, facing to the southward, and nearly 
opposite Yokohama. On this side, near the centre of the 
town, we notice a large Japanese fortress, built of stone, 
mounting several heavy pieces of cannon, and comparing fa- 
vorably with many a fort of European construction. In the 
harbor are a large number of men-of-war, steamers, and 
merchant vessels of different nationalities, besides the im- 
mense number of native junks and smaller craft. The sur- 
rounding country has in general a level aspect ; beside the 
numerous fruit trees seen, a species of spruce, or fir, are the 
most common. And now, to complete the sketch — some 
forty-five miles in a northwesterly direction is seen the vol- 
canic mountain, Fusi Yama, with its perpetually snow-clad 
summit of fourteen thousand feet high, celebrated alike in 
Japanese history and mythology. 

While we are being rowed ashore in one of them, we can 
mark the difference of the Japanese boats from those of the 
Chinese. The most noticeable differences are the sharp, 
curving prows, somewhat resembling a skate runner cut off 
where it commences to curve over, and in their being pro- 
pelled by two, three, and sometimes more scull-oars, resting 
on bars projecting from the sides. 

We land at the little pier, or hettlehar, at the foot of the 
street which separates the two sections, and after proceeding 
about one hundred yards up this, turn off to the left, and find 
ourselves on Hamora street, — the Broadway of Yokohama. 
We pass up this street, cross the canal by a fine bridge, and 
ascend the bluff, from which we have a bird's-eye view of the 
city and the surrounding country. The town stands on a 
low plain, but farther back the country is very uneven, with, 
however, no considerable eminences. There is nothing about 



220 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

the foreign section of Yokohama to distinguish it from a town 
of equal size at home. Both that and the native section are 
laid out with much exactness, and have an appearancie of 
neatness and comfort. 

Now, descending the blufP, and taking a stroll around the 
town to the westward, there will be much of interest pre- 
sented to us. A few steps bring us to the foot of a consider- 
able eminence ascended by a long flight of stone steps, at the 
top of which stands a large establishment for drying and 
packing tea. We enter and find ourselves in a large room, 
filled with rows of earthernware or iron kettles set in arches. 
Before each kettle is a Japanese, busily engaged in stirring 
about two pounds of tea which is being dried by a slow fire. 
To each row of kettles there is one who from time to time 
passes along its entire length, taking a small portion of tea 
from each kettle, carefully keeping them separate from each- 
other on a tray. This he bears to a little desk at one corner 
of the room, where sits the inspector, who tells at a glance 
if it is sufficiently dried. If it is, the tea is placed in bask- 
ets made for this purpose, carried to the packing room, and a 
fresh supply placed in the kettles. Further on we come to a 
number of temples, whose only attractions are the exceed- 
ingly picturesque situation, and the fine carvings in stone 
which are near. Then on, past a swampy tract, and we 
come to the Grand Cairo with its thousands of courtesans, a 
small city by itself. 

As we again cross the canal, and enter the Japanese sec- 
tion at its western extremity, we find ourselves surrounded 
by entirely diiferent scenes from those we have seen in Chi- 
nese cities. Although we are on the principal street — called 
Curiosity street, from the numerous curiosity and silk shops 
which line its sides — we find everything scrupulously neat 
and clean, and are not annoyed by the clamor and thronging 
of business which ever attend a walk through a Chinese city. 
There is activity and industry everywhere exhibited, but 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 221 

conducted in an orderly and subdued manner. The sides of 
the streets are not crowded with market stands, tea and cake 
shops, or those pursuing the various trades; but all have 
shops of their own. 

Everywhere the push-cart, by which transporting is largely 
done, is met. This consists of a skeleton box resting upon 
two wooden wheels about two feet and a half in diameter. 
In front are two shafts with a cross-bar at the ends, at the 
projecting extremities of which, two push, and two more at 
the rear, resting their shoulders against bars projecting from 
the axle-tree, push also, all keeping time with a loud, guttural 
chant. These are the only wheeled vehicles to be seen 
throughout the Empire. 

On or near all the bridges, priests and devotees are seen 
sitting, singing and tinkling a small bell. These have the 
entire head shaven, and wear a long black robe. In passing 
them, those so inclined gave them small amounts of money, 
or articles of food and clothing, receiving in return charms 
or blessings. 

There are but two professions in Japan, doctor and priest. 
The doctor ranks with the privileged class, and is the most 
important man in a village or ward, of a city. Although the 
theory of their practice is Chinese, they follow the teachings 
of the Dutch to a great extent. S(taie of the more modern 
schools practice essentially the same as ourselves, but the 
greater number follow the blisterings, bleeding, and use of 
mercuriales, as taught by the most ancient Esculapians, and do 
infinitely more harm than good. A doctor never sends a bill. 
This would make him a trader, which all gentlemen scorn. 
The remuneration is left with the patient, and is usually a 
very small sum, but always accompanied with great ceremony 
in its payment. 

Before leaving China for Japan, we all had great expecta- 
tions of procuring some articles of lacquer bijou, for which the 
Japanese have been celebrated since they were first known 



222 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

to Europeans. Now let us turn to Curiosity street, from 
which we have been digressing. For shop signs we see 
large, globular, paper lanterns, suspended in front with Japa- 
nese characters painted upon them in gay colors. The shops 
themselves are entirely open in front, exposing as a promi- 
nent feature some splendid articles of lacquer work. We 
see them ranged along the open front sides, and piled away 
at the back on shelves to the roof The articles consist of 
black and gold, black and inlaid, scarlet, maroon, gilded and 
inlaid boxes, and cabinets of various shapes and sizes, vary- 
ing in value from a few cents to hundreds of dollars ; lac- 
quered cups and bowls, waiters, and a great variety of minor 
articles — whips, tops, poles, fishing-rods, turtle boxes, &c., of 
various sizes, shapes and colors, maroon, scarlet, green, and 
gold predominating. There are also to be seen small collec- 
tions of silks, porcelain, ivory studs and sleeve-buttons, with 
flies of bronze, curious chairs of bamboo, and turtles of 
bronze. "With such an extensive and tempting variety be- 
fore you, you hardly know what you desire the most, and 
provided your purse is deep enough you soon find yourself 
with a load that you are hardly able to carry, and still not 
half satisfied. In this predicament I found myself every 
time that I went on shore at Yokohama. 

Saturday morning, September 1st, the Hartford, Wyoming 
and Wachusett, left Yokohama and went up to Yeddo, some 
fifteen miles distant, our business there being to take up Gen- 
eral Van Valkenburg, United States Minister to Japan, and 
Legation. Before we arrived there, the marines of the ves- 
sels had donned their uniform dress, and had everything 
bright and shining in readiness to go ashore, agreeable to 
orders received before leaving Yokohama. 

Precisely at 1 P. M., the barge shoved ofi" from the Hart- 
ford, bearing General Van Valkenburg, and wife, child, and 
female servant, his chief of staff and secretary, with Hon. 
Anson Burlingame, United States Minister to China. As 



AND A VOYAGE THITHEE. 223 

soon as they were clear, the Hartford thundered forth the 
ministers' salute of fifteen guns. Beside the barge another 
boat left the Hartford, one from the Wyoming and one from 
us, bearing the marines from the respective vessels. 

A pull of about three miles brought us to the cordon of 
forts which stretched in a semicircular line at the head of 
Yeddo Bay, in front of the city, and about two miles distant 
from it. These forts — five in number — form a cordon of about 
four miles in length; are constructed of stone with thick, 
heavy walls ; mount several heavy guns each, and taken as de- 
fenses are very formidable. On account of the shallowness 
of the water, vessels can approach but little nearer than three 
miles of these forts, and within the cordon the water is so 
shallow that the bottom could be reached, almost anywhere 
with a boat-hook. Approaching the shore, we found the 
banks too high and steep to land, to do which, we pulled 
up into a small cove and landed over numerous small boats. 
At the landing we were met by several Japanese officials and 
coolies with palanquins for the ladies. The marines were 
divided into two platoons, and the procession formed in the 
following order : — Fife and drum in front ; first platoon of 
marines ; ladies in sedan-chairs with the ministers and mem- 
bers of the Legation by their sides, on foot ; and bringing up 
the rear, the second platoon of marines. By the sides of all 
walked the Japanese officials. Captain James Forney of the 
marine corps was in charge of the escort. 

The procession thus formed moved forward through an 
arched way, and entered the city. The streets, as I have be- 
fore remarked, difi^er from those of Chinese cities, in being a 
little wider and far more cleanly. All along our march these, 
as well as the houses, were thronged with the curious, won- 
dering Japanese, male and female, old and young of every 
class and condition. Among the spectators were a great 
many females, the first that I had noticed with any particular 
attention. Their costume is similar to that of the males, ex- 



224 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

cept that the robe is shorter, and they have an addition of 
petticoats and bodices. The hair is arranged and decorated 
in a manner similar to that of the Chinese ladies. Fair, 
rosy-cheeked, dark-eyed, laughing-mouthed beings, the young- 
er portion of them are almost as well formed and featured as 
European females, and of about the same size. Nearly all 
that we saw of a mature age, had their lips and teeth stained 
black. Their reason for so doing, I was not able to find out) 
other than that it is the custom for all married women to 
do so. 

Every few rods along our route we would pass a fine col- 
lection of temples, situated in beautiful yards like the houses 
of the better class. These temples are the most costly and 
stately structures in the empire ; in numbers far surpassing 
the churches of Catholic countries. They ever occupy the 
most prominent sites, are shaded by the finest trees, and in 
all their surroundings, there is more skill and beauty dis- 
played than is elsewhere to be found throughout the country. 
In architecture, the Japanese are less proficient than in other 
branches of industry. Temples, gateways, and bridges are 
their principal works, and are the only edifices constructed of 
stone or brick. The reason of this is, that at any moment 
the city or town may be visited by an earthquake, and unless 
the edifice were very solidly constructed, they would be de- 
molished. The houses are rarely more than one and one- 
half stories high, built of wood, and have tiled roofs. Oc- 
cupying the most prominent and beautiful site along our 
route, and having the most charming surroundings, was an 
old tower, in which was suspended an ancient bell. This is 
covered over with ancient inscriptions, and is said to be over 
two thousand years old. The Japanese regard it with ex- 
cessive veneration. 

After marching about three miles, we entered upon a bet- 
ter street, lined with better houses, and with people more 
respectable looking and better dressed than we had previous- 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 225 

ly seen. We proceeded but a short distance up this street 
before we turned off from it to the left, and, ascending a 
slight elevation, entered a courtyard, and found ourselves at 
the residence fitted up for the minister and family. Near it 
stood a tall flag-staff, from which floated the stars and stripes. 
As soon as we had stacked arms and broken ranks, we availed 
ourselves of the minister's kind permission and set out to 
explore his house and grounds. The latter are quite exten- 
sive, bordered on the front and left sides by a high, thick 
wall; on the right by a series of temples, and at the rear by 
a beautiful grove. They are finely adorned by many fruit 
and shade trees, and swimming in large earthen basins are 
numbers of gold and silver fish. 

The residence is Anglo-Japanese in its style of architect- 
ure, as is also the furniture, although the greater portion of 
the latter is of European manufacture. The floors were all 
covered with fine white matting, the mats three feet by six. 
and two inches thick, almost too white and clean for the tread 
of our boots; indeed, the Japanese, as is their custom, put 
off their sandals in a small area before treading upon them. 
The peculiar, soft, white wood of which the posts, window- 
frames, and ceiling-joists were made, was unpainted. The 
latter were excedingly delicate, hardly thicker than the wrist. 
Bolts were extensively used in the construction of the build- 
ing, and whenever they came through in sight, they were 
crowned with hexagonal or octagonal brass nuts. Light win- 
dow frames covered with a silky, white, semi-transparent 
paper formed the windows. The whole was new and fresh, 
the timber a kind of satiny white pine, covered with dark 
paint when exposed to the weather, but otherwise left un- 
painted. The building was roofed with different colored tiles 
with ornamental edges. 

This description will answer for that of Japanese houses 
in general. They differ of course, in some respects, but the 
main features are the same in all. The Japanese seem to 
11 



226 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

excel all others in the art of ventilation, placing windows 
and partitions so that the air in entering the former, strikes 
against the latter and is diffused through every apartment. 
The partitions are not generally fixed, but so constructed that 
they can be shifted, and arranged at pleasure. After about 
two hours very pleasantly passed in looking about, we par- 
took of some refreshments which had been prepared for us, 
and then set out to return, leaving the Minister, family, and 
Legation domiciled in a charming residence and with our best 
wishes for their happiness and success. 

Yeddo, the capital of the Japanese empire, and the resi- 
dence of the Tycoon, or Temporal ruler — lies on a beautiful 
and highly cultivated plain at the head of Yeddo Bay. The 
city is about five miles in length, and three in breadth, ex- 
clusive of the suburbs. It contains a population estimated 
at from one million and a half to two million inhabitants. 
With the houses constructed of such light material, fires are 
very numerous and very destructive. Thousands of the 
houses are annually laid in ashes, and it is estimated that 
the Tycoon's palace has to be rebuilt at least every five or 
six years. The most destructive fires are occasioned by 
earthquakes, when the conflagration caused by falling build- 
ings, breaks out in almost every quarter at once. It is said 
that more than an hundred thousand people throughout the 
empire are annually buried under falling buildings . To pro- 
tect their more valuable articles, many build stone houses 
under ground, or fire proof safes of clay and plaster. To 
the westward of the city is an extensive wild tract, which is 
said to be swampy. The view from our anchorage would 
not lead one to suppose that he was so near the second or 
third largest city in the world. Only a few houses can be 
seen, the vista being an almost uninterrupted plain, clothed 
with trees and verdure. There is no sound or hum of busi- 
ness to break the almost solemn stillness, nor any sign of 
that source of prosperity which is so dear to western nations, 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 227 

commerce. Apparently they have found happiness in seclu- 
sion — as the strenuous opposition that is made to foreign in- 
tercourse would indicate — and thus afforded an answer to the 
question as to whether it is to be more readily found in se- 
clusion or in the active pursuits of life. 

Wednesday, September 5th, we had muster, and Com- 
mander Robert W. Shufeldt, formerly captain of the Hart- 
ford, took command of the Wachusett. His address to us 
was short and to the point, and I can give no better descrip- 
tion of him than to say that the address is characteristic of 
the man. He spoke as follows : 

" I want you all to do your duty as men, and if you do, as 
such you shall be treated; and, so long as you conduct your- 
selves in a proper manner, you shall have every privilege 
that can be granted consistently, and no partiality shall be 
shown to oificer or man, any farther than he is justly enti- 
tled to." Thus far we have found him to be everything that 
he promised, and one and all congratulate ourselves upon our 
good fortune in having Captain Townsend's place so well 
filled. 

Among the incidents of our stay at Yeddo, was the con- 
vening of a general court-martial on board the Wachusett, 
for the trial of a number of officers and men belonging to the 
different vessels of the squadron. The charges against those 
tried were for more serious offenses than those usually 
brought before a summary court-martial, and some of the 
sentences were for two and three years in State prison at 
hard labor. September 9th we returned to Yokohama. 
There we remained till the 13th, taking in coal and provis- 
ions, and getting ready for sea. 

Soon after Captain Shufeldt came on board, S sud- 
denly discovered that his health was in a delicate condition, 
and that he needed a leave of absence in which to rest and 
recuperate. Accordingly, on our return to Yokohama, a 
sixty days' leave of absence was granted him by the Admiral, 



228 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

and he bade us " good-bye " for a time. One and all hope 
that he may never return, and it is confidently asserted that 
he never will, but that he will take immediate passage for 
the United States. He left us unregretted by a single one. 
His place is filled — and well filled — by Assistant Surgeon 
Page. He is a fine-looking, pleasant, gentlemanly young 
man, of about twenty-five years of age, and no novice in his 
profession. He came highly recommended from the Hart- 
ford, to which vessel he was attached. 

We left Yokohama September 13th, for Nagasaki, having 
Mr. Burlingame on board as passenger. As soon as we 
emerged from Yeddo Bay and entered the Pacific Ocean, we 
found the sea to be very rough, and the vessel rolled and 
pitched about so much that many felt a little sea-sick. On 
the forenoon of the following day we were caught in a bit of 
a gale, which sprung one of the top-masts, tore up the sails, 
and played the mischief generally. In the afternoon, the 
wind increasing in fury, and the barometer falling rapidly, 
the Captain anticipated a storm, and so ran into the little bay 
of Oosima for shelter. Well for us was it that he did so, 
and we all have occasion to feel grateful to Captain Shufeldt 
for the exercise of superior judgment and precaution ; for we 
had been anchored but a short time, when the anticipated 
storm commenced to rage with great fury. This kept stead- 
ily increasing during that night and the following day, and 
was then so terrific that we had to drop the sheet anchor, 
house top-masts, and keep steaming ahead, to avoid being 
blown ashore. About one o'clock Sunday morning when the 
gale was at its height, a bright light was seen in the direction 
of Yokohama, continuing until daybreak, and at times hght- 
ing up the decks so clearly that a pin could be seen any- 
where about them as well as by daylight. The only expla- 
nation of this phenomenon that has been made, is that it 
must have been caused by an eruption of one of the many 
volcanoes which line the Japanese coast. Shortly after that 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 229 

time the gale began to subside, and before noon it was almost 
calm. 

The harbor at Oosima is only about two-thirds of a mile 
in circumference, but one of the most secure and picturesque 
that I ever saw. It is completely surrounded by a range of 
high hills excepting at the little, narrow entrance on the 
southwestern side. The hills are in a high state of cultiva- 
tion, and the scenery comprises much that is beautiful and 
picturesque. On the northwestern side of the bay is a small 
Japanese town, many of the inhabitants of which visited us. 
■ As soon as the gale subsided we got under way, and the 
following morning entered King's Channel — the northeastern 
entrance of the Inland Sea, which body of water lies between 
the island of Niphon on the north, and those of Sikok and 
Krusur on the south. This entrance is very narrow, and 
guarded by two formidable forts. The sea is divided into 
several sounds, which take their name from the provinces 
whose shores they wash. As, Suwo Nada is the Sound- 
Nada — which washes the shores of the province of Suwo ; 
and so on with Bingo Nada, Sima Nada, and the others. At 
the straits connecting these sounds, are erected strong stone 
forts, mounting many heavy guns, and in construction quite 
European. All the time that we were passing through the 
Sea, we had the battery loaded and everything ready for in- 
stant action. We took this precaution because the Inland 
Sea is not open to foreign passage ; none but men-of-war 
attempt to go through, and they are sometimes fired upon. 
Only a few weeks ago a Sardinian man-of-war was fired upon 
and forced to turn back. 

We were from Monday morning until Wednesday noon 
in making the passage, (coming to anchor on both nights,) 
and I can but say that it was the most delightful trip that I. 
ever had. This feeling seemed to be common to all, and ev- 
erything was laid aside to behold and enjoy the many objects 
of interest and beauty which were constantly presented to 



230 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

our view. In some places the sea is very wide, and in oth- 
ers so narrow that the shores are hardly a stone's throw dis- 
tant; but at no point were we far from land, for the sea is 
thickly studded with islands throughout its whole extent. 
The shores are lined with neat and pretty Japanese towns 
and villages, at times so near each other as to appear like 
one vast continuous city. 

This surface is, for the most part very mountainous, but 
the scenery beautiful and picturesque in the extreme, by far 
surpassing that of the Canton and Yangste-kiang rivers, of 
which I thought and spoke so highly. The sharp-pointed 
mountains are clothed with verdure to their very summits, and 
the steep valleys running up between these mountains 
together with the almost innumerable islands of every con- 
ceivable form and size, are neatly cultivated in terraces or 
shelves, rising one above another, and diminishing in breadth 
until they terminate in the deep angle of the nook of the 
former or in a pretty summer-house or pavilion on the latter. 
The picturesque beauty and richness of these valleys, which 
sweep down to the sea from the mountain interior is unsur- 
passed. From springs at their heads, water is collected in 
reservoirs, and then let out at pleasure, in winding channels 
which empty upon the rice fields along their course, or on 
the low lands at the foot of the mountains. The gentle 
slopes are devoted to upland grains, cultivated in small plots 
like garden beds, the beauty of their checkered appearance 
heightened by patches of snowy cotton. The farm houses 
and smaller villages usually occupy some sheltered ravine or 
sequestered nook at the fool of a wooded hill, or among forest 
trees and luxuriant shrubbery, so that one is frequently sur- 
prised by a village, when he is not thinking to be near a 
human abode. 

The sides of the islands are usually very precipitous and 
laid out in winding terraces. On these terraces are cultivated 
grains, vegetables, shrubs and flowers. On the summits of 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 231 

many of the islands, the summer-houses and pavilions are 
embowered in beautiful groves of fruit trees. At points 
along the shores, and on some of the islands, the surface is 
ragged and rocky, and covered with beautiful shrubbery, as 
if by its loveliness it would hide all defects of nature, and in 
reality making the scenery ten-fold more lovely. 

Wednesday night we anchored some fifty miles from the 
southwestern entrance of the Inland Sea. Soon after an- 
choring we were boarded by a Japanese official who impe- 
riously demanded our business there, and by what right we 
had anchored. Capt. Shufeldt politely replied, "It suited 
us," and with this he was forced to be content. We got un- 
der way again soon after daylight, and at three o'clock in the 
afternoon we were at the entrance of the harbor of Naga- 
saki. This is guarded by a number of small batteries, loca- 
ted on terraces of the high eminences, which line either side. 
As we passed through it and opened the bay, the boatswain 
remarked, " I have been going to sea for more than forty 
years, and have visited almost every nook and corner on the 
globe, but I never saw a more beautiful harbor than this, nor 
one more secure !" It truly is a most beautiful and secure 
harbor. About six miles in circumference, it is almost com- 
pletely land-locked — completely but for the narrow enti-ance, 
and surrounded on all sides by a chain of high hills. These 
are cultivated in the terrace form to their very summits, and 
covered with beautiful and variegated verdure. 

The native town is very large and picturesquely situated 
upon the side of a hill at the southwestern side of the har- 
bor. Separated by a narrow ravine, and also built upon the 
side of a hill at the western side is the foreign town con- 
taining a few fine houses of business and residence, which 
occupy prominent sites. Besides these there are the usual 
appendages of a few poorer houses, and a number of sailor- 
boarding houses and drinking-shops. 

I have made no mention as yet of the Japanese currency. 



232 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

Those denominations that I have seen in use are, one, two 
and a half, half, and quarter Itzabo pieces, and tempos. E c- 
cepting the last mentioned, these are square in form. The 
Itzabo piece is of silver, about an inch in length, two-thirds 
in width, and one-eighth in thickness. Value, thirty-three 
cents. The edges are bordered, and on each side are several 
Japanese charactered. Similar in form and pro23ortions and 
also of silver are the quarter Itzabo pieces. The two and a 
half, and half Itzabo pieces have the same form and general 
features of the others, but consist of silver coins covered with 
a thin coating of gold. The former are about one-third t,he 
size of the Itzabo pieces, and the latter about one-fourth the 
size of the former. The tempos are of copper, oval in form, 
and about two inches in length, by one and one-third in 
breadth. On the sides are two or three characters, and in 
the center is a square hole by means of which they are strung 
on bamboo fibres, like Chinese "cash," in masses of the value 
of an Itzabo. In the northern part of the empire this takes 
but sixteen or seventeen, — each one being of the value of 
two cents, — but here, twenty-five are given for one Itzabo. 
Besides those that I have mentioned there are Cobangs — of 
gold, of about the same size and form as the tempos, but 
thinner and without the square hole in the center. In value 
they are equal to twenty-one Itzabos. They are not now in 
c rcidation, and are sometimes worn as a mark of distinction 
or rank. 

"I thiiik that it would be much more pleasant to take a view 
of Nagasaki from horseback, than to go all over it on foot, 
and besides I would like to have a horseback ride, it is so 
long since I had one," said friend A — , to me soon after we 
landed the other day, the first time that we had been on shore 
since our arrival. I was of the same mind, so we set out for 
the stables, to procure horses. While they were preparing 
them for us, I noticed that the horses were included in the 
general fashion of wearing sandals ; for instead of being 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 233 

shod, as is common with us, every time that they are used 
thick straw sandals are strapped upon each foot. These will 
last about one day, and effectually protect the hoofs from the 
small round stones with which the streets are for the most 
part paved. The horses being saddled, bridled, and sandaled, 
we mounted and tried their mettle in a race along the Bund 
in front of the town. This showed us that they were smart 
and active as well as easy riders. A ride of a few minutes 
brought us to the foot of the hill on which the native town 
is built. The streets of this we found to be unusually wide, 
neatly paved and clean. The latter is owing in a great meas- 
ure, doubtless, to the great slope of the hill on which the town 
is built, so that all the dirt and filth is carried off by the rains. 
Stopping every few minutes to examine the many curious 
articles exposed for sale in the shops, also to witness several 
street theatrical and jugglery performances, it was at least 
three hours before we reached the summit at the back of the 
town, and from which place we had a fine view of it. When 
about to return, we found that riding down stairs, (there are 
so many steps in the streets that each one is like a long flight 
of stairs,) was a different thing from riding up ; and, not 
having the same inducement for so doing that General Put- 
nam had, we concluded that we would dismount and lead our 
horses. Notwithstanding this little inconvenience we en- 
joyed ourselves and our view of Nagasaki from horseback 
very much. 

Before leaving Japan I must say a few words more regard- 
ing the Japanese. I have seen comparatively little of them, 
but still enough to say unhesitatingly, that they are by far the 
most intelligent, and farthest advanced in the civilized arts 
and sciences of any people of the East. Their intelligence 
may be noticed in that carefulness and understanding with 
which everything about an European man-of-war is exam- 
ined, and in their construction of forts, from drafts which 
they themselves made of those in Europe and America ; the 
11* 



234 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

forts being built by their own engineers, and comparing fa- 
vorably with the models. 

In the strict sense of the word the Japanese are manufac- 
turers. They have no complicated machinery, and the turn- 
ing lathe, though extensively used, is so rudely constructed, 
that it does not deserve the name of machine. However, it 
turns out many of the finest specimens in the world. The 
articles manufactured by them not only display great inge- 
nuity and skill, but good taste in the form, color, and pattern ; 
indeed, in these respects, they are hardly equaled by any. 
The Japanese swords have acquired a world wide celebrity, 
both on account of the fineness of the steel, and their supe- 
rior finish ; to the keenness of the edge of these swords, many 
foreigners as well as natives can affirm from experience. In 
inventions, the Japanese are more destitute than their gen- 
eral intelligence would seem to warrant. This may be ac- 
counted for by two special reasons ; one is, that the govern- 
ment seems rather to discourage anything that tends to 
change old established customs ; and the other is, that there 
is no protection given to inventions by patent rights, as there 
is at home. We are indebted to the Japanese, however, for 
two inventions ; one, that of making masts for ships by bind- 
ing together a number of pieces ; and the other, the art of 
fastening false teeth to a plate. The Japanese are almost 
perfect imitators. With their imperfect means, they will 
from models make anything from a glass bottle to a telegraph 
or a steam engine. In their fine arts, they surpass the Chi- 
nese, and even excel other nations in their paintings of birds, 
flowers, and fishes. Their landscapes, and portraits of men 
or animals are badly executed. Some of their carvings that 
I have seen are truly wonderful, and their articles in bronze 
are said to nearly equal those of French manufacture. 

As a nation, the Japanese are warlike and brave ; they 
never ask for quarter, and never give it ; they never shrink 
from danger, but rather seem to take pleasure in being placed 



AND A VOTAfiE THITHER. 235 

in trying situations. Out of their army, of more than half a 
million, only a very few will use fire arms, preferring swords, 
and considering it disgraceful to fight in any way but at close 
quarters. Hari-kari or self-destruction for criminal offenses, 
is practiced only by the privileged classes. The word is de- 
rived from two others — hari bowels ; and Jcari to cut. It is 
a privilege enjoyed only by the nobility, and then only for 
certain crimes. By putting himself to death, a person of 
rank not only saves himself from an ignoble end by the hands 
of the common executioner, but also saves his family from 
disgrace and property from confiscation. This is the only 
purpose for which the short sword is used, and the privilege 
of committing Hari-kari is sought as a great boon by of- 
fenders. 



236 CHINA AND JAPAN, 



LETTER XXIV. 



U. S. S. Wachusett, Hong Kong, China, 



Nov. 2d, 1866. 



ina, > 

>. y 

My Dear R. : 

We left Nagasaki September 24th, arriving here the 29th, 
having made the distance in the uncommonly short time of 
five days. With the exception of a little gale which lasted 
about eight hours, our passage was a very pleasant one, with 
strong, fair winds, and the sea quite smooth all the time. A 
total eclipse of the moon was the only unusual item of in- 
terest. 

After a stay here of about three weeks, during which time 
we had five or six court-martials for trivial offenses, enjoyed 
general liberty, and " coaled ship," Saturday, October 13th 
we went up to Macao. The occasion of our going there was 
the/e^e held the 15th inst., upon the retiring of the old Gov- 
ernor and the arrival of the new one — the fifteenth of the 
Colony. The most prominent feature of the fete, was a ball 
given on the evening of the 15th, and which two or three of 
the officers attended. 

We left Macao the following day, and, instead of return- 
ing direct to Hong Kong as was the general expectation, spent 
three days in cruising about the islands off the mouth of the 
Canton river, in quest of pirates, who of late have been grow- 
ing to be very numerous, bold, and troublesome. These pi- 
rates originated during some of the early Chinese revolu- 
tions, and have always played an important part in every 
subsequent one. Merchant junks trading between the dif- 
ferent ports carry guns for protection, and whenever a good 
opportunity offers itself, they turn into pirates. Imperial 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 237 

war junks, sent out to destroy these pirates, have in many 
instances become pirates themselves. Their latest great ad- 
dition they had in the war junks of the late Taeping rebels? 
which escaped capture. Their junks do not differ in appear- 
ance from the merchant or war junks ; in fact, the pirates 
follow whichever vocation is the most lucrative for the time 
being, and so it is almost impossible to distinguish them, un- 
less taken in the very act of piracy. These junks are some- 
times of three or four hundred tons burden, or more even, 
and are the largest vessels that the Chinese possess. They 
carry an enormous amount of sail, and from fifteen to twenty 
oars, and are armed with batteries of from four to twenty 
guns each, chiefly six and twelve pounders, with an occa- 
sional twenty-four. These might be quite formidable, but 
not one out of every fifty of the pirates understands the 
simplest principles of gunnery, and it is through chance alone 
that they are ever guilty of hitting an object. 

Their usual time for attacking a vessel is when she is ly- 
ing becalmed, at which time they can easily get alongside by 
means of their oars. The usual mode of procedure is to 
throw one of their "stink pots" — earthern pots, charged with 
offensive and suffocating material— on board, which drives 
every one below, and before they can again ascend, the ves- 
sel is in the possession of the pirates. They seldom kill any 
one, but after ransacking the vessel and taking what they 
want, leave her. 

Of late many of the merchantmen trading with this part 
of the world have begun to carry a few small pieces of can- 
non, and a supply of small arms with which to defend them- 
selves ; these, the pirates seldom molest, and whenever they 
do they are sure to get worsted. They used to confine their 
depredations to native junks, and smaller craft, and it is only 
of late years that they have ventured to attack foreign mer- 
chantmen. Shortly after our arrival here from Nagasaki, 
an American bark sailed for the states. A week later she 



238 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

returned into port, telling the following sad story : The 
second day out she was becalmed, and toward evening, was 
attacked by pirates. Being without arms, the crew could 
make no resistance. After ransacking the vessel, and taking 
what they wanted, the pirate chief entered the cabin, where 
the Captain was sitting on the sofa by the side of his wife, 
and deliberately shot him dead; then without a word he 
turned on his heel, and with his band left the ship. The 
wife recognized the chief as one whom her husband, by some 
unknown means had made an enemy of while lying at Hong 
Kong. Our cruise after pirates proved an unsuccessful one, 
and October 20th we returned to Hong Kong, where we 
have since remained. 

During our stay here, our band has received a valuable 
addition in an excellent bugler which we enlisted. All 
the calls are now done by the bugle, such as quarters, sick- 
call, boats' call, reveille and tattoo. The bugler also accom- 
panies the other musicians in playing " colors " and "retreat." 

The demoralizing and exterminating effects of the use of 
opium, are plainly marked among the Chinese. When the 
habit is once formed, it grows until it becomes inveterate ; 
discontinuance is more and more difficult, until at length the 
sudden deprivation of the accustomed indulgence produces 
certain death. It is calculated that every opium smoker 
shortens his hfe at least ten years from the time that he com- 
mences the practice ; one-half of his physical energies are 
soon gone, and his earnings rapidly diminished ; then feeling 
strength and income both diminishing, he plunges into crime 
to obtain what he is no longer able to procure by labor, and 
drags down into the vortex of ruin his dependent relatives, 
and all within the sphere of his influence. It is no uncom- 
mon thing to see those that are no longer able to gratify the 
cravings of their appetites, hanging their heads by the doors 
of the opium shops, which the hard-hearted keepers, having 
fleeced them of their all, will not permit them to enter. Thus 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 239 

shut out from their own dwellings either by angry friends, or 
ruthless creditors, they die in the streets unpitied and des- 
pised. 

During one of my rambles on shore a short time ago, I 
paid a visit to an opium shop. Four or five rooms in differ- 
ent parts of a square court were occupied by men stretched 
out on rude couches with head-pillows and the apparatus for 
smoking opium. The latter consists of a glass covered lamp 
with a small circular opening at the top ; a pipe consisting 
of a tube, somewhat resembling a flute — near one extremity 
of which is an earthen bowl, the circular cavity in which is 
barely one-sixth of an inch in diameter ; a bent, knife-like 
instrument, for cleaning the bowl ; a pair of scissors ; a jar 
of opium, and a long needle. In one corner of the principal 
room stood the proprietor, with delicate steel-yards weighing 
out the prepared drug, which is of a dark, thick, semi- fluid 
consistency. The smoker places himself in the position for 
smoking, by reclining at full length on one side ; then, gath- 
ers up a small quantity of the drug on the point of the needle 
and holds it over the lamp until it is sufficiently dried. He 
then forms it into an appropriately shaped roll, and inserts 
it into the bowl of the pipe. This done, he holds the bowl 
so that the blaze of the lamp can touch the opium and takes 
several quick, deep inspirations, until it is consumed, all the 
time retaining the smoke, and then allowing it to escape slow- 
ly from the mouth and nostrils. Some require as many as 
twenty-five pipes full, before they succumb to its intoxicat- 
ing effects. In the shop could be seen those in every stage 
of intoxication, from those just experiencing its effects to 
those carried into an inner apartment, apparently dead, by 
the attendants which are appointed for that special purpose. 
The opium smokers formed a motley group of sallow, sunken 
cheeks, and glassy, watery eyes, all with an idiotic look, and 
vacant stare — the most miserable and abject beings that I 
ever saw. The intoxicating, exterminating, and demoraliz- 



240 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

ing effects of opium are far worse than those of ardent spirits, 
more speedily and effectually destroying the mental, moral, 
and physical systems, and causing even a more premature 
death. The fumes are not unpleasant ; in fact, they have 
rather an attraction, but after a short stay in the shop, I felt 
quite faint and sick from them, and was forced to leave. 

" Old Sam " is an inveterate opium smoker, and when he 
was at one time on board of us for a few days, I used to 
watch him while taking his usual smoke. After some little 
difficulty, I at length prevailed upon him to let me have a 
smoke. I found it to have a soothing, pleasing effect, and no 
longer wondered at the pleasure which a smoker of opium 
derives from it, or that one so seldom breaks himself from the 
habit, when once it is formed. I took only two or three 
whiffs, but my head swam as if I had been whirled around 
and around in a swing. One time I asked Old Sam, if he 
did not know that opium was killing him, and why he did 
not leave off using it. He replied, " My sabee, he makee 
kill me, but suppose my no usee he, he makee kill me all de 
same." Again when I asked him what he would do if his 
son, of whom he is very fond — should begin to use opium, 
he replied, " My sooner see makee die than see he makee 
usee de opium." 

Among the places of interest in Hong Kong, of which I 
as yet have made no particular mention, are the Public Gar- 
dens and Central Market. The latter lies between Queen's, 
Road and the Bund, and is about five hundred yards in length 
by three hundred in breadth. There are upwards of twenty 
streets leading through it from Queen's Road to the Bund 
and these are all connected together by numerous cross 
streets. In one quarter are the meat and fish stalls, in an- 
other the vegetable stalls, in still another the fruit stalls, and 
so on an assortment and abundance of almost every conceiv- 
able article of food. Tiie stall keepers are all Chinamen, 
and for the most part are also the proprietors. At any hour 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 241 

of the day there can be seen thousands making purchases, 
from the poor, wretched Chinese beggar buying a few cash 
worth of rice, fish, and vegetables, to the Captain or Purser 
making contracts for several thousand dollars worth of sea- 
stores. 

The Public Gardens are situated on a sloping, uneven 
shelf of the mountain, back of the Governor's mansion and 
grounds. They comprise about twenty acres, beautifully 
and tastefully laid out in walks, terraced beds of flowers 
and shrubbery, and scattered here and there different species 
of trees. Everything there growing is quite young yet, it 
being but a few years since the Gardens were established, but 
in a few years they promise to become most charming. 'Tis 
pleasant to go there now upon a fine evening, when the 
wealth, beauty, and fashion of the city are out for a prom- 
enade, and the band is playing. 

A pleasant sail of about twenty minutes, brought a friend 
and myself, the other day, to the opposite or Kowloon shore 
of the bay two miles distant from our anchorage. It is per- 
fectly secure and safe now, but it is scarcely ten years since 
it was almost certain death for any Fankwei (i. e., White 
Devil, as the Chinese call all Westerns) to be found wander- 
ing there. Near the landing, where the chaingang have 
been at work getting dirt and stones from the steep ban to 
extend the Bund, we noticed several stone pillars, twenty or 
thirty feet in height, perfect cones and pyramids in form. 
They were evidently the work of Nature, but the art of man 
could scarcely produce any more perfect. The principal ob- 
ject of our visit was to search for shells, and in this we were 
rewarded by a few curious specimens. 

Last Monday, October 29th, Mr.Knapp — Second Assistant 
Engineer, and Samuel Fa-lstead — ordinary seaman, were 
sent aboard the American ship Powhattan, for passage to 
the States, they having been condemned by Medical Survey. 
The following evening Hong Kong was visited by a destruc- 



242 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

tive fire ; it was confined to the Chinese quarter, of which 
over three hundred houses were consumed. It seems strange 
that so large a city as Hong Kong should have no organized 
fire department ; there is not even a fire engine, with the ex- 
ception of a small one at the barracks. I have heard no 
expressions of regret for the fire, made by Europeans ; on 
the contrary, they appear to rejoice at its occurrence, for the 
Chinese have by far the best locations in the city, and the 
Europeans have long coveted them for building purposes. 

The weather is getting to be quite cool here now, the ther- 
mometer seldom standing higher than 75° above zero. This 
even, may seem quite warm to you to be called cool weather, 
but it is so much cooler than we have had in a long time, that 
it seems quite cold to us. The ship's company have not been 
in better health at any time during the cruise, and colds are 
the only sickness that any have. When we left the States 
we had quite cold weather for a time, but of late it has been 
an almost unvarying summer, the change of seasons being 
marked only by the change of names. It is now the gen- 
eral expectation that we will go to the southward before long 
to spend the winter around the East India isles, unless we re- 
ceive orders to start for home ; which, I am sorry to say 
does not look very probable at present. If it would do any 
good I would wish that we might start to-morrow, but wishes 
and desires I do not expect will be regarded. 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 243 



LETTER XXV. 

[ong ' 

Dec. 6th, 1866. 



U. S. S. Wachusett, Hong Kong, China,! 



My Dear R. : 

We left Hong Kong, Saturday morning, November 3d, 
upon a cruise to the northward, stopping at several points 
along the coast, and going as far as Amoy. After remain- 
ing there a few days, we returned, arriving here the 29th, 
having had a very pleasant and interesting cruise. 

While we were weighing anchor, and making the usual 
preparations for leaving here, a police boat from the shore 
came alongside, bringing two Chinamen who said that their 
boat had been taken from them by pirates a few days previous, 
and asked assistance from us in redressing their wrongs. As 
the principal object of this cruise was to search for pirates, 
their request was granted, and they were taken along with 
us, to point out where their vessel was seized, and to give 
such other information as they might be able. " Old Sam" 
also accompanied us for the double purpose of acting as in- 
terpreter and pilot. 

After steaming about thirty miles, early in the forenoon, 
we dropped anchor in the pretty little harbor of Tsing Hoy. 
On the w^estern side of it is quite a large Chinese city, hav- 
ing no foreign residents except two French Catholic mission- 
aries. These, as is usual under such circumstances, have 
adopted the dress and most of the customs of the Chinese, 
and could barely be distinguished from the Chinese them- 
selves. Lying at anchor there, were ten Imperial war junks, 
with the Admiral of which the customary salutes were ex- 
changed. In the afternoon he paid us a visit, when the 
usual routine of parading, inspecting, and saluting had to be 



244 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

gone through with. After having heard their story he took 
the Chinamen which we had brought from Hong Kong away 
with him, and said that he would search after the pirates 
with his fleet. The signification of Tsing Hoy is " level wa- 
ter," and indeed the harbor is most appropriately named ; for 
it is one of the smoothest and most beautiful sheets of water 
I ever saw. 

We left at daybreak the next morning expecting to reach 
Swaton, one hundred and twenty miles to the northeastward, 
that same night ; but, owing to a strong head wind which we 
had to encounter, we did not arrive until about noon the next 
day. 

Swaton is situated about two miles from the head of a 
narrow bight which extends back from the sea some seven 
'or eight miles. On the right hand side of the entrance is a 
small rocky island, upon which is an old, walled, Chinese 
town. From there, nearly up to the anchorage, the shores 
are for the most part rocky and barren. Near the town the 
bight widens a little, and the country grows less rocky and 
more productive. The southern side of the harbor is lined 
by a range of hills sweeping down almost to the edge of the 
water, upon the sides of which may be noticed patches of 
grain and vegetables. Stretching along the narrow strip at 
their foot are the houses and grounds of the Consulates and 
foreign merchants, some fifteen or. twenty in number, and 
constituting the foreign section. Upon the opposite side of 
the bay is quite a large, unwalled, native city with a few 
stores of the foreign merchants. On this side for a long dis- 
tance inland the land is low, level, and marshy, producing 
immense quantities of rice, which constitutes the leading ar- 
ticle of export of the place. Having climbed with a friend 
to the summit of the hills, which stretch along the southern 
side of the bay, we were rewarded by a beautiful and exten- 
sive view. Beyond the hills the country was level or gently 
undulating as far as the eye could reach, and all in the high 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 



245 



est state of cultivation. A stroll along the beach in search 
of shells, and a short time spent in the little burying ground 
to the left and rear of the town, comprehended all that we 
found to interest us. 

Our stay of five days was characterized by several inter- 
esting target and boat exercises, boat races, and drills on 
shore. 

We left Swaton on the 10th, and continued our search for 
pirates. After proceeding about thirty miles we again 
dropped anchor in the Amoa straits, and sent armed boats to 
scour around the numerous small islands and deep bights in 
the coast. We hoped to find some piratical junks lying con- 
cealed there, as it was a notorious haunt of theirs ; but not one 
did we discover. Circling around the inner extremity of a 
small deep bight was a small but pretty unwalled Chinese 
town defended by two large and quite formidable looking 
forts, upon two eminences near it, and the only ones in sight. 

We remained there until the next morning, and then pro- 
ceeded to Tung Sang, about fifty miles farther to the north- 
ward. The harbor there is nearly circular in form, about 
four miles in diameter, and with the exception of a very nar- 
row entrance, completely land-locked. Lying at anchor we 
found the English gunboat Grasshopper, and a few large 
junks. The town is quite large, unwalled, and situated upon 
a barren, sandy plain, upon the side of the bay opposite to 
the entrance. It owes its importance to its numerous salt- 
works, and the inhabitants are chiefly engaged in salt mak- 
ing. This is done by letting the water from the sea into 
shallow basins, when it is evaporated by the heat of the sun. 
The salt thus made is of a very inferior quality, but forms the 
principal article of export. While lying there the messes 
got out of potatoes, so a boat was sent ashore with the cat- 
erers prospecting. They returned with a load of sweet ones, 
which they had purchased at the rate of about seventeen 
cents per bushel. As no others were to be obtained, we laid 



246 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

in a good supply of these, and for nearly a month we lived 
almost entirely upon them, having them for breakfast, din- 
ner and supper, until all were sickened at the sight or men- 
tion of sweet potatoes. Those which are raised in this part 
of the world are far inferior to those produced in the United 
States ; in fact, those I have tasted in other places have been 
almost invariably watery, and stringy, and did not possess the 
same rich flavor. The sweet potato is the only one cultiva- 
ted or eaten by the Chinese. Several attempts have been 
made to introduce the Irish potato, at least to produce a suf- 
ficient quantity for the supply of the European residents ; but 
thus far all , attempts have proved unsuccessful, such is the 
almost insurmountable difficulty of establishing any new 
thing in the favor of the natives. 

Our stay at Tung Sang, like that at Amoa Straits, was 
characterized by boat expeditions, and target and other ex- 
ercises, and of all these we had a sufficiency to satisfy the 
most desirous of us. And yet the majority are always ready 
for any such thing, not only on account of the present enjoy- 
ment, but also because by practice, proficiency is attained, 
and a true sailor ever takes an interest and delight in doing 
anything in his calling that will enable him to excel another. 
Without boasting, and with the strictest truth, I can say that 
the crew of the Wachusett have attained such a degree of 
proficiency in all exercises pertaining to a man-of-war as to 
be equaled by very few vessels in these waters, and to be 
surpassed by none, as many trials have shown to all. 

We left Tung Sang November 17th, before daylight, and 
about the middle of the afternoon of the same day we arrived 
among the islands which at the distance of about eight miles 
from the city of Amoy stretch across the mouth of an ex- 
tensive bay, formed by two projecting headlands of the coast. 
The harbor within enclosed extends for several miles, being 
open to the sea on the southeast, and having on the south 
the lofty hill of Lam-tai-too, situated on the mainland and 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 247 

surmounted by a conspicuous pagoda. On the southwest 
lies an island with another conspicuous pagoda at the en- 
trance of a river leading up to Chang-chew. On the east at 
a greater distance lies the island of Kinmun or Quemoy. 
The island of Amoy itself fills up the north and northwest 
of this circular range of hills, which rival each other in the 
bold grandeur of their towering cliffs, and the wild sterility 
of their scenery. Steaming along the southern shore of the 
island, which is here lined with an extensive range of batter- 
ies — now decaying and deserted, we at length came to an- 
chor in the lesser harbor, between the city and the opposite 
island of Kulang-su, which lies about half a mile distant 
from Amoy. The harbor at Amoy is considered one of the 
best on the coast, and the scenery surrounding it, though 
quite barren, is varied and interesting. A day or two after 
our arrival, accompanied by a friend, I went ashore to see 
what there might be of interest. We landed on the Amoy 
side just below the city, and ascending the towering range of 
cliffs near by, and the huge rock which crowns the summit, 
we were rewarded by a complete and splendid view of the 
city and harbors, and the country for many miles around. 

The island of Amoy, about forty miles in circumference, 
is, together with several lesser isles, situated within the be- 
fore mentioned head-lands on the coast. Between these 
islands and the mainland is the harbor — or harbors rather ; 
for it is divided into two portions called the inner and the 
outer harbors ; the southern extremity of Kulang-su being 
the dividing point. The city of Amoy or Hiamun, (i. e., the 
gate or harbor of Hia) is situated on the southwestern side of 
the island of Amoy, at the mouth of the Dragon river. There 
is an outer and inner city, as one approaches it from the sea, 
or more properly a citadel and city, divided by a ridge of 
high, rocky hills, with an old wall extending along the top. 
A paved road, which we saw for the first time standing upon 
this rock on the cliffs, connects the two. The entire circuit 



248 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

of the city and suburbs is upwards of eight miles, and con- 
tains an estimated population of three hundred thousand in- 
habitants, while that of the island is estimated at one hun- 
dred thousand more. Amoy is further divided by the inner 
harbor, which extends in front and joins a large estuary run- 
ning up some distance into the island, and skirting the north- 
ern side of the city. Thus it, in fact, lies upon a tongue of 
land, having only one-third of its circuit defended by walls, 
and these overlooked by the hills at its rear. The island of 
Amoy is said to contain one hundred and thirty-six villages 
and hamlets, the most of which could be seen from our stand- 
point. Like a stupendous citadel of natural formation, a 
range of towering cliffs extends over the whole, leaving, for 
the work of tillage, portions of low, undulating ground be- 
tween their base and the sea, while upon the top of this 
range there, are a few miles of highly cultivated land. 

The western sideof the harbor, here from six to seven hun- 
dred yards wide, is occupied by the island of Kulang-su, 
while away to the eastward is the island of Quemoy or Ken- 
mun (i. e.. Golden Harbor), presenting a striking contrast in 
the low, rice grounds on its southwestern side to the high 
land of Amoy. 

Now to turn to our ramble, and what we saw and learned. 
Descending from our perch on the rock, we climbed the 
hills in the rear of the town. These have been its bury- 
ing ground for centuries, and are entirely covered with graves ; 
probably many millions have been buried there. In a 
previous letter I made mention of the graves of the man- 
darins, and the higher order of the Chinese. Those of the 
lower order are barely two feet deep, the sides and bottom 
being lined with a kind of cement. After the coffin has 
been placed in position, the grave filled up, and a convex 
mound raised over it, the top is covered over with the cement 
which in a short time hardens, forming a rock-like case. 
This effectually protects the body from the ravages of dogs, 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 



249 



which are numerous and ravenous in China, and makes the 
hill appear at a distance, as if it were thickly studded with 
large rocks. We noticed several mandarin sepulchers, cut 
out of the solid rock, and finely ornamented with inscriptions 
and epitaphs. The Chinese seldom select as burial places 
for their dead, situations capable of agricultural use or im- 
provement, but inter their dead on the hill side or under the 
craggy precipice where little else could be made of the soil. 
In this manner are they forced in every way to economize 
the soil. 

Decending into the city of Amoy at its rear, we found 
ourselves in a perfect maze of narrow, filthy streets, lined 
for the most part with houses of the poorest description. 
Upon an eminence commonly called " White Stag Hill," near 
the city, is a collection of temples, the only thing worthy of 
note that we saw. They consist of a cluster of buildings, 
perched upon overhanging rocks, and both in their situation 
and surroundings are exceedingly romantic and picturesque. 

Along the water's edge, in front of the city, are a few 
European buildings, mostly stores and ship-chandleries. The 
residences of the Europeans are upon the Kulang-su side of 
the bay, which we reached after a few minutes sail. We 
landed upon a long stone causeway, which extends out into 
the harbor, and at which vessels load and unload. Ascend- 
ing a succession of eminences, to a point where we could 
have a good view of the island, we found it to be about a 
mile in length, and the same in width in its widest part ; we 
saw that, although partaking of the same general ruggedness 
of aspect as the main land, it possessed a picturesque and 
romantic beauty of scenery peculiarly its own, in the glens 
and deep, narrow ravines overhung with masses of rock of 
every imaginable form and appearance. In some parts little 
groves of banian trees encircle a few houses, and everywhere 
are to be seen plats of grain or vegetables. The northern 
side of the island is by far the most beautiful and picturesque, 
12 



250 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

and of so high a degree of cultivation and beauty as to call 
forth the following description : " A series of gardens with 
their rich foliage rises gradually up the slope of a little hill, 
till they meet the odd jumble of chasms and boulder-stones, 
piled aloft or loosely scattered around." Scattered over the 
entire island are some thirty-five residences situated in beau 
tiful gardens and fairly embowered in trees. Occupying a 
prominent site is the neat little chapel of the North Dutch 
Church. 

There are upwards of five hundred European residents at 
Amoy, for the most part merchants and their families. 

Among the interesting incidents of our stay were the 
usual number of boat-races and exercises, the visit of the 
Tau Tai, and upon Sunday the holding of service on board 
the ship by one of the missionaries, whose field is at Amoy. 
The majority of the crew attended, influenced in no small 
degree probably by the presence of the two pretty daughters 
of the missionary. To work good among sailors, I am in- 
clined to believe that the missionary would find it advanta- 
geous to have some pretty and attractive female to accom- 
pany him, in order to induce them to listen to him, and to fix 
their attention. Then he might have better hopes of being 
successful in his endeavors. 

The services were conducted after the manner of the 
North Dutch Church, and all seemed to be much interested, 
especially in the singing, in which the voices of the ladies 
made a great improvement. 

We left Amoy Wednesday, November 28th, arriving here 
in the afternoon of the following day, after a very rough pas- 
sage. Owing to a severe storm a day or two previous, the 
sea was very rough, and we rolled and pitched about so fear- 
fully as to make many an old salt feel a little sea sick. We 
who were not sick were rejoiced at the roughness of the sea, 
for that precluded all idea of exercising, and we enjoyed a 
rest for two days. 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 251 

The day of our arrival here, being the last Thursday in 
November, we decided was Thanksgiving day at home, and 
as such, those who were so disposed, celebrated it. I made 
an excellent Thanksgiving dinner upon two papers that day 
received from home, and a No. 1 repast gotten up to order 
at the hotel ashore, for myself and three or four friends. It 
would be hard to tell which part I enjoyed the most ; but 
upon the whole, I think that it was the former, by as much 
as intellectual excels mere sensual enjoyments. You at home 
have no conception of the amount of pleasure which a home 
newspaper, even although it may be two or three months old, 
gives to a crew. As a choice treasure it is carefully pre- 
served, and passed from one to another until all have thor- 
oughly read it. If our friends at home had any idea how 
highly an occasional file of newspapers is valued, I am sure 
that more would be sent to those far away. Strikingly true in 
their case are the words of the wise man, '* Like waters to 
a thirsty soul, so is news from a far country." 

Since we have been here, the crew have been at work 
" setting up rigging," and doing other work aloft. The chief 
item of interest has been the losing of Dr. Page, who came 
to take Dr. King's place, and to whom one and all had be- 
come endeared. Nor were we less dear to him as was 
clearly shown in his affecting leave-taking. He took one 
and all by the hand, and bade them *' good bye," while his 
face was wet with tears, and sobs almost choked his utterance. 
Few dry eyes were seen among all on board. Never was 
an officer more beloved by a crew, or a crew more saddened 
by the loss of an officer. Once only have I seen as much 
feeling manifested, and that was at the time of the late Cap- 
tain Townsend's death. The petty officers asked the Cap- 
tain if it was not possible to keep him, and when told that it 
was not, begged permission to " cheer ship " for him. But 
this was also denied them, as being contrary to the " Rules 
and Regulations for the better government of the Navy." 



252 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

How much better and pleasanter it is for officers thus to have 
the best regards of the crew. Never did I hear of an in- 
stance where this was the case but there was joined to it the 
greatest respect for their authority. It perhaps may answer 
with other nationahties, but fear alone is not the wisest nor 
best mode of governing intelligent American seamen. 

Yesterday a survey was held upon the Wachusett, and 
the board of Survey has reported that she needs to go into 
dock for repairs, so the admiral has ordered us up to Wham- 
poa to-morrow for that purpose. 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 253 



LETTEE XXVI 

ETT, Hona: 
December 29th, 1866. 



U. S. S. Wachusett, Hong Kong, China, ^ 



My Dear R.: 

As we were ordered we went up to Whampoa the next 
morning, but did not go into dock for four days afterward, 
there being a vessel in there which had not finished making re- 
pairs. We were in dock about two weeks, and while there 
the vessel was thoroughly caulked both inside and out, new 
copper put on where it was needed, the decks were repaired, 
and a new yard and topmast made. The ship was most 
thoroughly overhauled, and from this many infer that we will 
remain on the station a much longer time, notwithstanding 
the many " well authenticated " reports that we are soon to 
start for home. It does not seem to me probable that the re- 
pairs would have been so extensive if we were soon to be 
*' homeward bound." 

For a few days the ship was in the greatest filth and con- 
fusion imaginable. One hundred Chinese caulkers continu- 
ally hammering, made such a noise that one could neither 
read, sleep, eat, or even think comfortably ; and for five whole 
days, the decks saw neither water nor sand, nor holy-stone, 
but everywhere dirt reigned supreme. After the caulking 
was all finished, and the signal was given, it was amusing to 
see the angry and furious onslaught made by the crew with 
their accustomed weapons upon King Dirt. After a short 
but vigorous conflict, he was completely vanquished, and real- 
ly it did seem good to see the decks white and the ship clean 
once more. So long as I am not compelled to take part I 
will never again complain of the use of holy-stones and 



254 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

sand if it does not exceed three times a day ; all feel so un- 
comfortable if a day passes without having the ship cleaned. 
The repairs were all made by the Chinese dock-laborers, 
and although they did their work better than was expected 
the same would have been performed by an equal number of 
European laborers in one-third of the time that it took them. 

To add to the discomfort of being in dock, the crew were 
allowed to go ashore at pleasure, and with their usual pro- 
pensity, the first place sought was where they could obtain 
liquor. As a consequence, the greater number would almost 
invariably return to the ship intoxicated, and there would 
follow the usual amount of shouting and fighting. A num- 
ber paid dearly for some of their antics while in this condi- 
tion, a summary court martial adjudging to each one the loss 
of three months' pay, thirty days solitary confinement on 
bread and water, and a sharp, cutting reprimand by the Cap- 
tain before the whole crew assembled at muster. In this in- 
stance fear seemed to operate well in controling them, for 
after a few had been punished the remainder were more 
thoughtful and prudent. 

Sadder than that of all the others, was the case of one of 
the firemen, who, in attempting to cross the narrow foot 
bridge which spans the creek back of New Town, while in- 
toxicated, fell into the water and was drowned. He was not 
found until the following day, when his funeral took place and 
he was buried in a lovely spot near the summit of a small 
hill on Danes Island. He was a quiet, good natured fellow, 
well liked by all the crew, and all felt saddened by his 
death. 

Although at times quite troublesome, yet on the whole the 
numerous curiosity dealers that thronged the wharves Ibrmed 
a pleasant feature of our stay in the dock. 

Articles of every description that they thought could pos- 
sibly attract were brought, from the richest silks and most 
costly boxes, to the small, cheap ivory buttons ; and, in the 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 255 

lively competition which was occasioned, an excellent oppor- 
tunity was afforded for making purchases. Of this opportu- 
nity all availed themselves, and purchases were made amount- 
ing, in the case of some who had an abundance of the "rhino," 
to as much as fifty dollars. 

While we were lying in dock an opportunity was afforded 
me of witnessing the summary punishment of crime by the 
Chinese, the offense in this case being that of stealing. It re- 
quired the closest attention, and most careful surveillance of all 
to prevent the Chinese from purloining the sheets of copper 
with which they were repairing the ves|el, and de^pite our 
vigilance, one day four of the workmen with a sheet of cop- 
per each, passed the guard and were some distance away from 
the ship before they were su.'>pected of thieving. Pursuit 
was immediately made, all of the copper recovered, and two 
of the thieves captured. These were taken before the Tau 
Tai of the district, who, upon hearing the facts of the case, 
immediately ordered them to be beheaded, and in less than 
ten minutes his command was obeyed. The condemned 
were let out into a court near the mandarin's house and there 
made to stand with the body inchned forward. Every man- 
darin of the rank of Tau Tai has an executioner in his suite, 
and this personage was then summoned and told to do his 
duty. The instrument which he used was a large, broad 
sword, which although it appeared heavy and clumsy, was as 
bright and keen as any razor. While the ea^e with which it 
was wielded, completely severing the head from the trunk, 
showed that the executioner was not unaccustomed to the 
duty. The bodies were removed, the heads placed upon 
stakes, and a placard posted up near by stating the circum- 
stances of the execution as a warning to all offenders. 

The crime of stealing is almost always thus summarily 
dealt with, and in Chinese law, ranks as the highest offense 
that can be committed. And this is necessary, for by less 
strict measures, where there is such a dense population, and 



256 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

where the mass are ignorant of those fundamental Christian 
principles of right and wrong, life and property would not be 
safe. It is truly wonderful how the Chinese, ignorant as 
they are of political economy, and destitute as they are of a 
knowledge of Christian ethics, manage to keep such a mass 
of people in order,' and preserve life and property safe for a 
moment. Probably the secret of their success is in the estab- 
lishment of the patriarchal system of government founded on 
the basis of filial obedience. The first principle in their 
moral code is the duty of children to their parents in all 
things, and the right of parents to dispose of their children. 
An idea of almost divine superiority of the parent over the 
child is cherished, and every disobedience of, or disrespect to 
parental authority is punished with the utmost rigor. No 
circumstances can arise in which a child is absolved from 
unqualified and the most implicit obedience to the parent. 

This same principle forms the basis of their political code. 
The Emperor is considered as their parent, and to strengthen 
this assumption, the idea of divine right is superadded. 
Heaven and earth are considered the parents of all mankind, 
and the Emperor, as the Son of Heaven, is the next in au- 
thority and reverenced accordingly. Both parents and rulers 
are far exalted above children and subjects, and receive not 
only homage, but worship. 

The parental prerogative has been the foundation of Chinese 
politics from the earliest antiquity, and is the source of the 
good order and peace which exist throughout the vast empire. 
For a heathen country, it may well challenge admiration for 
the wisdom of a legislative principle, which thus effectually 
unites and tranquilizes so great a nation. 

The emperor's ministers are by him called his " hands and 
feet," " his ears and eyes," and are responsible to him for the 
exercise of the authority delegated to them, with their for- 
tunes, and their lives. Any one of them, however high he 
may be in authority, can be submitted to the lowest indignity 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 257 

and made to undergo any punishment that a judgment or 
whim of the Emperor may determine upon. 

The prime ministers of state are called the " inner cham- 
ber," or " cabinet," and are four in number — two Tartars and 
two Chinese. This same policy may be observed in all ap- 
pointments of offices — of setting the two races to watch each 
other. 

Under this cabinet are the six tribunals, which take cog- 
nizance of their several departments and report to the em- 
peror for his decision and approval. The first is the tribunal 
of civil office, has a survey over the conduct of all magis- 
trates, recommends persons to fill vacancies, and suggests the 
propriety of promoting or degrading individuals according to 
their respective merits. 

The second tribunal is that of revenue ; its members take 
cognizance of the amount of the population, the collection of 
taxes, the coining of money, the expenditure, the income, the 
payment of the various officers, and the maintenance of the 
state sacrifices. 

The third tribunal is that of rites, having charge of all 
religious and state ceremonies, court etiquette, and astrologi- 
cal predictions ; the introduction and arrangement of nobles 
at the levees, and the etiquette there to be observed and the 
clothes each one is to wear. The imperial astronomers who 
prognosticate terrestrial affairs, calculate celestial phenomena, 
and predict lucky and unlucky days, come under the super- 
intendence of the board of rites. 

The fourth tribunal is that of war, which takes the super- 
intendence of the army, navy, and ordinance, appoints the 
number of troops assigned to each province, and attends to 
the management of all the defenses of the country. 

Next comes the tribunal of punishments, which appoints 
and removes judges, takes cognizance of all judicial pro- 
ceedings, and sees to the execution of the laws. 

The last tribunal is that of works, to which is committed 
12* 



258 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

the care of public buildings and construction of roads and 
canals. In addition to these tribunals there are various other 
officers ; such as the Colonial Board or foreign officer, the 
public censorate, which is allowed to reprove the emperor or 
any of his officers without being liable to punishment, and the 
members of the national college at Pekin, to whom all mat- 
ters with respect to literature, and many with regard to poli- 
tics are referred, while the principal officers of state are 
chosen from among them. 

The laws of China are numerous, minute, and circum- 
stantial, and in speaking of them, the Edinburgh Review 
says, " Tiiere is nothing here of the monstrous verbiage of 
most other Asiatic productions ; but a clear, concise, and dis- 
tinct series of enactments, savoring throughout of practical 
judgment and European good sense ; and if not always con- 
formable to our improved ideas of expediency in this country, 
in general approaching more closely to them than the codes 
of most other nations." 

Perhaps you may think my rather lengthy dissertation 
upon the Chinese political code, somewhat dry and uninter- 
esting, but I thought it would interest you to know something 
concerning their principle of government, and have made it as 
brief as possible. Now we will turn to a ramble which I 
had with a friend about Whampoa and surroundings. 

We took passage for shore in the bum boat, and while on 
our way. Old Sam's son invited us into the small room near 
the stern, which he calls his cabin. Immediately upon en- 
tering, he proffered us some mandarin wine, which we accept- 
ed. We found it to be superior to any of the many liquors 
manufactured from rice which we had before tasted, of a 
pleasant, spicy flavor, and, judging by its thick oily appear- 
ance, it must have been very old. He said that it w^as, and 
that it was very valuable, a pint of it costing upwards of 
eleven dollars. After partaking of the wine, he played for 
us upon his guitar, a comniiugling of weird and wild, yet 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 259 

strangely sweet sounds, which charmed us both. Hitherto, 
all the Chinese music which we had heaid had been so char- 
acterized by an entirely unmusical noise, or frightful shrieks, 
as to disgust rather than please us, and we had concluded 
that the Chinese were an entirely unmusical people; but 
Young Sam's music excited both our wonder and admira- 
tion. 

"VVe landed at New Town, and after an hour's ramble over 
it, decided upon the following description : It is situated at 
the lower end of Whampoa Island, and as the name implies, 
is of recent construction — having been built since the open- 
ing of the river to foreign trade. Here reside many Chinese 
merchants, and the most of the Europeans resident at Wham- 
poa. The foreign section is governed by a marshal under 
the direction of the United States Consul at Canton. 

Our intention before we went ashore was to take a stroll back 
into the country, rather than to stay about the town ; so, after 
this hour's look at it, we set out, armed with sundry refresh- 
ments, and with pockets full of cash. Just back of the town 
we came to the foot bridge which spans the creek where the 
fireman was drowned. The bridge is a rickety concern, and 
bad Enough to cross when sober. After crossing, and pass- 
ing a few scattered houses, we found ourselves fairly launched 
into the country. 

How strangely good and refreshing it seemed to be for a 
time away from noise and tumult, with some congenial spirit, 
in the quiet of the country! Such a beautiful, delightful 
walk as we had ! Oh, I would that I had the graphic pen 
of some to describe it ! Our walk for a time was upon a wall 
or bank, between a branch of the Canton river upon our 
right, and a series of paddy fields upon our left. On the 
river could be seen the many interesting phases of boat-life, 
of which I have told you in a previous letter; and also, I 
have spoken of the rice fields, but I will add a few words 
here. These are laid out in from one to ten acres each ; on 



260 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

every side is a ditch the dirt from which forms the raised 
wall or bank. Nearly every field has its threshing floor, 
which is simply a circular plot beaten hard. They have just 
finished harvesting one crop of rice, and are preparing the 
ground for another. Now to turn to the walk itself, some 
five or six feet high — it varies in width from six to fifty feet, 
and is for the most part covered with a luxuriant growth of 
vegetation — the sides being lined with beautiful shrubbery, 
and fine shade trees. Along this we continued our walk for 
two miles, until we were brought to a halt by a wide, deep, 
canal filled with water. To cross this we followed its wind- 
ings for half a mile or more, when we found a regular cross- 
ing, with an old sampan for a ferry-boat. We went on board 
of this and were ferried over, for which the fare was one 
cash each. After ascending the opposite bank, we entered 
a charming grove of fine old teaks, and passing through it 
over a wide paved walk, we found a Joss tower situated on 
an artificial island, surrounded by a wide, deep moat, filled 
with water, and spanned by an arched, stone bridge. 

Leaving this for a subsequent visit, we pushed on towards 
our destination — the old pagoda near the center of the island, 
and still some three or four miles distant. Our path after 
leaving the Joss tower was very winding and circuitous, in 
order to keep upon the banks between the soft, muddy paddy 
fields. The shade trees now changed, and were for the most 
part banana trees, which I, for the first time closely examined. 
After attaining to the height of five or six feet, they begin 
to put forth blossoms. These resemble an ear of green corn in 
form, and are of a reddish hue. As they grow the outer 
circlet of husks turns back, at the roots of which the young 
bananas are seen ; and thus they continue, circlet after cir- 
clet, until sometimes the bunch attains four feet in length. I 
noticed some bunches where there were blossoms at the tip 
and ripe bananas near the butt. 

When we had almost reached our destination, and were 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 261 

congratulating ourselves upon the rest we were then to have, 
suddenly our path turned nearly about, and it took us an hour's 
quick walk to reach the old decayed village near it. The 
only redeeming feature of this place was the wide, paved, 
and beautifully shaded walk approaching the bridge which 
spans the creek at the commencement. 

After passing through the town we ascended the eminence 
upon which the pagoda stood, and where arriving, we seated 
ourselves to rest, and enjoy the magnificent and enchanting 
view. In itself, the eminence is a beautiful, almost perfect 
oval, mound, the only one on the island, rising about one hun- 
dred feet above the level of the river, and being upwards of 
half a mile in circuit. It is covered with beautiful shrub- 
bery, prominent in which are many rose-bushes, covered 
with variously tinted flowers. Scattered around are several 
mandarin sepulchres. Near the center of the eminence 
stands the pagoda, an octagonal brick structure, about one 
hundred and fifty feet high, and divided into nine stories. 
The top is conical in form, and surmounted by a cross. On 
the upper projecting roofs are growing several shrubs, quite 
trees, in fact. How they came there, I cannot say, but sup- 
pose that the seed was carried thither either by the wind or 
by birds, and in the decaying wood-work found a soil in which 
to take root and grow. 

Leaving the eminence and turning to that beyond, before 
us and behind is a branch of the Canton river winding its 
way and covered with boats of every size and description. 
To the right Canton is dimly seen, while on the left is Old 
Whampoa, and all around both far and near, a beautiful 
intermingling of hill and dale, mountain and plain, bayou, 
river, and creek ; so enchanting us that we stood for a long 
time admiring it, drinking in its rare beauties, forgetful of 
how short was our time before sundown. But nearer than 
all, right before us is the pagoda resting upon a stone base 
four feet high, supported by sixteen stone images. To the 



262 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

pagoda there are two entrances, one on the northern and the 
other on the southern side. 

In entering I Avas surprised to find that the walls were of 
such enormous thickness, being no less than ten feet. At 
length we reach the inside and find nothing so very wonder- 
ful, aft'er all, to be seen, merely a hollow shaft about twelve 
feet across at the bottom and tapering towards the top. The 
whole is entirely destitute of ornament. Upon two sides of 
each story are openings, and upon the others are niches, where 
once idols were doubtless placed. The walls are covered 
with the autographs of those that have visited it ; one I saw 
from Bridgeport, Conn., 1842, but couldn't make out the per- 
son's name. Following the example of our predecessors, we 
placed our autographs upon the wall, and then with the sun 
an hour high, set out to return. 

In returning, we took a different and more direct route, 
which led towards Old Whampoa, and after passing through 
a "City of the Dead" upon a knoll near the walls, we came to 
the gates of the city. In our walk through the town we 
found the streets to be unusually wide, and what is still more 
unusual, that shade-trees by the sides of the streets and pretty 
squares and ponds, were numerous. By the Chinese them- 
selves it is regarded as one of their most pleasant and beau- 
tiful cities. In these a European seemed to be quite a 
curiosity, judging by the immense crowds that everywhere 
followed us, staring with open mouth and eyes ; and not a 
single Chinaman did we meet that could speak a word of 
English. We wandered about there some time in the vain 
endeavor to find any one to show us our way, until at last a 
bright eyed little boy, dressed as one of the higher order of 
Chinese, seeing our difficulty, came up to us, and by signs 
signified his ability and willingness to conduct us out of the 
city ; this he did, and refusing the offered reward, politely 
chin chined us off". 

On our way to New Town we saw a Chinaman engaged in 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 263 

ploughing. For a team he had a buffalo ox ; the harness was 
not unlike a horse harness, and was attached by a whiffle to an 
English-like plough, not differing materially, except in having 
but one handle. Leaving him, without further adventure, or 
meeting with anything of more than ordinary interest, we 
reached the ship a few minutes after sundown, both of us 
considering that it had been one of the most interesting and 
pleasant days we had spent in China. 

Another ramble a few days later presented us with much 
that was new and interesting. At a native apothecary's shop 
we saw a person grinding spices and other articles — learning 
the " rudiments " I suppose. The article to be ground was 
placed in a long, narrow, iron tray, and then a roller, fixed 
upon an axle-tree and exactly fitting the tray, was moved 
backwards and forwards upon the article — the Chinaman 
sitting down, and furnishing the motive power with his feet. 
Near by was another person engaged in grinding wheat. 
The grain was placed in a hopper, and from it passed be- 
tween two small mill-stones, which were turned by hand. 
In fact, all labor in China is performed without any aid from 
steam or water power, and all instruments employed are of 
the most primitive pattern. 

Farther on we were attracted by a Chinese printer's estab- 
lishment, and I think that some account of their mode of 
printing might be of interest to you. 

The art of printing was known to the Chinese more than 
nine hundred years ago; for, by reference to Chinese history, 
it appears that, in A. D. 926, the ruler of Tang ordered the 
nine classics to be printed and sold to the people. In the time 
of Confucius, books were formed of slips of bamboo, upon 
which they wrote w^ith the point of a style ; in A. D. 150, 
paper was invented; in 745 books were first made, and in 926 
they were multiplied by printing ; so that the Chinese appear 
to have made early advances in civilization, while we only 
discovered the art of making paper in the eleventh, and that 
of printing in the fifteenth century. 



264 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

Their mode of printing is of the simplest character, and 
although it discourages the compilation of new works, it has 
among its advantages those of speed and cheapness. Their 
language consists of a great number of characters, and instead 
of having an assortment of these, they prefer to cut the 
characters for each separate work, page by page. The first 
part of the process is to have the page written out in the 
printed form of the character, and is then transferred to the 
wood as follows : the smooth block is covered with a glutin- 
ous paste, the paper applied and allowed to remain until it is 
dry. When removed it leaves the inverted impressions of 
the characters upon the block. The engraver then proceeds, 
in a skillful and expeditious manner, to remove all of the 
wood around and within the letters. A page usually con- 
tains from four to five hundred characters, and will take a 
skillful and expeditious engraver from four to five days to 
prepare the block. 

The block thus prepared, now passes into the hands of the 
printer, who places it upon a table, with a pot of ink and a 
brush upon the one hand, and a pile of dry paper upon the 
other, and before him a rubber. The workman now pro- 
ceeds to business ; first, to ink over the block ; next, he 
smoothly places a sheet of the paper upon it, and then, after 
passing the rubber over it two or three times, the sheet is 
removed, and the same process repeated. An accomplished 
printer will in this manner make more than three thousand 
impressions in a day. The same process is gone through 
with other blocks, until the required number of copies of the 
whole book is completed ; then come the arranging, folding, 
and stitching, and ihe books are finished. Their paper is 
very thin, but very cheap, ten sheets costing less than one 
cent ; then, as labor is very cheap also, books in China cost 
almost nothing. The complete works of Confucius, with the 
commentaries of Choo-foo-tsze, comprising six volumes, and 
amounting to eight hundred octavo pages, can be purchased 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 265 

for less than twenty cents. Literature is thus brought within 
the reach of all, and it has been said with truth, that China 
has more books and more people to read them, than any 
other part of the world. 

Leaving New Town, we took a sampan and crossed over to 
Bamboo Town, and from the summit of the beautiful emi- 
nence which rises immediately in the rear, we had a splen- 
did view of the three divisions, the harbor, and the country 
for many miles around. This eminence is possessed by the 
Parsees, and by them used as a burying-ground — there being 
some fifteen or twenty of their square, box-like, stone sepul- 
chres near the summit. In all its outlines and adornments 
the place is exceedingly beautiful, and it forms a prominent 
feature in all the Chinese paintings or engravings of Whampoa. 

While we were up there we espied a native funeral pro- 
cession wending its way along the foot of the eminence, to- 
wards a burying-ground some half a mile distant — and we, 
out of curiosity, joined it. The order of the procession was 
as follows : a man carrying a pole to which were attached 
many and variously colored streamers — Joss papers ; one 
bearing dishes of food, drink, and fruits ; one with a bundle 
of small Joss papers, which he scattered right and left ; then 
the priest, beating a mournful march upon a pair of cymbals, 
and chanting an accompaniment ; after him was borne the 
corpse upon the shoulders of four men ; and then, mourners 
and friends brought up the rear. The chief mourners were 
dressed in sackcloth frocks and caps, while the others wore 
white sashes and caps. A crimson cloth covered the coffin. 
At the grave the collected Joss papers were burned, a prayer 
was offered by the priest, the articles of food were left, and 
the ceremony was over. 

Other funerals I have seen where the whole procession 
is led by the loud and rapid music — if music it could be 
called — of gongs, cymbals, and flutes. Then, in a box sus- 
pended from poles and resting upon men's shoulders, is a pio- 



266 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

roasted whole. After the priest, and slung on poles in the 
same manner as the pig, comes the coffin. Then follow five 
or six fancifully ornamented sedan-chairs, in each of which is 
some article of food, ornamented with wreaths and boquets 
of flowers. After these, come some dressed in white and 
wearing sugar-loaf hats, while behind all are the real mourn- 
ers, dressed in sackcloth; the funeral is made a wedding by 
the substitution of a gaily dressed sedan-chair conveying the 
bride. And the friends for the mourners, sons and near rela- 
tives, wear white silk or cotton braided in their queues for 
mourning, for the two or three years following a death. Blue 
is used instead of white in some of the northern provinces. 

After the funeral services w^ere over, having three or 
four hours to spare before sundown, we crossed to Bamboo 
Town and visited the Joss tower back of the town, which we 
had passed a few days before. It is a hexagonal brick struc- 
ture, about fifty feet high, divided into three stories, resting 
upon a granite platform five or six feet high and reached by 
a flight of stone steps on each side. The tower is sur- 
mounted by a conical-shaped, wooden roof. The grounds 
around are fine, and well kept. Across the moat is a brick 
house, where reside the priest and those having the care of 
the tower and grounds. A small present to the priest opened 
the doors for us, and we entered. The inside we found to be 
in good repair, with rich and gaily adorned idols placed in 
every story. A splendid and extensive view is to be had 
from the upper one. 

Our stay at Whampoa had been characterized by so much 
interest and freedom of action, that all regretted the orders 
of the Admiral to return to Ilong Kong, more especially as 
these orders were accompanied by others to get ready for sea 
as soon as possible, and start for the northward again. All 
dread the prospect of being farther north during the winter, 
for here we have to wear overcoats and miifl[lers during the 
night time, to keep comfortable. We left Whampoa the 23d, 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 267 

but, running aground, we were obliged to wait until high tide 
before we could get off, and consequently did not arrive here 
until the next day. 

The convening of a general court-martial, and the arrival 
of the holidays, have been the prominent events of our stay 
here this time. Upon Christmas eve many of the vessels in 
the harbor, as well as houses ashore, were brilliantly illumi- 
nated. All our crew were quite noisy and jolly — heightened, 
no doubt, by sundry bottles of ale and wine sent forward by 
the officers — and the singing, dancing, and other sports, were 
kept up until a late hour. Christmas was a beautiful day, 
and was celebrated by us in grand style. I thought many 
times of the dear friends at home, and would have liked to 
have been with them to have spent the day ; but as I could 
not, I contented myself with what I had, and can't say but 
that I enjoyed myself very much. It certainly was the 
pleasantest of the three that I have spent in the service. 
For more than a week preparations had been made for the 
dinner, and it was a perfect success — a complete triumph of 
culinary skill. I did not dream that the crew of a man-of- 
war could successfully conceive or prepare one, one-half as 
good. The bill of fare included : roast pigs, stuffed geese, 
chicken pies, roast beef and mutton, with puddings, pies, and 
fruits, for dessert. As an addition, the officers sent forward 
an abundance of ale and champagne to each mess, so that 
after dinner it was about as jolly a crew as one ever meets 
with. 

Nature would affirm that this day has been a lovely one ; 
for everything in it combined to make it so, — the air soft and 
warm, the sun shining brightly, undimmed by a single cloud, 
and everything so quiet and full of harmony. Yet it has 
been a sad and darksome day to many of us, — occasioned by 
the parting with ten of our shipmates, whose time had ex- 
pired, and who were transferred on board of the Supply, to 
be sent home upon the first opportunity. Nature's bright 



268 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

face seemed but to heighten our loss. One there was among 
them who had been to me as a brother for two years, and 
parting with him seemed like parting with a brother. I had 
put oflf saying the parting words until the last moment, but 
when that came I could not speak, my heart was too full. I 
could only grasp him by the hand, and let the adieu be a 
silent one. For two years we have had everything in com- 
mon — sharing all each other's joys, sorrows, and confidences, 
and thus weaving a bond of friendship which one can know 
or understand only by experience. 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 26J 



LETTER XXVII 

HUSETT, C 

January 22, 1867. 



IT. S. S. Wachusett, Chefoo, China, \ 



My Dear R. : 

Immediately after the transfer and the sad parting attend- 
ant upon it, orders were given to make preparations for get- 
ting under way, and in less than two hours we were steam- 
ing down the bay, on our way for the northward. In Ly 
Moon pass we housed topmasts and sent down the yards, as 
we had a strong head wind to steam against. The two days 
following were very unpleasant, — the wind strong, the sea 
rough, and with nothing aloft to steady her, the ship rolled 
and pitched about terribly, making all more or less sea-sick. 

The third evening out, the captain, apprehending a gale, 
with his customary forethought and prudence, put the vessel 
into Linchan Bay — a snug little harbor, formed by some 
barren, rocky islands off the coast, near Foo*chow. Fortu- 
nate for us was it that he did so ; for we had been anchored 
but a short time, when the wind began to blow in fitful gusts, 
and soon increased in fury to a regular hurricane, or typhoon, 
as they are called here in China. This continuing, we re- 
mained there for two days, when the wind lulled, the sea 
calmed down, and we proceeded on our way to Shanghai. 
There we arrived January 6th, having been but a week in 
the passage from Hong Kong, including stoppages, which, at 
this season of the year, is considered a good passage. 

Immediately after anchoring, money was served out, and 
the crew sent ashore on general liberty. 

One evening, a day or two after our arrival, we were all 
startled by a loud explosion, and a few minutes later an 



270 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

English brig, lying at anchor down the harbor, was seen to 
be on fire. The cutters were immediately manned and sent 
to her assistance, and in a short time succeeded in extin- 
guishing the flames. When tht-y returned to the ship they 
told the following story. Part of the brig's cargo consisted 
of powder, in kegs, and this they had been discharging 
during the day. Before sweeping up what had scattered 
from the kegs as they rolled them along, the mate lit his 
pipe, and while going about the hold with it in his mouth, 
he let fall some sparks upon the scattered powder, which 
communicating with a number of full kegs, caused the ex- 
plosion. Considerable damage was done to the vessel, two 
Chinese laborers were killed, and several were severely in- 
jured and burned, — among the latter was the mate. The 
cutters conveyed the injured ones to the hospital. 

For two or three weeks after the transfer 1 was terribly 
lonely, and would have given almost anything to have the 
transferred ones back again ; or, better still, to have been 
with them. I miss my "chum" in everything, and it does 
seem like beginning a new life to get along without him, — 
so long have we been together doing and using everything 
in common. I shall be so glad when my turn comes to leave 
this far away, heathen country, and start for home. 

There was nothing to occasion a long stay in Shanghai ; 
so, after four days occupied in giving liberty and taking in 
coal and provisions, we again made preparations to proceed 
to the northward. 

But I must not leave Shanghai without relating an inci- 
dent which came under my notice while on liberty there 
which, if it affects your risibility to such a degree as it did 
mine, I shall be amply repaid for the narration. 

While walking along on the Bund my attention was at- 
tracted by an excited crowd of Chinese assembled in front of 
the Custom-house. Arriving there I found that the excite- 
ment was occasioned by two Chinese, engaged in what was 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 271 

to me a novel combat. They stood about two feet apart, and 
were lashing one another about the head and face with their 
long queues. These they handled with such skill and fury 
that the face and arms of both were covered v/ith blood, 
drawn by the force of the blows. It required no small 
amount of dexterity to strike an effective blow with these 
queues^ grasping them as they did so close to the back of the 
head ; and it would not have failed to make you laugh, could 
you but have seen how they would ^uck their heads at each 
blow they gave, in order to add more effect to it. The com- 
bat lasted for upwards of fifteen minutes, until both of the 
participators were completely exhausted. The spectators 
appeared to enjoy it very much, and frequently encouraged 
the combatants with cheering words. I have never before 
witnessed this mode of warfare, but I am told that it is very 
frequently practiced. 

We were four days in making the passage from Shanghai 
to ©heefoo, the first two of which were quite warm and 
pleasant for the latitude and season of the year. The third 
day it was cold, stormy, and disagreeable, which increased 
rather than diminished on the fourth day, and making our 
visit to Cheefoo cheerless and dreary to begin with. 

However, we had a warm welcome from the crew of H. 
B. M.'s Gunboat Insolence, whose hearts we gladdened with 
the two months' accumulated mail brought up from Shang- 
hai — there being no regular mail communication with Che- 
foo during the winter season. 

Notwithstanding the cold and dreary sensation which we 
experienced upon our arrival, our stay has been a very 
pleasant one. The Captain has done everything that he was 
able to make it pleasant for us — having no w^ork done tha,t 
was not absolutely necessary, and had hoods put up at the 
"break of the forecastle," underneath which the men were 
allowed to have a fire night and day, and where they could 
sit, smoke, make and drink their coffee. 



272 



CHINA AND JAPAN, 



Here game of almost all kinds is abundant and cheap, so 
that as regards the inner man all would be content to remain 
at Chefoo the remainder of the winter. Yesterday while 
on shore I amused myself for several hours in shooting wild 
duck, which in immense flocks lined the water's edge only a 
short distance back of the town. 

After I had secured as much as I wished to take oflf to the 
ship, and having several hours left before the " sundown 
boat" would be sent ii^hore, I conceived the idea that I 
should enjoy a good skate on the little pond at the rear of 
the English Consulate's, which I had noticed was covered 
over with a sufficiently thick crust of ice. After racking 
my brain for a few minutes to think of a way and place 
to procure a pair of skates, I at length determined to go 
up to the Consul's and endeavor to procure a pair from 
him. Accordingly I went up there and stated my desire. 
He appeared to be much amused at my novel request, 
but after a few minutes' conversation he cheerfully loaned me 
the desired skates. I took them, went down to the pond, put 
them on, and skated away there hour after hour, with the 
deepest pleasure. At length the setting sun told me that it 
was time for the boat, so I unstrapped the skates and returned 
them to the Consul, with many thanks for his kindness. His 
name I have been unable to learn, but I shall ever think of 
him with feelings of gratitude for his kindness in cheerfully 
furnishing me with the means of an afternoon's deep enjoy- 
ment. 

We expect to leave here to-morrow for Corea, to investi- 
gate the circumstances attendant upon the loss of the Ameri- 
can schooner General Sherman, and the fate of the people 
on board of her, which vessel was wrecked there some time 
ago. It is feared that all on board of her at the time have 
perished — murdered by the natives. Our object in coming 
to Chefoo was to procure the Chinese pilot which was on 
board of the General Sherman a few days before her loss, 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 273 

and we are to take him with us to give such information as 
he may be able. 

We are also to take with us the Rev. Mr. Corbett, an Amer- 
ican Missionary at Chefoo, who is to act as interpreter, he be- 
ing thoroughly acquainted with the Chinese written language. 
This is the same in China, Corea, and Japan, but the spoken 
language is unlike, and even entirely different dialects are 
used in different provinces of the same country. As my let- 
ter is not very long I will lengthen it by giving you some 
little account of their language, as far as I have been able to 
learn, feeling sure that any such information will be of inter- 
est to you. 

The written language, as I have mentioned, is the same 
throughout the whole empire, and has been, for centuries, 
unchanged, while the spoken sounds vary in every province, 
and in almost every succeeding age. Both of the mediums 
of communication are of the most primitive order — the words 
monosyllabic, and the characters symbolic. 

The earliest traditions of the Chinese tell us that events 
were recorded by means of knotted cords ; their next ad- 
vance was to pictorial illustrations ; then hieroglyphics were 
employed ; and then, their last and greatest improvement, 
was made in the invention and increase of arbitrary marks — 
forming their present written medium. They assert that the 
idea of employing arbitrary signs was first derived from the 
tracings of birds' tracks in the snow, and from the marks upon 
the back of a tortoise. These signs are said to have been in- 
vented by Tsang-kee, upwards of four thousand five hundred 
years ago. 

Their characters are divided into six classes — the pictorial, 
the metaphorical, the indicative, the constructive, the deriva- 
tive, and the phonetic. The first bear some resemblance 
to the object ; the second derive their meaning from some- 
thing else ; the third convey their meaning by the formation 
o 



274 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

of the characters ; the fourth derive their meaning from the 
parts of which they are composed ; the fifth are other charac- 
ters slightly varied ; and the sixth are those in which the 
form and sound harmonize. Their fullest dictionaries con- 
tain more than thirty thousand characters, but hardly more 
than one-tenth of that number are in common use. 

Chinese characters appear complicated to one first observ- 
ing them, but a careful examination will show that there are 
but six distinct strokes employed — the horizontal, the perpen- 
dicular, the right and the left oblique slanting,* the hooked, and 
the dot. The whole number of the elements is less than two 
hundred and twenty ; but of these no more than one-fourth 
are commonly employed, of which again one-fourth are most 
common. 

Every character occupies an exact square, no matter of 
how many strokes it is composed, and a well written page 
appears divided into equal sections. They read from top to 
bottom, commencing at the right hand of a page, and at what 
would to us be the back part of the book. The paper is so 
thin that but one side of it is used, either in printing or Avrit- 
ing. Eighty or eighty-five leaves form a volume, and are 
always bound in thin paper covers. 

As the sound of each character is produced by a single 
emission of the voice, their spoken language is monosyllabic. 
Where two syllables appear to be, from the sound, it will be 
found upon examination that they are two characters joined, 
and where the pronunciation is written with a diaeresis, both 
vowels are, or should be sounded together. As their charac- 
ters do not represent elementary sounds, the Chinese know 
nothing about spelling. However, every word is divided 
into an initial and a final. By the union of these, nine hun- 
dred and forty-six monosyllables could be produced ; but less 
than one-third of this number are really extracted. At first 
it would seem impossible for the Chinese to converse with 
each other, with only three hundred monosyllables, but this 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 275 

is accomplished by giving to each syllable a variety of tones, 
easily discernable to the accustomed Chinese ear, but exceed- 
ingly difficult for a foreigner to acquire. 

The tones are five in number — the high, the even, the 
departing, the entering, and a lower " even " tone. These 
make fifteen hundred distinct utterances ; but no more than 
one-third of these are used. To prevent, in a great meas- 
ure, mistakes from having several characters to the same 
sound, the Chinese combine individual terms in set phrases, 
which are used hke our compound words ; so that it is neces- 
sary to learn, not only the characters and tones, but also the 
collocation of phrases, which are very extensively employed. 

With the exception of the United States, China takes the 
lead of all other countries in the number of its inhabitants 
which are able to read — it being estimated that at least one- 
half of them can do so. This is owing in part to the exceed- 
ing cheapness of all printed matter ; but more, probably, to 
the great inducements offered for learning. The most of the 
titles and positions of rank are not hereditary, and are to be 
attained only by merit. In this, education holds a prominent 
position, and through it, as in the United States, almost any 
rank and title can be reached. They have a proverb, and a 
true one, too, that " while royalty is hereditary, office is not." 

There has been so many strange things said about China, 
as well as other countries in the east, and so recently has it 
been opened to foreign insight and intercourse, that but com- 
paratively few have yet received authentic accounts of the 
manners, customs, laws, and other points of interest about 
the people — that out of the many things said, one hardly 
knows how much or what to believe. The people, judged 
by our own standard, are a strange people ; their customs are 
strange, and everything regarding their manners, dress, etc., 
are very strange. But they are a wonderful people after all, 
and their country is full of wonderful things. 



276 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

Perhaps you may think that I digress greatly from the 
main intent of my letters, but I can but believe that any- 
thing relative to these strange people will be of interest to 
you, and so shall continue to give them to you as they are 
brought under my observation. 



ANP A VOYAGE THITHER. 277 



LETTER XXVIII. 

U. S. S. Wachusett, Port Hamilton, Corea, \ 
February 2, 1867. ) 

My Dear E. : 

Before wandering off into Chinese language and literature, 
we were about leaving Chefoo for Corea. Towards evening 
we started, with a good " beam wind," and under both steam 
and canvas. Early the next morning we sighted the high, 
ragged, rocky coast of Corea. The forenoon we passed in 
cruising about a large bay at the mouth of the Ta-tung ri^er, 
engaged in taking soundings and bearings. The Ta-tung 
river empties its waters in Lat. 38° 04' N., and Long. 124° 
50' E., into a large bay some ten or eleven miles in diameter, 
surrounded on all sides by high, barren, rocky hills. This 
bay has several openings to the sea, by one of which we came 
in ; it is the largest of them all, being nearly a mile wide. 

We at length came to anchor near the mouth of the river, 
under the lee of Nein-Fo, or Cow Island, in seventeen fathoms 
of water. Upon this island is located the chief one of a num- 
ber of fishing villages, situated near each other. A visit from 
the inhabitants showed us none of the wildness and ferocity 
which the Coreans had been said to possess, in their looks and 
actions ; instead, they appeared to be an inoffensive, unarmed 
race, yet very rude and barbarous. At first sight they might 
be taken for Indians, or, nearer still, Japanese, but they do 
not closely resemble either — being about midway between the 
latter and the Chinese. Their skin is dark, almost copper 
colored ; they do not shave the head at all, but collect the 
hair all together and fasten it in a knot upon the top of the 



278 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

head ; their features partake of the characteristics of both 
races; their clothes are, for the most part, of skins, and 
made up for comfort, regardless of looks. They use stock- 
ings and sandals similar to those worn by the Japanese, 
but with no separate place for the great toe. Altogether, 
their appearance is inferior to that of either the Chinese or 
Japanese. 

The next day the chief's son was sent by us with a com- 
munication to the king of Corea, and also with a letter to 
the presiding officer of the province, Chang- Yuen-Heen. 
The following is a copy of the latter : 

( Copy. — Translation.) 

United States Steamer Wachtjsett, ) 
Mouth of the Ta-tung River, Jan. 24, 1867. ) 
Sir: 

The Commander of the American Armed Vessel Wachu- 
sett sends greeting to the presiding officer of the Province 
of Chang- Yuen-Heen, and wishes to inform his excellency 
that he has come to the borders of Corea, not to engage in 
war nor any unlawful business ; but is anxious that harmony 
and peace should exist, as heretofore, between America and 
Corea. 

" He respectfully requests that you forward the accompa- 
nying document to your king with all due dispatch. It is 
hoped that the answer to the accompanying document will 
be returned without delay, that he may depart without de- 
lay, in peace, from where he is now lying at anchor in the 
harbor of Ta-ping. 

Very Respectfully, &c., &c., 

(Signed) Robert W. Schufeldt, 
Commander of the United States Steamer Wachusett. 
His Excellency the Presiding Officer of the Province of 
Chang-Yuen-Heen. 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 279 

The following is a copy of the communication sent to the 
king : 

( Copy. — Translation.) 

"United States Armed Vessel Wachusett,") 
Harbor of Ta-ping, January 24, 1867. ) 

To His Majesty, the King of Gorea : 

The Commander of the American Armed Vessel Wachu- 
sett begs to inform your Majesty, that he has come to the 
borders of your kingdom, not to engage in war, nor any un- 
lawful business, but in obedience to the command of the 
officer commanding the American armed vessels stationed in 
these seas, who has learned with great pleasure and thank- 
fulness of the kindness of j^our Majesty's officers and people 
to the shipwrecked crew of the American vessel in the month 
of June last, on the west coast of Corea ; how your Majesty 
had them transported to the confines of China, from whence 
they safely reached their friends. The whole American peo- 
ple cannot but feel thankful, and praise your nation, for this 
act of brotherly love. 

The officer commanding the Armed Vessels of America 
has since learned with pain and surprise, that the people of 
another American vessel, wrecked in the Tai-tong river, in 
the Provice of Ping- Yang, in the month of September last, 
were all put to death and the vessel burned, and he has or- 
dered me to ask of your Majesty if this be true, and if true, 
to ask of your Majesty what evil these people had done that 
they should be made to suffer such treatment. But if any 
or all of these people are still living, the officer commanding 
the Armed Vessels of America has directed me to ask of 
your Majesy that they may be delivered to me on board of 
the Wachusett, now lying in the harbor of Ta-fung, near the 
Nein-fo islands, or at any more convenient port your Majesty 
may select. This is especially desired, that the peace and 
friendship, which has hitherto been uninterrupted for many 
years, may still continue between America and Corea. A 



280 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

speedy answer is requested to this communication in order 
that I may depart in haste. 

Very Respectfully, etc., etc., 

Robert W. Shufeldt, 
Commanding United States Armed Vessel Wachusett." 
His Majesty, the King of Corea. 

While awaiting the replies to these communications, a sur- 
vey of the bay and adjoining inlets was made, as there had 
none been made before. To the bay we gave the name of 
the vessel, and called the various inlets after our officers. 
Attempts were also made to establish and cultivate friendly 
relations with the natives. The inhabitants of the fishing 
villages appeared to be kindly disposed towards us, but in 
great dread of their government, and came as little in contact 
with us as possible. We saw no iron in use ; the boats were 
constructed with wooden pegs for fastenings, or bound to-X 
gether by coarse seaweed cordage. ''' 

One afternoon the old chief came on board, accompanied 
by several of the natives. His costume did not differ from 
that of the others in style or material, with the exception 
of having a covering of fine wire network for his "top-knot." 
Upon seeing it an old sailor remarked, " That ar's the old 
feller's winter cap, he has a cooler one for summer." He 
examined everything about the ship with the deepest interest, 
and seemed to be much pleased with everything he saw. 

Like the Chinese, the Coreans appear to regard filthiness as 
a virtue ; and if they are right in such a belief they are the 
most perfect race of people that I ever met with, for they 
are certainly the most filthy. Their appearance would tes- 
tify that water was unknown to them ; and then such lice as 
they had — ugh ! It makes me crawl to think of them ; and 
a certain old salt — noted for confining his yarns to the strict- 
est bounds of truth — said that he " saw them jump from the 
clothes of the natives into the rigging, run up it, and perch 
themselves upon the to'gallant mast truck, where they could 



A 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 281 

be plainly seen laughing at and making comments upon us 
down below." Was he not so well known as a person of un- 
doubted veracity, I could hardly credit the whole of his story. 
Be thi« as it may, it is certain that the Coreans are filthy 
and covered with vermin beyond description. 

All the natives to whom anything was said about the Gen- 
eral Sherman^ spoke with great reserve, but told the same 
story; — that the vessel was burned last September, up the 
Ping Ying river, and that all that were on board of her at 
the time, amounting to twenty-seven persons, were killed in 
a melee with the natives on shore, and not by order of the 
mandarins. The river v^^ill not be clear of ice for two 
months yet, and then a vessel cannot ascend more than half 
way to Ping-Yang-soo, the principal place on the river. 

The Coreans say that frequently the Chinese pirates make 
a descent upon the coast with their junks, and rob the inhab- 
itants ; and that ten of the crew of the General Sherman 
were of these pirates. This report was confirmed by our 
pilot. Mr. Hogarth, an English subject, who was on board 
the General Sherman when the disaster occurred, was well 
known throughout China for his reckless character, and his 
acquaintances think that if a disturbance was created, he 
took a prominent part. 

Tuesday morning, January 29, an officer who said that he 
came from Hai-Chow-Poo, the capital city of the province, 
fifty miles up the Ta-ting river, was brought on board by one 
of our boats for which he had signaled. The manner of this 
officer was haughty and imperious, and he presented in his 
appearance the most perfect type of a cruel and vindictive 
savage. His presence seemed to inspire the greatest fear 
and dread, and it is feared that the old chief, and the mes- 
senger, his son, will pay for their friendship towards us, by 
the loss of their heads. It is thought that he was either the 
governor of Hai-Chow-Poo, or some high official in his con- 
fidence. The interview with him, as usual, was carried on 
13* 



282 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

by writing — Mr. Corbett acting as interpreter — and resulted 
in a most unsatisfactory manner. He professed to know 
nothing concerning the General Sherman affair, and told us 
that we had better leave the coast. The main answer to all 
of Captain Shufeldt's questions was, that it did not become 
us to remain longer in the place, and earnestly hoped that 
we would depart and return to our own country. So all 
hopes that there would be found some peaceable and satisfac- 
tory solution of the Sherman affair, as well as to have discov- 
ered some of the crew still living, and rescued them, have 
proved futile, and the matter remains as before. With this 
conviction, and thinking that it would be useless to remain 
longer, we got under way that same day and started for the 
southward, our parting words being that " we should come 
again with more ships." 

Three days' steaming brought us to anchor at Port Ham- 
ilton, (Nanhoo,) among the islands off the southern coast of 
Corea. It is situated in Lat. 34° 01' 23" N., Long. 127° 
20' W., and about three hundred miles from Wachusett Bay ; 
but in the passage we logged four hundred and fifty-five knots. 

In connection with our visit to Corea for the purpose of 
inquiring into the Sherman affair, we were also directed to 
inquire into the advantages of Port Hamilton as a rendez- 
vous and sanitarium for the squadron, and also as a harbor 
of refuge in times of danger, for American commerce in 
these waters. 

The harbor is certainly a secure and lovely one. It is 
about two miles in length by one in width, oval in shape, and 
formed by two long narrow, and one small triangular islands. 
To this basin there is an opening, accessible to the largest 
vessels, on the southeastern side. It is also open to the sea 
for some distance on its northwesterly side, but a sand-bar pre- 
vents any but small boats from passing through this channel. 

The outside appearance of these islands is exceedingly 
bold, rocky, and precipitous, romantic and picturesque in the 



J 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 283 

extreme — nearly perpendicular for from one to two Imndred 
feet ; afterwards rising into peaks six or eight hundred feet 
high; then gradually sloping inward to the basin, and all 
forming a large natural fort, which might with a trifling 
amount of labor be rendered impregnable. Doubtless the 
whole is the top of a sunken volcano, and the spot where we 
are now lying at anchor, was once an active, burning crater. 
On account of the steepness of the outer side of these islands, 
only the inner, or those that surround the basin, can be 
brought under cultivation. These comprise about two-thirds 
of the entire area. The arable portions are in an exceed- 
ingly high state of cultivation, acquired only by an immense 
amount of labor, for the land is naturally very rough and 
stony. They are divided into small, rectangular patches, 
extend about two-thirds of the way up the mountains' sides, 
and are already green with the wheat sown last fall. There 
is but little that can be called terracing, such as is seen in 
China and Japan. Wheat and millet are the principal pro- 
ducts. In general the climate and vegetation are similar to 
^Jiose of China and Japan. 

The islands being separated on the northwest and south- 
east, the breezes from the sea have free access to the basin, 
and must render the air cool and healthy in summer, thus 
making the place an admirable location for a sanitarium. 

The inhabitants live in four villages, two on the eastern, 
and two on the western islands. They informed us that they 
numbered five hundred famihes, and reckoning five persons 
to a family this gives us two thousand as the total popula- 
tion — a rather low estimate. Their villages are very com- 
pact, and each house is surrounded by a thick, high wall, 
of small stones, laid up without mortar or cements A door 
is made in this wall, and a small house built near it, together 
forming a sort of " compound." 

Their houses are all very low, and have walls built of small 
stones, or a framework of wood with the interstices plastered 



284 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

with clay. The roof is a coarse thatching of straw, fastened 
down with ropes of the same material. The rooms have 
wooden floors, but are so low one cannot stand up in them. 
Through the open doors and a few small paper windows, a 
scanty light is admitted — sufficient, however, to show a com- 
plete dearth of any kind of furniture. In front there is gen- 
erally a rude piazza, where the people seem to pass most of 
their time when at home. Their streets are mostly very 
crooked and filthy, and narrower even than those of Chinese 
towns. 

They all dress with the greatest uniformity, in garments 
of the same pattern as those of the Chinese. White is uni- 
versally worn, and since we have been in Corea we have 
not seen a colored article of clothing. 

The government is patriarchal, the oldest men being the 
heads of the villages, and each village being distinct from the 
others. We have seen no animals of any kind during our 
stay, and the only trees in sight are a few small pines. Our 
intercourse with the natives was carried on by writing. Mr. 
Corbett acted as interpreter and scribe, and to him am I in- 
debted for such facts and incidents regarding the place as did 
not come under my personal observation during my rambles 
on shore. 

I have been particular in describing all that I have seen 
and heard regarding Corea, as I am firmly convinced that 
shortly it will be a place of great interest to foreigners ; and 
my slight acquaintance with the country and people has 
created a strong desire to prosecute this acquaintance much 
further. 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 285 



LETTER XXIX. 

U. S. S. Wachusett, Shanghai, China, ) 
February 24, 1867. j 

My Dear R. : 

We arrived here the 5th, having made the passage from 
Port Hamilton, Corea, a distance of four hundred miles, in 
forty hours. We found a mail awaiting our arrival, and 
were gladdened by news of friends at home. For the first 
time since we have been in China, I have not heard of this 
mail's bringing sad news to any one — one and all wearing 
smiling faces as they perused the contents of letters from 
friends near and dear. I would that it could ever be thus, it 
would make all so much happier and more cheerful. But so 
long as the world stands will there be sad partings and 
losses, nor can we reasonably expect that we should not have 
our share of all. 

When we left Hong Kong, our orders were, that after we 
had fulfilled our mission to Corea, we should return to Shang- 
hai, communicate with the Admiral, and there wait his orders. 
So we have been here ever since, our time employed with 
the usual port routine of cleaning up the ship, exercising, and 
taking in coal and provisions — yet finding a great amount of 
leisure for rest, and for doing whatever else our minds desire. 
Having myself little or no work to perform, and not being in 
a mood for reading or study, I have spent the greater portion 
of my time when not on duty, on shore, with one or two 
" congenial spirits " for companions. 

Rambles now about the Chinese quarter present us with 
new features in their customs, it being their New Year's holi- 
days. These commenced the latter part of last month, and 



286 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

properly ended on the 10th of this, in what is called the 
" Feast of Lanterns," but they are usually kept up for two or 
three weeks more. During this time the Chinese perform no 
labor except w^iat is absolutely necessary ; but, apparently 
forgetful of their usual thirst for gain, give themselves up 
wholly to the pursuit of pleasure. 

Upon the last day of the old year all are very punctillious 
jn balancing their accounts and settling the debts of the year, 
saying that they could not enjoy the festivities unless they 
had previously done so. 

A custom prevalent at this season of the year deserves 
special notice, and almost seems to have been derived from 
the command found in Deut. vi : 9. The entrance to every 
Chinese dwelling has depicted on the door and doorposts, as 
well as upon the cross-beams above, two or more antithetical 
sentences, chosen with great care from their most approved 
writings. The New Year's holidays are the period for re- 
moving the old sentences and substituting new ones in their 
places. The paper upon which these sentences are written 
is of various colors, but the general color is a deep red. 
"White paper denotes that the inmates have lost a parent 
during the past year. The second year's mourning requires 
blue for a father, yellow for a mother, and carnation for a 
grandparent. A light red indicates the third year's mourn- 
ing, after which the dark red is again resumed. 

During the entire holiday season the shops and houses are 
all open — fitted up for the new year's callers. Those that 
we visited had the walls hung round with favorite views, 
which are only used during these holidays, and which are 
then laid away till they come round again. At the farther 
extremity of the room stood a table upon which were placed 
the ftimily idols and the ancestral tablets. Upon another 
were various adornments and refreshments, and near it the 
host was seated. One calls — he is met at the door by the 
host, greetings are exchanged, and then he is led to a seat ; 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 287 

he then partakes of some refreshments, chats a few minutes, 
and after exchanging greetings again, he passes out. 

In walking through the streets you would think that the 
whole Chinese world was out of doors, not hurrying along 
intent upon their business, but leisurely promenading, with a 
smile and greeting for all. They appear to have wholly 
given themselves up to enjoyment, and to have forgotten that 
there is in the world a Fankwei whom by their religion it is 
their first and highest duty and pleasure to cheat, if no more 
than to the value of a single " cash." All were dressed in 
their very best costumes, and there was a profusion of the 
richest and most costly silks, satins, and furs — some valued 
as high as two or three thousand dollars. Such a costume 
will last a man a lifetime, and as there is no changing of 
fashion, he does not hesitate to put one-third or one-half of 
his fortune upon his back. 

In their, dress, however, the Chinese are very anxious to 
economize the soil. Barrows says, " that an acre of cotton 
will clothe two or three hundred persons," and as the cotton 
can be planted between the rice crops, and thus vary the 
productions and relieve the soil, they prefer such clothing as 
they can raise at the least expense of ground and labor. Cot- 
ton is thus the most common article of clothing worn — gar- 
ments of silk, satins, and furs, being substituted for it only 
on great occasions. 

A few days ago we had a visit from two French Catholic 
missionaries, — the sole survivors of the late massacre of 
missionaries and Christians here. While we were at Chefoo 
last fall a boat came in there from Corea, bearing these same 
two missionaries, who then reported the massacre that had 
taken place. They proceeded to Shanghai, and communi- 
cated the intelligence to Admiral Rosa, commanding the 
French squadron in these waters. The French are ever 
prompt and ready to avenge any wrongs done to their religion 
or to its ministers, and he, with characteristic vigor, immedi- 



288 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

ately organized a force and proceeded to Corea. He left 
Yokahama with his squadron in the latter part of August, 
but the expedition proved to be an unsuccessful one, the 
Coreans repulsing the French with considerable loss. They 
now have the coast blockaded, and are making preparations 
for another campaign, — this time with a greater force. 

Besides my rambles on shore, I have done an immense 
amount of ship-visiting since we have been in Shanghai this 
time, going on board of the men-of-war of the dififerent na- 
tionalities, and on three or four American merchantmen. Of 
the former, the pleasantest and most interesting visit was to 
the Prussian Frigate Vineta. She is a clumsy-looking, old- 
fashioned, single-banked frigate, but everything about her 
was so scrupulously neat and clean, and her crew so intelli- 
gent and courteous, that one could but enjoy a visit there. 

Of the latter I formed some very pleasant acquaintances 
in the officers and their famihes, and I have enjoyed myself 
very much in the numerous visits that I have made. We 
leave here to-morrow for our second trip up the Yang-t.-e- 
kiang, and, this time, I hope that it will be without any of 
those sad events which so painfully characterized our former 
one. 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 289 



LETTER XXX, 

SETT jEli 

March 13th, 1867. 



U. S. S. Wachusett, Hankow, China, \ 



My Dear R. : 

Six hundred miles into the interior of China! As far 
away from salt water as those living in Ohio ! If sight-see- 
ing was our onl^ object in view, we could n(^t be much more 
favored. 

The summary of places we have visited and sights we 
have seen during the past year, is a very varied, extensive, 
and interesting one. We have twice been the entire length 
of the coast of China, and several times over large portions 
of it, visiting all but two or three of its open ports, and many 
that are not yet opened to foreign intercourse ; been in many 
of its cities and towns, and up several of its rivers ; seen its 
great wonders, in fact, everything worthy of note, getting a 
good insight into the appearance, manner, and customs of its 
inhabitants ; visited the principal places in Japan — seeing 
nearly everything worthy of note there, and getting an insight 
into the appearance, manners, and customs of the Japanese ; 
passed through the inland sea (a trip in itself worth no small 
sum to sight-seers) ; explored somewhat the much talked-of, 
and, at present, interesting Corea ; and, at last, we find our- 
selves six hundred miles in the interior of China. 

The weather is quite warm for this season of the year, but 
far different from what it was upon our trip last summer. 
On the whole, it is as pleasant as we could expect, and the 
trip has been all that one could have desired. All of our 
traveling has been done in the day-time, anchoring every 
night, and, as the weather has been clear and pleasant all of 



290 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

the time since leaving Shanghai, every opportunity has been 
afforded for sight-seeing. 

We left Shanghai Monday afternoon, February 25th, un- 
der the charge of the captain of the Fire-Queen, with Dr. 
Toute (who has been appointed American consul at Hankow) 
and an English marine, as passengers. We arrived at Chin- 
kiang the 27th, and there remained two days, receiving 
visits from the consul and family, and also from several of 
the citizens from shore. With the exception of the weather 
we found that little change had taken place since we were 
there before. 

In passing by the point where the Grand Canal connects 
with the Yang-tse, the engines were stopped and we had a 
good view of China's second greatest wonder. I think that 
the Grand Canal, or Chah-ho (i. e., river of Flood-gates), 
called, also, Yung-ho (i. e., Transit river), in many respects 
reflects more credit upon its constructor than the Great Wall, 
and, at the time it was constructed, it excelled all other works 
in usefulness. By means of its connection with the rivers, 
there is a greater inland communication than any other 
country possesses. A large portion of the canal is con- 
structed by high banks an hundred feet or more in width, 
and faced with stone. Such was that which we saw. Stretch- 
ing along its banks as far as the eye could reach were vil- 
lages, or rather one continuous city, so close are the villages 
to each other, and crowding the canal were innumerable 
small craft. 

After leaving Chinkiang we anchored six times before 
arriving at Hankow, arriving here the 6th, but as we made 
no lengthy stay at any point, I will leave particular descrip- 
tions until we go down, when we expect to call at all the prin- 
cipal places, and will now confine myself to the general ap- 
pearance of the country. 

For the entire distance cities and walled towns are very 
numerous, and it is estimated that we passed within sight of 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 291 

• 

more than one hundred and fifty of them. A great same- 
ness exists in all. A stone wall encloses all towns of any 
size, and frequently the suburbs are larger than their enciente. 
The streets are not usually over six or eight feet in width, 
but the lowness of the houses makes them appear less like 
mere alley-ways than they would in western cities. Villages 
have a pleasant appearance, viewed at a distance, usually 
embowered in trees, among which the whitewashed houses 
look prettily. 

The Chinese delight in light and ornamental architecture, 
and in this they display great taste. They are also very 
skillful in laying out their grounds, and improving all the nat- 
ural features of the landscape. Their summer villas, gener- 
ally on the banks of some stream (they are very numerous 
on the Yang-tse) or on the border of a picturesque lake, are 
sometimes extremely fanciful, even bordering on the gro- 
tesque ; but often delightfully airy, comfortable, and luxur- 
ious. The situation is almost always skillfully chosen and 
artistically improved. The top of some rugged eminence, 
the slope of a jagged rock, or a wooded island is sure to be 
occupied by some fairy-like or fantastic structure, surrounded 
with flower-gardens and shrub-trees, with arbors and look- 
outs perched on the prominent points or nestled in the quietest 
nooks. 

These may be seen in almost every part of China, scat- 
tered here and there ; but the scenery at intervals along the 
banks of the Yang-tse river, near large cities, may well be 
represented as perfectly elysian. The wealthy mandarins 
have taken up every spot of land down to the water's edge, 
and appropriated them for villas, palaces, temples, pleasure- 
grounds and gardens. The water, too, may be seen thronged, 
day and night, with barges and pleasure-boats of every grade. 

On the lowlands rice is almost universally cultivated. The 
terrace cultivation renders the acclivities of many of the 
hills beautiful in the highest degree. The finest and most 
pleasing example of the terrace cultivation may be seen where 



292 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

• 

a valley or wide ravine runs up to the top of a range of hills, 
growing narrower as it ascends, so that, in the distance, it 
looks like a mammoth staircase for the gods. On these ter- 
races, as well as on the unterraced acclivities of the hills, 
grains and vegetables are cultivated ; sometimes rice is grown 
on them, and by means of reservoirs at the tops, the terraces 
are flooded by the water let down from them. 

And yet for all that I have said, elegance or ornament, 
orderly arrangement or grandeur of design, cleanliness or 
comfort are almost unknown in Chinese houses, cities or gar- 
dens. Everywhere the finest and most commanding situa- 
tions are chosen for temples or pagodas, which are not only 
the abode of priests and senseless idols, but also serve for 
inns, theatres, etc. A lofty solitary pagoda, an extensive 
temple shaded by trees in the opening of a vale or on a hill- 
side, or boats moving in every direction through narrow 
creeks or on broad streams, are some of the peculiar linea- 
ments of Chinese scenery. No imposing mansions are found 
on the skirts of a town ; no tapering spire pointing out the vil- 
lage church ; nor towers, pillars, domes, or steeples in the 
cities, pointing out the public buildings, rise above the walls 
or the low level of tiled roofs. No meadows or pastures 
containing herds and flocks are seen upon the hill-tops of 
China, nor are coaches or railroad-cars ever observed hurry- 
ing across its landscape. 

The right bank of the river is more picturesque than the 
left, on account of the chains of hills rising behind each 
other, covered with rich and varied foliage, and in many places 
sweeping down to the banks of the stream. Nearly as far 
as the eye can reach on the left bank, and also in many places 
on the right, the land is low and level and devoted to the 
culture of rice. The farther we proceeded up the river the 
more varied and picturesque we found the scenery, and the 
villages and towns appeared cleaner and more thrifty. The 
width of the river varies greatly, in some places being two 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 293 

or three miles, and in others narrowing down to less than 
half a mile. It is now at the time of high water, and many- 
places that we passed over, the pilot says, in the course of the 
summer will be dry land. 

One new feature in Chinese boat life we noticed in our 
passage up the river, in the large rafts floating upon it covered 
with earth and having grain and vegetables growing ; while 
in one corner of each would be seen a snug little house. 
Some of these floating farms would have half an acre of 
good land upon each, from which sufficient was raised to sup- 
port a large family. 

We passed, on our way up, several high, conical-shaped 
islands in the river, apparently inaccessible on every side, but 
whose summits were crowned by exceedingly picturesquely 
situated temples and pavilions. 

Hankow is situated on the left bank of the river, on a low 
plain about forty feet above the present level of the water. 
There is said to be fifty-seven feet difference between the 
high and low water marks, and that sometimes the inhabi- 
tants of the city go about the streets in boats. I was sur- 
prised to find so much of a foreign settlement here, when it 
is hardly five years since the first house was built. It is 
about as large as the English Concession at Shanghai, which, 
in general appearance, it closely resembles. Extending 
along in front is a fine wide " Bund," which, as we came up, 
was well lined with ladies and gentlemen who were out for 
an evening promenade in accordance with their daily custom. 

The town is upwards of one and one-half miles in length, 
and one in width, and never did I see a city with houses so 
uniform and so uniformly first-class as they are here. Most 
of them are two stories high, built of brick and painted. 
The streets are wide, and the town is very neatly and regu- 
larly laid out. 

Above this, and joined to it, is the Chinese quarter, about 
one and one-half times as large as the foreign. Extending 



294 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

around all but the river side of both sections is a wall and 
moat, constructed only two years ago. The wall is about 
thirty feet high, fifteen feet thick with a sloping, earthern 
embankment thrown np against it on the inside, and is the 
only good defense that I have seen in China. Upon the top 
cannon are mounted, and the tents of the garrison or guard 
are pitched along its entire length. Outside the walls, about 
seven miles distant, is another detachment of Imperial troops, 
numbering ten thousand. These are necessary to ward off 
the attacks of the rebels who are very numerous in this 
province. 

At the upper end of the city the Han river, a stream 
about one-third of a mile in width, empties into the Yang-tse, 
and on the opposite bank of the Han is the small, walled 
town of Han-yang. Across the Yang-tse from the last men- 
tioned city is the large, walled-city Wuchang — the capital of 
the province of Huph, and the residence of the military gov- 
ernor. It is said that " these three cities probably present, 
with the shipping before them, the largest assemblage of 
houses and shipping, inhabitants and sailors, to be found any- 
where in the world." The number of junks of the largest 
class is estimated at ten thousand, while the smaller craft 
number several times that. 

One day after a ramble about Hankow with a friend, we 
found ourselves on the banks of the Han, about a mile above 
the point where it empties into the Yang-tse. A glance up 
and down the river presented us with a scene of the greatest 
animation. In both directions as far as the eye could reach, 
the river was one living mass of boats. I had thought that 
the scenes in boat life in the river about Canton were almost 
too marvelous for narration, but those would bear no com- 
parison with the one before us, and, in my mind I could think 
of no more fitting comparison than that of a swarm of bees. 

Out of curiosity we took a sampan and started down the 
river, and there found ourselves in a business thoroughfare, 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 295 

exceeding in noise, bustle, and confusion, any of our large 
cities. 

One that has ever been in the midst of a frightened mul- 
titude endeavoring to escape from some imminent danger, 
can form some idea of the situation in which we found our- 
selves. The river was fairly choked by the dense mass 
of junks and smaller craft of every size, form, and hue, and 
engaged in almost every conceivable occupation. There 
were shops, restaurants, silk lacquer-wares, and ivory stores ; 
cobblers, menders of old brass, iron, and chinaware ; fruit and 
market stalls, and flower boats, besides those bearing burdens 
and passengers ; then the talking, shouting, and fighting of 
the men, the shrieks and cries of the women and children, 
and the crashing of boats, were such, that in comparison 
Babel would appear as quiet as an English grammar school. 

In such a crowded and busy thoroughfare, there seems to 
be but one law of the road, and that is, that the smaller boats 
keep out of the way of the larger ones, or else suifer the 
consequences. There is no such thing as giving half of the 
way. If a boat is upset no attention is paid to it by any one, 
but the occupants are left to right their craft and look out for 
themselves. Several times our boat was nearly upset by 
larger ones, but not the slightest attention was paid to us, fur- 
ther than a smothered curse for being in the way. Once 
when an old woman's market boat was upset by ours, our 
boatman was passing on without the least attention to the ac- 
cident, and appeared to be much surprised and very indignant 
when we compelled him to turn back and assist her in right- 
ing her boat and collecting her wares. Full an hour and a 
half were we in proceeding this mile, and when we reached 
the quiet waters of the Yang-tse we felt as if we had just es- 
caped from some desperate encounter for hfe. 

In crossing the river at Wuchang we were overtaken by 
a storm which well nigh swamped our boat, and drenched us 
to the skin. Ascending a short flight of stone steps from the 



296 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

landing, we fonnd ourselves on a prettily flagged Bund, 
about thirty yards wide in front of the city walls. These are 
very massive, full forty feet in height and from thirty to fifty 
feet thick, built of huge blocks of granite, some of which 
would measure twenty feet in length, by ten in width and 
thickness. I wonder where they got the power to move or 
place them ! Upon the top cannon are mounted and guards 
armed with spears, swords, and bows and arrows, are sta- 
tioned. The walls are five miles in circumference, and the 
city does not difier in general appearance from other cities 
which I have visited. The inhabitants seem to be if possi- 
ble rather more primitive in their manners and habits, 
and evidently regard Europeans with the greatest wonder 
and curiosity. Everywhere that we went we were followed 
by a great crowd of both sexes, and of all ages, and occa- 
sionally the muttered word " Fanhwei " could be heard. 

Two or three days ago the crew of an English and a 
French Gunboat, together with our own men, engaged in a 
variety of athletic sports on shore, which were witnessed by 
nearly all of the European residents and by an immense 
crowd of Chinamen. The English took the first prize in 
running and took the watch from the top of the pole ; the 
French excelled in leaping, took the prize in the sack race, 
and one little boy with his mouth caught the greased pig by 
the tail ; the Americans were victorious in the hurdle-race, 
in throwing the cricket ball and putting the shot, and took 
the second prize in running. It was a beautiful day, every- 
thing passed off pleasantly and in good order, and one and 
all seemed to enjoy themselves very much. To-morrow 
morning we start down the river towards Shanghai again. 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 297 



LETTER XXXI. 

, Sha 

April 2d, 1867. 



U. S. S. Wachusett, Shanghai, China, ) 



My Dear R. : 

The right bank of the river from Hankow to Kieukiang — 
a distance of one hundred and fifty-six miles, (and, indeed 
for some distance below) was lined with thousands and 
thousands of men, women and children, with their movable 
effects — refugees from depredatory excursions of rebels to 
the towns and villages on the opposite bank, on the even- 
ing of the day we left Hankow, and but a short distance 
above Kieukiang, I counted no less than eighteen large cities 
and towns in flames, while the glare of many more could be 
seen in the distance. At those near us the rebels could be 
plainly seen engaged in their nefarious work, and the shrieks 
and cries of their unfortunate victims distinctly heard. 

The founders, as it were, of this band, were a number of 
unpaid soldiers who commenced a series of depredations out 
of revenge. Frcm time to time they have received large 
additions in escaped convicts, outlaws, and adventurers, until 
now they have become a formidable body, and are dignified 
by the title of rebels, — :" Land pirates " would be a more ap- 
propriate name ; for they have no revolution in view, and 
belong to no especial party, but commit their depredations 
alike upon all that come in their way — plundering and burn- 
ing towns and villages and murdering all but the able-bodied 
men, whom they compel to join them. They are nearly all 
mounted, well-armed, and have many European adventurers 
among them as leaders. I will mention an incident of which 
I was a witness and which will convey some idea of their 
14 



298 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

cruelty. A junk load of refugees was just preparing to cross 
over to the other side of the river from one of the burn- 
ing cities, when they were surprised by a body of these hu- 
man fiends, and every one of the number brutally murdered. 
The junk was then plundered and set on fire. Thus far 
these marauders have confined their depredations to the left 
bank of the river ; but they are rapidly increasing in num- 
ber, and flushed with their recent successes, there is no know- 
ing what they will do next. 

We intended to make but a short stay at Kieukiang, 
but the foreign residents, apprehensive of a raid from the 
rebels, so earnestly requested Captain Shufeldt to remain, 
that he finally concluded to do so, and our stay was lengthened 
out to the 23d, when we were relieved by an English gun- 
boat. During the entire time immense crowds of refugees 
were constantly arriving, and it was estimated that there were 
more than fifty thousand of them encamped about the city 
walls. The many strange, sad, and even amusing incidents 
connected with the arrival and disposition of these refugees, 
the movements of the Imperial troops, and the patroling of the 
river by the Chinese gunboats, furnished us an abundance of 
excitement. 

The glare of burning villages could be seen nearer and 
nearer each night, and before we left the marauders had ap- 
proached within six miles of the city. There they made a 
halt and seemed undecided what to do next. I have not the 
remotest idea that they will venture to make an attack upon 
the city, so long as they know that there is a well organized 
and armed body of Europeans to defend it. There are up- 
wards of two thousand Imperial troops garrisoning the city 
walls, but they are worth absolutely nothing ; for besides be- 
ing poorly armed and equipped, and without any discipline, 
they lack the one thing essential to a good soldier — courage. 
In fact they are the most abject cowards imaginable. With 
a thousand well armed European or American soldiers, one 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 299 

might march from one end of China to another in spite of 
all that the Chinese could do to oppose them. 

It was very amusing to take note of the movements of the 
Imperialists — both the land and the naval forces. The gun- 
boats in great numbers were constantly moving up and down 
the river, beating gongs and firing blank cartridges from their 
single cannon in the bow. Similar movements might be ob- 
served among the land forces — the same beating of gongs 
and firing of guns, with the addition of a great display of 
flags, and of lights when the " grand rounds " of the city and 
encampments were made in the night-time. They intended 
to keep entirely aloof from all danger, and usually did 
so, but, one day when a body of them jv^ere patroling the 
river bank opposite the city, they unexpectedly encountered 
a body of rebels, and, as there was no means of avoiding it, 
battle was joined with them. This was certainly the most 
amusing thing which I saw in China, surpassing in noise and 
gesticulation any theatrical performance, but bearing thereto 
a most striking resemblance. 

The majority of the combatants sat down to drink tea and 
smoke their pipes, while the remainder, relieving one another 
from time to time, kept up a continual beating of gongs and 
tom-toms, firing of jingals, shouting, and waving of flags 
and banners. The contending armies were fully one-fourth 
of a mile apart, and during the entire engagement not one 
was killed on either side. At last, the imperialists, having 
displayed the greatest number of flags and made the most 
noise, were supposed to win the victory, for the rebels re- 
treated in the wildest confusion, after an engagement of about 
two hours. The imperialists immediately pursued, and put 
to death all the stragglers that fell into their hands, the num- 
ber of these being counted as the number killed in battle. 
The greatest excitement prevailed throughout the city and 
encampment during the progress of this engagement, and the 
wildest enthusiasm was manifested when the result became 



300 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

known. I should not wonder if it was dramatized, and the 
whole recorded as a brilliant feat of arms. It is said by 
those of good authority that this is a fair sample of the Chi- 
nese mode of warfare. 

A few words now about Kiukiang, and then we will go 
down the river about one hundred and fifty miles to Nankin, 
our next stopping place. Kiukiang consists of a large walled 
Chinese town, some four miles in circuit, with a small Euro- 
pean town at its upper side, all located on a beautiful and fer- 
tile plain on the right bank of the river. The town enclosed 
within the walls is old and fast going to decay, but the suburbs 
are surpassed by few cities we have visited in the wideness 
of the streets, the size of the buildings, and the richness and 
variety of articles exposed for sale in the shops. The foreign 
section numbers but few houses as yet, but it is fast growing. 
The chief exports are porcelain -ware and tea, Kiukiang being 
the center of the most noted districts in China for the man- 
ufacture of the one and the growth of the other. 

The manufacture of porcelain commenced with the Tang 
dynasty, A. D. 630, and although of late the Europeans have 
made advances in the whiteness of their porcelain, and the 
brilliancy of their colors, to the Chinese are we indebted for 
a knowledge of the art, and, even now, they excel in the 
compactness of the material and the fineness of the ware. 

A visit to a porcelain manufactory presents one with much 
of interest. First we notice a man preparing the paste from 
pih-tun, " white clay." This is done by mixing the clay 
with a powder, a bluish-white stone, to which is added the 
glaze-ashes, prepared from a kind of fern — all forming a thick 
paste. Another workman, by means of a lathe, fashions this 
into cups, vases, or such article as may be required, and then 
fits it to the mold. The excrescences are pounded to a milky 
consistency, and used by the painters, to whom the work next 
passes. Here we see two more employed, one engaged in 
drawing the outline, and the other in putting on the colors. 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 801 

The glazier sometimes does his work by means of a brush, 
but it is now nearly superceded by the blow-pipe. This con- 
sists of a tube about nine inches in length, covered at the 
end by a thin gauze, through which the workman blows a 
certain number of times, according to the size of the vessel 
or the consistency of the varnish. After the article has been 
committed to the furnace and burned for some time, the 
process is finished, and the ware ready for packing and 
shipment. 

China has not only furnished us with the cups, but also 
with the tea. Its first use is not known definitely, but was 
at a very early period. Before coming to China I was wont 
to hear that the only difference between green and black teas 
was, that the former was dried on copper plates, and the lat- 
ter on iron ones. This is not so, for both are dried in earthen 
basins, and the process I have described to you in a pre- 
vious letter. To those who have passed any great length of 
time here, there is no doubt that they are produced from 
entirely distinct shrubs, and in different parts of the country. 
However, there are many persons who are inclined to believe 
that they are both produced from the same shrub ; that the 
difference is owing in a great measure to the stage of the leaf 
when it is picked, to the difference of climate, and to the 
manner in which it is prepared. Be it as it may, there are 
in all thirteen kinds of tea — seven of black and six of green — 
occasioned by the causes just mentioned. The process of 
making tea has many times been minutely delineated in pic- 
tures, and described in books, but best authorities here in 
China say that the exact manipulations of the leaf is a secret 
known only by the Chinese. 

A few days ago I was shown a small quantity of tea which 
cost fifty taels (sixty-six dollars) per pound. This may seem 
incredible to you, but when I have explained the matter a 
little you will not wonder so much. The main cause of dif- 
ference between the different brands of the same kind of tea 



302 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

is owing to adaptation of the soil and the age of the leaf 
when picked. This brand of tea (green) is produced on a 
plantation near Nankin, and can be grown nowhere else in 
China. The leaves are picked immediately after the plant 
is out of blossom, and the leaves when cured are as small 
as the finest gunpowder. It is estimated that leaves sufficient 
to produce one pound of this tea, would make over thirty 
pounds if allowed to mature. It is all for the exclusive use 
of the Emperor and Governors of Provinces; unless it 
might be in a case like this, where one is allowed to obtain 
a small quantity, and is a rare token of great favor. The 
usual price here for the choicest brands of black tea is fifteen 
cents per pound, and green tea seventeen cents. 

Kiangning-foo, better known to you as Nankin, is the cap- 
ital of the province of Kiangsee. It w^as once the most 
celebrated city in the Empire in regard to the extent of its 
buildings and the character of its inhabitants. There are 
now to be seen the remains of an outer wall, which has been 
traced for thirty-five miles, but how much of this space was 
occupied by houses, is not known. The walls are now only 
about half as extensive as formerly, and hardly one-half of 
the space enclosed by them is occupied by houses. 

From where we lay at anchor I landed at a small walled 
village in front of the town, near which are three or four 
houses occupied by foreigners, the only ones at Nankin. The 
city lies back from the water about two miles, and is over- 
looked by high hills on the east, from which I had a good 
view of it. The northern, or river w^all, is formed by a thick 
embankment thrown up against and overtopping a high stone 
wall, and this is also true of the western face. The others 
are the customary brick walls, but of uncommon height and 
thickness. On the eastern face are two gates, and on the 
northern two. The city contains an estimated population of 
450,000, all of whom reside within the walls. 

The land towards the river is marshy, and the approaches 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 303 

to the gates are over stone causeways, but on all the remain- 
ing sides the country is beautifully diversified by hill and dale, 
hamlet and field, and is in a high state of cultivation. Nan- 
kin is the center of one of the most fertile as well as the most 
beautiful portions of the Empire, and I can conceive of no 
reason why the Emperor should have wished the capital re- 
moved to Pekin. 

In my walk through the city I found that it was very reg- 
ularly laid out, and in all respects well built. It consists of 
four wide and parallel avenues, intersected by others of less 
width. The part occupied by the Manchoos is separated by 
a cross wall from the Chinese town. Nankin has extensive 
manufactories of fine satins and crapes, and the cotton cloth 
which in European countries is called " Nankin," derives its 
name from this city. 

Paper and ink of superior quality, and beautiful artificial 
flowers, are also produced. I would have visited all these 
manufactories, but my time on shore was so limited that I 
could only take a passing glance at all the places and points 
of interest. Besides the manufactories of the above men- 
tioned articles. Nankin is also celebrated for its scholars and 
literary characters, and for being the residence of the gov- 
ernor-general of these provinces. 

Outside the southern walls of the city are the ruins of the 
celebrated Porcelain Tower, called by the Chinese, " Recom- 
pensing Favor Monastery," and which, probably as much as 
anything, has made Nankin noted abroad. But a faint idea 
of its former grandeur and magnificence can be formed 
from what is now remaining. From the description of it 
when in its pristine beauty and splendor, one can judge how 
much it surpassed all similar buildings in China in complete- 
ness and elegance, the material of which it was built, and the 
embellishments of its interior. Williams thus describes it : 
" Its form is octagonal, divided into nine equal stories, the 
circumference of the lower one being one hundred and twenty 



804 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

feet and gradually diminishing to the top. Its base rests up- 
on a solid foundation of brickwork twelve feet high, up which 
a flight of twelve steps leads into the tower, whence a spiral 
staircase of one hundred and ninety steps carries the visitor 
to the summit, two hundred and sixty-one feet irom the ground. 
The outer face is covered with slabs of glazed porcelain of 
various colors, principally green, yellow, red, and white ; the 
body of the edifice is brick. At every story there is a pro- 
jecting roof covered with green tiles, and a bell suspended 
from each corner. The saloons are more gaudy than ele- 
gant, and are filled with a great number of little gilded images 
placed in niches. This unique structure was completed A. D. 
1430, having been nineteen years building, and at an esti- 
mated cost of three million three hundred and thirteen thou- 
sand nine hundred and seventy-five dollars." 

The same aflernoon that I paid a visit to the city I 
witnessed a sham battle between divisions of the Imperial 
troops stationed at Nankin, which numbered about 60,000. 
All were armed with English muskets, and in addition they 
had several heavy pieces of ordnance. One division was 
resisting the attempts of the other to cross over a shallow 
ravine ; but after bciug repulsed several times they at last 
succeeded in crossing. The mano3uvies were admiiably 
planned, and the movements and firing were executed in as 
good order, and with as much regularity, as those of the best 
disciplined European troops ; and yet in actual fighting these 
soldiers are good for nothing, for their bodies control their 
minds, and will run away from all danger. 

The 27th we left Nankin for Chinkiang, arriving there 
the same day. We intended to remain at the latter place a 
few days ; but quite unexpectedly got under way on the 
morning of the 29lh and started for Shanghai, having on 
board Mr. and Miss Sands, and a Mr. McGowan — agent of 
the projected Russo- American Telegraph Company, as pas- 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 305 

sengers. We arrived here the next day, having been gone 
on our trip thirty-four days and logged twelve hundred and 
thirty six knots. It has been a trip full of interest and 
pleasure from beginning to end, with nothing to mar our en- 
joyment. 



14# 



306 CHINA AND JAPAN, 



LETTER XXXII. 

U. S. S.,"Wachusett, Ningpo, China,} 
April 22, 1867. j 
My Dear R. : 

We remained at Shanghai only a sufficient time to take in 
coal and provisions, and then, agreeable to previous orders 
from the Admiral we left there April 3d for Foo-chow, 
where we arrived the 6th. We went down by what is 
called the Inland Passage — having the main land on our star- 
board, and the Saddle Islands and the Chusan Group on 
on our port, and coming to anchor every night. We were in 
sight of land during the entire passage, but not until the 
morning of the 6th did we have a glimpse of anything ex- 
cept high, rocky, and barren ridges of hills. 

The scenery improved as we entered the northeastern 
of the two mouths of the Min River, which are formed by the 
large island Kin-pai-mun, some forty miles in circumference. 
In a short time we crossed the bar, and entered a fine circu- 
lar basin six or seven miles in diameter. Passing through 
this, we came to where the river suddenly narrows down to 
less than half a mile in width, and is overshadowed on either 
hand by ranges of hills from fifteen hundred to two thousand 
feet in height, defended by numerous batteries. Beyond 
these the river widens to about three-fourths of a mile, which 
remains the uniform width until Lo-sing-tah, or Pagoda An- 
chorage, some twenty-five miles from the mouth of the river, 
and nine below the city of Foo-chow, the place where all 
the foreign ships and large junks usually anchor, is reached, 
nothing that we have yet seen in Chinese scenery can excel 
the wild beauty and imposing grandeur of the river Min in 




iS 



m 



11 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 30 i 

approaching Foo-chow. On either hand is a lofty mountain 
chain indented with deep gorges or ravines down which ran 
beautiful rivulets leaping and dancing, the clear waters flash- 
ing in the sunlight through occasional openings in the pine 
groves with which the ravines and gorges are usually lined. 
Although exceedingly rough, with immense granite knobs 
jutting forth, these hills may be said to be clothed with ver- 
dure from the base to the summit. The less rugged are laid 
out in terraces rising one above another, sometimes to the 
number of forty or fifty. 

On nearly every hill were to be seen orange, lemon, and 
mulberry groves with varied and beautiful patches of shrub- 
bery. Of cultivated products wheat and barley were the 
principal. Although of a dilfferent composition, the scenery 
of the Min is said to bear a favorable comparison with that 
of the Hudson. 

" Pagoda Anchorage " is a lovely basin some eight or ten 
miles in length by six or seven in width, formed by the 
widening of the river. For some little distance inland the 
surface of the country is low and level and devoted to rice 
culture ; it is there all enclosed high, picturesque hills, and 
has been admirably likened to a vast amphitheater. During 
our stay there were quite a large number of merchant ships 
engaged in loading with tea and silks, which form the princi- 
pal articles of export. Presenting an interesting feature in 
the native boating-life are the boats decked out in evergreens 
and flowers, and many of the boat-women wear head-dresses 
of beautiful flowers. 

Pagoda Island, situated on the northern side of the 
anchorage, and about two miles in circumference, is for the 
most part an oval eminence, rising about three hundred feet 
above the level of the river. With the old Pagoda near its 
summit, the rustic cottages, grand old trees, fine shrubbery 
and luxuriant growth of vegetation, it forms an exceedingly 
wild, beautiful, and picturesque spot. On the southern * side 



308 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

are some eight or ten quite fine European buildings, and 
scattered all over the island are about one hundred Chinese 
houses. Just above Pagoda island the river unites from the 
division which occurs above Foo-chow, enclosing a fertile and 
highly cultivated tract of land. 

The old Pagoda, from which the island and anchorage 
derive their names, rests upon a stone dais seven or eight 
feet in height. It is an octagonal stone shaft about one 
hundred and twenty feet high and divided into seven stories. 
It is ascended by staircases passing through the pagoda from 
one side to the other, and opening upon a narrow platform or 
coping at the base of the story immediately above. Upon 
this coping one has to walk half way around the pagoda to 
reach the foot of the staircase of each succeeding story. The 
upper copings are much narrower than the lower ones, being 
barely eighteen inches wide, and are in a very dilapidated 
condition. At such a great height one is apt to feel giddy, 
and unless one has a strong nerve, the ascent is a dangerous 
undertaking ; it might easily prove a fatal one, as there is 
nothing to lay hold of, and a fall from such a height would 
be certain death. From the appearance of the top I should 
judge that formerly its height was one or more stories more 
than it now is, and I have been told that at the time of its 
construction there was a tower, increasing its height fifty feet. 
From the summit I had a magnificent view of the surround- 
ing country ; the river wending its way between lofty moun- 
tain ranges, and bordered by green paddy fields, beautiful 
groves, pretty hamlets and villages, and nine miles in the 
distance the large city of Foo-chow, with its celebrated stone 
bridge of forty-nine arches, its teeming river population, and 
two-tjiirds of a million of inhabitants. 

During our stay at Foo-chow, the ship was thronged at 
every meal-hour by peddlers, with their boat loads of soap- 
stone carvings. Boxes, plates, dishes, vases, and a great 
number of ornaments, were among the articles noticed, and 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 309 

many of them were very prettily designed and skillfully 
carved. So little compensation was demanded for them" that 
nearly every one made purchases, varying in value from a 
few cents to a number of dollars. 

Our object in going to Foo-chow was to meet the United 
States double-ender "Ashuelot" which vessel had lately 
arrived on the station, and had brought up stores for us from 
Hong Kong. Having taken these on board, we left there 
April 13th, for Ningpo. Abouc noon, the 16th, we arrived 
off Square Island — a small but lovely island off the mouth 
of the Yung or Tahiah river — on which Ningpo stands. 
About three miles nearer the coast we passed another small 
island, (Tiger's) on which was a light- house and signal- 
station ; and then, after proceeding a few miles further, we 
dropped anchor off Chinhae, a district town at the mouth of 
the river, and some ten or twelve miles from Ningpo. 

Chinhae is so situated and possesses such natural advantages 
that, with ordinary fortifications, it might be made to com- 
pletely command the passage. On the northern or left bank 
of the river, immediately below the town, is a high, rocky 
and precipitous bluff, accessible only by a narrow foot-path, 
which leads up from the sea. On the summit of this hill 
are the ruins of wliat must have been an extensive and 
strongly-fortified citadel. From the number of Joss temples 
within its walls, the eminence doubtless derives its name of 
"Joss-house Hill." At the time of the assault upon and 
taking of the place by the English in 1841, there was a 
greater loss of life than in any previous engagement, except- 
ing that at Chinkiang; indeed, after several ineffectual 
assaults, it was at last taken by stratagem. 

The town is connected with this eminence by a stone 
causeway, and with the eminence occupies a long, narrow 
tongue of land, having the river on one side and a deep 
bight of the sea on the other. Upon this latter side, some 
three or four miles in length, is a dyke, built of large blocks 



310 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

of hewn granite, which affords a good protection from the 
waves. The city walls are about twenty-five feet high and 
thick, and three miles in circumference, and the suburbs are 
upwards of one-half the extent of the enciente. The variously- 
colored tiles on the roofs of the houses ; the many fine, large 
trees ; the tall masts of the junks gliding along a small 
branch of the river which flows through the town, and the 
numerous pagoda spires, give to Chinhae an exceedingly gay 
and picturesque appearance. The country immediately 
around it is very mountainous and broken, but nevertheless 
very fertile and in a high state of cultivation, partly in the 
terrace form. 

After remaining at Chinhae two days, we, with a beautiful 
day and a trusted pilot, started up the river for Ningpo. 
Above Chinhae the hills gradually recede, so that Ningpo 
lies in an extended plain, stretching away some fifteen or 
twenty miles and uniting with the high, blue hills beyond. 
With the exception of the hills in the immediate vicinity of 
Chinhae, the view on that side presents nothing but the 
ocean. It all forms quite a varied and extensive prospect ; 
and the eye, in roaming over it, catches many a pleasing 
object. Landward it sees villages and hamlets, smiling cot- 
tages and family residences, pleasant fields and snug farm- 
houses ; temples, canals, and water-courses ; monasteries and 
family tombs, and numerous resting places of the dead. 
Seaward, a vast plain, stretching away to the ocean ; but the 
river is fairly alive with boats, and the banks are lined with 
ice-houses. These ice-houses are quite a novelty in them- 
selves, stone walls rising some eight or ten fe^i, and thatched 
over with bamboos and straw. At the rear of each one are 
large, shallow vats, where the ice is collected during the 
winter season. An hour's steaming brought us to anchor 
just below the city, where the river is about one-third of a 
mile in width. 

Ningpo-fu (?'. e., " Peaceful City,") is next to Hanchow, the 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 311 

most important city in the province of Chinkiang, and bears 
the deserved name of being the finest city on the coast open 
to foreign intercourse. It is situated on the left or north- 
western bank of the Tahee or Ningpo river, just below its 
junction with the Tsz-ki, which flows in from the westward, 
so that two faces of the city are defended by the river. The 
others are defended by a moat, nearly three miles in length, 
and in many places more than one hundred feet in width. 
By means of this the city is surrounded by water, and its 
site is often called an island. The city walls are about five 
miles in length, from twenty-five to thirty-five feet high, and 
so wide that three carriages can easily be driven abreast upon 
the ramparts. They are very solidly constructed, and are 
strengthened by huge square buttresses. There are six 
gates, besides two sally-ports for the passage of boats 
which ply on the canals wdthin the city. On the triangular 
tongue of land, on the northern bank of Tsz-ki river, is the 
foreign quarter, containing many fine buildings and upwards of 
one thousand inhabitants. 

But, come ! we will row our boat ashore, and see what of 
interest a ramble will present us. We land at a rickety 
wooden pier at the foot of the principal street in the foreign 
quarter. We make no stay here, but are brought, by a few 
minutes' walk through the extensive northern suburbs, to the 
floating bridge which crosses the river separating them from 
the city. This bridge is two hundred yards long and five 
wide, made of planks firmly lashed, and resting upon sixteen 
huge lighters, chained together, but which can be opened to 
admit of vessels passing up and down the river. Crossing 
this bridge through numerous market stalls, and amid ped- 
dlers and tinkers of every kind, we come to a toll-gate at the 
opposite end, and have to pay four cash each to the French- 
man who has charge, for the privilege of walking over. We 
are first attracted by a fine stone monument, not ten yards 
away. From its inscription we learn that it was erected to the 



312 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

memory of the officers, seamen, and marines of the French 
and English squadrons, who lost their lives in the attack on 
Ningpo, May 10th, 1862. It stands upon the spot where the 
rebel battery was planted. An hundred yards further on, 
upon the eastern side, and we arrive at Bridge gate, by which 
we enter the city, between two massive stone towers, more 
than fifty feet high. Here we are saluted by the Chinese 
guard, who are armed with old English tower muskets. 

As the first thing, we decide to visit their Tein-fung-tah, 
or " Heaven Conferred Pagoda," that being considered the 
greatest wonder and principal item of interest about Ningpo. 
With this in mind we make our way through several streets, 
and the court-yards of a neighboring Buddhist monastery, and 
are at length brought by our guide to the open space in which 
the tower stands. This space is overgrown with a thick 
herbage, and in it are several ancient tombs. Everything 
surrounding it bears a decaying and deserted appearance, and 
the tower, in many spots, is fast crumbling away. It is hex- 
agonal in form, has seven stories, and is more than one hun- 
dred feet high. Upon the projecting roofs, around the open- 
ings, and upon the roofs of the tower which surmounts it, 
plants take the place of ivy in decorating the aged walls, and 
give to the old tower an exceedingly picturesque appearance. 
The guide tells us that it was built nine hundred years ago, 
during the How-Chow dynasty, but that since that time it has 
suffered much from the elements, and many changes made in 
the repairs of it. Extensive repairs were made about twenty 
years ago, both inside and out. One marked feature in this 
tower is, that it leans so much that a line let fall from the top 
would strike the ground at least ten feet from the base. 

We have seen the outside, and now we will enter. This 
we find is impossible, until we have unlocked the door of the 
priest's heart with a handful of " cash," then he opens the 
door of the tower with his huge, rusty, iron key. In the 
lower story is a large collection of images, adornments, and 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 313 

the usual paraphernalia found in temples, but the upper ones 
are bare. A succession of rickety wooden stairs, two flights 
in each story, conduct us to the top ; and, as we gradually as- 
cend the view is increasingly extensive, grand, and magnifi- 
cent, until, at last, reaching the summit the entire city of 
Ning-po lies at our feet, and we have a complete view of the 
suburbs,*rivers, and much of the surrounding country. The 
many and variously-colored tiled roofs of the temples, the 
grotesque styles of architecture, the curiously sculptured 
arches, the various emblematic signs of civic authority, and 
the vast populace of a city teeming with busy toil, form the 
foreground of the picture, while the city walls, their dull 
monotony relieved by the high watch-towers, the suburbs be- 
yond, the river fairly alive with its numerous, busy popula- 
tion, and the verdant country stretching away as far as the 
eye can distinguish, dotted with villages and hamlets, snug 
farm houses and country residences, temples, grave-yards and 
monasteries, all combined form a view varied, beautiful, and 
grand. 'Tis a scene over which we might with pleasure 
spend hours drinking in its wondrous beauties ; but the short- 
ness of our time forbids more than a passing glance, and half 
satisfied we are forced to leave it and descend. 

Our next visit is to the Mahommedan mosque, near the 
centre of the city. The building is not extensive, but has an 
air of peculiar neatness. We cannot fail to admire some 
flowers that are tastefully arranged in the principal court, 
into which two or three dwellings open, and at the upper end 
of which the mosque is situated. 

We tell our guide that we do not care to remain here long, 
and request him to take us to a place of more interest. A 
few steps more and we enter h " sing-song house " and a tem- 
ple combined. The entrance to it is by the usual triple doors, 
under arches and through two or three courts, but everything 
is on a more elaborate and magnificent scale than is usually 
met with in Chinese cities. We find ourselves in a court 



314 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

about twenty yards square, entirely surrounded by a range of 
two-story buildings of the most approved style of Chinese 
architecture. Like the generality of the better class of Chi- 
nese houses, the one story is raised above the other by pillars, 
and each has a separate tiled roof, with many projecting cor- 
nices from which bells are suspended. The pillars upholding 
the roofs, and also the tripods, braziers, and other utensils 
employed in their worship, and ofttimes seen in court yards, 
are curiously and elaborately sculptured. The entire lower 
floor is open, facing the court, and the walls are hung with 
fine paintings of favorite Chinese scenes. From the roof of 
the first story on one side a balcony projects, where the or- 
chestra is located and the scenes enacted. The three other 
sides are open towards the court, and seats placed around, 
much like the dress-circles of our theatres at home. There 
are upwards of three thousand persons present, wholly ab- 
sorbed in the representation of some ancient deed of prowess. 
For the theatre in general, we are obliged to acknowledge, 
that the orchestra is far superior, the costumes more gorgeous, 
and the acting much better than any before seen in China. 

Upon the side opposite the stage and adjoining the theatre 
is a joss temple dedicated to the goddess Kwan-Yin, and, al- 
though quite small, it well-nigh dazzles one by the splendor 
and magnificence of its adornments. As a woman the most 
beautiful in form and feature that the Chinese mind could 
conceive of, the goddess occupies a central recess on one side 
of the building. Two other images similar in form but of 
inferior size occupy recesses on either hand, and these three 
are the only images to be seen. Offerings of almost every 
conceivable kind cover the large, curiously carved table in 
front of the idols. The walls are hung with rich paintings in 
the greatest profusion, while from the ceiling are suspended 
upwards of fifty large Chinese lamps with their sides of 
stained glass of almost every hue. In the midst of these 
hangs a golden chandelier, having sixty burners. The sun- 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 315 

light is purposely excluded from the interior of the edifice, 
and by the continual light of the lamps, the real beauties and 
gorgeousness of the temple are ever seen greatly heightened. 
The Confucian temple at Ningpo is somewhat celebrated 
the guide tells us, so we conclude to visit it next. Arriving 
there we find a large, plain, neat temple, and upon entering 
we see no idols, but in their stead some tablets, and a room 
very plainly furnished. The Confucian rehgion is the most 
honored, both by the government and by the learned, but as 
it has little or nothing to do with theology, and is merely a 
scheme of ethics and politics, from which things spiritual and 
divine are uniformly excluded, it seems almost a misnomer to 
call such a system a religion. He compares the government 
of a country to that of a family, and bases the whole upon a 
due control of self and the right management of the heart. 
He lays down the eolden rule of doing unto others as we 
would they should do unto us ; and lays the foundation of 
moral conduct in feeling for and excusing others, as we would 
for ourselves. According to his school, the five cardinal vir- 
tues are righteousness, benevolence, politeness, wisdom and 
truth ; and the duties of the human relations, those which 
should exist between parents and children, husbands and 
wives, princes and ministers, friends and companions. Of 
all these, filial piety stands foremost ; respect and reverence 
to parejits are required not only in youth but even until the 
latest period of life are they to be treated with honor, and 
after death they are raised to the rank of gods. This feeling, 
they say, is necessary to insure fidelity to one's prince, affec- 
tion for one's brethren, kindness to one's domestics, or sin- 
cerity among friends. This feeling, if conceived in the heart, 
and embodied in the life, will lead to the performance of every 
duty, and the entire renovation of the whole man. It is not 
to be confined to time and place, but is to be maintained, 
whether the object of our respect be absent or present, alive 



316 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

or dead ; and thousands of years after their death ancestors 
are still to live in the undiminished affections of their descend- 
ants. 

It is strange that while Confucius teaches such excessive 
veneration for parents, he should have entirely omitted the 
reverence due to the Father of our spirits. But thus it is, 
and, although from some expressions about "heaven" and 
the " Supreme Ruler," we might infer that the Chinese had 
some knowledge of the Creator and Ruler of the universe, 
and honored Him as such, their constant propensity to ma- 
terialism, proves that the system is destitute of the main truth 
which lies at the basis of all truth, viz., the being of a self- 
existent, eternal, and all wise God. In some of their earlier 
writings there are allusions which would seem to imply that 
at one time the Chinese had some idea of an universal Sover- 
eign, but the belief if it ever existed has since been eradicated 
by philosophy, or flung aside by vain conceit. 

This sect acknowledges a material trinity, called heaven, 
earth, and man. By the latter a few sages only are meant, 
and of these Confucius ranks foremost. By the Chinese he 
is often referred to with the expression, " equal to heaven." 
They even pay him divine honors ; for it appears, by refer- 
ence to the recent translation of a native work, that there are 
upwards of one thousand six hundred temples in the empire 
dedicated to Confucius. At the semi-annual sacrifices, in the 
spring and autumn, there are immolated to the manes* of Con- 
fucius about sixty-five thousand animals, and at the same 
time are presented nearly twenty-eight thousand pieces of 
silk. All these are provided by the government — and are 
in addition to the numerous offerings of private individuals. 

Instead of believing and teaching that the Great Spirit was 
the maker of all things, the Confucians hold that spirits are 
far inferior to the visible and material heavens, and even 
rank below sages and modern rulers. Confucius acknowl- 
edged that he knew very little about them, and therefore pre- 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 317 

ferred speaking about other things. His universal maxim 
was, " Respect the gods, but keep them at a distance ;" that 
is, "show them all due honor, but have as little to do with 
them as possible." It is customary with the Chinese to at- 
tach a presiding spirit to each dynasty and kingdom, to the 
land and grain, to hills and rivers, wind and fire ; while the 
four corners of the house, with the shop, parlor, and kitchen 
of every dwelling are supposed to be under the influence of 
some tutelary divinity. Confucius thought it necessary to 
honor these, but was averse to what he called flattering the 
gods by constant services. 

With regard to the future state the Chinese seem to be 
wholly in the dark. They speak of the intellectual principle 
as distinct from the animal soul ; but do not say anything 
about its existence after death. The idea of retribution is 
not connected with the invisible world at all ; but they im- 
agine that the rewards of virtue and vice are confined to the - 
present state, and if not dealt out in the lifetime of the indi- 
vidual, Avill be visited upon his children and grand-children 
to the latest generation. There seems to be nothing to allure 
one to goodness but the principle of pursuing virtue for its 
own sake. The Confucian doctrine in regard to human na- 
ture is, that men are born into the world free from sin or 
wickedness, but by intercourse with others they become cor- 
rupt and vicious ; but the sages, by their instructions awaken 
and renovate mankind when they revert to their original 
purity. Such is the outline of the honored state religion of 
Confucius. Of the other two religions of China I will make 
some mention in a future letter. 

After leaving the Confucian temple, and as we walk the 
entire length of Tung-mun-keae, — East-gate street, the prin- 
cipal one within the walls, there is much that is new and in- 
teresting presented to us. The streets are for the most part 
uncommonly wide, well-paved, and quite clean and neat. The 
houses are better than the generality of those in Chinese 



318 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

cities. Those of the better class are situated within small 
courts, the latter finely flagged, and ornamented with flower- 
beds, shrubbery, and shade-trees. In many of these courts 
are placed large vases, in which can be seen swimming gold 
and silver fish. The shops are unusually large and fine and 
well stored with rich articles. The chief curiosities to us are 
the many and various rich silks, and the picture-frames curi- 
ously carved from a species of soft, satin, white W'ood. But 
stop ! Close by the gate, as we are going out of the city, is 
the greatest wonder and curiosity we have seen to-day ; — a 
little Chinese boy with blue eyes and golden hair. 

Last Sunday we had the rare treat of having divine ser- 
vice, held on board ship. The pastor of the Congregational 
church here officiated and gave us an excellent discourse. 
But the treat to the greater portion of the crew, consisted, for 
the most part, in the addition made to our singing by several 
exceedingly attractive ladies who attended from shore. 

Soon after our arrival at Ningpo, a crack four inches long 
was discovered in our crank-pin. Since that time there has 
been much excitement over the many rumors about its hast- 
ening our return to the States. We expect to leave here for 
Shanghai this afternoon, where a survey will be held, and we 
shall then know something more definite concerning our future 
movements. 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. ' 319 



1 



LETTER XXXIII. 

U. S. S. Wachusett, Shanghai, China, 
June 24, 1867. 
My Dear E. : 

We have made the tour of China ; so I do not dislike the 
prospect of remaining here for a few months while repairs are 
being made on our engine, with the almost certainty that we 
shall start for home soon after the repairs are completed. 
There are some two or three more places that I would like to 
visit, but they hardly offer sufficient inducements to remain 
longer in China, away from home and friends. 

We arrived here April 24th, having been about fifteen 
hours in logging the one hundred and forty-one knots from 
Ningpo. The evening after our arrival we had a boat race 
between our second and third cutters. The distance was 
about five miles, for a purse of $70. The second cutter came 
in one and one-fourth minutes ahead, having made the dis- 
tance in thirty-one minutes. 

Although we have had considerable racing since we have 
been out, I have neglected to make any mention of it until 
now. We have two boats, a cutter and a gig, with which we 
intend to challenge and beat every boat of that description in 
these waters. The gig was built to order last year, and in 
every respect is a superior boat. In practicing, the racing 
crew man the boat and go on shore whenever there is an oc- 
casion for so doing, and we have daily practice besides. 

On the evening of the second day after our arrival here, 
the bells in English Concession commenced ringing the alarm 
for fire, and were almost, immediately followed by those of 
American and French Concessions, and the firing of an alarm 



320 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

gun by H. B. M.'s sloop Pelorus. Our fire company was 
immediately called, and dispatched to the scene of the fire, 
taking with them the fire-engine belonging to the Americans. 
It seems that the fire originated in some Chinese shops at 
the rear of the Danish Consulate, and spread so rapidly, that 
only the timely arrival of assistance and the most energetic 
endeavors prevented its becoming a very disastrous conflag- 
ration ; as it was, very little damage was done. 

The next morning the store ship Supply anchored near us, 
having been seventeen days from Hong Kong. She brought 
the promotions of several ofiicers ; and smiling faces, and a 
greater display of brass have since been noticed on our 
quarter-deck. Furthermore, the crew have benefitted some- 
what by the promotions, in the increased privileges which 
they have enjoyed, and the smaller amount of unnecessary 
duty required of them. Soon, however, the satisfaction de- 
rived from the knowledge that they in reality possess the 
long coveted grade, will be superseded in the minds of our 
just-fledged officers by the wish to exercise the new and in- 
creased authority, and then our benefits will be past. 

The first thing after our arrival here, the crew were set to 
work in making everything about the ship as neat and trim 
as possible. The task was completed Tuesday, May 7th, 
with the exception of the crank-pin, upon which the en- 
gineers are still engaged. The next morning the captain 
mustered the crew, and made them a little speech. He was 
glad that the men came off from their last general liberty in 
an unusually creditable manner, and so long as they con- 
tinued to do so, he should give orders that they might go on 
shore whenever they could be spared from the ship. He 
said also that he had made arrangements for having divine 
service held on board the ship, so long as we should remain 
here, which would be several months at least ; and, as it 
would do no harm and might do some good, he hoped that 
all would attend. His promise has been fulfilled and we 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 321 

have had good preaching, and in all respects exceedingly in- 
teresting services every Sunday since we have been here 
this time. We have a different minister nearly every Sun- 
day, but so far we have had none that we did not all like 
very well. Rev. Mr. Yates, who is at the head of the 
Methodist missions here, has held service more frequently 
perhaps than any other divine, and is rather better liked. 
It is really quite refreshing to see our ship when everything 
is prepared for the morning service. Both ship and crew are 
in their cleanest and best attire, and the quarter-deck is fitted 
up with seats and tastefully decorated with flags. Our 
church is getting to be quite fashionable, too, as may be seen 
in the increased number of ladies and gentlemen who come 
from shore every Sunday. The American consul, Mr. 
Bradford, has brought his melodeon on board, so that we 
have excellent music and singing, and the entire ser- 
vices are conducted in the same manner as in churches on 
shore. 

The spring meeting for the Shanghai races was held May 
8th, 9th, 10th, and 1 1th, and, with beautiful weather and an 
attendance of upwards of five thousand Europeans from all 
parts of China, was the most successful meeting that has yet 
been had. Several tickets were sent to our executive offi- 
cer for distribution, one of which I was fortunate enough to 
obtain. The first day I set out alone for the race grounds, 
which are located about two miles back of the English conces- 
sion ; but, being unacquainted with the locality, I was more 
than two hours in reaching them, and succeeded in doing so 
only after numerous inquiries and double the necessary 
amount of travel. I found that I was early, the ponies just 
being saddled for the first race. 

While waiting for them to get ready, we will have a glance 

at the grounds, etc. The course is a rude pentagon in form, 

one and one-fourth of a mile in circuit, divided off by tall 

white posts into fourths oi a mile. A portion of the track 

15 



322 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

has recently been ploughed up, and the rest is turfed over. 
Just inside this course is a second about one mile in circuit, 
on which, at short intervals, are fences, mounds, and ditches, 
for steeplechasing and scrambles. In the center of the 
grounds is a fine cricket field. Only a low fence surrounds 
the grounds, so that a good view of the races may be had from 
the outside ; but policemen are stationed all around to pre- 
vent any one from coming in, except through the main gate, 
where tickets are required. The enclosure where are the 
grand stand, stables, and promenades for the spectators is a 
fine grassy plot of about ten acres to the westward of the 
course. The stand itself is a fine, large, two- story building. 
On the lower floor is a restaurant, and the place where the 
riders are weighed. The second story is reached by a flight 
of stone steps, running the entire length of the building. It 
is open in front, with the seats slightly raised toward the rear, 
and now filled with the wealth, beauty, and intellect of 
Shanghai and other foreign towns in China. At the rear of 
these seats the band is placed. The top of the building is 
graded, and comfortable seats placed there. Over the front 
steps an awning is placed, and from staffs in front float the 
English, American, French, and Prussian ensigns. To the 
right of the stand is a fine two-story hotel, on the upper bal- 
cony of which are many spectators. In the rear of the stand 
are the stables for the horses, and in front is the judges 
stand. Close by, on a pole, is suspended a scale, with the 
number of the horses which are about to run. Both ladies 
and gentlemen have their betting books out, and almost 
every one stakes something. 

" They are off!" says some one close by me, and turning 
around I see some fifteen or twenty horses dash past, with 
riders dressed in tight buckskin trowsers, and different col- 
ored jackets and skull-caps. The English flat-races are all 
new to me, but it is certainly a splendid and exciting sight to 
see so many horses with riders thus gaily dressed, start off 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 323 

together, with whip and spur urged forward to their utmost 
speed. And great is the excitement as one gains, then loses, 
another gains, loses, and so on until at last they reach the 
gaol. The race over, the victorious horse is led in front of 
the grand stand, and whilst the band is discoursing some 
favorite air, the prize is given. That day there were seven 
races, all of them close and exciting. The last one was the 
most exciting of all, because the greatest sums were staked 
upon it, and the horse against whom the greatest odds had 
been given won the race. Many were the sad, woeful faces 
noticeable in consequence. 

I went again the 10th, accompanied by a couple of friends. 
One of them had been told that he could go by water to the 
race-ground, and not feeling very well, he concluded to do so, 
while the other one with myself decided to take the surer 
land route. Leaving him to scull his sampan up the creek 
past the English consulate's, we landed, and after a pleasant 
walk arrived at the grounds, some time before the race be- 
gan. Just after the second race our missing friend made his 
appearance, looking decidedly heated and dusty for one just 
off from an aquatic trip. After a few good wishes for his 
Chinese boatmen, he cooled down sufficiently to inform us 
that the lubber had taken him a long way into the country, 
and that finally he had to walk a much greater distance than 
he would had he come with us. The first four races of the 
day were flat races with Chinese ponies, close and exciting, 
but not differing materially from those of the previous day. 
The fifth race was a steeple-chase for all horses — distance 
three miles around the course, with six fences and six ditches 
to be leaped each time around. Only two horses started^ 
Kangaroo and Miss Mowbray. The former took and kept 
the lead, doing the leaps beautifully and making the three 
circuits in nine minutes. On the second circuit he fell over 
the last hurdle or fence, turning a complete somersault and 
throwing the rider, but inflicting no injury other than bark- 



324 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

ing his nose slightly. However he quickly recovered and 
finished the race without further accident. 

The last race was a scramble for all ponies — distance, 
twice around the course for steeple-chasing. Eighteen ponies 
started, and for a long time it was impossible to conjecture 
which would be the winner. Did one lead between two 
hurdles, he would get to the ditch just in time to be at the 
bottom of all the others, and so it would continue, first one 
and then another taking the lead, until finally, contrary to the 
expectation of everybody. Potshot came in first ahead of half 
a dozen competitors. The race was intensely exciting and 
amusing from beginning to end, and seemed to be enjoyed by 
all more than any other race of the day. 

Friday, May 17th, the several fire companies of Shanghai 
had a grand parade and collation. Our fire brigade manned 
the Hong Que steam engine. The following account I clip 
from the Shanghai Recorder of May 8th : 

"The trial of the fire-engines yesterday evening on the 
Bund, though possibly not quite so successful, in a purely 
mechanical point of view, as might have been wished, afforded 
much amusement and attracted a large number of spectators. 
As we mentioned in a previous issue, the nature of the trial 
was to ascertain which engine could throw water the 
farthest, both perpendicularly and horizontally. Two boat's 
crews from the Wachusett were in attendance, who, after the 
preliminary arrangements of stationing the engines and ad- 
justing the hose, set to work with energy upon Shanghai en- 
gine No. 1, which was under the direction of Mr. Holcomb. 
It soon, however, became apparent that the energy of the 
sons of Neptune was far more than the hose, which has with- 
stood for a lengthened time the enervating influences of the 
climate, could bear. From time to time shouts of laughter 
arose in different directions, as length after length of the hose 
gave way, treating the spectators to a shower-bath which, 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 325 

however cool and refreshing, was neverthieless a shade 
stronger than was expected by them. The hose in fact show- 
ed unmistakably that it was not unaffected by the hardness of 
the times and had a most decided tendency to "burst up." The 
results of the throwing of water, though satisfactory in one or 
two instances, the stream having gone considerably higher 
than Messrs. Dent & Go's flagstaff, cannot, on account of 
the defectiveness of the hose, be taken as a sample of what 
the engine, under more favorable circumstances, would have 
performed. It was not until the whole of the available hose 
had been tried that it was decided to replace No. 1 Engine 
by No. 2, when the men of the Wachusett moved her off 
from the Custom House jetty in earnest and rapid style, No. 
2 Honggur being pulled down with energy and rapidity to 
take her place. Indeed she was tugged along with such 
speed that it required as much energy to stop her before she 
got to the end of the jetty. 

"The Chinese coolies worked away at her with pluck ; 
but unfortunately the same results to the hose soon became 
apparent, as it "burst up" in one or two places. She threw 
the water notwithstanding to a good distance ; but it is of 
course quite impossible to form any estimate of the relative 
powers of the two engines on account of the defectiveness of 
the hose in both instances. The Chinese will, we think, re- 
quire some little drilling before they are able to turn their 
powers to proper account, or compete with the gallant sons of 
Neptune. The Municipal band were in attendance on the 
Bund and enlivened the proceedings by playing several 
pieces ; and a large number of spectators assembled to wit- 
ness the trial. 

After the trial, all repaired to the Imperial Hotel, where 
we found awaiting us an inviting repast furnished by the gen- 
erosity of the citizens of Shanghai. 

In a ramble within the walls of Shanghai a few weeks ago 
I met a French priest, called Father Valleur, with whom I 



326 



CHINA AND JAPAN, 



formed a very pleasant and interesting acquaintance. Near- 
ly twenty years of his life had been spent among the Chinese, 
and he had adopted their costume and spoke their language 
fluently. He was able therefore to penetrate almost any 
part of China, and learn almost everything regarding the 
manners, laws, customs, and religions of the people. I found 
him to be a man very willing to converse upon any subject, 
and give answers to all my numerous questions. The few 
hours that I passed in his society were full of interest to me, 
and I really believe that in that time I learned more about 
China than I ever did before in as many weeks, while de- 
pending upon my own observations alone. To his cordial re- 
quest that I would call upon him at his home, I replied that 
I should by no means deny myself so much pleasure and 
profit, as to neglect to further cultivate his acquaintance. 

You will doubtless remember my giving you a short de- 
scription of the Confucian or State system of religion — the 
first of the three sects into which the Chinese are divided. I 
then intended to give you some account of the other systems 
whenever a good opportunity should offer itself. In passing 
a pile of temple buildings near the southern gate of Shanghai, 
Father Valleur remarked that those belonged to the second 
sect, which is called Taou. Upon expressing a desire to 
learn something regarding their origin and tenets, he gave 
me the following account : 

The original meaning of the word Taou is, a way or path. 
Si principle — and the principle from which heaven, earth, 
man, and nature emanate. Xe is th e latent principle, and 
Taou is the principle in action. It also means a word, to 
preach, and to say ; and is very like the Logos, or the "eter- 
nal reason" of the Greeks. The founder of this sect was 
Laou-tau, who was cotemporary with Confucius ; but the 
Taou, or Reason itself, they say, is uncreated and underived. 
The votaries of this sect speak a great deal about virtue, and 
profess to obtain a greater degree of it, by abstraction from 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 327 

the world and the repression of every desire. By the morti- 
fication of every feeling, they claim to obtain perfect virtue, 
and to this end some of its votaries leave the busy haunts of 
men, and alone upon the mountain tops pursue their studies 
uninterrupted. They affect to despise fame, wealth, and pos- 
terity, claiming that at death all benefits and distinctions 
arising from them cease, and the labor bestowed upon them 
is thrown away. 

Great attention is paid by them to the study of alchemy 
and the transmutation of metals ; and by the combination of 
various elements, they endeavor to produce the philosopher's 
stone, and the elixir of immortality. Some claim to have 
discovered an antidote to death, and when the administra- 
tion of the heavenly potion does not produce the desired 
effect, they assert that the victim has only gone to ramble 
with the genii, and enjoy that immortality above which can- 
not be found below. 

It is narrated that a certain emperor, having procured the 
elixir at an immense expense, ordered it to be brought be- 
fore him. But while it was on its way from the compounder 
to the throne, one of his officers drained the contents of 
the cup. This so enraged the emperor that he immediate- 
ly ordered the offender to be put to death. He, however, 
coolly replied, that having drank the elixir, he was immortal ; 
either all their efforts to terminate his existence would be 
in vain, or else the whole system was false. After a few 
minutes' consideration the minister was pardoned, and the 
pretender banished from the empire. 

While the Confucians have hardly determined whether 
spirits exist or not, the Taou sect, is founded mainly upon 
their existence, and they profess to have intercourse with, and 
control over the demons of the invisible world. Chang-teen- 
eze, the principal of the Taou sect in China, is supposed to 
be immortal, like the Lama of Thibet, (or rather the place 
is supplied with a new occupant as soon as the old one dies,) 



'^28 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

and assumes an authority over Hades. As the emperor ap- 
points officers over certain districts and removes them at 
will, so does this demon ruler appoint and remove deities, 
and no tutelary deity is to be worshiped or is supposed to 
have power to protect his votaries, until authorized by 
him to exercise his functions in the particular region. 

From the power which this individual is supposed to pos- 
sess, everything coming from him is considered to be effica- 
cious in counteracting all noxious influences, and is sold at 
an enormous price. 

The Taou priests issue charms, or amulets, consisting of 
small scraps of yellow paper, with a few enigmatical charac- 
ters written upon them, from the sale of which they realize 
large sums of money. These charms are efficacious for only 
one year, and new scraps have to be obtained to frighten 
away the imps of the new year. 

After a death, the house in which it occurred has to be 
purified, and, as this ceremony is attended by considerable 
expense, it is no uncommon thing for lodgers and strangers, 
when dying, to be turned out into the streets. The purifi- 
.cation of houses is done by the prayers and sacrifices of the 
priests. A district is usually purified by the votaries of Taou, 
going barefoot over ignited charcoal. But the anniversary 
of the birth of the " high emperor of the sombre heavens" is 
an occasion most worthy of notice. The introductory cere- 
monies consist in chanting of prayers, ringing of bells, the 
sprinkling of holy water, the blowing of horns, and the 
brandishing of swords. A large fire, some fifteen or twenty 
feet in diameter, is made before the temple of this imaginary 
being, and the performers strike and beat this with the 
swords in order to subdue the demon. They then dash 
through the flames, barefoot, preceded by the priests car- 
rying the gods in their arms. The entire affiiir presents a 
scene of the wildest excitement, and all the participants act 
more like madmen than rational beings. 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 329 

The Taou sect worship a variety of idols, some of which 
are imaginary incarnations of Eternal Reason; and others, 
rulers of the invisible world, or presiding divinities of various 
districts ; among the rest are the "three pure ones," who are 
first in dignity ; the "pearly emperor," and "supreme ruler," 
the most honorable in heaven ; the god of the north, the god 
of fire, with lares and penates, genii and inferior divinities 
without number. 

My first introduction to the Cremorne Gardens was one 
pleasant evening in June when a number of us took a horse- 
back ride thither. These are situated about three miles back 
of French Concession, and to which we have since usually 
extended our almost daily rides. Immediately after landing 
we sent "boys" after some horses and a few minutes later 
they appeared with them. Horses ! did I say ? Like the old 
saying about tailors it would take at least nine of them to 
make one. Small, poor, scraggy, blind, lame, — well, not 
worth the space I am devoting to their description. But it 
was too late to wait for any better ones, so we concluded to 
take them and do the best we could. G. got the best one, D. 
the next best, and I by far the poorest. Well ! mounted and 
armed with good cudgels away we started. G. was off like 
an arrow, D. close after and I — I couldn't make my horse go 
faster than a walk, and sometimes not that even. At last we 
got the better of him, G. took position ahead, D. behind, and 
with all our combined efforts, we finally got him "under 
way," and thus proceeded to Cremorne Gardens. • The ride 
was amusing, if not pleasant, and exciting if not interesting. 
The night was dark, so that we saw comparatively nothing of 
the country, and the gardens were closed, so that after resting 
our horses a few moments, we returned with a repetition of 
the amusing and exciting ride, that we had when going out. 
Not satisfied with this visit to the much talked of Cremorne, 
a few days later another and larger party was organized to 
go out there. As before, we sent out for iiorses, which were 
15* 



330 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

speedily brought us. They did not, however, suit our exact 
tastes and remembering the experience of the former night, 
we determined to go to the stables and choose for ourselves. 
Arriving there first, I selected, as I thought, a fine, high spir- 
ited animal, and with a glance at the girths I mounted. But 
very few horses are seen in China and all these are owned 
by the more wealthy Europeans, who import them solely for 
their own private use. Still there are a large number of na- 
tive ponies seen everywhere. These are small, but smart, 
capable of enduring an immense amount of fatigue, and wiU 
go like the wind. They are quite cheap riding too, a good 
one, all equipped, costing less than a dollar per day. 

Well, after some little difficulty and delay, all were suited. 
We mounted, and with the ponies' noses turned Cremorne- 
ward, away we started upon a race over as fine, level, smooth 
and pleasant a road as I ever saw. The way was skirted on 
either hand by beautiful, smiling fields of rice, cotton, grains, 
and vegetables, and the entire country was evidently in the 
highest state of cultivation. The landscape, dotted with pretty 
villages and towns, snug farm-houses and rural hamlets, mo- 
nasteries, temples, and graves, stretched away in one vast con- 
tinuous plain, some eighteen or twenty miles, and melted 
into the high, blue hills beyond. 

. Upon leaving the city and passing the old tree near the 
northeastern corner of the walls, my mind would dwell upon 
the train of thought w^hich this same tree called forth from a 
distinguished writer twenty years ago : 

*' There is a delicious, eloquent communion, to be held with 
one of these single old trees standing in a vast plain, and you 
and he entirely alone — no fellows of his kind, and none of 
yours. I have enjoyed it on this day as I did in other re- 
gions. Just as the sun is setting, and you are hurrying on 
your way to escape the shadows and wanderings of the night, 
the old fellow beckons to you with a long and giant arm. 
Your heart turns to him, but your eyes are on the big falling 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 



331 



sun, and you think you will push on ; but there is so much 
beseeching in his moving arms, he is so lonely you rein up 
your horse to have a talk. He tells you of his chronology — 
of the vast and wavy sapling herds which stood around him 
in his green youth ; how man and storm and disease had 
taken all but himself; how he had looked down upon race 
changed for race — plain for city, and city again for field. 
"While you are thus absorbed by his eloquence, the shades of 
night are around you both, and he grows more animated as 
they fall around him. You bid him good-bye, and he waves 
you such a farewell, as his arms pass into the night shadows, 
as seems to dismiss you into eternity, while he promises to 
wait there and tell the same story, and yours, too, to some 
traveler of a future age, who may stand in j'-our place. There 
are few places where an old tree could tell more than one of 
these standing on the plains of China, on the banks of the 
Yang-tse-Kiang, and near the walls of Shanghai." 

Now, to return to the race. G led at first, but I soon 

passed him and was going at the " rate of sixteen knots per 
hour," when away went the starboard stirrup-strap, and was 
compelled to "haul up" for repairs. By the time I had 
completed them I was left far behind ; but, as the others 
were riding slowly I soon caught up, and away we went 
again. A break-neck pace for about a mile and I had passed 
them all but D., and for a long time we were " neck and 
neck." I don't know how the race would have terminated, 
for, after a few minutes' riding thus, away went my other 
stirrup-strap, and again I had to " halt" for repairs. A mo- 
ment after J. came up, and just after passing me his pony 
wheeled around (as they ofttimes will,. unless a strict look-out 
is kept) and he " hove to like a fillyloo bird on a fence ;" or, 
in common parlance was unhorsed as prettily as I ever saw 
any one, and plunged head foremost into a pool of dirty wa- 
ter, without, however, injuring him in the least. So long 
was I in making repairs this time that I was the last to 



332 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

reach the Gardens. Giving my pony into the care of a 
"boy" I went into the house, where I found the others en- 
joying themselves at the billiard table. 

Whenever you feel very thirsty on a hot, sultry day, if you 
have the ingredients at hand, just mix a mint-julep after Del- 
cour's receipt, and see if it don't refresh you as nought ever 
did before. To one-third of a glass of milk he added a little 
wine and a lump of sugar, then filling the glass up and put- 
ting in some bruised leaves of fresh mint he told me to "taste 
it." Nectar, egad. I thought I had never tasted drink be- 
fore so delicious and refreshing. 

Leaving the others to amuse themselves in their games, I 
lit a cigar and went out for a look at the house, grounds, and 
views. The house is quite a large, one story structure, di- 
vided up into bar, billiard, sitting, and dining rooms. Run- 
ning entirely around the building is a fine, deep verandah, 
protected by rolling blinds, or shades, and finely fitted up 
with card-tables and lounging-chairs. It stands upon a slight 
but beautiful eminence (the only one in sight) near the cen- 
tre of the grounds. These comprise about ten acres, taste- 
fully laid out in walks and drives, ornamented by fine shrub- 
bery, and plants, and beautiful flowers, and with charming 
little summer-houses scattered all over them. It is but a few 
years since the Gardens were laid out, consequently the shrub- 
bery and vines are quite young and small yet ; but, in the 
course of time this will be the most beautiful place about 
Shanghai. Even now it is a favorite place of resort on hot 
summer days for many of the citizens, and those visiting 
Shanghai. There they sit on the wide, deep verandah, en- 
joying the cool breezes in quiet, or admiring the beautiful 
prospect on every side, or engaging in games and socialities 
with one another; or, perchance, they ramble about the 
lovely grounds with a rest and a chat in one of tlie summer- 
houses or arbors, and food and refreshments in the house. 
I was startled out of a little reverie, into which I had fallen 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 333 

in one of the summer-houses, by one of the party's coming 
in and bidding me wake up and get ready for a ride to Sek- 
a-wai — a place some three miles farther back, and the site of 
a Roman Catholic college and nunnery. 

Our horses were led out, all equiped, so we mounted and 
rode leisurely along, the better to enjoy the beautiful scenery, 
and the many items of interest. Among other things we 
noticed on our way several low, square towers with a hole 
near the top on one side. These are houses built for the re- 
ception of the bodies of dead babies who are found thus or 
are put to death by their parents. Female infants being of 
less value than males make up the great mass of those with 
which these towers are filled. These, with a provincial Wei- 
Kwei, may be noticed near every place which we have vis- 
ited. The latter is the council hall of those who belong to 
another province, but reside for a time at Shanghai, and is 
also used as a place of deposit for their dead until they can 
be moved to their own province. The way side resting places 
for travelers, provided by the authorities, I have noticed be- 
fore, but think that I, as yet, have given no description of 
them. They consist of merely a low tiled roof supported by 
a brick or stone pillar at each corner, and covering low stone 
benches. 

Nothing of special interest occurred to the party on the 
ride out, with the exception of breaking an occasional stirrup - 
strap or saddle girth, and a harmless unhorsing. My absorp- 
tion in what was about me was broken several times by the 
curious capers of my pony, who, on two or three occasions 
rode down others of the party. Finally, when I was busily 
engaged in admiring the tiled roofs of the one-story cottages, 
with peaked and carved gables rising just above the line of 
high hedge fences, the eccentric animal coolly walked over 
the edge of the high bank of the canal along which we were 
passing, and rolled with me to the bottom. Fortunately there 
was no water in the canal at .the time, so I escaped with a 



334 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

« 

few slight bruises, and the soiling and rending of my clothes. 
There was no need of examining the pony to discover if he 
was hurt, for they are like India-rubber ; and really, I have 
no doubt but that the whole affair was viewed by him as a 
fine frolic. It certainly was by the whole party, anxiety for 
my preservation not being able to repress their mirth and 
uproarious laughter. I think my mind suffered most by the 
roll, for it had soared high in contemplating the picturesque- 
ness of my surroundings, and the fall was as great as it was 
abrupt. 

At Sik-a-wai, according to the usual custom, we were cor- 
dially and politely received by the French and Italian priests, 
and by them shown over the college buildings. These are 
quite fine and commodious, and kept in admirable order. 
There are at present upwards of five hundred children under 
instruction there ; and, as I watched them at their various 
amusements I could not help acknowledging that they were a 
very bright, happy body. They are generally the children 
of Roman Catholic parents, although there are some orphans 
whom they have taken. I was greatly struck and much 
pleased by the many articles of modehng, sculpture, and 
painting, which I saw about the buildings, executed by the 
teachers and students. 

After about an hour spent in a survey of the buildings and 
grounds, we returned to the gardens where we found the din- 
ner, which we had ordered, awaiting us, and to which we did 
ample justice after our long ride. After a game or two of 
billiards we returned to the ship. 

This synopsis of one day's enjoyment, which I have given, 
will answer for many others which we have had, and antici- 
pate having, during our stay at Shanghai, and by which we 
lessen what would otherwise be an almost unendurable long- 
ing for home and friends. The effects are seen in the spirit 
of happiness and contentment which pervades the entire crew, 
as evinced in their looks and demeanor towards one another; 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 335 

• 

in the almost entire absence of quarrels and fights, and in 
the lightness of spirits which nightly bursts forth in choruses 
that make the ship fairly tremble and can be heard for miles. 
It is evinced, too, in the alacrity and dispatch with which any 
required work is performed, and in- the many sports which 
have been revived and inaugurated. In arriving at this de- 
sirable state of affairs many thanks and much credit are due 
to the officers, who, in striving to lessen the hardships and 
unpleasantness of shipboard existence in avoiding all unneces- 
sary work and exercise, and in the privileges bestowed, can- 
not fail to have added greatly to their own happiness. It 
seems strange to me that this state is so seldom reached, but 
in almost every man-of-war in our navy, man is considered 
but little better than a brute or a mere machine, and is treated 
thus, according to the "ola custom." Let us hope that at no 
distant day those that man our war vessels will be treated 
more like men, and then will be seen a more efficient Navy 
than has heretofore existed. 



336 



CHINA AND JAPAN, 



LETTER XXXIV. 

\.CHUSETT, 

July 27th, 1867. 



U. S. S. Wachusett, Shanghai, ) 



My Dear E. : 

At last the repairs upon our engine are completed, and our 
pleasant and interesting stay of three months and a half at 
Shanghai is about to be brought to a close. I as yet have 
heard no definite announcement as to whither our future move- 
ments will tend, but the general expectation derived from the 
many rumors is that we are soon to start for home, returning 
by nearly the same route as we came out. I am not very 
particular by what route we go, but I do hope that we may 
start very soon. 

A few months ago an American bark was wrecked off the 
coast of the island of Formosa, and most of the crew, con- 
sisting of the captain and wife, two mates, and four European 
and seven Chinese sailors were murdered by the natives. One 
Chinaman escaped and also the captain's wife, who is said to 
be still a prisoner in their hands. 

The Ashuelot, after parting company with us last April, 
proceeded to Formosa and in conjunction with H. B. M.'s 
gunboat Cormorant landed an armed party to learn further 
particulars of the affair if possible. In this, however, they 
were unsuccessful, and being fired upon by the natives they 
concluded to postpone investigations until they could commu- 
nicate with the Admiral, who was then in Japan with the 
flagship Hartford, and the Wyoming. He arrived at Shang- 
hai, with both these vessels in the early part of June, and 
about the middle of the same month he left for Formosa. 
We should liave accompanied the expedition, if our engines 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 337 

had been in a condition to admit of our doing so, but they 
were not. About a week after their departure, they return- 
ed, and considerable excitement was caused by the news of 
their movements, and deeds while away. Although I have 
heard many versions of the affair from actual participators, I 
know of no more concise and truthful account, than the fol- 
lowing which I copy from the Shanghai Recorder of June 
20th, and which is regarded as semi-official. 

"The American Arms at Formosa." 
"A few days since the U. S. Ship Hartford, bearing the flag 
of Rear Admiral H. H. Bell, accompanied by the U. S. 
steamer Wyoming, Lieutenant-Commander Charles Carpen- 
ter, left the port of Shanghai for the south point of Formosa, 
to punish the Natives who inhabit that part of the island, for 
their murder of the crew of the American Bark Rover, which 
was wrecked there in March last ; and if possible to destroy 
any of their settlements which might be found in the vicinity, 
and to clear the country of the dense jungle which enables 
the savages to attack shipwrecked parties, and to conceal 
themselves when attacked. On their w^ay down the vessels 
touched at Takao for an interpreter, and received on board 
Charles Carroll, Esq., H. B.M.'s Consul, who had expressed 
a desire to go with the expedition. 

"On the morning of the 13th inst., the ship anchored off 
South Cape, and a party of sailors and marines, numbering 
in all one hundred and eighty men, were landed under com- 
mand of Commander G. E. Belknap of the Hartford, the 
object being to destroy lurking-places, houses and cattle of 
the Natives. After landing, the force in two detach- 
ments marched into the interior, and burnt a collection of 
huts which were found. Here the savages manifested an 
intention to dispute the march of the column, by firing from 
every hill-top and jungle. The men of the squadron were 
seldom able to get a sight of the enemy, and only knew of 



838 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

their proximity by the discharge of their muskets from the 
jungle and the gleaming of their gunbarrels above the foli- 
age. . 

" The savages by quick marches were driven from every 
hiding-place, and by 3 P. M. were forced three miles into the 
interior. The sun now began to tell upon the men, the ther- 
mometer standing at 92° in the shade, and several suffering 
severely from sunstroke, it was concluded to return to the 
ship. While at a halt, a party of the enemy fired a volley 
from ambush, at short range into the column. Lieutenant 
Commander McKenzie, chief of staff, who had volunteered 
for the expedition, immediately led a charge against them? 
and while at the head of his men was shot, dying almost im- 
mediately. 

" After driving the enemy again into the interior, and be- 
ing unable to penetrate it further, and there being no further 
object to be gained by remaining, the column returned to the 
ship, carrying with them the body of Lieutenant-Commander 
McKenzie, and several of the officers and crew, who were dan- 
gerously ill with sunstroke. Having burned their huts, and 
the jungle being too green to burn, the following day the ves- 
sels returned to Takao, where the remains of Lieutenant 
Commander Mc Kenzie were interred with military honors 
in the private burying grounds of the British Consulate, the 
use of which had been kindly offered by Mr. Carroll." 

There are various opinions and rumors concerning this 
affair and many conjectures as to what is to be done in the 
future ; but all seem agreed that as soon as it is cooler weath- 
er, and the undergrowth dry enough to burn, another and a 
mach larger expedition will be formed against the Formosans, 
and every precaution taken to ensure success. 

" Three pirates were condemned to be executed about a 
week since, and if you would learn another mode of Chinese 
executions, you can do so by going within the walls to the 
city prison," said a citizen friend to me some time ago. 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 339 

Having business within the walls that same afternoon I deter- 
mined to go to the prison, and arriving there I witnessed a 
mode of execution, at once the most shocking and barbarous? 
and beyond what I thought it possible for the human mind to 
conceive. The victims were placed in cages, some three feet 
square and seven feet high, made of stout bamboo splints. The 
head of each one was thrust through a hole in a board, or 
rather placed between two sections of a board, so fashioned 
that when joined together one edge was in the mouth and the 
other pressed against the lower and back part of the head, 
both sections meeting at the extremities. By these boards, 
they were triced up so that their toes barely touched the bot- 
tom of the cage and then left without food or drink under the 
guardianship of merciless Chinese soldiers until released by 
death. When I saw them they had been in that situation for 
nearly six days. Two died the day before, and the other was 
dying then. The look of agony which I saw portrayed on 
their countenances I never care to witness again ; it was hor- 
rible beyond anything the mind can conceive of, and utterly 
defies description. 

In returning from witnessing this horrible sight I was join- 
ed by friend A who, like myself had never seen a small 

foot, uncovered, and upon the subject being mentioned we 
determined to gratify our curiosity in that respect that very 
afternoon. For this purpose we secured the services of a 
little Chinese boy who said that he could guide us where we 
could see one. He took us to a house near the walls, where 
resided his mother and sister. For a long time both persist- 
ently refused all our entreaties, arguments or proposals, but 
at length, for the promised reward of half a dollar, the sister 
consented to uncover the foot. The shoe and stocking hav- 
ing been removed, several layers of bandages had to be un- 
wound before our curiosity could be gratified. Then we saw 
an ugly, ill-shapen mass, no toe excepting the great one in 
sight, that stunted and deformed, and the others turned under 



340 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

and grown into the bottom of the foot ; the heel about one 
and one-half inches long, and the bridge of the foot pressed 
up into the ancle, and there forming a large bulb. The foot 
thus compressed takes a shoe only about four inches long and 
two wide at the instep, terminating in a point at the toe. 
When a child is quite young the foot is encased in iron shoes, 
and kept there until the foot is stunted in its growth. 

The current statement of the origin of the custom of crip- 
ling ladies' feet is that Ta-ke, a wicked empress in the third 
century before the Christian era, during the Tsin dynasty, 
influenced her husband to issue an edict, obliging the Chinese 
ladies to make the Empress club feet the standard. 

The custom is less prevalent than it was a century ago, 
and is slowly falling into disuse. Probably not more than 
one-fourth or one-third of the ladies of the present day con- 
tract their feet, and those belong to the aristocratic class. 

When sitting down their feet do look quite cunning and 
pretty, encased in those cunning little shoes prettily embos- 
sed and embroidered ; but when they attempt to walk, or 
lay bare the foot, admiration instantly changes to pity or dis- 
gust. 

The "glorious Fourth" was duly celebrated here, and 
although quite rainy, it was well-enjoyed by the participators. 
All the vessels in the harbor crossed to 'gallant yards and 
dressed ship with the American ensign at the main, the flag- 
staffs of the Consuls and other leading men of Shanghai were 
also dressed, and from many a balcony the glorious Stars and 
Stripes were flung out to the breeze. At sunrise and at sun- 
set the American Consul fired a salute of thirty-seven guns, 
from four little pieces of cannon w hich he had mounted in 
front of his oflice. Murphy, "the Irish Consul" did likewise, 
and a continual firing of guns, crackers, etc., was kept up 
from morning till night, with a fine display of fireworks in 
the evening. Notwithstanding it was contrary to port regu- 
lations the Admiral fired a national salute at noon, having 



AND A VOYAGE THITHEK. 



341 



sent word to the authorities, beforehand, that he intended to 
do so, and would not be responsible for broken windows nor 
any other damage that might be occasioned by so doing. The 
dinner was in every respect a su.ccess, an advance even on 
that of last Christmas, and everything was done by "the pow- 
ers that be" to make the day a happy and a joyous one. By 
an order from the Admiral no one was allowed to go on 
shore, as so many English sailors were on liberty, and on this 
particular day, the chances were in favor of there being re- 
kindlings of the old revolutionary spirit. 

The great excitement and principal topic of conversation 
during the day, as well as many preceding and following it, 
were the boat-races between our vessel and the Hartford. Af- 
ter the many challenges, acceptances, backing outs, &c, the 
following three races were decided upon and rowed : Our 
gig, against the Hartford's second cutter against the barge, 
and dingey against dingey. The distance for the first two was 
about five miles, and the starting point our gangway. At 4 
P. M. the first race, that of the gigs, came off, for a purse of 
$150.00. As the gun was fired our gig started off splendid- 
ly, but one of the Hartford's crew at that moment took a 
cramp and threw two oars out of the rowlocks. Before they 
could get righted, our boat got at least three lengths ahead. 
The water was a little rough but our boat being heavy in 
build, paid no attention to that, and kept gaining steadily, 
while the Hartford's (like that of the Spanish Consul's, which 
we raced a short time ago,) would fairly jump ahead at every 
stroke, but would lose her headway when the oars were lifted 
from the water. Our boat turned the stake nearly half a 
minute first, and came in full four ship's lengths ahead, mak- 
ing the distance in twenty-nine minutes and twenty seconds. 
As the gigs came in both ship's crews "manned the riggings'' 
and the buglers struck up our boat's call, "The Mocking 
Bird." The barge and cutter, both twelve-oared boats? 
were already manned, and immediately took up their position? 



342 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

the Hartford's getting the choice. The race was for a purse 
of $120.00. The ships had now swung so that it was an 
exceedingly bad position for starting, between us and the 
Hartford. Just as the gun was fired for starting, the barge 
put off her hehn, tossed her port oars, and riding our star- 
board oars broke three of them ; then, immediately clearing 
herself made it appear as if it were all done according to 
previous intentions. Cheer after cheer went up from the 
Hartford over this maneuver ; but even with our boat thus 
disabled, the barge came in only forty seconds ahead, and 
then had the race declared "foul" by both umpires. The 
dingey race came next. Distance about a mile for a purse 
of $20.00. Nearly every one bet on the Hartford's and was 
certain that it would win, but ours came in full half a ship's 
length ahead. Three days after the Fourth, the race between 
the barge and cutter was tried over and our boat won by near- 
ly a minute. In all our racing we have never yet been beat- 
en once, but still fly the game cock with no one able to take 
it from us, and freely sing our chorus, 

For any amount you name 

Up to a thousand pounds, 
We'll pull any boat, in a Shanghai port, 

Or a thousand miles around. 

The most intense excitement prevailed during all the 
races ; riggings were manned from the tip of the flying jib 
booms to the royal-mast trucks ; cheering, throwing over- 
board old caps, etc, were freely indulged in, and the decks of 
the vessels as well as the Bund were thronged with eager 
spectators. All seemed to regret the foul race, for, with that 
exception everything went off in splendid style. 

Since we have been in Shanghai this last time I have at- 
tended church nearly every Sabbath eve, at the Episcopal 
chapel of the Americans, at Hong Que. There are many 
reasons why I enjoy going there very much ; the church is 
almost always full of American citizens, and it makes me feel 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 343 

for the time almost like being at home and among friends. 
The singing and chanting could hardly be surpassed any- 
where, and the beautiful service of the Episcopal church is 
most impressively read by the rector, while the discourses 
which he gives are ever full of good, plain, practical truths. 
Two or three Sabbaths ago he gave us a very interesting dis- 
course on the subject of "Missions in China." 

Commencing with the earliest accounts he said that Assem- 
anus assures us that Thomas the Apostle, having done much 
for the establishment of the Christian faith in India, passed 
over to a country in the East, called China, where he preach- 
ed the gospel, and founded a church in the city of Pekin. In 
the Chaldee ritual there is an office for the celebration of St. 
Thomas, which says that "by him the Persians, Hindoos, and 
Chinese were converted to the Christian faith." In confirm- 
ation of this he spoke of the early intercourse which subsist- 
ed between China and the West, stating that a Chinese gen- 
eral, who flourished before the close of the first century, ex- 
tended his conquests as far as Arabia and Judea, and that the 
famous Kwan Yunchang had left in writing an account of the 
birth, death, resurrection, and ascension of a Saviour which 
must have been derived from some indistinct traditions of 
gospel history. 

Chinese history further mentions, that about A. D. 150, an 
extraordinary person arrived in China, who taught a doc- 
trine truly spiritual ; and drew the admiration of all by the 
virtues he possessed and the miracles he wrought. 

The next intimation of the introduction of Christianity into 
China, he said was the celebrated marble tablet which was 
dug up in 1625. This tablet was between ten and eleven feet 
long, five and six broad, and surmounted by a small cross. It 
contains an inscription in the Chinese and Syriac languages, 
describing the principal doctrines of the Bible as contained 
in the first five books of the New Testament, and the history 
of its introduction into China. The inscription states that 



344 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

this occurred in A. D. 636, and under the reign of two em- 
perors, the preaching of the Christian religion was author- 
ized and supported. Then the Buddhist priests, jealous of 
the success of the new religion, instituted a persecution against 
it, which for a time diminished the number of the faithful ; 
but after a time, two able advocates were raised up, who soon 
brought the new religion into notice and royal favor once 
more. The emperor, Suth-tsung founded several churches ; 
and in order to perpetuate his good deeds the tablet was 
erected A. D. 782. 

Since that time the church has many times been bitterly 
persecuted in China, and all apparent evidences of the exist- 
ence of Christianity been rooted out ; still, persevering efforts 
have been made, and Christianity has had a foothold since 
the latter part of the sixteenth century. This has been 
slight at times, and held by the Jesuits alone until the com- 
mencement of the present century, since which time the 
Protestant missions have been gaining in numbers and 
strength, especially during the past few years. Instead of 
beginning at the top of society, he said they proposed to com- 
mence from the bottom, and aim to influence, first, the ex- 
tremities, and then the heart of the empire. With the love 
of Christ for their motive, and the salvation of souls for their 
end ; employing Christian benevolence and Christian intelli- 
gence as the means, and depending simply and solely on God 
for His blessing ; all true Christian workers may hope and 
beheve that, though slow their work will be sure, and finally 
effectual. 

Another visit to Father V. gave me an insight into the 
laws of China. These are numerous, minute, and circum- 
stantial, and are more worthy to be compared with those of 
civilized nations than it would seem possible that those of a 
heathen country could be. To a foreigner it does not seem 
hardly possible to have such an immense population united 
under one government. The secret of their success lies in 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 345 

the establishment of the patriarchal system, grounded on the 
basis of tilial obligation. The first principle in their moral 
code is that parents, having brought their children into the 
world, have a right to dispose of them as they think best ; 
and a child is never released from duty and obedience to its 
parents until death. 

This principle forms the basis of their political code. The 
emperor is considered as the great father of the Chinese 
races, and as such has absolute power over all. 

As he cannot attend to the administration of all the affairs 
of the empire in person, he employs ministers which are des- 
ignated as his "feet," his "hands," and his "eyes," but there 
is no one so high in authority but that he can be degraded 
and bambooed at the pleasure of the emperor. 

There are four prime ministers forming what is called the 
"Inner Cabinet." Two of these are Tartars and two Chinese, 
the usual way in which appointments are made so that one 
party may watch the other. 

Under these are six tribunals answering somewhat to our 
Heads of Departments ; the Tribunal of Civil Office, of 
Means, of Rites, of War, of Punishments, and of Works. 
Under these tribunals are officers appointed all over the 
country who report to them, and they in turn to the emperor 
and cabinet. 

Such is an outline of the government of the immensely 
peopled empire of China. I have given you but the outline, 
because I felt sure that a more lengthened account would be 
wearisome to you. It is now the " kite season " in China 
and in closing this letter, I will say a few words about kite- 
flying. 

While in most things the Chinese are no farther advanced 
than they were ten centuries ago, they are far ahead of all 
young Americas in the kite business. They have many 
strange customs, and not the least funny of them all, is the 
one they have of the old men flying kites while the boys look 
16 



346 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

on. But then a Chinese kite is an elaborate affair in com- 
parison with the tasteless sexagons and octagons with which 
our urchins besprinkle the atmosphere. Centipedes, sixty feet 
long, composed of split bamboo hoops, covered with light 
paper, and furnished with legs, immense moths, birds, and 
quadrupeds of all descriptions, fishes, snakes, and amphibi- 
ous animals hover in the skies of China during this season. 
Yes, kite flying is a grave affair in this country, and the so- 
lemnity is greatly heightened by the fact that grave yards are 
almost universally selected as the spots to fly them. 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 347 



ina, > 



LETTER XXXV, 

U. S. S. Wachusett, Pootoo, China, 
August 20, 1867. 
My Dear R. : 

We left Shanghai Monday, July 29th, with the express pur- 
pose of passing away the hottest weather in a cruise about 
the islands off the eastern coast of China, and recruiting the 
health of the ship's company. Our stay there of three months 
and a half with the thermometer standing at more than 100° 
above zero much of the time, had not been without serious 
effect on the crew, and before we left nearly one-third were 
under medical treatment. We had no prevailing epidemic, 
and but few serious, with no fatal, cases of sickness ; but 
there seemed to be a general weakness and utter prostration, 
that required a change. Indeed it was mainly upon the ad- 
vice of Dr. Jenkins of Shanghai, that the cruise was made. 
In a sanitary respect it has proved successful beyond the 
highest hopes and expectations of all. At no time since we 
left Boston have the crew been in as good health as now, and 
a more robust or cheerfulbody of men could hardl}'- be found. 
In addition to this, all will agree with me in saying that it 
certainly has been the pleasantest and most interesting month 
we have spent in China, or Chinese waters. 

Among the interesting incidents of our last few day's so- 
journ at Shanghai, were the sums contributed and presented 
to the representatives of the Catholic and Protestant Missions 
located there, thus showing that we were not unmindful of 
their exertions for our enlightenment and edification during 
our stay, nor ungrateful for them. One hundred dollars were 
raised for each, and placed in the hands of our Consul for 
presentation to them, accompanied by our most hearty thanks 



348 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

for their many kindnesses, and our best wishes for their fu- 
ture success. 

The moment we had cleared the mouth of the Whang-po 
river, and felt the cool, refreshing sea-breezes, uncontaminated 
by contact with the low, pestilence breeding swamps which 
surround Shanghai, a new life and vigor seemed to be infus- 
ed into all the crew, and from that moment the health and 
spirits of all began to mend rapidly. The next morning we 
anchored at the Ragged Islands, which lie to the southward 
and eastward of the city, and distant about eighty miles. There 
we remained nearly twenty-four hours while we had our 
quarterly target exercise with the battery, and the next day 
after steaming about sixty miles we dropped anchor off Square 
Island, which you will doubtless remember as being live 
miles from Chinhai at the mouth of the Ningpo river. 

By the steamer of the next morning from Shanghai, we 
received orders from the Admiral to proceed up to Ningpo, 
and there await the arrival of Vice Consul General Man- 
gum and wife, and Mr. Thorne — nephew of the late Captain 
Townsend — who were to accompany us on our cruise. They 
came down the 2d, and came on board the Wachusett the fol- 
lowing morning. A further addition to the party was made 
in the persons of a son of Dr. Jenkins, and two or three Chinese 
compradores and pilots. 

Everything being in readiness we weighed anchor a little 
after noon of the same day and started down the river. At 
Ningpo we had found the air, if possible more sultry and 
deadening than at Shanghai, and as we passed Chinhai and 
met the pure and refreshing sea-breezes again, I thought that 
they never seemed so good and life-giving as then. Our gen- 
eral course, after clearing the mouth of the river, was easter- 
ly, but very winding and circuitous, in order to pass between 
the many islands which extend along the coast. It was about 
5 P. M. when we dropped anchor at Tinghai, having logged 
forty knots since leaving Ningpo. 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER, 349 

The Chusan Archipelago belongs to the department of Ning- 
po, and forms the single district of which Tinghai is the capi- 
tal. It is divided into twenty-four chwang, or townships, 
whose officers are responsible to the district magistrates. The 
southern limit of the whole group is Quesan, in Kiu-shan 
island in Lat. 29-=^ 21' N. and Long. 120° 10' E, consisting of 
eleven islands. The northernmost is False Saddle Island in 
Xat. 35° 50' N. and Long. 122° 41' E. The total number 
of islands in the archipelago is over a hundred. 

The town of Tinghai lies on the southern side of Chan 
Shan, or Boat Island, from which the entire group derives the 
name of Chusan. This island is twenty miles long, from six 
to ten wide, and fifty-two in circumference. The general 
aspect of this as well as of the neighboring islands, is that of 
steep ridges of hills, occasionally running into peaks, but sel- 
dom exceeding twelve or fifteen hundred feet in elevation. 
Up these hills extend cultivated tracts, separated by fine, even 
hedgerows. Between these ridges, running from the centre 
of the islands to the sea, are fertile, well-watered, and highly- 
cultivated valleys. Across the mouths of many of the val- 
leys, a wall extends, so that in process of time they have been 
raised several feet by the deposits washed down from the hill- 
sides. In most of the valleys rice is cultivated ; while some 
of the hills are covered with tea-plantations, others with 
fields of sweet potatoes, barley or yams, and those that are 
not susceptible of cultivation are covered with the cypress 
and the tallow-tree. On the more elevated plains are seen 
growing fruits, cotton, sugar-cane, and vegetables of various 
kinds. The population of the entire group is estimated at 
three hundred thousand, of which Chusan alone contains 
over two hundred thousand. Those of the natives we have 
met with present an uncommonly healthy, cheerful and vig- 
orous appearance ; while beggars and persons diseased, which 
are so numerous in China, are seldom seen here. 

The harbor of Tinghai is on the southern side of Chusan 



350 



CHINA AND JAPAN, 



Island, and is formed by it together with five or six smaller 
islands. In form it is nearly circular, about three miles in 
diameter, surrounded by a cordon of hills, with four or five 
openings to the sea through which are received the refresh- 
ing sea-breezes. The town lies back some distance from the 
beach, on the inner side of the harbor, so that we are obliged 
to go on shore if we would see anything of it. I went ashore 
there several times : but the explorations of the first day, 
when I was accompanied by two or three friends, were so 
thorough that no subsequent visit revealed any new thing wor- 
thy of note. 

We landed at the suburb of Ta Tautau, a small village 
where are the custom house and principal landing-place. 
Along the beach, in front of this suburb, extends a heavy 
stone wall covered with earth, and nearly grass-grown ; on 
its summit, on rickety carriages several old pieces of ordi- 
nance are mounted. At the eastern extremity of this em- 
bankment is a high, rocky eminence, its summit crowned by a 
strong Chinese citadel, called Pagoda Fort, from a joss tower 
there located. From this fort the English received the great- 
est opposition at the time of their capture of the island in 
1843. 

The valley of Yung-tung, in which the district town of Ting- 
hai lies, is about two and one-half miles wide, and is one of 
the most beautiful that I ever saw, particularly that half- 
mile of its length which intervenes between the town and its 
suburb, Ta Tautau. There everything in nature and art 
seems to be blended to make it beautiful. Two canals, large 
enough for boats, lead from the harbor to the city, and we 
might have gone up by water, but preferred walking over the 
fine stone causeway which extends from Ta Tautau to the 
south gate. A delightful walk of a few minutes brought us 
to the bridge which spans a moat, some thirty feet wide and 
ten deep. This moat entirely surrounds the city, with the 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 351 

exception of a portion of the western side, and enters it, near 
the South gate. 

Entering the city by this gate and ramhh'ng about there a 
while, we at length ascended Cameronian Hill, which is cros- 
sed by the western wall. A pagoda of some pretentions is 
the only building upon the hill, but there are several fine 
groves of trees. As it appeared to us, the city is of an irreg- 
ular, quadrangular form, about two-thirds of a mile in extent 
from north to south, and about the same from east to west. A 
solid wall about twenty-five feet high and fifteen wide sur- 
rounds it, and through this four gates, named respectively 
from the four cardinal points of the compass, open upon the 
surrounding country. The houses are low, built of brick, 
and having variously colored tiled roofs. The streets are 
from ten to twelve feet wide, paved with granite, with sewers 
underneath, but the general appearance of the town is decay- 
ing, deserted, filthy and mean. The only really fine building 
that I saw was a Confucian temple, the walls of which were 
composed of very beautiful mosaic work. The hills on the 
northern side of the city are covered with tombs, showing 
that the town "is very ancient and at some time must have 
been very populous. Some ten or fifteen years ago, when 
used as a supply depot by the English, there were many 
European residents atTinghai, but at present there are none ; 
and the only European articles that I saw in all my rambles, 
were a few panes of glass and two Catholic portraits. 

Among the more important and most interesting events of 
our stay at Tinghai were a number of charming picnic ex- 
cursions in large junks to several of the surrounding islands? 
and the serving out «of chickens instead of fresh beef. As I 
have before mentioned, in most parts of China it is almost im- 
possible to procure beef, and here we found it quite so. As 
the crew had been living on salt rations for some time and 
no beef was to be procured, the purser decided to furnish the 
messes with chickens, which were both good and cheap. All 



352 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

agreed that the substitute was an excellent one. Those huge 
pot pies were beneficial as well as palatable, and not vei-y 
expensive for Uncle Sam. 

The principal excursions were to the sacred island of 
Pootoo, some fifteen or twenty miles distant, and the captain 
finally concluded to go there with the vessel. Accordingly 
Thursday, August loth, we got under way, and, after two 
hour's steaming between high, mountainous islands, all in a 
high state of cultivation, and presenting such beautiful and 
picturesque scenery as is rare even in China, we dropped 
anchor on the southern side of the sacred island, so famous in 
the annals of Buddhism. 

The legendary account of the island is, that a Japanese 
priest, in returning from a visit to the celebrated temple at 
Tein Tai, south of Ningpo, found his vessel unaccountably 
obstructed by vast quantities of water lilies and shell-fish in 
the water. He immediately prostrated himself before an 
image of the goddess Kwan-yin, and implored her protection. 
His vessel was at once drifted towards the shore of Pootoo. 
He landed and narrated his marvelous deliverance as vouch- 
safed by the goddess. He fixed his permanent abode on the 
island and consecrated a building to the goddess. This was 
about a thousand years ago, but the goddess Kwan-yin has 
ever since been honored as the patron deity of the place. 
The island soon became famous ; large and costly temples 
were built ; pilgrimages were made to its shrines ; even the 
emperors were impressed with the deepest veneration, and 
the whole of Pootoo with portions of the neighboring islands 
,were granted to the priests. The island itself is about five 
miles long, and from one to two broad. ^ 

At 5 P. M. "the word was passed" for all those who wish- 
ed to go in bathing to "lay aft on the quarter deck." I with 
about sixty others did so, and set out for the shore in the cut- 
ters. We landed at a little pier, near which several junks 
were engaged in unloading rice, brought from some of the 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 353 

neighboring temple lands. A party of us concluded that we 
preferred having a ramble over the island, to going in bathing, 
and so we separated from the others. 

Close by the landing is the How-sze, the second monaste- 
ry in point of importance on the island, containing about ten 
temples, several of which were sadly out of repair. Still 
there are left many remains of former grandeur and magnifi- 
cence. From the How-sze a finely flagged path, shaded on 
either hand by large, noble old trees somewhat resembling 
our elm, but covered with a flower much like that of the lo- 
cust in form, color, and perfume, leads to the top of a high 
eminence. Besides these, here and there is a garden taste- 
fully laid out, and the walks lined with aromatic shrubs, which 
together with the flowers of the China tree fill the air with a 
delicious and exquisite perfume. Ascending the eminence 
by the path, at every corner and turn, we encountered a tem- 
ple or a grotto, an inscription or an image, until at last we 
reached the summit and seated ourselves in the pretty pavil- 
ion there located. This was open on all sides and from it an 
extremely beautiful prospect was spread out before us. To 
be seen were numerous islands, far and near, rock and preci- 
pice around and below, here and there a monastery, temple 
or grotto ; and down before us, the finest, most interesting 
sight of all, a great collection oj temples with their yellow 
tiles indicative of imperial distinction, in the loveliest of love- 
ly little valleys. All the aid that could be collected from 
Nature and Chinese art had been here concentrated to render 
the scene enchanting. 

The descent to the valley is quite steep, and there being 
no steps, and our shoes being very slippery, we had many an 
amusing, (and some not so much so,) tumble on our way down. 
This valley is very quiet and retired, and in all respects is one 
of the most beautiful spots I ever saw. As we walk along, 
we see fine hedgerows, separating cultivated tracts, the hedge- 
rows themselves covered with the woodbine, and the sur- 
16* 



354 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

rounding hills covered with luxuriant shrubbery, or clothed 
with verdure. 

We now find ourselves in the precincts of the temples, but to 
enter the enclosure we must pass through a small tower, covered 
with tiles of the imperial yellow, showing that it was a pres- 
ent from the emperor. Passing through this we cross a fine, 
arched, stone bridge with a small octagonal tower in the mid- 
dle, thrown across a miniature artificial lake, covered with 
lotus plants of immense size. We now pass through one of 
the buildings, enter a large court, and before us stands the 
principal temple. Crossing the court, and entering the tem- 
ple, or large hall, we see before us, in the elevated shrine, 
the three precious Buddhus — the past, the present, and the 
future, — gaudily gilt and painted, while ranged up and down 
at each end of the hall are eighteen other images — the god of 
war, the protectress of seamen, the goddess of wealth, &c. 
The three Buddhus are represented half naked, with woolly 
hair, and in a sitting posture ; one holding the mundane egg 
in his lap ; one adorned with the sacred thread ; and one with 
his finger upraised, as if for the purpose of instructing man- 
kind. 

Before their altar are ranged the ornaments of worship. 
A large table is covered with vases filled with flowers or 
fruits offered to the gods ;*and, near the centre of the hall, 
are the censers in which incense is burned, and the large iron 
caldro7i for burning gilt paper. In one of the front corners 
of the hall is placed a huge bell covered with antique inscrip- 
tions, and in the other a huge drum or gong whose grave and 
sonorous sounds are mingled with those of the bell to arouse 
the attention of the gods when important personages come to 
adore him. Then there are the bamboo which holds the 
little bits of wood by which the purposes of fate are interro- 
gated, and the sacred books which not even the priest under- 
stands. From the ceiling hang enormous circular lanterns, 
like the sides of the altars covered over with inscriptions 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 355 

in honor of the gods ; and on the floor in front of the ahar are 
a few cushions and mats on which the worshipers kneel. With 
some slight exceptions or additions the furniture of every 
Buddhist temple is the same. 

The priests are at their devotions. The smoke of incense 
rises from the huge censer, and, round in front of the altar, 
stand fourteen priests, erect, motionless with clasped hands 
and downcast eyes, a posture which with their shaven heads 
and flowing robes gives them the appearance of the greatest 
solemnity. The low and solemn tones of the sloAvly moving 
chant, might awake religious emotions, but for the hideous 
idols. Three priests keep time with music, one by beating 
on the drum, another on the bell, and the third on a hollow 
wooden sounding piece about the size and form of a human 
skull. Continuing the chant for some time, they suddenly, at 
a sij]jnal from a small bell in the hand of their leader, kneel 
upon low stools covered with straw matting, at the same time 
bowing low, and striking their foreheads against the stone 
pavement, then slowly rising they face inward towards the 
altar, seven facing to the right and seven to the left, and im- 
mediately resume their chant. At first they sing in a slowly 
moving measure, then gradually increase the rapidity of the 
music until they utter the words as fast as it is possible to 
articulate, after vi^hich they «urn gradually again to the 
slow and solemn measure with which they commenced. Again 
a signal from the little bell changes their movements and 
they march slowly in procession around the shrine while one 
of their number takes a cup of holy water, and pours it upon 
a low stone pillar at the temple door. Thus they continue 
their prostrations, chanting and tinklings of bells for half 
an hour or more. Some of the did monks appeared to be 
exceedingly devout, but some of the younger ones did not 
hesitate to joke and laugh. 

This is their daily service, but beside it they have matins, 
morning and evening prayers. They have no Sabbaths, or 



356 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

periodical seasons of rest, but observe the new and full moon 
with particular solemnity ; and keep, on the whole, one hun- 
dred and sixty-two fast days every year, beside the matins 
and vespers of each day. But all their chanting is only what 
you may see written on every corner of the temples, at every 
turn of the roads, on every scrap of paper, on the bells, on 
the gateways, on the walls, what every priest repeats while 
counting his rosary, answers your questions; indeed, the 
whole island seems to be under the spell of this talismanic 
phrase, and devoted to recording and re-echoing 0-me-to- 
Fuh (i. e.. Precious Buddhu.) The following extract from 
one of their works will serve to show to what extent they 
carry their vain repetitions, as the commands therein embodi- 
ed may be seen carried out to the utmost. 

" Swear then, that you will henceforth repeat the name of 
Buddhu, and seek to live in that western world of joy. Give 
up books and classics for others to fag at ; leave the thous- 
and roads for others to toil in. Beyond this sentence, ' 0-me- 
to-Fuh, ' you need not a single word. Let each seek a re- 
tired room, and sweep it clean ; place therein an image of 
Buddhu ; put incense and pure water, with a lighted lamp 
before it ; whether painted on paper, or carved on wood, the 
figure is the same as the true Buddhu ; love it as your father 
and mother ; venei'ate it as g|iir prince and ruler. Morning 
and evening worship before™ with reverence ; on going out 
inform it ; and on returning do the same. Wherever you 
travel, act as in the presence of Buddhu. Whether you eat 
or drink, offer it up first to Buddhu. Raising the eye or mov- 
ing the lips, let all be for Buddhu. Let not the rosary leave 
your hands, or 0-me-to-Fuh depart from your mouths. Re- 
peat it with a loud voice and with a low one ; in lines of four 
words and six words ; quickly and slowly ; audibly and silent- 
ly ; with clasped hands and bended knees ; when fingering 
the rosary, and when walking in the road ; when in a crowd 
and when alone ; whether at home or abroad ; whether at 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 



357 



leisure or in a bustle ; whether sitting or lying ; repeat it 
even in your dreams. Thus to repeat it will make the tears 
flow ; thus to repeat it will inspire the celestial gods with 
awe, and the terrestrial demons with reverence ; thus to re- 
peat it will make heaven rejoice, and the gods be glad. At 
the sound of Buddhu's name the debt of gratitude to parents, 
princes, superiors, and benefactors, will all be paid. If you 
realize behind you the boiling caldron of hell, and before you 
the lotus pools of heaven, though all the world should try to 
prevent you repeating the name of Buddhu, their efforts 
would be entirely vain." 

Besides this they have other prayers, understood by only 
a very few of the priests, and repeated by the great mass 
without a single word being intelligible to them. Yet, such 
an efficacy is attached to one of these, that they teach that 
after repeating it two hundred thousand times the intelligence 
of the deity begins to bud within him who repeats ; when he 
has repeated it three hundred thousand times he may expect 
a personal vision of the god 0-me-to. The following is a 
specimen: — 

" Nan-mo o-me-te po-zay to-ta-kea to zay, to-te-zay-ta, o- 
me-le-to po-kwan, o-me-le-to, seeh-tan-po-kwan, o-mele-to, 
kwan-kea-lante, o-me-le-to, kwan-kia-lan-to, kea-me-me, kea- 
kea-ma-cheh-to kea-le, po-po-hojfc 

There are two accounts of the introduction of Buddhism 
into China. One is that the Emperor hearing of Christ sent 
embassadors to invite him to pay a visit to China. The em- 
bassadors went as far as India, and there meeting with some 
priests of Buddhu, whose religion was then astonishing the 
heathen world with its wonders, they thought that they had 
found the object of their embassy, and with a number of 
Buddhist priests returned to China. 

The other is, that the Emperor sent to India, having heard 
that there was a religious personage in the west, of the name 
of Buddhu, to inquire into his doctrines, obtain his books, and 



358 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

bring some of his priests to China. It is certain, however, 
that the reh'gion was introduced into the country about the 
year A. D. 66. 

A prominent doctrine of the Buddhists is that the spirits of 
departed ancestors may inhabit the bodies of animals. Hence, 
the strictest kindness towards the entire brute creation is en- 
joined upon all true believers, and around every Buddhist 
temple may be seen an immense number of fat hogs and lazy 
dogs, who are sustained until they die of obesity, or perish 
by scurvy. But their kindness is confined to the brute crea- 
tion and to ghosts, while they utterly neglect the miserable 
among men. Their bractice of providing for hungry ghosts 
is somewhat singular. 

On the anniversary of their ancestor's death, and at the 
annual feast of the tombs, all persons must present offerings 
to the manes of their progenitors. This is done for their 
support, and as the food is not diminished in bulk after being 
feasted upon by the spirits, the Chinese imagine that they 
take away only the flavor ; indeed, they contend that there is 
no more taste in that which is left than in the white of an 
egg. Thus, those who have left children, are well provided 
for, but woe to those who have died without having left any ! 
They must wander hungry through all eternity. 

They have instituted a ijpremony which is usually held 
after the seventh moon, for the relief of those wretched 
ghosts who have left no posterity to provide for them. The 
funds for the procuring of the necessary provisions are raised 
by subscriptions, and on the appointed day they are placed 
upon a stage erected for the purpose. Upon another stage 
the priests stand and by means of prayers and the movement 
of the fingers in a peculiar way the gates of hell are opened, 
and then by the sound of gongs and drums the hungry ghosts 
are assembled to the banquet prepared for them. 

In the spirit land, according to tlie Chinese belief, money 
and clothing are as necessary as in this life. Hence those 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 359 

who wish to benefit the dead must transmit them not only 
food, but money and articles of clothing. The money is rep- 
resented by pieces of paper about four inches square, with a 
patch of tin foil or gold leaf near the middle, by burning 
which the real bullion is supposed to be transmitted. Minia- 
ture houses with all the necessary furniture are constructed 
out of paper, articles of clothing are delineated on paper, and 
then burnt; and thus transmitted to friends in the spirit 
land. 

The Buddhist priests, although honored by their immedi- 
ate adherents, are treated with the utmost scorn by the lite- 
rati of China. Probably the great mass of the Chinese pop- 
ulation profess the Buddhist faith ; but these are of the low- 
est classes, while those in authority, and the men of learning 
espouse the Confucian religion, which is that of the State. As 
a class the Buddhist priests are indolent, subsist by begging, 
and do nothing towards the improvement of the world or for 
the benefit of posterity. Whatever may have been the case 
in the past, at the present day the Buddhist priesthood is in 
a most degraded state, and their temples in a most dilapida- 
ted condition. These circumstances would seem to indicate 
the speedy downfall of the system, and when this happens, a 
brighter day will dawn for China. 

After leaving this temple we visited the smaller and infe- 
rior temples of the God of War, the God of Good Cheer, the 
God of Wealth, and several other less noted divinities. The 
temple of the goddess Kwan-yin, the patron deity of the 
island, was smaller than any of the olhers, but the interior 
was fitted up with much greater splendor and magnificence. 
The image of the goddess, although as fine as the Chinese 
mind could conceive and their art execute, was not attractive 
enough to excite the devotion of any of the party on personal 
grounds. 

Leaving the temples and crossing over to the opposite side 
of the lake, I endeavored to persuade one of the priests to 



360 CHIJfA AXD JAPA?s^, 

wade in and get me one of the lotus plants ; but the only 
answer he made me was "O-rae-to-Fuh," as he stood motion- 
less counting his rosary. Meeting with no success in this 
quarter I waded in myself disregarding their forbidding 
looks, tones, and gestures, and procured one of the white and 
one of the red flowers, but not without getting a good duck- 
ing. These lotus blossoms, or " Sacred Flowers of China " as 
they are called, are very large, full eight inches in diameter, 
have four rows of leaves, with a bunch in the centre, some- 
what resembhng a student's cap. There are two varieties, the 
white and the red, and the odor is so powerful, that it is al- 
most suffocating to walk near the bank of the lake. 

From the valley we ^vent up upon the hill to the rear of 
the village where is a genii's well, some thirty feet deep, cut 
out of the solid rock. The descent to the water is by twenty- 
tvvo stone steps also cut out of the solid rock, and done, as 
the Chinese affirm, by the celestial gods. The waters have a 
sweetish but very pleasant taste and are as cold as ice water. 
The Chinese have a tradition concerning them which says 
that for every bowlfull diank by a mortal, a thousand years 
will be added to his life in the spirit land. If there be any 
virtue in them I have added greatly to my life there, for I 
drank several bowls-full. 

It is estimated that there are more than one hundred mon- 
asteries, temples, grottos, and pavilions on the island, in 
which at least two thousand priests chant the praises of their 
gods. In fact there are no buildings on the island but sacred 
ones, and no inhabitants except priests and boys training for 
the priesthood. These are supported by the products of the 
island, and by the contributions of those making pilgrimages 
hither, or coming to worship. Like all the priests of Bud- 
dhu, they profess to renounce all family connections, take a 
vow of celibacy, shave their heads, dwell in temples, and 
abstain from animal food, liquors, and tobacco. 

Descending the eminence upon which the genii's well is 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 361 

located, crossing a narrow valley, ascending and descending 
another slight eminence and you are upon the northern side 
of the island, where is as fine a spot for surf-bathing as can 
be found anywhere in the world. To many of us surf-bath- 
ing is a novelty and at jfirst we got roughly handled by the 
breakers, but the semi-daily exercise of our week's stay here 
has made us nearly as expert as the oldest surf-bathers. 

As I said in the forepart of my letter the benefits are 
plainly visible in the crew, and there has not been a more 
pleasant period in the cruise. I have no idea how much long- 
er we shall remain here ; but hope that our next port will be 
Hong Kong, there to fit out for the homeward bound pas- 
sage. Even for that, the crew are not anxious to bid Pootoo 
"good-bye," so much are they charmed by this lovely spot, 
and so pleasantly and swiftly do the days of our stay here 
pass by. 



862 CHINA AND JAPAN, 



LETTER XXXV I. 

U. S. S. "Wachusett, Hong Kong, China, ) 
September 11, 1867. j 

My Dear R. : 

The same evening that I finished your last letter a junk 
arrived at Pootoo from Ningpo, bringing dispatches from the 
Admiral ordering us to proceed to Shanghai immediately, and 
as soon as we could take in the necessary coal and provisions 
to go to Hong Kong, and make the necessary preparations 
for the "Homeward Bound Passage." The wildest excite- 
ment was caused by these dispatches, and a joyous activity 
has since pervaded every duty. 

We got under way the next morning at day-light, anchor- 
ed, just inside the light-ship at dark that evening ; got under 
way at day-light the next morning, and a little after noon we 
were at our old anchorage at Shanghai. We found the Flag- 
ship there, having returned the day before from Chefoo, and 
heard it rumored that the Wyoming and Supply were with 
us to start for home as soon as possible. The Hartford left 
for Hong Kong Friday morning, August 23d, and that same 
afternoon we commenced coaling ship. By working all night 
we finished the next forenoon. 

Saturday and Sundny the ship was fairly thronged with 
friends from shore, paying us their farewell visit. All seem- 
ed loth to have us leave the station, but wished a speedy and 
prosperous passage home. The citizens of Shanghai are 
having a '"Homeward Bound" jjennant manufactured for us, 
but felt disappointed that it was not finished in time for us 
to fly when we left there. In my last ramble on shore there, 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 363 

and as we got under way and started down the river Mon- 
day forenoon, bidding Shanghai "good-bye" for the last 
time, it seemed almost like leaving home, and parting from 
home friends. We have certainly spent a great many pleas- 
ant days there, formed many pleasant acquaintances, and I 
think that we left with the best wishes of all — of whatever 
nationality. 

Shortly after passing Woosung the wind commenced to 
blow very fresh from the south-east, accompanied by squalls 
of rain. The pilot said that it would soon clear off, but the 
captain said " Mr. Pilot, you don't take me out to sea in a 
gale, I want you to understand, " and with his customary 
prudence he brought the ship to anchor. The pilot's pre- 
diction proved to be correct, for it cleared off beautifully du- 
ring the night, so the next morning early we got under way 
and started for Hong Kong. We went down by the " Inland 
Passage, " anchoring nearly every night, and with steam and 
all sail set, logging eight and ten knots per hour each day ; 
so we made the distance of eight hundred and seventy miles 
in six days. 

At Hong Kong we found the Hartford, Ashuelot, Monoca- 
cy, Unadilla, and Aroostook. That same evening the sup- 
ply arrived from Japan, and a day later the Wyoming from 
Siianghai. There are therefore eight U. S. war vessels now 
in harbor, the largest fleet of ours that has been seen in 
China for many years. By all it is conceded to be as fine 
an assemblage of war-vessels as was ever gathered in these 
waters — and likely to prove as effective. The Monocacy is 
double-ender hke the Ashuelot, only she has a jib-boom and 
is square-rigged forward. The Unadilla and Aroostook are 
small gunboats of four or five hundred tons burthen, and 
built after nearly the same model as the Wachusett. They 
were sent out here for the express purpose of running up 
small rivers, and cruising about the numerous bays, islands 
and inlets, on the Chinese coast, after pirates. 



364 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

Tuesday, September od, our executive officer, Lieutenant 
Commander John W. Phillip, was transferred on board the 
Hartford, and Lieutenant Commander Browar was sent 
from her in his stead. Some few feel rejoiced at the change, 
but the majority of the ship's company are sorry to lose Mr. 
Phillip. For all those who have endeavored to conduct them- 
selves as men, he has treated as men should be treated. 
What higher commendation could be given of an officer than 
that ? Still I have no fault to find with our new executive 
officer, for thus far, he has been just and kind in all of his 
dealings with the crew. 

As yet little or nothing has been done in making the nec- 
essary preparations for home, but with scarcely anything to 
do, the crew are celebrating the prospect of soon being re- 
turned to their homes and friends near and dear, once more. 
This is done in true sailor style by singing, dancing, and vari- 
ous sports on board ship, and by debaucheries on shore. 
Some exceptions there are, of course, to this rule, but very 
few. As a general thing a sailor lives a whole cruise in the 
anticipation of the enjoyments which he intends to have at its 
end. And yet the realization gives but a few days, or a few 
weeks at the most, of unlimited sway to his passions and de- 
sires, and then he starts on another cruise, only to have the 
same thing repeated. This will continue to be the case 
until some plan is devised by better treatment to keep the 
men ever mindful of their being men, and of their duties and 
privileges as such. 

There seems to be a general wish that we may not start 
for home for a week or two yet, as it is now the time of the 
changing of the monsoons, and consequently the " typhoon 
season " on the coast of China. The word typhoon, comes 
from the Chinese ta-fung, or " great wind. " Typhoons are 
produced by the increased temperature with other causes not 
fully understood. They annually occasion great losses to 
the native and foreign shipping in the Chinese waters, and 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 365 

more than half the vessels lost on the coast, are from them. 
They are now understood t© be whirlwinds whose fury is ex- 
hausted within a narrow tract, lying in no uniform direction 
other than from north to south, at a greater or less angle. 

The principal phenomena indicating the approach of these 
hurricanes are the direction of the wind, which commences to 
blow softly from the north without assuaging the heat, or dis- 
turbing the calmness of the atmosphere, and the sinking of 
the barometer. The mercury usually commences to fall sev- 
eral hours before the typhoon begins, and not unfrequently 
is known to fall below' 28°. The wind increases as it veers 
to the northeast, and from that point to the southeast, it 
blows with the greatest fary in fitful gusts. 

The Chinese dread these gales, and in some parts have 
erected temples to the Typhoon Mother, a goddess whom they 
supplicate for protection against them. 

Monday, September 9th, the harbor of Hong Kong was 
visited by the severest typhoon that has been known on the 
coast for ten years. Indications of its approach were given 
the evening before, so that all the vessels in our squadron 
were well prepared for it and sustained little injury. The 
same was true of the men-of-war of other nationalities in the 
harbor, but the merchant vessels did not escape so luckily 
and many of them were roughly handled. About a dozen 
were piled up together near where the English hospital- 
ship Malvern is at anchor, there beached on the Kowloon 
shore, and a great number lost masts and yards. Several 
small craft, among which is the American schooner Fowler, 
are reported sunk, and such is the fate of many junks. 

The saddest case of all, however, was that of a Spanish 
bark which was lying at anchor near the Chinese quarter, 
without cargo or ballast. At 8 P. M., Sunday evening, she 
commenced dragging her anchor, and in about two hours she 
had got between the Hartford and the Wachusett, and was 
then dancing about in such a threatening manner, that all 



^QQ CHINA AND JAPAN, 

hands were called, in case she might bear down upon us. 
Before all were fairly on deck, she got foul of the Hartford's 
cable, and after two or three attempts she finally capsized 
and sank. It is thought by some that a hole was made 
through her bottom by the Hartford's cable. It was truly 
sad and sickening to hear the heartrending cries of the poor 
wretches on board of her. The third cutter was cleared 
aw^ay for lowering and a crew volunteered to go to their 
relief, but the captain said that it was madness to lower one 
of our boats and would not let them do it. We were all 
rejoiced the next morning to know that the Hartford's barge 
had picked up fifteen of the crew, yet saddened to learn that 
two of the crew and a little son of the captain's were drowned. 

Ashore, houses were unroofed and blown down, and much 
damage done. It is estimated that one hundred vessels were 
wrecked along the coast and twenty-five hundred lives lost. 
Yesterday H. B. M.'s ship Pearl came into port in a deplora- 
ble condition. She was caught in the typhoon, lost all her 
boats and five men, threw eight guns overboard, and was so 
badly strained that she had to keep her pumps going con- 
stantly, night and day, to prevent her filling and sinking. 
This afternoon the Monocacy came in, after an absence of 
only three days. She too was caught in the typhoon, and 
lost her top-masts, smoke-stock and three of her boats. It is 
almost a miracle that she was not lost. How soon we may 
start, I am sure that I am unable to tell. Anxious as I am 
to see home and friends as soon as possible I do not wish to 
leave Hong Kong until the weather becomes more settled, 
and this seems to be the feeling of all. 

" Homeward Bound ! " How often and with what anxious 
longing have I looked forward to the time when I could in 
reality say that, and again be united to friends near and dear 
after so long a separation, and after experiencing so many 
dangers and privations. Although we have upwards cf 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 367 

eighteen thousand miles of sea to sail over, taking at least 
four or five months ; yet if we once get started, it -vrill seem 
almost as if we had home in our grasp. God grant that we 
may soon start and have a speedy and prosperous passage. 



368 CHINA AND JAPAN, 



LETTER XXXVII. 

D, Hong K( 
October 9, 1867. 



U. S. Flagship Hartford, Hong Kong, China, ) 



My Dear R: 

I can imagine your look of surprise as you read the head- 
ing of this letter, and find that I am in another vessel and 
still in China, instead of being on the Wachusett and 
*' Homeward Bound. " In fact no one was more surprised at 
the transfer than myself, for up to the day in which it was 
made, I had not dreamed of such a thing. 

Verily we know not what a day may bring forth, for, 
within that short time all my hopes and expectations of soon 
starting for home were dashed to the ground, and now the 
prospect of their being realized is less than it was a year ago. 
Transferred just as I thought that I had home in my grasp, 
and then to leave a home, too, — certainly what has been more 
like a home than I thought it possible to find in the service ! 
Then, still more than all this, to part with old shipmates and 
friends, one especially who seems almost more than brother 
to me, so long and close has been our friendship for more 
than two years, sharing each other's joys, sorrows, and con- 
fidences. In every respect it seemed like leaving home, to 
leave the Wachusett. 

Thursday morning, September ]2th, the excitement about 
transferring commenced, and before night one and all knew 
that there was to be a transfer of all those on the Wachusett 
and Wyoming whose time did not expire prior to January 
1st, 1868, to take tlie place of those on the Hartford whose 
time did expire before that date. Of the marines, four were 
to be transferred irom each vessel to lake the place of those 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 369 

were to be invalided home. The question then arose, "Who 
is to be transferred?" I certainly did not expect to be of 
the number until late Friday evening, when the Sergeant 
told me that he had received orders to make out my accounts 
with those of three others. Of course I stormed and raved 
over it, even going to the Captain and Admiral to see if there 
was no possible way of avoiding the transfer; but I derived 
no hope from them. 

Well, there was not much sleep for me, as well as for 
many others, that night, but when I arose the next morning, 
it was with the conviction that nothing was to be gained by 
giving way to sorrow and regret, apd with the determination 
to make the best of what I had. Accordingly I set to work, 
packed up my things, and made the necessary preparations, 
and after signing accounts, receiving grog and ration money, 
I, with one hundred others, set out bag and baggage for the 
Hartford. 

Clambering up the Hartford's side and stepping over her 
gangway, I found the spar-deck in genuine "Guard O" order — 
crowded with men and bundled up with bags, boxes and bag- 
gage, with noise, dirt, and confusion everywhere. Some of the 
" Guard " kindly lending me a helping hand, I soon had all 
my things snugly stowed away, and sat down to dinner at 
noon with a good appetite. 

After dinner, I paid a short visit to the Wachusett to get 
some things which I had forgotten, and to bid those that I had 
left behind "good-bye." All were busily engaged in taking 
in stores, and were working with a will, as they expected 

soon to start for home. The following evening friend A 

came on board the Hartford to see me — paying his farewell 
visit. Although in some respects the occasion was sad and 
painful, yet I spent a very pleasant evening with him. As 
far as he is concerned personally, he would not under the 
circumstances h,ave objected to being transferred, too. In 

bidding one another " good-bye " we exchanged best wishes 
17 



370 CHINA AND JAPxVN, 

for each others prosperity, success, and happiness, and prom- 
ised, if our lives and heaUh were spared, to meet one another 
in the United States. 

At 5 P. M., September 18th, the Wachusett was reported 
to be under way and all hands were sent up into the rigging 
to " cheer ship." As she crossed our bows the order was" 
given for cheering ; but I must confess that the Unadilla's 
crew of forty-three men gave a heartier, louder response 
than did ours of four hundred. Still it was a stirring sight to 
see the Wachusett slowly moving down the harbor, her " long 
pennant" flying, the riggings manned by those who returned 
three hearty cheers for those given by the different vessels 
as she passed them, the Bugler playing "Home, Sweet Home," 
" Auld Lang-Syne," etc. It was with feelings of sorrow and 
regret that I saw her go out, leaving me behind, but still I 
gave her three hearty cheers, and sent forth a fervent wish 
that she might have a speedy and prosperous passage home. 
The Wyoming left the following morning, when the same 
routine of " cheering ship," etc., was gone through with. 

By the Enghsh mail steamer, which arrived here yester- 
day from Singapore, we learned that the Wachusett was 
thirteen days in reaching that place, and in the passage was 
caught in a typhoon, in which she lost boats and top-masts and 
sustained much other damage. The Wyoming went to Ba- 
tavia, where she arrived one day later. 

And now for a glance at the Hartford — my new home. 
She is a screw propellor of 1,900 tons burden, ship-rigged, 
carrying royals. She carries a battery of twenty-one guns ; 
nine nine-inch and one one hundred pound Parrot rifle on a 
broadside with a thirty pound Parrot on the forecastle, besides 
two boat howitzers. The battery, with the almost continuous 
line of hatches stretching fore and aft through the middle 
of the deck, and the boats and booms amidships between the 
foremast and smoke-stack, occupy so much of the spar-deck, 
that although of much greater beam, there is in reality less 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 371 

room than there was in the Wachusett. The forecastle, too, 
is quite small and contains but little room underneath. The 
poop extends nearly to the mizzen-mast, and affords ample 
space underneath for the Admiral's and Captain's cabins, 
reception rooms, Secretary's office, pantry, printing office, 
closets and lockers. 

The berth-deck is flush fore and aft, and is. as fine a one 
as is often met with. The forward portion, nearly as far aft 
as the main-mast, is partitioned off from the rest for the " sick- 
bay," and is fitted up with swinging cots, and with every 
convenience and comfort that could reasonably be expected 
on board of a man-of-war. Just abaft the fore-mast is the 
galley and Admiral's stove. From there aft to the main- 
mast is the space occupied by the messes, but the sleeping 
billets extend through the steerage country to the ward-room 
bulkhead, about midway between the main and mizzen- 
masts. The Guard occupy about twenty yards of the after 
portion on the port side. Around the main-mast is a rack 
and row of pegs for the Guards' muskets and belts. Going 
aft on the port side are the Issuing, Sailmaker's and Carpen- 
ter's rooms and Engineers' steerage. On the starboard side 
are the Forward officers' mess room. Gunners' and Boat- 
swain's rooms, and starboard steerage or " Gun-room," leaving 
between them a " steerage country," from thirty-five to forty 
feet wide. The ward-room is the largest and finest I ever 
saw, and is well furnished. 

Underneath the " Bay " are the Yeoman's and Painter's 
rooms. Abaft them is the Fore-passage, some forty feet in 
length, where are the sergeant's store room, bread and sail 
rooms, and two armories. Extending from there to the 
fire-room are the fore and main holds and chain-lock- 
ers. The fire and engine rooms, coal bunkers, and sheet 
chain-lockers extend nearly as far aft as the ward-room bulk- 
head. Underneath the ward-room is the cockpit or Orlop 
deck, where are the spirit rooms, more sail rooms, and some 



372 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

seven or eight store rooms. Underneath this still are the 
magazines. 

Such is the Hartford, as seen by me after a stay of nearly 
one month on board of her. Mrs. Admiral Farragut's " The 
dear old Hartford," and the crew's " The Pride of the Ocean," 
were well earned by her glorious career during the late re- 
bellion ; and on thac account she ought to be, and doubtless 
is, dear to every true American, and the pride and glory 
especially of all American seamen. 

My mess arrangements are somewhat better than they 
were on the Wachusett, for here four of us non-commissioned 
officers have a separate mess, with a table, camp-stools, and 
many conveniences. The remainder of the Guard are in 
two messes, each of twenty-three men. In taking the place 
of one who was sent home, his term having expired, I take 
his place, not only in duties and mess arrangements, but in 
the chumship of one whose friendship is certainly worth cul- 
tivating. He is an easy-natured, good-tempered, open- 
hearted fellow, with an unmistakably merry, fun-loving dis- 
position ; a splendid yarn-spinner, and an ardent admirer of 
" Artemus." He never complains at any misfortune, and I 
never yet have seen or heard of any strait that he was in 
from which he did not come out successfully. I am sure that 
we shall get along famously together. 

As there are four of us to stand watch, we have twelve 
hours off and much easier duty on the whole than I have 
been used to. There are more sentries to attend to, and 
the duties are somewhat different, but when I get thoroughly 
established, I am sure that I shall like the new duties as well 
as the old ones. At first I had some difficulty in finding the 
right man ; but I had a good assistant in a prominent mem- 
ber of the "guard," a man of a genial countenance, a nimble 
tongue, an obliging disposition, and an uncertain age, who 
knows everything about everybody in the ship, and takes 
delight in posting up any one else. When I get puzzled, I 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 373 

go to him and soon get set to rights. The Guard has no gun 
to attend to, and at general quarters some are stationed in the 
tops to act as sharp-shooters, others over the magazines, seven 
to act as '• color-guard," and the remainder to "fall in " at the 
rear of the boarders, and to be ready for such duty as may 
be assigned them. My station is to take charge of the " color 
guard." 

Ten men with a non-commissioned officer are detailed 
every day as " quarter-deck guard," and scarcely a day passes 
but what they have to be paraded to receive some distin- 
guished visitor. 

"We have a Chaplain on board, and have divine service 
every Sunday. I have attended regularly when not on 
watch, and so far have enjoyed the services very much. Yet, 
with the exception of the apprentice boys and some of the 
officers, but very few attend. 

We have had another typhoon, and a worse one, it is said, 
than that of September 9th. Monday evening, September 
30th, the wind commenced to blow quite fresh, accompanied 
by light squalls of rain. All that night, and all the following 
day, the gale kept steadily increasing until about 10 P. M., 
when it was at its height. Although the force of the wind 
was much greater than it was during the previous typhoon, 
less damage was done to the shipping in the harbor, as the 
preparations" were more complete. However, several small 
vessels and boats are reported lost, and when the gale was at 
its height, the Supply parted her moorings, drifted over near 
the Kowloon shore, and only saved herself from being 
beached by throwing her guns overboard, with hawsers fast- 
ened to them. On shore more houses were unroofed or 
blown down, and much more damage done than before. The 
early part of October is the time laid down for the close of 
the typhoon season in the southern part of China, and we all 
hope that this may prove to be the last visitation. The Eng- 
lish line-of-battle ship Eodney was out in the gale, and was 



374 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

roughly handled. She lost yards, masts, and boats; and, 
incredible as it may seem, the wind was so strong that it 
burst holes through her strong oaken sides large enough to 
throw a hammock through. 

An American ship, the Rattler, lately arrived from San 
Francisco, and having a large amount of specie on board, 
in silver bars, was beached on the Kowloon shore. Several 
days were occupied in getting the specie out, and during that 
time a strong guard had to be kept on board of her, with 
loaded muskets, to prevent the thieving Chinese, who thronged 
the beach like hungry birds of prey, from taking possession 
of the vessel and murdering the crew. 

The work of the crew since we have been lying here has 
been to get up the anchors, which were fastened to buoys 
at the time that the Spanish bark got foul of the cable during 
the first typhoon, and paint the ship and put it in the finest 
possible harbor trim. All agree that the appearance of the 
crew, the cleanliness and comfort, as well as the general 
appearance of the vessel have greatly improved under the 
executive management of Mr. Philip. 

October 5th the Great Republic arrived here from San 
Francisco, deeply laden with California products. She brought 
our mails and home news up to September 3d. On her re- 
turn trip she takes out a large cargo of tea and silks, with 
about seven hundred Chinese steerage passengers, besides 
about one hundred Europeans in her cabins. 

Dame Rumor's to-day's edition hath the report that we 
leave here in a day or two for Japan. We all hope it may 
prove to be the case, for if we are to remain any length of 
time longer on the station, it will be much more pleasantly 
and profitably spent in Japan than in China. In the latter 
place we have seen nearly everything worthy of note that we 
would be apt to see by making a longer stay, while in 
Japan we have barely commenced " seeing the sights." Yes, 
I hope we may shortly depart for Japan. 



AND A VOYAGE THITHEK. 375 



LETTER XXXVIII. 

U. S. Flagship Hartfokd, Nagasaki, Japan, > 
December 2d, 1867. \ 
My Dear R. : 

With Mrs. H and two daughters — Admiral Bell's 

sister and nieces — on board as passengers, we left Hong 
Kong Thursday, October 10th, and arrived here after a very 
pleasant passage of ten days. The pleasures of the passage 
were heightened by the fact of our having ladies on board, and 
never did I see more life and animation exhibited by a body 
of men than was displayed by our crew during those ten days. 
Sports of every kind were prompted and carried on, and in 
music, both instrumental and vocal, the Hartford's men fairly 
surpassed themselves. 

I was surprised at the steaming qualities of the Hartford, 
having always understood that no dependence could be placed 
upon her engines ; but, although the fore part of the passage 
was against a strong head-wind, we logged over a hundred 
miles each day ; and then, when she got a wind so as to be 
able to carry sail, we easily sailed treble that distance. When 
we left Hong Kong, many of us expected to have a rough, 
disagreeable trip, but it was a remarkably pleasant one, and 
most of the time the ship was as steady as if at anchor. 
With this comfort, there is still another thing that tends 
greatly to reconcile me to the transfer ; and that is, having 
here a good comfortable place to eat my meals, read, write, 
or study, in the warm weather, and especially when under 
steam. Poorer fare taken in comfort, I think, is equal to 
better fare taken in misery. 

At the date of my last letter the weather was warm, but it 
is getting to be quite cool now, the thermometer standing as 



376 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

low as 44° above zero on some of the nights, — real wintry- 
weather. Yes, everything betokens that winter is'at hand, and 
we all find that overcoats and mufflers are comfortable, even 
in the day time. The Hartford's berth deck is quite cool in 
warn; weather, and cold in cold weather. It is uncomfortable 
here without extra clothing on, and there is seldom any one 
een lying about the decks. But there is more of dancing, sky- 
larking and other sports going on, beside a daily drill or ex- 
ercise in something ; so that the time, on the whole, passes 
about as pleasantly and quickly as it did when the weather 
was warmer. Then we are having such good nights for 
sleeping that there is genuine comfort in one's hammock. 

The fleets of the different nations are assembhng here, and 
about the middle of this month all expect to go to Osaca, to 
be there at the opening of the port, which, according to the 
provisions of the treaty of one year ago, is to occur January 
1st, 1868. Of late rumors have been afloat that trouble is 
apprehended about the opening of this and one or two other 
ports specified in the treaty of January 1st, 1867. The rumors 
are based upon the strong spirit of opposition manifested by 
several of the leading daimios or princes of the empire ; but 
the ministers of the several powers have received instruc- 
tions to delay no longer than the time specified ; and then, 
unless the ports are opened willingly, to open them by force 
of arms. A few remarks now about the government of this 
Empire, with its population of 30,000,000, I think might be 
interesting to you. 

According to the Japanese mythological account of the 
Creation, after the world was created, it was for a long time 
the abode of spirits, before our first parents appeared. These 
gave birth to a daughter named Ten-she-o-dai-gin, from whom 
heir spiritual emperor or Mikado is descended. About the 
year 600 B. C. their authentic record begins with the acces- 
sion to the Mikadoship of Gimutenon, who conquered the 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 377 

various tribes and founded the Japanese Empire. Such was 
the origin of the Mikado or spiritual emperor. 

A successful military chieftain, named Yorotomo, was con- 
firmed by the Mikado, about the close of the tenth century, 
as the first Tycoon or temporal emperor. Since that time Japan 
has had a dual form of government, with two emperors. Al- 
though the Mikado is acknowledged to be the chief ruler of 
the empire, his power is only nominal, while the Tycoon, in 
administering the civil and military affairs of the State, is in 
reality the emperor. Once raised to the Tycoonship, pre- 
tending to be desirous for the ease and dignity of the Mikado, 
he strips him of all power, by supporting him in idleness, 
and in furnishing him protection and the necessaries of life. 

The religion and patriotism of the Japanese are closely 
allied, for the basis of both is found in their considering it 
their highest duty, while they believe in the divine origin of 
their Mikados, and the infallibility of their ancient records, to 
preserve inviolate their Mikadoship and its lineal succession. 
To some extent, the Buddhist faith has been grafted on ; still 
this principle is never lost sight of, but is regarded as the 
basis of their religion, as well as that upon which their na- 
tional existence depends. 

The present dynasty, with its political condition, was 
founded by Gongensama, who attained the Tycoonship about 
two hundred and fifty years ago. There were eighteen 
feudal lords, or princes, who were not subdued by him, but 
still hold their ancient titles and estates. Besides these 
there are about two hundred and forty other princes, who 
hold greater or less sway over their own estates ; but their 
titles, estates, and lives even are subject to the Tycoon. Not 
so with these eighteen, although to a certain extent, they ac- 
knowledge the authority of the Tycoon. 

In the administration of the government, the Tycoon is 
assisted by two hereditary bodies of nobles, and two that are 
elective and legislative; thus in some respects resembling 
17* 



378 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

the Parliament of Great Britain. The aristocracy, or privi- 
leged class, of Japan is very large, and its members may be 
known by the long and short swords, which are thrust in the 
belt on the left side. Birth alone can entitle one to be a 
member of this class ; for there is no transfer, however great 
may be the wealth or merit of the individual. 

In my rambles on shore during our stay at Nagasaki, I have 
gained a tolerable insight into their penal laws and the se- 
verity of their punishments for crime. Counterfeiting is 
regarded as the highest offence that can be committed, and is 
punished by the crucifixion of the individual ; arson is pun- 
ished by burning at the stake, and theft and adultery by de- 
capitation. No person is punished until he has confessed his 
guilt ; but all investigations and trials are accompanied by 
tortures, and while many guilty ones doubtless escape, it is 
equally probable that many innocent ones confess crimes 
they never committed, preferring immediate death to the 
lingering one so frequently resulting from torture and con- 
finement in loathsome dungeons. In respect to witnesses, 
the Japanese have a law, that if by one's testimony an inno- 
cent man is punished, the witness must suffer the same pen- 
alty. Private disputes, if not arranged among those inter- 
ested, are usually settled by friends of the parties at their 
expense. 

A slight sickness has prevented my going on shore as 
much as I otherwise should ; so I have not made thorough re- 
searches into as many points in Japanese customs and manners 
as I would like and intend to make. The whole country, as 
well as everything about the people, is full of interest, and 
daily do I become more and more cognizant of this fact, and 
desire to push my researches further. 

Thursday, November 21st, all were saddened by the death 
of Horace L. Peterson, Admiral's Secretary. For a long 
time he had suffered almost untold agonies from one of the 
worst forms of rheumatic complaint, and in his case death 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 379 

did seem to be a relief. All that knew him have a good 
word to speak in his behalf, and Admiral Bell says, " that as a 
man and as a Secretary, he had few equals." At 2 P. M., 
the following day, all hands were called to bury the dead, 
and the funeral service of the Episcopal Church was read 
by the Chaplain. The remains were taken on shore, accom- 
panied by the Marine Guard in full uniform, and the officers 
of the Hartford, Supply, and Ashuelot, and were interred 
with military honors. Several boat-loads of English officers 
were in the funeral cortege, and the last tribute paid to the 
memory of the departed was as imposing as it was sad. 

The arrival of a shipwrecked party here yesterday from 
the western coast of the island of Niphon, and their account 
of their treatment by the Japanese, leads me to say a few 
words regarding piracy in these waters. Piracy, so great a 
scourge on the Chinese coast, is miknown in Japanese waters. 
The severity of the law against dishonest wrecking, and the 
faithfulness of its execution, are well worthy of imitation by 
more civilized nations. Property wrecked on the most 
thinly inhabited or hostile coasts of the Japanese group is 
more sure of recovery than on the coast of New Jersey. The 

C was wrecked on the coast of one of the most hostile 

princes, yet the officers and crew say that they met with the 
greatest kindness and hospitality. The Japanese rescued 
them at the utmost peril to themselves. They even went so 
far as to put up a bathing place and an apparatus for heating 
water, as a daily hot bath is almost a religious duty with 
" /op," and they could not refuse to undergo a daily evil, for 
fear of giving offence to their hosts. Every article, however 
insignificant in value, floating ashore from the broken vessel 
was returned to its owner. The wrecking was done under 
the direction of a government officer, and some insignificant 
articles were brought here several days after the arrival of 
the shipwrecked ones. 



380 CHINA AND JAPAN, 



LETTER XXXIX. 

U. S. Flag-Ship, Hartford, \ 

HiOGO, Japan, January 20, 1868. j" 
My Dear E.-: 

I would commence this letter with " Glory, Glory, Halle- 
lujah, " over the good news which I have to communicate 
concerning the satisfactory and peaceable opening of the ports 
of Osaca and Hiogo, January 1st, and the pro&pect of soon 
starting for home, did I not also have to narrate the melan- 
choly fate of our Admiral, Flag- heuten ant, and ten shipmates^ 
Certainly no period of our cruise has had more interesting, 
joyful, and sorrowful moments than that which has intervened 
since the date of my last letter to you. But to return to Nag- 
asaki, and the narration of the events in the order of their 
occurrence. 

We left Nagasaki, Tuesday, December 16th, and on the 
evening of the following Thursday dropped anchor off the 
exceedingly beautiful and picturesque town of Simonosaki 
on the northern or Niphon side of the straits of the same 
name at the entrance to the Inland Sea. I have seen many 
lovely sites, in our rambles about China and Japan, but I 
have never seen any whose natural beauties, and the natural 
beauties heightened and perfected by art, were equal to those 
of Simonosaki. On one knoll is to be seen a group of fine 
temples overshadowed by a beautiful grove of trees, on an- 
other a noble palace with its handsomely terraced gardens 
and grounds, in the ravine between them a collection of neat 
farm-houses — these with many other beautiful, and tastefully 
conceived features, go to form a belle vue, which will ever 
remain stamped upon my memory. 



AND A VOYAGE THITHEK. \ 381 

The Japanese are passionately fond of flowers, and the 
dwarfing of shrubs and trees is carried by them to a high state 
of perfection. Of the latter I saw some of the finest specimens 
at Simonosaki. I saw a number of perfect oaks, upward of 
fifty years old, that were scarcely more than six feet high, 
and fifteen in circumference at the point where the branches 
were most wide spread. I also noticed several pines, dwarf- 
ed in equal proportion, and with the additional interesting 
feature that the branches were trained to grow out in a near- 
ly horizontal direction, instead of having an upward tendency 
as is natural. Other trees and shrubs I saw, dwarfed, and 
with their trunks tied in curious knots, or with their branch- 
es pruned and trained so as to r epresent some desired profile 
or character. 

At Simonosaki the straits are less than a mile in width 
and the shores on both sides present admirable natural advan- 
tages for fortifications, which would effectually command this 
entrance to the Inland Sea. Simonosaki is included within 
the province and is the favorite residence of Prince Negato, a 
very wealthy and powerful Daimio, and one the most bitterly 
opposed to foreign intercourse. We remained there nearly 
two days and took in about fifty tons of miserable coaL It was 
brought there from a native mine near by. 

When about fifty miles from Osaca, we were joined by the 
Iroquois, and with her anchored a few hours and had target 
practice with the battery. We then continued on in compa- 
ny, and just before dark, dropped anchor at Hioga, about 
seventeen miles distant from Osaco, and across the bay 
from it. 

Hioga, a small, but quite pretty little town, situated on the 
northwestern side of a fine large bay at the head of Harrima 
Nada, the eastern section of the Inland Sea, is the seaport 
of Osaca. There all the shipping lay, and the -foreigners will 
doubtless reside. On each of the projecting points of land 
which form the semicircular harbor, is located a small stone 



382 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

fortress, each mounting six or eight heavy guns. Along the 
western side of the harbor for about a mile, the town stretch- 
es at the foot of a range of low hills. The houses which com- 
pose it are low, mostly built of wood, and the town itself has 
no prominent feature worthy of special note. In front is an- 
other circular, stone fortress, the largest and finest of the 
three. Upon the left or eastern side of the harbor is a low, 
sandy tract, about a mile square, which has been set apart for 
foreign residents, and is now partly covered with rude build- 
ings in the process of construction. 

I hope that you had a merrier Christmas than we had. It 
was a cold, disagreeable day, and there was nothing to show 
that it was one of our most joyous holidays. Aside from this^ 
and tending to make it a peculiarly sad and unpleasant day 
for all, was our consigning to his last resting place the highly 
educated, refined, gentlemanly, and universally beloved Dr. 
Page. For several months he had been confined to his room, 
in the last stages of consumption, and for more than a week, 
his life had hung by a single thread, liable to be severed at 
any moment. For a long time he had suffered greatly, and 
Death to him was a welcome visitor. He quietly breathed 
his last, on the morning of the 24th. His final resting place 
is in the midst of a small grove of pines on the left of the 
town, where two or three seamen had been buried before. The 
ceremonies, customary upon such occasions, were performed 
on the ship and at the grave. 

During the month of December, there was everywhere 
about us the greatest excitement, kept up by the various 
rumors that were in circulation. At one time we would hear 
that the ports would be opened peaceably at the appointed 
time, and then again the report would be that the Japanese 
would oppose the opening by force of arms. We all knew 
that the Tycoon was favorably inclined to foreign intercourse, 
and consequently to the opening of the ports, but opposed to 
him were several of the most powerful Daimios* 



AND A VOYAGE THITHEK. 383 

The first of January finally came, and not the first sign of 
difficulty came with it ; but with apparent readiness and good 
will the ports of Osaca and Hioga were opened to foreign 
trade and residence. At 8 A. M. that morning the vessels 
comprising the English and the French squadrons " dressed 
ship " with the Japanese flag at the main, and at 9 A. M. were 
followed by those of our squadron. From the flagstafFs of the 
forts, as well as from the mast-heads of the Japanese war 
vessels Fusiamma and La Place the Japanese colors were 
also floating. Exactly at meridian the Hartford fired the first 
gun of a national salute, which was immediately accompanied 
by every man-of-war in thfe harbor. This, with the booming of 
the guns of the forts, and those of the .Fusiamma, (Ameri- 
can flag at the fore answering our salute, and the La Place, 
English flag at the fore answering their salute,) made a sight 
more imposing and more impressive than the natives had 
ever before witnessed, and one in my experience only equal- 
ed by the ceremonies observed when the Emperor of Brazil 
passed through the fleets lying at anchor in Rio. In the after- 
noon two steamer loads of adventurers were landed and 
before evening there were to be seen the American, English, 
French, and Dutch Consul's flags flying from newly erected 
flag-staffs. Our nation was represented at Osaca by the Shen- 
andoah, Commodore Goldsboro, and the booming of her elev- 
en-inch guns could be distinctly heard across the bay, fifteen 
miles distant. Notwithstanding their apparent readiness to 
open the ports, the Japanese do not seem to entertain as kind 
and cordial feelings towards us as were hoped for. Thus far 
they have furnished us those articles which we required, with 
much apparent reluctance, and at almost fabulous prices. 
With this, everywhere and in everything it is to be noticed, 
that the dislike to foreigners and foreign intercourse is gain- 
ing ground daily and unless some change is soon made for 
the better, it will terminate in open rupture. Still we are all 
hopeful that our fears may prove groundless, and that our in- 
tercourse may grow more close and friendly every day. 



384 CHIXA AND JAPAN, 

I consider that one of the most important and interesting sub- 
jects connected with this empire, and our visits to it, is its re- 
establishment to foreign intercourse, after its ports have been 
so long hermetically sealed to the world, or at least the great- 
er portion of it. The success of Japan in maintaining her 
long seclusion is difficult to understand, especially when we 
take into consideration the never ceasing encroachments of 
European nations, and their unscrupulous exercise of power 
in extending their commerce to every quarter of the globe. 
We can see that the re-opening of the country has been the 
inevitable result of currents of commercial progress of mod- 
ern times, setting in from different quarters, and finally unit- 
ing here, after having reached China on the one hand, and 
California on the other. However, the Japanese are a pro- 
gressive people, and but for the conservative tendency of the 
feudal system, would now have been much farther advanced. 
Probably the government of the Tycoon is the more progres- 
sive branch, but this is not liberal in the highest sense, and 
makes use of its absolute power to prevent any but the high- 
er class from receiving the advantages of the higher grades 
of education made accessible by the opening of the country. 
However we have great occasions for rejoicing at the pro- 
gress that has already been made, and must still, and the more 
earnestly strive to further on the work begun. 

Early Wednesday morning, January 8th, the Shenandoah, 
(which had returned from Osaca, the day previous,) Iroquois 
and Aroostook were signalized to make the usual prepara- 
tions for getting under way. About an hour later we all 
weighed anchor, and started for Osaca, where we arrived af- 
ter about two hours sailing ; anchoring about a mile from the 
beach. In form the harbor there is much similar to that of 
Ilioga, being a wide semicircle, but the water is so shallow 
that vessels are forced to lie a long distance out from the 
shore. In fact, there can hardly be said to be a horbor 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 385 

there, inasmuch as it is exposed to all but the easterly winds, 
and in any but the most pleasant weather affords a very in- 
secure anchorage. No shipping (more than one or two ves- 
sels at a time on extraordinary occasions) will ever lie there, 
but will lie at Hioga, which, as I have mentioned, is the port 
of Osaca. 

Emptying into the bight of this roadstead is the Osaca riv- 
er some eight or ten miles up which the town of Osaca stands. 
The river is about a mile wide at its mouth, and is guarded 
by a large stone fortress mounting twenty-five or thirty heavy 
guns. The city of Osaca stretches along the left bank of the 
river for upward of six miles. Its population is estimated at 
865,000, — the second city in size in the empire, and the first 
in commercial importance. Several fine arched stone bridges 
can be seen spanning the river at short intervals, approach- 
ing, and along in front of, the city, while on either side of the 
stream, as far as the eye can reach, is a perfect forest of masts, 
belonging to the almost innumerable num»ber of junks by 
which the commerce of the city is carried on. But the most 
important feature in the river, is the Tycoon's palace, which 
occupies a prominent site on a bend in the river, near the up- 
per end of the city. This is variously estimated as being 
from one and one-half to three miles in circuit, and its walls 
are full thirty-five feet high, and twenty wide at the top. It 
is constructed of huge white stones, the walls having a 
sloping outer face. It is considered by all to be the finest 
and strongest fortress in this part of the world, and very few 
there are anywhere that can compare with it. The Osaca 
river takes its rise in Lake Binake, about forty miles to the 
northeast from its mouth. On the southern side of this lake 
is situated Miaco, the residence of the Mikado. 

Saturday, January 11th, will ever remain a dark day in 
the calendar of all the Hartford's crew, for upon it transpired 
the most saddening event of our cruise, the drowning of Ad- 
miral Bell, Flag-Lieutenant J. H. Reed, and ten of the barge's 



S86 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

crew while attempting to cross the bar at the mouth of the 
Osaca river. The three days that we had been lying there, 
the wind had been blowing very strong from the northward — 
causing the surf to run very high on the bar, and preventing 
us from holding communication with our minister at Osaca- 
Before breakfast that morning the Admiral, doubtless anx- 
ious to finish our transactions so that we could return tc 
Hong Kong and prepare for home, went upon the poop and 
looked long and anxiously at the bar over which the heavy 
seas were breaking. For a few minutes he stood watching 
some junks going in with a fair wind ; then turning to the 
quartermaster on watch, he asked him if he thought it would 
be safe to venture over the bar that morning in the barge, 
He replied that he did not think it would be safe. " Why, " 
says the Admiral, " those junks seem to go over well enough 
and why can't the barge do as well? I think that it can." 
To this the quartermaster replies, " Yes, sir, but those junks 
are entirely differently constructed boats from the barge, 
and are peculiarly adapted to going through the surf before 
a fair wind." With no further remarks the Admiral went 
into the cabin again, and soon after sent word to Mr. Reed 
to get ready to go ashore with him. About 9 A. M. he 
ordered his barge to be " called away. " Mr. Reed then re- 
marked to some of the officers in the wardroom " I would 
like to see a subscription started for a monument for us, be- 
fore we go ashore," and again as he was going over the 
gangway he said " stand by to save us. " 

The ill-fated boat left the ship at about 9.30 A. M., and a 
pull of about ten minutes brought them to the first line of 
breakers on the bar. Nearly every eye in the ship was 
watching the progress of the boat hopefully and prayerfully; 
but soon after entering the breakers, the barge was plainly 
seen to " broach to," and shortly to capsi ze. A cry of horror 
burst forth, thrilling every one, as such a cry can do, — "The 
barge has capsized !" Capsized! and on such a day as this ! 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 387 

Why, a man would certainly be chilled through before assist- 
ance can be afforded him, with the thermometer standing 
away down below the freezing point ! Surely they can never 
survive it ;" were the thoughts if not the words of all. How- 
ever, the boats were immediately lowered and manned and 
signals made that the barge had capsized. The fourth cut- 
ter, which had been kept manned in case there should be any 
accident, swamped alongside the ship, but in a moment after, 
the third cutter, under the charge of Lieut. Sands, gallantly 
pulled to the rescue. This was soon followed by the first 
cutter, under the charge of Lieut. Comdr. Higginson and 
Boatswain Long, and boats from the Shenandoah, Iroquois, 
and Aroostook. 

Although the third cutter was only four minutes in reach- 
ing the scene of the disaster after leaving the ship, and barely 
ten minutes after the barge capsized, even this short time 
proved too long for the poor wretches in the water, and when 
the boats came up only three were to be seen — Patrick Deve- 
ney, clinging to the bottom of the barge ; John Churo, cling- 
ing to an oar near by ; and, some fifteen or twenty yards off, 
Samuel Van Vleet, who being unable to swim, had had the 
precaution to lash himself to three oars with his neck-ker- 
chief. The first two mentioned were picked up by our boat, 
and the third by the Aroostook, and immediately brought off 
to the ship, in a very low condition. Eestoratives and good 
care soon made them as well as ever again. When last seen, 
Mr. Reed was trying to assist a seaman that could not swim. 
He saw the boats approaching, and called out to the Admi- 
ral, then seen on the bottom of the barge, to hold out a few 
minutes longer, as help was coming ; but both were forced to 
succumb to the chilling effects of the water. 

At 1.30 P. M., the third cutter went in the second time, 
under the charge of Lieut-Comdr. Higginson and Boatswain 
Long, with a steering oar. They returned two hours later, 
bringing off the body of Admiral Bell, which was found on 



388 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

the beach near the fort. They immediately went in again, 
and this time returned with the body of Peterson, also found 
on the beach. The Shenandoah and Iroquois sent boats in 
shore to remain all night, and the next morning they returned, 
bringing the bodies of Flag-Lieut. Reed, Ernest, Redmond, 
and Nichols. At 1 P. M. that same day we got under way, 
and in company with the Shenandoah, returned to Higoa ; 
and on the following day the Iroquois came over bringing the 
remainder of the dead bodies. 

The following is the list of the drowned : Rear Admiral H. 
H. Bell, Flag-Lieut. J. H.Reed,Coxswain Harry Ernest; Sea- 
men, John Peterson, Moses Redmond, Charles Baldwin, Orlop 
Holmburg Thomas Davis ; Ordinary Seamen, Bernard Red- 
dy, Edward Nickols, WilHam Rickett, and John IT. Small. 

Thus ended our long talked of and much anticipated visit 
to Osaca — unpleasant and sorrowful in the extreme from be- 
ginning to end. I do not think that one of the crew will 
ever forget our sad sojourn there in January, 1868 ; and it 
seems to be the universal wish that we may never visit the 
place again. Ever since the disaster all the flags have been 
kept at half-mast, as also the Rear Admiral's pennant. 

In Admiral Bell the country has lost one of its best and 
most polished representatives, the Navy one of its ablest offi- 
cers, the crew of the Hartford a true friend, the circle of his 
friends and acquaintances one of its brightest ornaments. No 
one could know him but to admire and respect as well as love 
him, and all feel sad at his melancholy fate, peculiarly so since 
the sorrowful event occurred when he was about to retire 
from a long career of usefulness, to enjoy for the few remain- 
ing years which in the ordinary course of events might be 
spared him, the society and intercourse of those dear ones 
from whom he had so often and so long been separated. For 
all his friends there is left this comforting thought, that he 
had lived a good Christian's life and was fully prepared to 
die. Wliat is our loss is his great gain. 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 389 

Lieut. Comdr. Reed, although very young when he met 
with his untimely end, had distinguished himself in several 
instances, and proved himself to possess more than ordinary 
abilities, intrepidity, and courage. 

Charles Baldwin was the only one of the old Wachusett's 
crew in the barge at the time it was capsized, and the only 
one with whom I had any extensive personal acquaintance J 
but so far as I have been able to learn from their messmates 
and acquaintances, the men lost were, without exception, 
good thorough seamen ; and among the best and most esti- 
mated messmates, Moses Redmond's story is the saddest one of 
all. For the last eleven years he has been endeavoring to 
get home from China to the States. Eight different attempts 
had he made — getting shipwrecked each time. The last 
time, he reached Mauritius, and was there again shipwrecked. 
At that port he shipped on board the Wyoming when on her 
way out, hoping thus to get home eventually. When told 
that he was to be transferred on board of the Hartford, he 
exclaimed, " I have been trying to get home for eleven years, 
and I shipped on board of the Wyoming hoping to get home 
in her ; but from the Hartford I shall be transferred to the 
Shenandoah, and from her to some other vessel, and — my 
God ! it does seem as though I was doomed to die out here ! " 
Alas, poor fellow ! his forebodings have proved too true. 

Our carpenter's gang, with assistants from the Shenan- 
doah, Iroquois, and Oneida were occupied for two days and 
one night in making coffins for the dead ; and go where you 
would, our ship, more than I thought it possible for a man- 
of-war, looked like a House of Death. The entire after por- 
tion of the berth-deck was screened off, and the barge's crew 
were laid out, dressed in white. The cabin too, and ward- 
room had their dead ; and all around, above and below, 
scarcely anything could be seen going on but preparations 
for the funeral. Seldom was there a smile on any counte- 
nance, the thoughts as well as the labors being with the dead. 



390 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

Never again do I wish to see, or have an occasion for seeing, 
such an universal mourning. 

The day following the disaster, the crew were mustered, 
and " General Orders Nos. 1 and 2 " read from Commodore 
J. R. Goldsboro. No. 1 spoke of the death by drowning of 
Rear Admiral H. H. Bell, Lieut. Comdr. J. H. Reed, and ten 
of the barge's crew, at Osaca. No. 2 said, that in conse- 
quence of the death of Admiral Bell, Commodore Goldsboro 
assumed command of the Asiatic Squadron, but that all orders 
of the late Admiral should continue in force. Then followed 
directions for the funeral. 

At 9 A. M. Tuesday morning, January 14th, the marines 
from all the vessels in the squadron assembled in full uni- 
form on board the Hartford, and were from her landed on 
shore to form, and receive the bodies when they should be 
landed. A 10.30 A. M. the boats began to assemble at the 
Hartford, and then after prayer by the Chaplain, the bodies 
were hoisted over the side and placed in the boats prepared 
for them. Precisely at 11 A. M. the boats formed in pro- 
cession and started for the shore. The English joined in the 
ceremonies, and in the procession their boats occupied the 
left flank. The marines were drawn up in line on the beach, 
and came to a " present," and the music gave " three rolls " 
as each body was borne past. In the procession from the 
boats to the grave the marines under command of Captain 
Forney, with reversed arms, took the lead ; next came the 
fine band of H. B. M.'s Ocean which had been kindly ten- 
dered for the occasion ; then our Chaplain and the Chaplain 
of the Ocean in front of the bodies, which were borne along 
in the order of their rank. By the side of the bodies of An- 
miral Bell and Flag-Lieut. Reed walked some of the highest 
officers in the American and English squadrons. By the side 
of the barge's crew walked the three survivors, and behind 
them came the sailors in two columns of four abreast, our? one 
the right and the English on the left, while a vast concourse 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 391 

of citizens and natives brought up the rear. As we were 
marching along thus, with no sound to be heard save the 
heavy tramp of the thousands and the band playing the sol- 
emn " Dead-March in Saul," the untimely fate of our beloved 
shipmates was so vividly presented to our minds that many 
an eye was moistened with tears. At the grave the usual 
ceremonies were performed, and the Admiral, Flag-Lieut., 
and ten men of the barge's crew buried, side by side. As the 
boats "shoved off" from the Hartford she commenced firing a 
salute of thirteen minute guns. As the echo of the last one 
died away the Shenandoah took up the burden and was follow- 
ed in turn by the Iroquois and Oneida, each firing the same 
number, thus prolonging the salute and making it more 
solemn, if that were possible. Returning to the boats from 
the grave the band played the beautiful and appropriate 
air, " A Life on the Ocean "Wave." At sunset, the late Ad- 
miral's pennant was saluted with thirteen guns, and then 
hauled down, thus completing the ceremonies of tribute to 
his memory and to that of the brave ones who perished 
with him. 

A day after this, a friend and myself obtained permission 
to go on shore on business. We were landed at the little 
hettle-har in front of the central fort. To transact our 
business was the work of but a few minutes ; and then, as 
we had the greater portion of the day before us, we deter- 
mined to provide horses and ride around to Osaca. To pro- 
cure horses we found to be no easy matter : but after fruitless 
search of half an hour, we met our compradore who easily 
obtained two fine ponies for us. Mounting these, and with a 
truly native guide, we took the road leading from Hioga to 
Osaca, riding slowly so as to examine and admire the country 
through which we passed. 

After leaving Hioga the country is gently undulating all 
the way to Osaca. We passed some fine groves on our way, 
but saw nothing extraordinary, horticulturally speaking, ex- 



392 OHINA AND JAPAN, 

cept some fine shrubs and plants. At points along our route 
we saw the farmers preparing the ground for the next crop. 
In this, as well as in cultivation, an instrument like a garden 
spade, fixed to a handle like a hoe, is almost exclusively 
used. A plow is rarely met with. Almost everything in 
Japan is planted or sown in drills, and the whole system of 
husbandry is more like horticulture than agriculture. The 
productions are nearly all those belonging to the temperate 
zone in other countries. Tea, cotton, and silk are the prin- 
cipal products that find a foreign market. Tea, for their own 
use, can be seen grown by all the farmers in their own 
yards. The tillers of the soil are held in high estimation, but 
are generally poor (or appear to be so,) in consequence of the 
enormous draft made on the product of their labor by a nu- 
merous indolent, non-producing, privileged class. 

At the entrance of villages and towns, and at prominent 
points by the wayside I had frequently noticed bright tablets 
posted up, and containing several Japanese characters. No- 
ticing one on our way to Osaca, I asked the guide what it was 
for. He told me that these tablets contained the inscription 
naming the fearful and certain punishments for any one who 
may profess Christianity. He further said, that about three 
hundred years ago, a number of Jesuit priests came to this 
country, and for a time were very popular, and converted 
many of the natives. After about fifty years of unparalelled 
success, they began to thirst for temporal power and to lay 
plans to obtain it. The Emperor, alarmed, issued a decree 
of expulsion, and under the stringent laws made against the 
profession of the Catholic faith, a most fearful persecution 
followed. Ever since that time it has been obligatory for 
everybody to subscribe himself at some Buddhist temple, at 
the risk of being thouG^ht a Christian, which is worse than 
death, as it would include the sacrifice of his family and 
nearest relatives as well as himself. Until the government 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 393 

repeals these laws our missionaries will not make many con- 
verts. 

As we entered the little village about midway between 
Hioga and Osaca, we saw that a large crowd was collected. 
They set up yells and shouts as we approached, but when 
we charged upon them with our horses, the "small fry" scat- 
tered in every direction ; but as soon as the horses went on 
again, the shouts became more vigorous. It was only by the 
aid of a yacumin that they could be brought to reason. The 
way that he managed was simple in the extreme. A mere 
wave of his fan was sufficient to produce silence among more 
than a hundred people, many of which wore two swords. 
Verily, the Japanese police is perfect ! A more convincing 
proof of their efficacy could scarcely be found. 

Arriving on the outskirts of Osaca, we saw one of the 
most picturesque bits of architecture imaginable. In the cen- 
tre of a large quadrangle rose a wooden pagoda, with dragons 
and other devices painted on it, and the Chinese curly roof. 
It was surrounded by temples and situated in a beautiful 
park. We went into the inn, and after lunch, we had a walk 
around the courtyard of the temple. This was made lively 
by the policemen and soldiers sitting in groups, smoking and 
talking. The horses were enjoying their meal and we our 
cigars, so we were loth to leave so quiet a scene. But the 
interior of the inn was equally curious ; folding screens in all 
directions, forming rooms, in which yacumins were writing 
accounts, others eating dinner, others again smoking pipes ; 
and servants were running about bringing such articles as 
were wished. The kitchen presented a wonderfully ani- 
mated scene. There were charcoal fires, and boiling and 
frying were going on in all directions. There was a great 
clapping of hands to call domestics, the responding " He I " 
answering to our " Coming, Sir ! " Here we were waited 
upon by young girls, much to the annoyance of the^acwm^w£, 
who eeemed to show themBelves particularly solicitous for our 
18 



394 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

morals. With the aid of the guide, we had a few minutes* 
very pleasant chat with them, and the damsels bowed their 
heads gracefully as we bade th<'m "good-bye." 

Leaving the guide with the horses at the inn, we set out 
for a short ramble about Osaca, the Paris of Japan. "We 
crossed the lodoga-wa or Osaca river in a native boat, and 
entered the northern part of the city. In many parts of the 
city, and especially in the southern part, we saw many fine 
palaces and temples. A large canal supplies the southern 
part of the city with water, and several small channels cut 
from the larger pass through the chief streets, deep enough 
to float small boats, which bring goods to the merchants' 
doors. More than a hundred bridges, many of them extraor- 
dinarily beautiful, span these channels. The city is very 
populous, and the Japanese boast that it can raise an army of 
eighty thousand men. 

We both wished that we had had more time to spend in 
looking about the city, and especially to visit the Tycoon's 
palace. As it was, what little time we did spend there we 
had but little opportunity to see anything but the people. 
Everywhere that we went we were followed by an immense 
throng of every age and of both sexes, who viewed us with 
the greatest wonder and curiosity. Evidently the most of 
them had seen but little of Europeans if they had ever seen 
one, and many times we had difliculty to force our way 
along. 

Soon after entering the city, we made the startling dis- 
covery that we had but one tempo — two cents — left, and 
that we had either lost our purses or left them on board the ship. 
The latter we afterwards found to have been the case. This 
was to us a very serious state of affairs; for without money,* 
we could neither recross the river nor obtain our horses from 
the inn. For a few moments we were puzzled enough to 
know what was best to be done, and were upon the point of 
endeavoring to make a sale of some article, when B 's 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 395 

ever fertile brain ushered into existence a feasable plan to 
extricate us from our difficulties; and shouting " Eureka ! " 
he straightway proceeded to put it into execution. Taking 
the tempo, he went to a small stand at the side of the street, 
and purchased with it a rude flute. Several times during 
the cruise he had attempted to play the fife or flute, but had 
never succeeded in making more than a noise. But taking 
the flute, we proceeded up the street until we came to a 
small square. This was thronged with people anxious to see 

us. B now took the flute, and mounting a stone dais 

near the center of the square, proceeded to make a noise^ 
accompanying the music by an occasional " step," which, 
like the music, was a decided " hrakedowny However, the 
^'' Japs*^ appeared to enjoy it mightily, judging by the way 
they laughed, shouted and cheered, — doubtless not knowing 

but that B was playing some choice American airs. 

My part in the programme was to "pass round the hat" oc- 
casionally, which I did ; and in a very short time we had a 
load of tempos — sufficient for our wants. But the ^^ Japs" 
were not content to allow us to stop there, but kept us per- 
forming for half an hour or more, until we, by signs, made 
them understand that we were tired and could perform no 
more. I leave you to imagine how ludicrous we appeared. 
Every time that I call it to mind I am nearly convulsed with 
laughter, as are all that have heard our story. 

The " Japs " seemed loth to part with us ; but as it was 
getting late, we made them understand that we must return. 
Having partaken of food and saM with them, we crossed the 
river, mounted our horses, and started for Hioga. Nothing 
worthy of note delayed us on our return, but with the horses 
put to a gallop, we were in about two hours at the Compra- 
dore's. Leaving the horses there, we took boat for the ship, 
and escaped a reprimand from the Captain for our disobe- 
dience and imprudence in going to Osaca, by narrating our 
day's experience. 



396 CHINA AND JAPAN, 



LETTER XL. 

U. S. Flag-Ship Hartford, Hong Kong, China, ") 
March 30, 1868. j 

My Dear R. : 

After the funeral we remained quietly at Hioga, until Jan- 
uary the 21st, when the Shenandoah signalized us to get 
under way and proceed to Nagasaki. In less than twenty 
minutes afterward we were steaming down the harbor. We 
anchored nearly every night, and on account of a strong head 
wind which we had to steam against, did not reach Nagasaki 
until the 26th. 

At Nagasaki we remained until February 1st, engaged in 
taking coal and supplies out of the store ship Onward, in giv- 
ing liberty, and transferring. Fifty-four men were trans- 
ferred to the Shenandoah in place of fifty-five men sent from 
her to the Hartford ; and on Friday evening, January 31st, 
Commodore Goldsboro transferred his pennant from the Shen_ 
andoah to the Hartford. 

We were just one week in the passage from Nagasaki to 
Hong Kong, and under sail alone most of the time. As we 
were leaving Nagasaki the Shenandoah and Onward "manned 
the riggings " and " cheered ship " for us, which compliment 
was returned. Loud, ringing cheers they were, and given 
from the bottom of our hearts. During this passage the mo- 
ments, and especially the evenings, were enlivened with good 
" homeward-bound " songs, and it really did seem as if we 
were going home without further delay. When we arrived 
at Hong Kong, however, and received our mail and dispatches 
jrom home with the news that we might have to remain soma 
considerable time longer on the station awaiting the arrival of 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 397 

our Relief, the Piscataqua, somehow the songs changed or 
entirely ceased. 

From February 8th until March 4th, we were engaged in 
taking in coal and provisions and " fitting ship " for home, the 
labors being interspersed with several grants of money and 
plenty of liberty; so that, although longing for the period 
of our departure, the time passed quite pleasantly and quickly, 
Two interesting features in China life came under my notice 
in my rambles on shore, and I must tell you about them. 
One was revealed by a visit to some gambling houses with 
an acquaintance, and the other is what is known as " The 
Feast of Lanterns." 

Since I have been in China I have witnessed many differ- 
ent modes of gambling, and the Chinese seem to be perfect 
slaves to the vice under one form or another ; but this time 
we met with a species entirely new to us. It is, however, 
the one most general and the favorite one with the Chinese. 
By them it is called Fanton, or " Game of Fours." Crowd- 
ing through a throng of Chinamen around a large table at one 
extremity of a spacious hall, we watched the game for a few 
minutes and soon gained an insight into its mysteries. Near 
the centre of the table is a metal plate, some six or eight 
inches square, the sides of which are numbered one, two? 
three, four, — No. 1 being toward the teller. Between this 
plate and the teller is a large pile of checks, about the size 
and form of " cash," and numbering some ten or twelve hund- 
red. An unknown number of the checks are separated from 
the pile and instantly covered. Now is the time to make bets ; 
and in doing so, a person may bet on any one of the four 
sides, or on two or three of them, and lays the money down on 
the side or sides chosen. When all the bets are made, the 
cover is removed from the pile of " cash," and the teller pro- 
ceeds to draw them in with a long needle, four at a time. 
Whatever number remains the corresponding numbered side 
of the plate wins, and whoever has bet on that side receives his 



398 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

money back, and in addition three times that amount, minus 
fifteen per cent., which goes to the bank. All those that have 
bet on other sides lose and their stakes go to the bank. About 
a year ago the English licensed those gambling houses that 
are situated within their jurisdiction, and by so doing have 
hrought them into more general notice ; and now they are 
becoming a favorite resort for Europeans as well as Chinese. 
While speaking about these establishments, I will narrate 
an adventure which two of us had during our visit to Wham- 
poa. One pleasant afternoon while we were lying there. 

S , who by the way is one of the most noted gamblers 

I ever knew, and the most passionately fond of gambling 
came to me and asked if I did not wish to go up to Canton with 
him that afternoon. I had intended to have gone up the day 
previous, but a headache prevented me ; and wishing very 
much to visit the city again, and not caring to go alone, 
I thankfully accepted his invitation. We employed one of 
the many boats which thronged the ship's side, and with both 
wind and tide favorable, in less than an hour and a half we 
were ascending the steps of the little pier in front of the 
" Tactorris." We spent an hour or so in examining the many 
wonderful and attractive articles of ivory, tortoise-shell, san- 
dal-wood, and lacquer displayed in the "shops" along Curi- 
osity street, and making a few purchases, we then entered 
the city through a gate near the head of the street, and 
walked along some two or three miles without seeing any- 
thing unusual to attract our attention. Finally S pro- 
posed entering the gambling house near where we then were, 
saying that he "must play a little," — something that he had 
not done for two whole days ! Not caring to go about the 
city alone, and being desirous to understand better a game 
which is now of so much interest to all visiting China, I went 
in with him and watched the play. While the Chinese would 
almost invariably stake their money on the last winning num- 
ber, S would bet on the same number every time, mak- 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 0^9 

ing each successive bet double the preceding one, until his 
"number" should win ; then he would begin low again — 
usually making his first stake ten cents. Under ordinary 
circumstances his number would win once in four times, and 
by the doubling process, he would continually gain. All of 
his playing that day was an unbroken series of successes ; and 
we both became so much interested in the game, — he in 
playing, and I in looking on, — that we "took no note of 
time," until finally the " bank " closed, and we found to our 
dismay that it was nearly midnight. It certainly was any- 
thing but pleasant to be conscious that we were in the heart 
of a hostile city alone at midnight, with a large sum of 
money — something over two thousand dollars — about us, 
and this known to about one hundred greedy, avaricious, evil- 
looking, unscrupulous Chinamen with which the gambling 
house was thronged. We would willingly have given all of 
the ill-gotten gains then to have been safely on board of the 
Hartford. However, we each of us had a revolver, and, de- 
termining to do the best we could, we took good care to dis- 
play them, taking them from our belts and recapping them in 
their presence, all the time taking care to appear happy and 
unconcerned. 

With the money done up in handkerchiefs and these car- 
ried in our left hands, with our right we grasped our revolv- 
ers and started. The streets of Chinese cities are not lighted 
in the night time, nor are persons allowed to be out in the 
street after about ten o'clock. After this hour the streets are 
barricaded by wooden barriers placed across them at intervals 
of about a third of a mile. At each one of these five or six 
soldiers are stationed. Although there was some slight show 
of opposition on the part of these guards, yet we passed the 
first five barriers without anything worthy of note taking 
place — a full moon enabling us to see our way almost as 
well as if it had been daylight. We had no difficulty in find- 
ing the way, our previous knowledge of the same trades being 



400 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

confined to the same street aiding us, and we noticed that 
when we went up we passed only clothing and shoe stores. 
In passing through the dark alley-way which connects the 
two streets lined with these stores, about twenty of our ac- 
quaintances met at the gambling house, armed with knives, 
rushed out from a recess and attacked us. We immediately 
cocked our revolvers and fired upon them, taking care to hit 
them in the legs, Their courage about this time suddenly 
evaporated, and they scattered in all directions, leaving their 
wounded — four in number. We did not stop to examine 
them, but pressed on as fast as our legs would carry us, until 
we reached the gate. This we found to be closed and guarded 
by about twenty-five soldiers. They had heard our shots, and 
were not disposed to open the gates for us ; but we presented 
our cocked revolvers and intimated that we would fire if they 
were not opened forthwith. They doubtless saw that we were 
in earnest, and not caring to contend against us with their bows 
and arrows and rude jingals, they reluctantly allowed us to 
depart. But we took good care to keep under shelter of 
the buildings until we were at a safe distance from the 
gate, fearful lest they might fire upon us. It may seem 
strange to you to think that we could have such an aff'ray in 
the midst of so large a city, and then get away without acci 
dent ; but then you must remember that the Chinese are the 
most ^veritable cowards, (or, in the words of '' Old Sam," 
" Chinaman's heart allee same cow : too much iear ; makes 
lun away;") also that no one is kllowed in the sireets at 
nio-ht time : and so common are noises and disturbances in 
the night that even the noise of our firing aroused no one. 
Arriving at the river's edge, we endeavored to hire a boat- 
man to take us down to the ship, offering him the fabulous 
fare of five dollars. But he refused, and we finally were com. 
pelled to resort to our revolvers and compel him. We did not 
go directly on board but landed at New Town, and sent the 
boatman back. As soon as he was out of sight we took 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 



401 



another boat and went on board. We did this to avoid being 
mixed up in any disturbance, of which we did not fear the 
result, but only the possible delay. However, we never 
heard anything further from it. Not all the money in Can- 
ton could induce me to run the same risks the second lime, 
nor do I desire to ever enter a gambling house again. 

"The Feast of Lanterns" takes place on the last of the 
New Year's holidays, and varies in different years from the 
middle to the latter part of the month of February. This 
year it occurred on the 13th. It was shortly after sunset 
that I explored the various streets and public places of resort, 
amid a continual discharge of fireworks, the frequent assem- 
blages of play actors, the noise of gaming tables, the universal 
signs of feasting in the families, and a profuse display of lan- 
terns of every imaginable pattern and design. Some were 
made of glass, others of glue, and some of paper, in the shape 
of birds, beasts, fishes, and dragons, all so arranged as to be 
carried around by a current of rarified air, and thus repre- 
sent different kinds of animals and junks in motion. In all 
the principal temples, and in the houses of the wealthy, were 
to be seen huge candles, some of which measured more than 
two feet in circumference. Bands of pipers, with sounds of 
gongs and cymbals, were to be heard in all directions. The 
principal table in each temple was covered with hu^^e cakes 
made in the form of a tortoise — the sacred symbol of Buddhist 
mythology. Some of the fireworks, especially the larger 
pieces, were finely executed and very curious and interesting 
in design. 

At all the principal temples during the New Year's holidays 
theatrical performances and other sports are kept up by the 
wealthy, partly for the benefit of the poorer class and partly 
for their own spiritual advancement. During this season the 
temples themselves are beautifully decorated and brilliantly 
illuminated, and not unfrequently the sports are kept up for 
two or three weeks after the " Feast of Lanterns." 
18* 



402 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

Thursday, March 5th, we got under way, and in company 
with the Unadilla, went up to Whampoa. There we re- 
mained six days while the Commodore and several of the 
officers and crew paid a visit to Canton in the Unadilla, and 
during which time my visit and adventure occurred. Mean- 
while the crew had almost semi-daily exercise with the sails, 
battery, or small-arms — fully as much as if we were just in 
commission. It does seem as if the officers considered doubly 
precious the short time that remains to them to hold authority, 
and were more than ever loth to lose any opportunity for dis- 
playing their powers. Day after day we exercised for hours 
at a time, with no profit to us and with no. apparent object or 
result save the gratification of this official longing for the ex- 
ercise of authority. 

Among the purchases that I made at Canton were two or 
three Chinese books. To a " Western " these are quite a 
novelty in more respects than one. Before attempting a 
description I will say a few words about printing. While 
this art was known to the civilized world in the fifteenth cen- 
tury, it was known to the Chinese more than nine hundred years 
ago ; but, on the other hand, while Europeans have made rapid 
advances since the discovery of the art, the Chinese seem to 
have stopped at the invention ; for as yet they have no mov- 
able type. All their printing is done by cutting the charac- 
ters for each work, page by page, by hand, on blocks of 
wood, and the impressions are taken without aid from ma- 
chinery. It is quite interesting and not a little amusing to 
see them print and manufacture books. First the engravers 
mark out the page upon blocks of wood, and then by means 
of their tools cut away the superfluous wood from the char- 
acters. A good engraver will get through with about one 
hundred characters in a day, for which he receives ten or 
twelve cents. 

The block is now ready for the printer, who places it upon 
a table or stand, with a pot of ink and a brush upon 



AND A VOYAGE THITHEK. 403 

one side, a pile of blank paper on the other side, and a 
rubber in front. After inking the block, he takes a sheet 
of the paper, places it smoothly upon the block, passes the 
rubber over it once or twice, and the impression is pro- 
duced, the sheet removed, and another placed upon the block. 
In this manner a workman will throw off from three to four 
thousand impressions in a day. The whole apparatus of a 
printer are his gravers, blocks, and brushes, and with these he 
may travel from place to place, purchasing ink and paper 
whenever it is required. The paper is cheap, there being 
but one cent's .worth in a book of eighty pages that I pur- 
chased, and the whole cost being but three cents. How- 
ever, the paper is so thin that it is printed only on one side. 
Their books are wonderfully cheap, as may be seen from the 
price of the one that I have mentioned ; and one of their most 
popular works, containing fifteen hundred leaves, may be pur- 
chased for half a dollar. This is accounted for in part from 
the fact that very few new works are published, and there is 
not much variety. But reading is within the reach of all ; 
and it is maintained by good authorities that there are more 
books in China and more people to read them than in any 
other part of the world. Eighty leaves constitute a vol- 
ume, which always has thin paper covers, and has the num- 
ber of page and title on the side instead of the top of the 
page. Their most noted works are those of Confucius and 
his disciples — the " five classics and four books." These are 
all about the size of the New Testament ; but if every book 
of this kind was destroyed, there are more than one million 
people in China who could repeat it word for word! They 
have several other works, one of which I have seen trans- 
lated into English, and it is certainly a very readable book. 
They are enabled to labor for very low wages on account 
of the small amount that is required to procure the neces- 
saries of life. The diet of the common people is generally a 
little rice, salted fish, or vegetables and tea. As such, a 



404 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

laboring man can, in many parts of the empire, maintain life 
on from one to two cents per day. This diet is sometimes 
varied by a little pulse or millet, or occasionally a few ounces 
of pork is stewed in with the vegetables. The common food 
of the poor people in some localities is sweet-potatoes or yams, 
rice, and the universal bowl of tea. Occasionally a pork meal 
may be had, and on great occasions a little poultry. I have 
mentioned in a previous letter the horror which they have to 
the use of beef. Instead of beef and mutton they have re- 
source to the flesh of dogs and cats, whose flesh is equal in- 
price to that of swine ; or in default of this to the most dis- 
gusting vermin. 

The evening after we returned to Hong Kong from Wham- 
poa I was invited to a tea-party at the house of a noted 
Hong Kong Chinese tea merchant. Shanghai and Foochow 
are the most noted ports in China for shipping tea, but still 
there are some large tea merchants at Hong Kong and other 
places along the coast. Our host told us that there were 
more than one hundred and twenty millions pounds of tea 
exported from China in a single year, and that full twenty 
times as much was used by the Chinese themselves. 

The guests numbered twelve in all, half of which were 
English gentlemen. One that is unacquainted can hardly 
form any idea of the elaborateness of a Chinese tea drinking. 
All of the Chinese gentlemen present, as well as the host, 
were arrayed in their be^t apparel, and we were met by the 
latter with the blandest smiles and the most cordial and cour- 
teous greetings. We were almost immediately led to the 
dining-room where refreshments had been prepared for us, 
consisting of some delicate cakes, fruits, hot wine and tea. 
For the latter a cup for each one was placed on the table with 
a dish of tea in the centre. This was passed to each one, 
and hot water poui-ed by servants, so that each one enjoyed 
the privilege of making his own tea. In the numerous bowr 
ings that precede the drinking one has to be very careful lest 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 405 

he may violate a rule of decorum and spill his tea ; and on 
this account the cups are but half filled. The Chinese drink 
the beverage in short, quick sips, taking care to empty the 
cups and set them down at the same time. The tea is al- 
ways taken very warm, and as the weather was quite warm 
upon this particular evening, the perspiration started very 
freely. It is a breach of etiquette to notice this ; but in 
order that no one may be unnecessarily uncomfortable, the 
host immediately says, " I invite you to take your fans." As 
we were so unfortunate as to be without any, the others de- 
sisted from the use of theirs out of compliment to us. After 
the refreshments we were all treated to the Chinese luxury 
of having our faces bathed with napkins, dipped in hot water. 
After this ceremony upward of half an hour was passed in 
conversation, the principal feature in which were the com- 
pliments passed. In these each one appeared to be zealous 
in debasing the first person and elevating th'e second, all of 
which were made known to us by an interpreter. Finally 
the highest in rank among the guents arose and said, " We 
have been troublesome to you a very long time," and im- 
mediately took leave of us. His example was followed by 
all, in the order of their rank. 

It was all enjoyed by me only as an interesting feature of Chi- 
nese life, and in itself was almost torture from beginning to end. 
It seemed strange enough with our " Western ideas " of tea- 
drinkings, thus to attend one ungraced by the presence of 
ladies. With its almost solemn formalities, the poetic effu- 
sions so aptly descriptive of ours, could in no sense be termed 
appropriate in China ; — 

" How they chitter, chatter, 
O'er a cup o' scalding water, 
O'er this one's death or that one's marriage ; 
Of A's new dress, or B's new carriage." 

This is probably the last letter I shall send you from China ; 
but before I bid China "good-bye," I must say something re- 



406 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

garding its history, size, population, etc. However, as my 
letter is already quite lengthy, I shall be as concise as pos- 
sible. 

In commencing with the early history of China, it might 
be well to correct the error into which many have fallen in 
regard to the faulty and extravagant chronology of the Chi- 
nese. Many suppose that they maintain such antiquity as to 
be at variance with the Bible and such records of the foun- 
dation and duration of the human race as we have been wont 
to consider as authentic ; so that if we believe the one the other 
must be disbelieved. This is explained by the fact that they 
have a mythological as well as a chronological period, the 
former of which relates to their gods, extends through myr- 
iads of ages, and even by themselves is considered fabulous. 
In this they speak of their celestial emperor, who reigned 
forty-five thousand years ; of their terrestrial emperor, who 
reigned eighteen thousand years, followed by their human 
emperor, who reigned as long ; without condescending to en- 
lighten us as to the names, characters, events or circumstances 
of these wonderful individuals, or their still more extraordi- 
nary reigns ; nay, without so much as telling us whether 
their dominions were established in heaven or earth, or 
whether they referred exclusively to China or included other 
nations. In short, the vague account they furnish us of 
these fancied emperors shows that they were merely the 
figment of the imagination, introduced to supply a deficiency 
and to amuse the credulous. 

After these, come portions of history which are based upon 
indistinct traditions of the creation and the flood. It is pro- 
bable that immediately after the dispersion of the great human 
family, the founders of the Chinese race wandered off to the 
far East and settled down somewhere on the banks of the 
Yellow River. Their most noted historian, Foo-choo tsze, 
commences at about this period, entirely passing over the 
mythological period as not worthy of note. This historian 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 407 

places the foundation of the empire at one hundred and four 
years after the flood, when Yu began to reign, and is the first 
real character made mention of. During his reign the lands 
were drained, and wine discovered. When Yu tasted the 
wine he is said to have rejected it, and remarked, " This wine 
is Sweet, but at some future time it will occasion the ruin of 
the country." 

Since that period China has been shaken by many revolu- 
tions, subjected to foreign invasion and internal commotions, 
dynasties have changed, and even now China is subjected to 
the Tartar yoke ; yet China is China still. Her language 
and customs remain unaltered through all. Those who are 
accustomed to attach veneration to antiquity cannot fail to do 
so when they consider the patriarchal character of the Chi- 
nese, as it existed not centuries but milleniums ago ; and the 
modern kingdoms of Europe are but as yesterday in com- 
parison. 

Upon tracing Chinese history one finds four distinct dynas- 
ties previous to the Christian era. The first I have already 
spoken of, and in the second nothing worthy of special note 
occurred more than the continuance of the work begun by 
Yu — the founder of the empire. In the third dynasty their 
great philosopher, Confucius, was born. He laid the founda- 
tion of the Chinese literature, and the history of his Own 
time is as much depended upon as the recitals of Greek and 
Roman historians. The fourth dynasty commenced about 
250 B. C, and was called Tsin, from which the modern 
name of China is derived. The ruler of Tsin conceived the 
insane idea of establishing a dynasty which should extend 
from the beginning to the end of time. To accomplish this, 
he collected and burned all the records of previous ages that 
he could obtain possession of, and buried alive all the wise 
men of the country, thinking thus to obliterate all remem- 
brance of antiquity, or but that he was the first universal em- 
peror of China. Fortunately, however, his plans were fmi- 



408 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

trated by the discovery of the works of Confucius in the 
wainscot of an old house. 

Doubtless you have studied geography and are quite fa- 
miliar with the location of every prominent country in the 
world; so as you refer to the atlas of your memory with your 
mind's eye, you will see China bounded on the south and east 
by the China Sea and Pacific Ocean ; on the west, by Thibet 
and the Desert ; and on the north, by the Great "W all. At 
the first settlement of the Chinese in their patriarchal regions 
on the banks of the Yellow River, the lands were divided 
into nine shares, the eight outer allotments of which were 
cultivated by eight separate husbandmen, while the middle 
one was wrought by the whole for the service of the state. 
As the population increased they extended their boundaries, 
until in the time of Tsin, they occupied all their present 
limits between the Great Wall and the Yangtse Kiang river 
— all south of this river not being added for several ages. 

Thus far China had extended her boundaries by conquer- 
ing ; but all subsequent extension was by being conquered. 
The Tartars, after gaining possession of the country, instead 
of altering its institutions and maxims, conformed themselves 
to the laws and customs already existing, and were in fact 
subdued by the Chinese. 

In addition to China Proper, which with its eighteen rich 
and fertile provinces (each of them equal in extent and popu- 
lation to some European kingdoms,) covers an area of one 
million three hundred thousand square miles, it is swelled by 
the annexation of Chinese Tartary, a thinly peopled but out- 
stretched region extending from the Sea of Ochotsk, on the 
east, to Bukaria, on the west, and from the Altai and Nen- 
shink mountains, on the north, to the Great Wall, on the 
south, and covering an area of over three million square 
miles. The Chinese empire occupies no inconsiderable space 
on our map, and fills up nearly the whole of their own. No 
wonder then that they should consider their country as the 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 409 

" Middle Kingdom," and speak of their empire and the world 
as synonymous terms. 

Probably nothing relative to China has been the subject 
of more controversy or is more interesting to the politician 
than the question of its population. It is stated that the 
country, already over-populated, is doubling its population 
every twenty-five years, and that in time she will press her 
enterprising, though not warlike, teeming myriads upon 
neighboring countries. Now let us examine this question 
closely and see what conclusion we may arrive at. The 
latest census gives China Proper (by far the most thickly 
peopled portion of the empire) a population of three hundred 
and sixty-six millions to her area of one million three hun- 
dred thousand square miles, an estimate which no one who 
has paid any attention to the subject will deny. But allow- 
ing that there are so many people in China, it leaves over 
two and one-fifth acres for the support of each individual 
(though competent judges maintain that one acre will sup- 
port five persons ;) so for a long time there is no danger of 
surrounding nations apprehending that their welfare or their 
peace will be disturbed by the influx of a mass of shrewd and 
hungry invaders driven out from their own country for want 
of subsistence. In comparing China with other countries, we 
find that it is not more thickly peopled than some other 
regions, and even less than some; for while Belgium has 
nearly three hundred and fifty persons to every square mile 
China Proper has less than three hundred, and the whole 
empire less than one hundred. 

Still China has an immense population, and every means 
has to be employed to economize the soil. This is very fer- 
tile, and probably there is no country in the world as exten- 
sively cultivated as China, or to as good advantage. From 
a late estimate it appears that more than three-fourths of the 
surface is owned and tilled by man, and the greater portion 
of this is laid out in arable land. The principal animal food 



410 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

is pork, which is home-fed, and on this account there are no 
grazing farms, no meadows, and but once in all my rambles 
about China have I seen cattle grazing in a pasture ; and al- 
most every acre is turned up by the spade or plough to afford 
sustenance for its teeming inhabitants. With the Chinese 
the art of agriculture is carried to a very high state of per- 
fection, as may be seen by the rotation of crops, the cultiva- 
tion of products best adapted to the seasons and soil, and the 
use of fertilizers. The skill of the hus;bandman may be seen 
in the irrigation of his rice fields, and they may be considered 
adepts in the system of terrace cultivation. 

The past week has been spent by the crew in taking in 
coal and sea-stores and in making all the necessary prepara- 
tions for the " Homeward Bound Passage ; " and this. Dame 
Rumor says, will begin to-morrow. This afternoon the citi- 
zens of Hong Kong presented us a Commodore's pennant, 
eighteen feet long, and a Captain's pennant, two hundred and 
twelve feet long. This evening the crew are very enthusi- 
astic and very happy over the prospect of so soon bidding 
these shores " good-bye," Every face wears a smile, and 
every thought and action seems to centre on the conviction 

that 

" We are homeward-bouud ! " 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 411 



LETTER XLI. 

Qgapor 

April 26, 1868. 



U. S. Flagship Hartford, Singapore, East Indies, > 



My Dear R. : 

With the deepest pleasure I resume my pen to write you 
my Homeward-bound letter No. 2, this time feeling sure that 
" We are Homeward Bound " in good earnest. The month, 
nearly, that we have been delayed here at Singapore while 
awaiting the arrival of our relief, the Piscataqua, has been 
anxiously and impatiently passed, and all feel rejoiced that 
our waiting is now at an end. 

Saturday, March 21st, was as beautiful and bright a day 
as could be desired on which to start for home; and those 
that interpret or put confidence in signs and omens, augur 
from this that our passage will be a pleasant and prosperous 
one. At 8 A. M. we " broke the stops " of the Homeward 
Bound Pennants, unmoored ship, and got up our anchor be- 
fore dinner. During the entire forenoon the ship was fairly 
thronged with people making their farewell visit to the 
Hartford. At noon all hands shifted into white clothes. Old 
Sam completely unloaded his boat in presents to all ; and 
after bidding every one in the ship "good-bye," he was 
"piped over the side,'* ten petty officers taking the place of 
" side boys." At 2 P. M. the " word was passed " for all 
visitors to leave the ship, and a few minutes later we 
heard the long looked for and anxiously awaited word, " All 
hands up anchor for home!" It would have done your heart 
good could you but have stepped on board the old Hartford 
at that moment and seen the excitement that prevailed there 
The crew really seemed like so many wild men in their 



412 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

actions than anything else, and the way the anchor came up, 
to the tune of " Homeward Bound," beat anything I ever 
saw, while cheer after cheer rent the air. In less than ten 
minutes we were under way, everybody was sent up into the 
rigging, and a salute fired. This was answered by the bat- 
tery on shore, H. B. M.'s Rodney and the U. S. S. Ashuelot. 
As we slowly steamed down the harbor, cheers were given 
for the port and those given us by the different vessels. And 
what cheers they were, too ! Four hundred were cheering 
with a will — such cheers as make one's pulse beat faster, 
and crowd a little lifetime into a minute ! As we passed the 
different flag-ships, their bands struck up " Hail Columbia," 
and we gave them in return a " tiger." During the cheering 
the air was darkened with the caps and old shoes thrown 
overboard, — for luck I suppose, — and if there is any virtue 
in so doing, we ought to have a remarkably pleasant and 
prosperous passage. Then from each royal mast truck a 
game cock was thrown, crowing as it went, and one of them 
alighted on board the Rodney. Old Sam, the bum boatman, 
Atee, the compradore, and several other Chinamen that we 
have extensively employed since we have been on the sta- 
tion, kept up from their boats a continual racket of fireworks 
and crackers and burning of joss sticks and papers, so long 
as we were within sight or hearing. On the whole it was a 
very exciting time and by all will long be remembered with 
pleasure. The Aroostook and Unadilla accompanied us until 
we were at the Ly-mun Pass, and then started for the north- 
ward, giving and receiving three hearty cheers before part- 
ing company. The last seen of them, they were racing, the 
Unadilla ahead. 

We steered easterly all that night and the next morning 
altered our course to the southward, which course we kept 
with some slight variations until we reached Singapore, 
March 31st. This passage was an exceedingly pleasant one ; 
for aside from the good spirits of all, the wind, though light, 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 413 

was favorable, the sea smooth as glass, and the ship most of 
the time as steady as a house. We sighted points of land 
almost daily, among which were the islands of Banca, Pen- 
nang, Timour, and Ara. Sunday, March 27th, we passed a 
small island in 80'^ N. lat., situated about thirty miles from 
the main land, and called PuloZapato, from the native Pulo, 
signifying *' island," and the Spanish Zapato, signifying 
" shoe," from the fancied resemblance of the island to a shoe 
whose toe points towards the north. Viewed from the fore- 
castle a few hours after passing it, when the heel only could 
be seen, it bore a striking resemblance to some enormous 
castle rising out of the sea. Tne next evening we sighted the 
light-house at the entrance of Singapore Straits, thirty miles 
distant from the city, and " lay to " over night. The next 
morning after taking on board a Malay pilot, we started up 
the straits, which are dotted on either hand with large and 
small islands, exceedingly picturesque in appearance and in 
a high state of cultivation. About noon that day we dropped 
anchor about two miles out from the town. 

The city of Singapore is situated on the southern side of 
the island of the same name, which lies a short distance off 
from the southern extremity of the Malay Peninsula. Any 
one who will look at its geographical position and its relations 
to the commerce between the East and West, passing through 
the Straits of Sunda and Malacca, will not greatly wonder 
how a thriving city of eighty thousand inhabitants has been 
planted in the jungle in so short a time. Although the 
papers record that in the surrounding thickets of Singapore 
island the tigers destroy an average of one person daily, we 
found its harbor floating the models of all nations, from great, 
lumbering, red-painted, goggle eyed Chinese junks, to the 
beautiful clipper of the States ; and among the flags of Eu- 
rope and America we saw the white elephant banner of Siam 
and the gaudy-hued flags of other eastern nations. 

We had barely anchored when the ship's sides were fairly 



414 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

thronged with boats, bringing compradores, washermen, ped- 
dlers, etc. There were a few Chinese sampans, but a ma- 
jority of the boats were narrow, sharp, flat-bottomed things, 
roofed over the middle with matting, and rowed by three or 
four natives. The natives are for the most part Mahometans, 
with a few Malays and Chinese. 

The Mahometans, or Mussulmen, have the entire head 
shaved and covered with close-fitting, many-colored straw or 
rush plaited caps, or crimson or white turbans. White or red 
striped petticoats or sarongs fall from the waists of some, and 
a few wear bright colored jackets, but many are encumbered 
with no more clothing than is needed to satisfy the demands 
of decency. These are the only faces new to us met at Singa- 
pore. Our compradore we find to be a more important person- 
age than those we have been accustomed to having. He is an 
uncommonly fine looking, intelligent, Mahometan, and named 
Mahomet. All of his boatmen, with the exception of a single 
Chinaman, are also Mahometans. The Chinaman is em- 
ployed to handle swine's flesh or anything appertaining to it, 
the Mahometans having a religious horror of so doing. We 
were not a little amused a few days ago at a trick played 
upon one of the Mahometan boatmen by one of our crew. 
He placed a piece of pork in a jar among some other arti- 
cles, and then when a boatman was bringing it over the 
gangway, showed the pork to him. With a look and cry of 
horror and disgust, the jar was dashed down and broken 
into a hundred pieces, while all its contents rolled into the 
water. 

When I was upon the forecastle a few days ago, convers- 
ing with an acquaintance who has been in business at Singa- 
pore for a great many years, among other things I spoke of 
the islands in sight fiom our anchorage. He told me that 
the Alabama used to lay behind them and get her mails, pro- 
visions, coals, and whatever she wished, and at the same time 
the II. S. S. Iroquois would be lying at anchor in the harbor. 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 415 

If by chance the Iroquois should learn of her whereabouts and 
start out in pursuit, by the time she could get around there, 
the Alabama would be behind some other island far away. 
Ofttimes a false telegram would come to the Iroquois, stating 
that the Alabama had been seen committing depradations off 
Hong Kong, Calcutta, or some other distant place, when of 
course she would immediately start off in pursuit. All this 
time the Alabama would be lying concealed behind one of 
the islands, and as soon as the Iroquois was gone, she would 
slip in, take in a load of coal, and be off before her enemy re- 
turned. All this could be easily carried on, as nearly all the 
foreigners resident at Singapore are English, and all were 
rebel sympathizers. 

We have been in few places where a ride or ramble on 
shore would develop more of interest and pleasure than Singa- 
pore affords. I have been on shore almost daily, and 
have always enjoyed myself very much. The usual landing 
is at a stone pier near the mouth of a small stream which 
separates the foreign quarter, with its stylish residences, fine 
gardens, charming drives, and pleasant promenades, from the 
long, narrow, close-crowded, opium-smoking, toddy and bang- 
drinking streets of the pounding, blowing, sewing, stitching 
filing, laboring Chinamen. The river is crossed at several 
points by bridges, and the streets which run along its banks 
are lumbered up with the products of the East, and with buf- 
falo carts and laborers carrj'ing the various articles to the 
neighboring shops and store-houses. Rising above all, to the 
height of five hundred feet, is the foliage-covered "govern- 
ment hill" with the British ensign flying before the buildings 
which crown its summit. From this hill is to be had a 
charming view of the town, harbor, and nutmeg groves of 
the surrounding country. 

As you go up from the landing, you see ranged along in 
front of you several sagacious looking little ponies, harnessed 
to the palki-garis or " palanquin*carriages," low, square, close 



416 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

vehicles, with a front and back seat, and with an attendant 
driver and interpreter. Up in front is a seat for the driver 
and other attendant. No one thinks of walking through the 
dusty streets of Singapore, under the rays of the hot, burning 
sun, when one of these establishments can be had for a long 
drive for a shilling. Nothing can be more pleasant and in- 
teresting than to take one of these carriages and drive out 
among the palatial residences situate in beautiful and exten- 
sive gardens in the suburbs, or among the nutmeg groves of 
the surrounding country. If the ride is taken in the latter 
part of the day one will meet the wealth, beauty, and fashion 
of Singapore in elegant turnouts, enjoying a drive in the cool 
of the day. 

Quite an excitement was recently occasioned by a lorcha 
which was endeavoring to leave the harbor. When about a 
mile distant, the English Corvette Persius fired a shot to 
bring her to, but without paying any attention to it, the 
lorcha kept on. Seeing this, the Persius commenced firing 
at her in good earnest, and also sent an armed boat in pur- 
suit. As the wind was blowing up the bay, and the lorcha 
compelled to beat her way out, we all thought she would be 
easily captured. But she would have made her escape, de- 
f)ing the shots of the Persius and the armed boat, had she 
not been "brought to" by the powder hulk down the harbor. 
Dame Rumor first informed us that it was a pirate endeavor- 
ing to make his escape, and after that, a smuggler ; but the 
last edition with the correct statement showed that it was 
neither pirate nor smuggler. It seems that a Chinese servant 
of the captain of the Persius, having stolen a large sum of 
money, a revolver, and several other valuable articles from 
him, and having got possession of the lorcha by a forged 
order, hired a Malay crew, and boldly set sail for China. H 
undertaking proved a failure ; but he displayed more pluck 
and daring than is usually credited to the Chinese. He is 
now confined on board the Persius awaiting a trial. 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 417 

Although we have had but little drill since we have been 
lying here, we have had several days of " humbugging " and 
"petticoat ruling " with a vengeance. Our present captain 
was formerly executive officer of the Shenandoah, and suc- 
ceeded Captain Shufeldt in command of the Hartford. When 
on his way out, he became acquainted with, and married the 
daughter of Mr. Prescott, U. S. Consul at Ceylon. While we 
were in China she resided at Hong Kong, but when we started 
for home the Captain obtained permission for her to take pas- 
sage to the States in the Hartford. Although much inconve- 
nience was occasioned by her presence, and some new rules 
were laid down, no murmurs were heard until the " humbug- 
ging " commenced in this port. 

When we first came in, Mrs. B. went ashore to board 
during our stay. A few days afterwards she came on board 
accompanied by a lady friend, and nothing would do but that 
" George " must exercise the crew at general quarters for 
their amusement. He, a perfect slave to her every wish, 
thought it nothing if four hundred men were made to run 
about, haul, and over-exert themselves in every way for two 
or three hours, in the hot, burning sun, so long as she was 
'pleased; and then the four hundred victims, with no word of 
thanks or commendation, only received for their exertions a 
subsequent damning and had their privileges taken away for 
not doing better! But to return; the men were given but 
half an hour for breakfast and smoking, and then set to work 
making preparations for the grand performance. The exer- 
cise of four hundred men for the gratification of an idle, 
thoughtless wish was bad enough; but we were further kept 
for over an hour with everything in readiness, and all " stand 
ing by," prepared to jump at the first tap of the drum, wait- 
ing for the spirit to move our visitors, and the murmurs 
began to grow loud and deep. At last the chairs were taken 
from the cabin to the poop, and the visitors escorted there. 
The " quick beat," " cast loose and provide," then " All ready 
19 



418 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

for Action," is reported to them, and the performance com- 
menced. All that was ever done at general quarters before, 
and some things never previously heard of, were gone through 
with, and the particularly interesting movements several times 
repeated before they said " enough " and the " retreat " sound- 
ed. Then came batalion drill for half an hour or more; 
and it was dinner time when they thanked " George" for his 
pleasant entertainment and withdrew to the cabin. Dinner 
time, but no dinner — and it was late when we did get it, 
and then but half cooked ! 

But the end was not yet. After dinner there was an 
accession to the party of four gentlemen who wished to be 
" tickled," too. So we " manned and armed all the boats '' 
for them, and kept supper waiting for more than an hour' 
until they could find it convenient to look at the berth deck. 

Exhibitions similar to those I have mentioned have been 
repeated several times since we have been in Singapore, and 
the crew made to exercise when no benefit resulted, but 
rather detriment was done to the service. Aside from this 
these many repetitions have a tendency to lessen if not en. 
tirely destroy that high regard, worship almost, which is so 
natural for a sailor to entertain for woman. When Mrs. B. 
came on board at Hong Kong, all were prepared to like her in 
advance, and she certainly is quite pleasing and attractive at 
first sight; but more intimate acquaintance has Aveakened and 
almost entirely destroyed the good opinion of all. Yet I would 
not attribute to her more than the sin of thoughtlessness, for 
I cannot beheve but that, had she fully understood and real- 
ized all, she would have sought amusement from some other 
source. The Captain knew better, and occupying his high 
position, he should never have suffered this thing to have 
been done. Nor would it have required, in my opinion, 
more than an honest statement of the true facts to have had 
all requests for such displays withdrawn. How many more 
such days we will have I can only conjecture, yet I can but 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 419 

feel thankful that the cruise is fast drawing to its close, and 
that the greater portion of it has been passed under different 
circumstances. 

The cause of our extended stay at Singapore was the non- 
arrival of our relief, the Piscataqua. Of course all were im- 
patient at the long delay, but there was no help for it — we 
were obliged to wait. So many times had we been deceived 
by rumors of her speedy arrival, that when an American 
steamer was announced from the signal-station as being off 
the mouth of the harbor, day before yesterday morning, no 
one would venture to say that it was our long looked for re- 
lief. But just after we had assembled at quarters, the coming 
steamer displayed some signals which were soon made out 
to be the Piscataqua's numbers. Eetreat was immediately 
sounded, the guns run out and loaded for a salute, and for a 
time the wildest excitement prevailed, officers and crew alike 
cheering, shouting, shaking hands, and on the whole acting 
like so many happy school boys. 

When the Piscataqua was about two miles distant from us, 
we fired a salute of thirteen guns for Admiral Rowan, which 
she returned with eleven guns for Commodore Goldsboro. 
The Persius th&n saluted Admiral Rowan with thirteen guns, 
which were returned gun for gun. As the Piscataqua came 
up and rounded our stern, she dipped her Admiral's pennant; 
cheers were given and returned, her band struck up " Home, 
Sweet Home," and then, crossing our bow, she came to 
anchor just outside us. The barge was immediately called 
away, and Commodore Goldsboro went on board the new- 
comer to pay his respects to Admiral Rowan, and turn over 
the command of the Asiatic Squadron to him. The Piscata- 
qua, therefore, and not the Hartford, is now the " Flag Ship 
of the Asiatic Squadron." We shall probably remain here 
two or three days longer until the several departments have 
turned over their respective commands ; and next Thursday, 
April 23d, is the day fixed upon when, in good earnest, we 
are to start upon our " Homeward Bound Passage." 



420 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

Although there has been much tending to make our month's 
stay at Singapore a long and unpleasant one, there has also 
been much to make the stay pleasant, — certainly much more 
so than we at first anticipated. There has been a great amount 
of excitement, and much to be seen that was novel and inter- 
esting ; and last, but far from being least, we have all had an 
abundance of the most delicious fruits that the world pro- 
duces. Fruits of almost every kind common to a tropical 
clime can be had in any quantity by simply going on shore 
after them ; but all prefer to buy them of the boatmen who 
bring them alongside at prices so low that it does not seem 
as if they could make fair day's wages. It is low to say that 
one thousand pineapples have been consumed by the crew 
every day during our stay here, besides an immense number 
of orangesf^ cocoa-nuts, bananas, and other fruits. 

But in a few days we leave all these, and soon our rela- 
tions with the Asiatic Squadron will be ended. Many, no 
doubt, will still continue to wander about strange and for- 
eign shores, but- still there are some, who with me, remem- 
ber with pride that we are citizens of a country whose grandest 
influences are found at home, in the ways of peace and 
humanity, and to wliich we return and cling wjth strengthened 
affection. 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 



42l 



LETTER XLII 



U. S. S. Hartford, Cape Town, South Africa, 



June 19, ] 



868. [ 



My Dear R. : 

Nearly two months have passed away since the date of my 
last letter, and here we are no more than half way home. 
"We had hoped to be nearing the States by this time, but He 
who controls the wind and the waves has seen fit to order it 
otherwise. We murmur over the light and bafiiing winds 
that so far have characterized our passage ; but no good re- 
sults from so doing, and all are made more uncomfortable and 
depressed in spirits. 

Thursday morning, April 23d, I was awakened just in time 
to get on deck to participate in the parting cheers with the 
vessels in Singapore harbor, when much the same cere- 
monies were observed as characterized our departure from 
Hong Kong. As passengers we had on board, besides Mrs. 
Belknap, two little sons of Rev. Dr. Dean of Singapore, who 
were going home to the States to be educated. 

Pleasantly but slowly steaming down the Rhio and Banca 
Straits, Sunday night we passed into the Java Sea, and the fol- 
lowing afternoon sighted Anjer Point, a long, narrow point of 
land which extends out in a northwesterly direction from the 
island of Java, with high mountains rising behind it. About 
dark we dropped anchor there, a mile from the shore. 

Anjer Point lies in Lat 6° 03' S., Long. 105° 56' E., and 
is well known to all those interested in maritime affairs. For 
the world-wide notoriety which it has attained, it is a small, 
insignificant place. Only three or four mean looking houses 
are to be seen, with the Dutch flag floating over them. The 
country around is exceedingly wild and picturesque, covere 



422 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

with forests and a luxuriant foliage. Along the beach are large 
groves of fruit trees, arid in full view from our anchorage was 
one of the noted banyan trees, which is said to cover more 
than an acre of ground. We stopped for coal ; but when the 
Paymaster went on shore the following morning, he found 
that none was to be had without first sending to Batavia 
and getting permission from the Governor, which would de- 
tain us three days at least. The Commodore decided not to 
wait ; so after taking on board a quantity of fowls and fruits, 
and making some additions to our already large number of 
monkeys and other pets, we set sail from Anjer that same 
day. 

For three or four days we pursued a southerly course, 
hoping to get fair winds. On the evening of May 6th a 
musk-cat fell overboard, and the old sailors predicted and pre- 
pared themselves for a " blow." Sure enough, we did have 
a blow, which came upon us without a moment's warning. 
The " light sails " were soon taken in and the topsails reefed. 
A squall of a few minutes, and then the wind settled down 
into a good, steady breeze, so that we stopped the engines, 
triced up the propeller, and proceeded under sail alone. But 
the wind was not long steady, and soon we had another squall, 
worse than the first. Through some carelessness or misman- 
agement of the man at the helm, the ship was laid in the 
trou"-h of the sea, and then commenced some of her antics. 
She rolled and pitched about terribly, throwing hen-coops, 
ditty-boxes, and other loose articles into glorious confusion 
on the spar-deck, and mess-chests, kettles, and other utensils 
on the berth-deck. To make matters worse, she at the same 
time took in a heavy sea over the entire length of the weather 
side, completely flooding both decks. To the more fortunate 
it was amusing to see the various articles washing backward 
and forward about the decks, and to witness the almost 
frantic attempts of some poor unfortunate to recover treasures 
which had got adrift. That morning we were content with a 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 423 

pint of half made coffee and a cracker or two for breakfast, 
because it was more than we for a time expected. 

We had three or four such unpleasant days at different 
times; but the passage on the whole was an exceedingly- 
quiet and pleasant one, although the wind was so light that 
we could not make as rapid progress as all desired. The 
Hartford displayed her sailing qualities in" overhauling and 
passing a great number of vessels — fast tea-clippers and all. 
Not a single vessel did we encounter that showed sailing 
powers equal to those of our good craft. Yes ! it certainly 
was a very pleasant passage ; and as the weather was mild 
and comfortable most of the time, there was but little work 
to be done. Drills were suspended, and all had abundant 
opportunities to prepare their " homeward bound" suits, spin 
yarns, and talk over and plan about home matters. 

Early June 1st, we sighted land which later in the day we 
found to be a point on the coast of Southern Africa, called 
Hole-in-the-Wall. This is so called because there is a large 
hole in the rocky ridg'e of hills which line the coast. It is a 
bleak and barren point, but possesses an unusual amount of 
wild and romantic scenery. There are many curious forma- 
tions beside the one that I have noticed, some of them bear- 
ing a striking resemblance to familiar objects. Among the 
most noteworthy of these are the profile of a lion and a fort 
of gigantic proportions. Four high peaks towered above the 
others, so that the inclosed apex seemed the magazine ; the 
precipitous, angular sides frowned destruction at every point, 
like bastions ;• an immense ravine formed the fosse, or moat, 
and the sloping glacis down to the plain was equally well rep- 
resented. 

As we altered our coarse from the westward to the south- 
ward, and sailed along the eastern coast side, nothing could 
be seen but barren rocks ; or, as a French voyager says, " It 
appears as if just having suffered from the effects of great 
fires. The naked rocks, that are heaped in disorder one over 



424 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

the other, and cut off and rent by fantastic fracture, rise from 
the bottom of the sea and mount to the clouds." It is not 
thus, however, by the best accounts, in the valleys and along 
the hillocks of the interior, where abundant moisture sustains 
vegetation, and the tropical plants display their rich fruits 
beneath an eternal verdure. In these places, I have been 
informed, there are some of the finest and most productive 
tracts in the world. • 

After we left Hole-in-the-Wall, we were a week in reach- 
ing Simon's Town. There we were gladdened by news from 
home, and the usual ceremonies of an arrival in port were 
performed. No change worthy of note had been made since 
we were there two and a half years ago. We remained 
there a week, and then, not being able to procure what coal 
and provisions we wished, came around here. The first 
intention was to transport the necessary supplies over land 
to Simon's Town, as it is dangerous lying here at this 
season of the year. Of the insecurity of Table Bay for 
shipping I informed you at our previous visit. The break- 
water which I then mentioned as being constructed has been 
extended out about half a mile, and the chain gang are still 
kept at work upon it. The earth used in its construction is all 
taken from the space between the breakwater and the town, 
where is to be made an Inner Harbor, large enough to ac- 
commodate forty or fifty vessels. We are lying behind the 
breakwater, and although we have had one day of windy, un- 
pleasant weather, we were not in the least affected by it, and 
continued taking in coal all day. Most of the time, however, 
since we have been here, the weather has been remarkably 
calm and pleasant. 

We finished taking in coal and provisions to-day, and to- 
morrow we leave here for St. Helena. All are lively and 
merry this eve and anxious for the morning, praying for 
good, fair breezes to favor us and speedily bear us to our 
loved ones at home. 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 425 



LETTER XLIII. 

, E 

July 7, 1868. 



U. S. S. Hartford, St. Helena, ") 



My Dear R. : 

With everything on board that we required, Saturday noon, 
we again heard the welcome words, " All hands up anchor 
for home." With alacrity every one took his position at the 
" bars," and when the order was given to " heave away," all 
seemed to be striving to vie with the fife in liveliness. Since 
leaving Hong Kong, every successive occasion for weighing 
anchor has been attended with increased animation. There 
has been no need for any one to hunt up the " skulkers " and 
drive them to their stations, but upon the first signal all 
promptly respond, and work with a will, anxious to be nearer 
and nearer to those loved ones from whom we have been so 
long separated. 

We have on board as passengers, in addition to those we 
had before. Judge Pringle, — U. S. Commissioner to Africa 
to investigate the slave trade and aid in its suppression, — a 
deserter, and a destitute seaman. 

After the customary salutes had been fired and we had 
"cheered ship," we moved slowly out of the harbor, with the 
long pennant flying and all hoping for fair and favorable 
winds for the remainder of our " homeward bound passage." 
And yet there was a feeling of regret experienced by many, 
as they stood upon the forecastle and felt that they were be- 
holding for the last time Good Hope, with all its peaks and 
promontories, and the charming little city of Cape Town, 
with its picturesque surroundings. Tiie view was certainly 
beautiful in the extreme and one long to be remembered. 
19* 



426 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

The wind favored our passage from Cape Town through- 
out ; and along with steady strong breezes, we had charming 
weather, a smooth sea, and all hands in the best of spirits. 
Every day there was an exercise of some kind — sometimes 
two or three exercises ; but there was always time and incli- 
nation for sports in the evening. "With the work and sports, 
the two weeks occupied in making the passage, flew by very 
pleasantly and quickly. 

At daylight on the morning of the " Fourth," St. Helena 
was sighted — then some seventy or eighty miles distant. As 
we approached, it appeared like a huge rock — as it is in 
reality — rising out of the sea. As we then viewed it, there 
was little or nothing offered to the eye but an assemblage of 
lofty and barren hills, intersected in all directions by deep 
and narrow valleys, in many places little better than ravines, 
and generally devoid of vegetation, except here and there 
patches of prickly pear and profitless weeds. The shores on all 
sides are lined with almost perpendicular cliffs running down 
to the sea, and frequently rising to a height of more than five 
hundred feet. A mere glance shows St. Helena to be vol- 
canic, belonging most probably to the secondary period. The 
island cannot fail to be of considerable interest from its soli- 
tary position in the South Atlantic, as well as from its 
marked and peculiar character. Well was the spot chosen, 
not only for the safe keeping of Napoleon, but also for soon 
wearing out a man with such an active and soaring mind as 
his, in this dreary and rocky prison. 

Sailing along close under the eastern side of the island and 
rounding Sugarloaf Summit, we dropped anchor on the north- 
ern, and leeward, side, about two miles distant from James- 
town. This is the principal collection of houses on the island, 
and lies at the foot of a gently-sloping valley, which runs 
down to the sea from the interior, and which is the only one 
in sight from the sea that has any signs of vegetation. It is 
narrow and winding, extends back about one and one-half 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 427 

miles from the beach, and is bordered on either hand by per- 
pendicular walls of rock, more than six hundred feet high. 
The beach along in front of the town affords the only good 
spot for landing on the whole island, and is strongly fortified 
by a fine stone battery, extending along its entire length, two 
or three batteries perched upon the eminences to the east- 
ward, and the fine fort on Ladder Hill, which overlooks the 
town. 

Ladder Hill takes its name from the ladder, or flight of 
steps, six hundred and sixty-two in number, by which its 
summit is reached from the town. Upon the eminence back 
of the fort are the ruins of the "Alarm-house," near which 
are located the Artillery barracks. 

Immediately after anchoring we "saluted the port" — 
English ensign at the main — which was answered by the 
fort. Then when we had received visits from the health offi- 
cer and one or two other ofiicials, several bumboat-men and 
washerwomen, we " dressed ship " ; and as a compliment to 
us, the few vessels in the harbor did the same. The after- 
noon, as usual, was given to the crew, and was celebrated by 
them in the customary manner. At sunset a salute of twenty- 
one guns was firetl, both by the Hartford and the fort. 

Many of us were hoping to be able to obtain permission to 
go on shore ; but upon the first application, the Commodore 
gave orders that no one except officers was to leave the ship. 

Yesterday, however, I was sent on shore on duty, and 
then obtained permission to spend the day as I chose. I 
landed at the little pier at the eastern end of the broad 
walk which extends along the beach in front of the battery. 
Between these there is a wide, deep moat, in which the 
ditches — dug along the base of the hill on either side of the 
town — discharge the waters which run down their sides' 
during a rain storm. By this moat the water is carried to 
the* sea. 

After having passed along the greater portion of the walk. 



428 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

I crossed over the moat, passed through the gate in the bat^ 
tery wall, and stood in the square on the inner side. Upon 
either hand were barrack buildings and guard-rooms, before 
which sentries were pacing to and fro. Farther on, and 
bordering on the Square, there were, on the right hand, two or 
three hotels ; on the left, a mansion and grounds, and at the 
head, a church. 

In the first place, while waiting for a friend, I decided 
upon ascending Ladder Hill. The hill is only six hundred 
feet above the level of the sea, but the Ladder is more than 
seven hundred feet in length. For the first fourth of the 
ascent, I experienced little or no fatigue; the second, I 
began to feel tired ; the third, I had to rest every few steps ; 
and by the time I reached the top, I was completely ex- 
hausted. The satisfaction of having performed the feat, and 
the splendid view that I had of the town and harbor, more 
than repaid me for my exertion and fatigue. As I was about 
to visit the fort, I saw my friend approaching the shore, and 
made haste to descend and join him. 

After leaving the Square, we went up a small, narrow 
street, lined on either hand with stores — the business quar- 
ter of the town. We branched off from this street, passed 
through the market, and came to a small square, on two sides 
of which were " stables." Our officers were before us and 
had selected the best of the horses, so we were forced to be 
content with two as " sorry nags " as man ever rode. For 
the use of them we were compelled to pay in advance fifteen 
shillings, which was in reality four times what the beasts 
were worth. I do not doubt but that the owners would have 
thought they had made a satisfactory bargain if we had 
killed or made away with the horses, and they had never re- 
ceived any compensation more than the sum we paid for a 
day's use of them. ^ 

Leavinoj the town, we took the road to the westward, and 
at a brisk canter started to ascend the hill. As we advanced 



AND L VOYAGE THITHER. 429 

the harbor, town, and valley were spread out before us, form- 
ing one of the most picturesque and charming panoramic 
views that it was ever my good fortune to behold. 

About a mile above the town, we came to "The Briars," a 
beautiful spot and intimately connected with the Emperor 
Napoleon during the earlier part of his captivity. It was 
here he resided while Longwood House was being prepared 
for his reception. The property is now owned by Messrs. 
Solomon & Moss, the wealthiest ship chandlery firm in James- 
town. Hitherto our road had been bordered with barren 
rocks, with no other vegetation than a few creepers and a 
species of cactus. The principal varieties of rocks met with 
on the island are soft Limestone and what is called the blue- 
gray Lava Stone. The hardest and best qualities of Lime 
Stone are found nearest to the water's edge ; and in practice, 
it is said that it will yield lime rich enough to bear being 
mixed with an equal quantity of sand, measure for measure. 
The Lava Stone is very abundant, and is the most durable 
rock found on the island for building purposes. It is nearly 
as hard as granite and of considerable density, although 
" honeycombed," like most lavas. It is often traversed by 
dark veins of exceedingly hard, flint-like stone, which is very 
difficult to work and ruinous to chisels not well tempered. 

I said that the " Briars " was a beautiful spot. We had 
not thought it possible that such a charming place existed or 
could exist on such a barren island, — a huge rock it ap- 
peared to us in approaching it from the sea. The house is 
quite a plain two-story building; but the grounds, — com- 
prising some twenty or thirty acres, situated in a lovely little 
valley, — are very finely laid out and adorned. They are 
surrounded on three sides by a chain of mountains, five or 
six hundred feet high, their sides almost perpendicular, and 
ragged with huge calcined boulders, which look almost as if 
they had been at no remote period vomited from the fiery 
mouth of some volcano. These mountain sides are rendered 



430 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

exceedingly picturesque and charming by the luxuriantly 
growing Scarlet Geranium, and the large quantity of furze 
and scrambling brambles ; while their beauties are farther 
enhanced by a pretty little cascade, which comes leaping 
down behind the house. 

Just beyond this point our road took a sharp turn to the 
left, and then after a few steps, to the right, in which direc- 
tion it continued for about one-fourth of a mile, between rows 
of willows. These are said to thrive exceedingly well, and 
aside from being valuable for firewood, are now quite orna- 
mental and pleasing to the eye, being covered with their yel- 
low catkins. At the end of this walk stands the half-way 
house, called " Willow Cottage," from the fine grove of wil- 
lows in the midst of which it is situated. Here we stopped 
and partook of some refreshments — "cakes and beer." 

From the cottage to the " Alarm House," the road, still 
ascending, has for its shade-trees a species of Ebony and 
Redwood, while scattered here and there, may be seen a few 
specimens of the Cabbage-tree. This is not a remarkably 
graceful tree, the odd bunches of leaves and flowers at the 
head of its branches looking at a little distance not unlike a 
cabbage, whence probably its name. With the exception of 
Diana's Peak, the hill on which Alarm House is situated is 
the highest point of land on the island. The former is 2,70 ) 
feet high, and from it a fine view of the whole island may be 
obtained. 

Leaving Alarm House and ascending gradually, we soon 
came in sight of the " Devil's Punch Bowl," a circular ravine, 
sloping towards the northward, near the head of which is the 
Tomb of the Emperor Napoleon. Passing through the gate- 
way on our left, and descending by a bridle-path, a few min- 
utes' ride brought us to the outer enclosure of the Tomb 
Near the entrance is a little house, against the outside of 
which hangs a board bearing a request that " All visitors 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 431 

will dismount, uncover their heads, and behave with respect 
and reverence in entering the inclosure." 

At the gate we were met by the French Sergeant in 
charge of the Tomb, who showed us about and gave us such 
information as we desired. The space enclosed by the outer 
fence is about half an acre in extent, and is surrounded by a 
fine wooden fence, five rails high. Within the mclosure are 
ten cypresses, and overshadowing the Tomb is the largest and 
finest weeping willow that I ever saw. Near the upper side 
is a spring of water, the stones around the sides of which 
were placed by Napoleon's own hands. 

Near the centre of the enclosure is the Tomb surrounded by 
an iron fence, about twelve feet in length on each of its four 
sides. The plain marble slab which covers the grave is 
nearly concealed by geraniums — the only plants there grow- 
ing. This spot was a favorite resort of Napoleon, and it was 
at his request that he was buried here. He was brought to 
the island October 9, 1815 ; died May 5, 1821; and his re- 
mains were removed October 9, 1840. 

On the upper side of the inclosure is a small cottage where 
resides the Sergeant and his wife, and close by this is another 
building, used as a sort of sitting-room for visitors. We went 
up to the latter and registered our names in a book kept 
there for that purpose, and which, when filled, is sent to 
Paris. This done, we purchased some views from the Ser- 
geant, picked a few leaves from the geraniums around the 
Tomb, and took our departure. 

Returning to the road, we continued on towards " Old 
Longwood House." After proceeding about a mile we came 
to Hutt's Gate, where is located a small Chapel and a house 
where refreshments can be procured. From thence to Old 
Longwood House the distance is about a mile, over nearly a 
level road. On the right hand this road is bordered by a 
plain which stretches away a mile or more, while on the left 
are the heads of two deep, pictui^sque ravines, both of them 



% 



432 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

terminated bj rocky bluffs, three or four hundred feet high. 
As we rode along the edge of these bluffs or precipices, and 
looked down into the giddy depths below, our heads swam, 
and my companion had some difficulty in keeping his saddle. 

I then felt that — 

" It is a fearful thing 
To stand upon the beetling verge, and see 
Where storm and lightning from that huge gray wall 
Have tumbled down vast blocks, and at the base 
Dash'd them in fragments, and to lay thine ear 
Over the dizzy depths, and hear the sound 
Of winds, that struggle with the woods below. 
Come up like ocean murmurs." 

The better to enjoy the sublime view, we rode slowly, so 
that it was nearly noon when we arrived at Old Longwood 
House. Two little boys took our horses, and through a 
small gate we entered the grounds. These comprise about 
two acres, laid out as they were by Napoleon — the same 
shrubs and plants growing, and the same kind of vegetables 
and flowers being cultivated in the garden. 

The house stands near the centre of the grounds, and is a 
range of one-story buildings in the form of a cross. Entering 
by the front door, or foot of the cross, we stood in the recep- 
tion room. We passed through thi^, and entered the most 
interesting room of all. It is called " Napoleon's room," and 
is the one in which he breathed his last. In the spot where 
the bed stood is now a marble bust of the Emperor, sur- 
rounded by an iron railing. The "cast" was taken after 
his death, but the bust is certainly a very fine and interesting 
piece of sculpture. Beyond this room is the dining-room, 
which, with a stairway, occupies the middle of the cross. In 
the right wing are a bed-room, library, and bath-room, and 
in the left wing are two or three spare apartments. In the 
head of the cross are the kitchen, pantry and store rooms. 
None of the rooms are now furnished. The wall-paper was 
removed a few years ago, arfd new put on of the same color 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 433 

and figure as the old. As at the Tomb, everything at Old 
Longwood House is under the constant supervision of a Ser- 
geant in charge. Here also the name of every visitor is 
registered, and the book of names, when filled, is sent, to 
Paris. 

A few rods to the northward is Longwood New House. 
This was built by the British Government for the Emperor's 
accommodation, but was never occupied by him. It is a very 
fine looking building and contains fifty rooms. The grounds 
are extensive and very tastefully laid out and adorned. We 
wanted to make a visit there, but as it was late in the after- 
noon, thought best to return to Jamestown. 

In returning, my companion was thrown from his horse 
striking within two feet of the edge of the precipice near 
Hutt's Gate, and only by grasping a willow bush saved him- 
self from being dashed on the rocks, two hundred feet below. 
At Hutt's Gate we were met by a lady who had some 
ferns, mosses, sprigs of cypress, flowers, and sample grains 
produced on the island, fastened on the leaves of pamphlets, 
and which she offered for sale. Some of these, with the 
views, were the only desirable curiosities we procured or 
saw. 

The extreme length of St. Helena is ten and one-half 
miles; extreme breadth, six and three-fourths miles ; circum- 
ference, twenty-nine miles ; superficies, thirty thousand and 
three hundred acres. Diana's Peak is the highest point of 
land on the island, and has an elevation of twenty-seven 
hundred feet. The population is estimated at six thousand, 
exclusive of the Garrison. The inhabitants are a mixture of 
every shade, color, and nationality, and the theory of misce- 
genation can be seen put into practice to its fullest extent. 

Well, I have been ashore at St. Helena, and I am now 
ready to start for home at any moment, and wish for no fur- 
ther delay or stoppage anywhere. There has been a fine 



4'34 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

and favorable breeze blowing ever since we have b^eu lying 
here, and it does seem almost too bad that it had not carried 
us on — nearer to home and friends ; but we expect to leave 
thi.q evening, and hope that the same breezes may be- 
friend us. 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 435 



LETTER XLIV. 

New York, August 15, 1868. 
My Dear R : 

Home again ! and now I sit down to finish the account of 
our voyage home, and the putting of the Hartford out of com- 
mission. I left you in my last letter at St. Helena, uncertain 
as 'to what we would do. However, notwithstanding the 
" well-authenticated " report that we were to " move nearer 
in shore " and give general-liberty there, the following day 
saw us take our departure from St. Helena. The order given 
there was, " All hands up anchor, for the United States ! " 
Willing were all at the " bars " there, and it did not require 
the fife's enlivening numbers to aid in 

" The groaning capstan's turning 'I'ound/' 

for all were desirous to devote their entire energy to doing 
anything and everything that should shorten the time and 
space between us and the loved ones there. As soon as the 
anchor was up, the sails were loosed and filled by that fair 
and strong breeze which had been blowing for several days, 
and which lasted us close up to the Line. Then, as the 
breeze was too light to waft us on with the desired speed, 
we let down the propeller, steamed two days, and were again 
blessed with a strong and favorable breeze, which we held 
almost up to Sandy Hook. 

Every spare moment of this passage was employed by all 
in perfecting ourselves in our various duties, and in putting 
the ship in the most attractive trim for visit and inspection. 
In the evenings, when the labors of the day were over, here 
and there about the decks might be seen knots of "congenial 
ones," talking over home mattery and speculating upon them. 



436 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

As our thoughts would dwell upon those loved ones there, 
from whom we had been separated for so long a time, we 
could speak of but little else, and none seemed to tire of 
planning and conjecturin^:, as well as wishing for the manner 
and circumstances of their meeting with those friends. While 
the most of us have had our fondest hopes and desires real- 
ized, there are some of our number that have had them all 
dashed to the ground. Yet we could not reasonably expect 
that it would be otherwise ; but still we may extend to them 
our most heartfelt sympathy and trust that in His own good 
time and way the cup of sorrow may be changed for one ^ of 
happiness, better for having undergone their present trials 
and sorrows. 

Thursday, August 6, 1868, will long be remembered by us 
all as being one of the brightest days of our lives ; for it was 
then, after an absence of forty-one months, we were per- 
mitted once more to behold the shores and people of our 
own country, and once again grasp by the hand and ex- 
change greetings with friends .near and dear. Then our 
hearts all echoed the sentiment expressed in C.'s favorite 
song: 

" I have roamed over mountains, and crossed over flood, 
I have traversed the wave-rolling strand ; 
Though the fields were as green, and the moonshine as bright, 
It was not, no, it was not my own native land. 

Then here's to Columbia, the land that wc love. 

Where flourishes Liberty's tree ; 
'T is the birth-place of freedom, my own native land, 

'Tis, yes, it is the land of the free." 

How different from those we had forty-one months ago, as 
we steamed down Boston Harbor, bidding country and friends 
"good-bye," not knowing as we should ever behold them 
again, were our emotions as we sighted the Highlands of 
Neversink that morning, passed Sandy Hook and the vessels 
lying there that forenoon, and slowly steamed up the Bay? 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 437 

and at noon dropped anchor off the Battery. Pen hath not 
power to express the joy that we felt, as we beheld old, 
familiar home-sights once more, and realized that we were 

really 

" Home again, from a foreign shore/' 

As soon as we had anchored, the ship's sides were throng- 
ed with would-be visitors — friends and relatives of those on 
board. No permission, however, was granted to any one 
to come on that day, but the whole crew were employed 
in completing the preparations for the final inspection. Many 
were disposed to murmur at this order, but the more sensible 
ones saw the wisdom and fitness of it ; for, upon the inspec- 
tion's being a satisfactory one, depended our more speedy re- 
lease from the ship, as well as honor and praise for all. 
This' the order would further, and soon we all saw it thus, 
and choked down all rebellious feelings and eager desires, so 
far as we were able, longing, however, for that time soon to 
come. 

Nor were we compelled to wait a long time ; for. the follow- 
ing day we were visited by the Commandant of Brooklyn 
Navy Yard and the other members of the Board of Inspec- 
tion. I will not weary you with the details, and will only 
say, that the Board was highly gratified with the appearance 
of everything about the ship, and with the various exercises 
of the crew ; so that, after an inspection of more than four 
hours, the Commanding Officer complimented us by saying 
that we " excelled in every particular any ship or crew ever 
before inspected by him." 

After the inspection, we remained at our anchorage off the 
Battery until the 10th. During the intervening two days 
the ship was fairly thronged with visitors — many to behold 
and speak with their friends and relatives once more after 
the long separation, and not a few desirous of seeing the ves- 
sel which by its career in the late war had won the merited 



438 CHINA AND JAPAN, 

title of " The Pride of the Ocean." " What a magnificent 
ship ! " exclaimed one and another of a boat load of visitors 
in whose company I returned to the ship from shore one day, 
'■How majestic and graceful!" (and those who spoke were 
no ordinary land-crabs ;) and all felt that she was a beautiful 
object to look upon. From her immense but symmetrical 
foi-m rose her gallant-masts, and throughout her rigging, her 
tapering spars, and delicate blocks, each part seemed to lend 
and gain a charm from every other ; and, as Jack Fid said 
of the Rover, when he stowed into his cheek a lump that re- 
sembled a wad laid by a gun-slide, " I care not who knows 
it, but whether done by honest men or done by knaves, one 
might be at Spithead a month, and not see hamper so light, 
and so handy as is seen aboard that flyer. Her lower rigging 
is harpened in like the waist of Nell Dale, after she has had 
a fresh pull upon "her stay-lanyards, and there isn't a block 
among them all that seems bigger in its place than do the 
eyes of the girl in her own good-looking countenance." We 
all have good reason for being proud of our ship, and there- 
fore may be pardoned for mentioning anything that might be 
said in her praise. 

Monday morning we were towed up to the Navy Yard, 
and moored alongside the wharf. Three days were occupied 
by the crew in removing the ammunition, stores, and running 
rigging from the ship, and then they were allowed to go on 
shore and remain until their accounts should be returned 
from Washington. These were received Thursday evening, 
and yesterday morning the Paymaster began to pay them off 
and give them their discharges. The work was accomplished 
about noon, and after a delay of about two hours the Guard 
and tiie Officers assembled on the quarter-deck, while the 
Captain read tiie papers placing the ship out of commission ; 
then, at llie third roll of the drum, tlie Guard presented arms, 
and tlie Officers uncovered their heads, the colors and pen- 
nant were hauled down, and the Hartford was '' put out of 



AND A VOYAGE THITHER. 439 

commission." The Guard then formed, under command of 
Captain Forney, to march to the Barracks. Our fine ap- 
pearance, dressed as we were in showy " uniform ''' and white 
pants, was heightened by our elegant silk flag which we had 
had made in China and brought home with us ; so that as we 
marched through the principal streets on our way, their sides 
were lined by thousands who had assembled to see us. 

There is now no more a " Hartford's Crew." Our corpo- 
rate life is extinct. Once more we are citizens. Some there 
are among us whose future life will be but a repetition of 
the past three years. They have no home but "on the 
rolling deep," nor do they desire any other ; and they will be 
content to pass the remainder of their days upon the ocean 
and in visiting foreign climes, desiring no more than a month 
on shore in their own country, in which to spend the accumu- 
lated earnings of the cruise. It may perhaps be well that 
the larger share of us have reasons to remember with pride 
that we are citizens of a country whose grandest influences 
are to be found in the ways of peace, and to which we will 
henceforth cling with strengthened affection, after the many 
trials and privations which we have endured. But these 
latter belong to the past, only to be remembered in the future 
as a background the more clearly to set forth the blessings 
that may be in store for us. 



A^FPENDIX. 



LIST OF OPFICERS OF THE U. S. S. WACHUSETT, FROM MARCH 5, 1865, 
TO SEPT. 14, 1867. 



COMDR. KOBT. TOWNSEND, t 
COMDR. KOBT. W. ShUFELDT, 

Lieut. John W. Phillip, | 

Lieut. E. T. Brower, 

Master T. G. Grove, 

W. B. Newman, 

J. C. Pegram, § 

W. C Wise, | 

C. E,. Haskins, 

Thomas Kelly, t 

Reuben Rich, 

Jas. Moran, 

Wm. M. King, § 

Thos. Penrose, 

E. H. Sears, 

E. B. Latch, 

M. H. Knapp, § 

Edmund Lincoln, 

J. H. Lbwars, 

Jefferson Brown, 

JAS A. Barton, 

A. Forbes, 

Paul Atkinson, § 

T. Russell, 

Mr. Towns knd, § 

Mr. Shufeldt, 

Mr. Thomas, 



Captain. 

Executive Officer. 

Sailing Master. 

Master. 

Ensign. 



Master's Mate. 



Surgeon. 

Passed Asst. Surgeon. 

Assistant-Paymaster. 

First Asst. Engineer. 

Second " 

Third " 



Boatswain. 
Gunner. 
Captain's Clerk. 

Paymaster's Clerk. 



t Died of Disease. 

20 



Transferred. 



Sent Home. 



442 



APPENDIX. 



LTST OF OFFICERS OF U. S. FLAG SHIP, HARTFOKD, FROM SEPT. 14, 1867 
TO AUGUST 14, 1868. 



Rear Admiral H. H. Bell, || 


Comdg. Asiatic Squadron. 


Commodore J. R. Goldsboro, 


C( (I (C 


CoMDR. Geo. E. Belknap, 


Captain. 


Lieut. Comdr. J. W. Phillip, 


Ex. Officer. 


" " F. J. HiGGINSON, 


Sailing Master. 


Lieut. J, J. Read, || 


Flag Lieut. , 


Lieut. W. W. Maclay, 


a 


A. S. Crowningshield, 


Lieutenant. 


Jas. a. Sands, 


C( 


W. C. Wise, 


" 


W. M. FOLGER, 


Master. 


Horace Elmer, 


" 


Joseph Beale, 


Fleet Surgeon. 


WASHINGTON Irving, 


" Paymaster, 


Andrew Lawton, 


" Engineer. 


G. W. DORRANCE, 


Chaplain. 


Capt. Jas. Forney, 


Fleet Marine Officer. 


Wm. Watts, 


Midshipman. 


C. H. Page,! 


Assistant Surgeon. 


F. A. Wilson, 


First Assistant Engineer. 


D. Smith, 


u 


0. W. Allison, 


Second " 


J. A. Smith, 


u a <f 


G. McAllister, 


Third 


ROBT. MuiR, 


<i " 


Jas. Mellon, 


i( CC (( 


Wm. Long, 


Boatswain. 


R. H. Cross, 


Gunner. 


R. A. Williams, 


Carpenter. 


Jacob Stephens, 


Sailmaker. 


t Died of Disease. t Transferred. 


§ Sent Home. || Drowned. 



APPENDIX. 



443 



COMPREHENSIYE SUMMARY. 

Of a Cruise in the U. S. S. Wachusett, Continued iia the U. S. 
Flag Ship Hartford. 

ASIATIC SQUADRON, 

COMMENCING AT BOSTON, MARCH 5, 1865, ENDING AT NE\^ YORK 
AUG. 14, 1867. 





ARRIVED. 




DEPARTUReI . g.e: 


Distance 


PORTS VISITED. 




SaS. 






Sailed 
in Knots. 


Month 


Day 




Month 


• Day 




1865. 






1865. 








Boston, U. S. 


Marcl 


I 5 




Marcl 


5 






Port Royal, Martinique, 


" 


16 


16 


April 


1 


10 


1,944 


St. Pierre, 


April 


1 


3 


" 


4 




12 


Porto Grand, Cape Verde 


" 


29 


11 


May 


9 


24 


3,.5.S0 


Porto Pray a, " 


May 


10 


17 


" 


27 


1 


165 


St. Catharine, Brazil, 


June 


28 


6 


July 


4 


32 


4,066 


Rio Janerio, " 


July 


7 


66 


Sept. 


20 


3 


472 


Simon's Town, S. Africa, 


Oct. 


20 


7 


Oct. 


27 


29 


4,006 


Cape Town, " 


1866. 


27 


27 


Nov. 


23 


1-2 


60 


Batavia, Java, 


Jan. 


10 


17 


Jan. 


27 


49i 


5,710 


Ambung, Borneo, 


Feb. 


5 


1 


Feb. 


6 


8 


1,120 


Manilla, Luzon, 


" 


13 


15 


ct 


28 


7 


719 


Hong Kong, China, 


March 


5 


10 


March 


15 


5 


692 


Macao, " 


a 


15 


18 


April 


3 


1-2 


40 


Canton, " 


April 


3 


12 


" 


15 


1-2 


83 


Hong-Kong, " 


" 


16 


2 


" 


18 


1 


107 


Shanghai, " 


" 


24 


5 


" 


29 


6 


892 


Yingtse, " 


Mav 


4 


64 


July 


7 


4 


699 


Great Wall, " 


July 


8 


1-4 


" 


8 


1 


151 


Takoo, 


" 


9 


1.6 


" 


9 


1 


145 


Chefoo, 


" 


10 


2 


" 


12 


1 


161 


Tung-Chow-foo, 


u 


12 


3 


'' 


15 


1-6 


40 


Chefoo, ^ 


" 


15 


6 


C( 


21 


1-6 


40 


Shanghai " 


" 


25 


16 


Aug. 


10 


4 


530 


Chinkiang-foo, " 


Aug. 


12 


3 




15 


1 1-2 


207 


Shanghai, " 


a 


15 


3 ! 


" 


18 


1-2 


107 


Yokohama, Japan, 


" 


23 


8 


i( 


31 


4 1-2 


1,0.54 


Yedo, 


'' 


31 


7 


Sept. 


6 


1-4 


15 


Yokohama, " 


Sept. 


6 


6 


u 


13 


1-4 


15 


Oosima, " 


u 


14 


2 


" 


16 


1 1-2 


235 


Nagasaki, " 


" 


20 


4 


" 


24 


4 


489 


Hong-Kong, China, 


" 


29 


14 


Oct. 


13 


5 


1,037 


Macao, " 


Oct. 


13 


3 


" 


16 


1-4 


40 


Hong-Kong, " 


" 


20 


14 


Nov. 


3 


4 


50 


Tinghoy, 


Nov. 


3 


1 


(( 


4 


1 


46 



444 



APPENDIX. 





ARRIVED. 


• l"i 


DEPARTURE 


• &d 


Distances 


PORTS YISITED. 




l«2 




l«! 


SaUed 












Month. 


Day. 


's.a 


Month. 


Day. 


=5^ 


in Knots. 




1866. 






1866. 








Swatow, China, 


Nov. 


5 


5 


Nov. 


10 


1 


144 


Tiingsang, " 


" 


12 


4 12 


" 


17 


1-2 


34 


Amoy, " 


" 


17 


11 


(( 


28 


1-2 


63 


Hong Kong, " 


" 


29 


8 1-2 


Dec. 


7 


1 1-2 


260 


Wharapoa, " 


Dec. 


7 


15i 


" 


23 


1 


82 


Hong Kong, " 


1867. 
Jan. 


24 


5 


tt 


29 


1 


82 


Shanghai, " 


6 


4 


Jan. 


10 


4 


885 


Chefoo, 


" 


14 


8 


u 


22 


2 1-2 


486 


Nein-fo, Corea, 


" 


23 


6 


" 


29 


1 3-4 


154 


Port Hamilton, Corea, 


Feb. 


1 


2 


Feb. 


3 


2 1-2 


455 


Shanghai, China, 


" 


5 


20 


" 


25 


2 1-2 


408 


Chinkiang-foo, China, 


" 


27 


1 1-2 


March 


1 


1 3 4 


162 


Kiu-Kiang, " 


March 


4 


1 


" 


5 


1 1-2 


300 


Hankow, " . 


" 


6 


7 1-2 


fC 


14 


1 


156 


Kiu-Kiang, " 


" 


15 


8 


" 


23 


1 1-2 


156 


Nankin, 


" 


24 


2 1-2 


<( 


27 


1 


255 


Chinkiang-foo, " 


u 


27 


2 


(I 


29 


1-3 


45 


Shanghai, " 


" 


30 


4 


April 


3 


I 


162 


Foo-Chow, 


April 


6 


7 


« 


13 


3 


444 


Chinhai, " 


" 


16 


2 


" 


18 


3 


320 


Ningpo, " 


" 


18 


5 


" 


23 




12 


Shanghai, " 


'< 


24 


95 


July 


29 


1 


142 


Ragged Islands, " 


July 


30 


1 


a 


31 


1 


75 


Ning)o, " 


Aug. 


1 


2 


Aug. 


3 


1 


60 


Tinghai, 


a 


3 


111 


C( 


15 


14 


40 


Pootoo, " 


u 


15 


6 


<( 


21 


1-4 


40 


Shanghai, " 


" 


22 


4 


it 


26 


1 


1.50 


Hong Kong, " 


Sept. 


2 17 


Sept. 


19 


7 


870 



Summary Continued, in 


the IJ. S. 


Flag Ship 


Harti 


Vd. 


Hong Kong, China, 


Aug. 


29 


41 1 Oct. 


10 


6 


984 


Nagasaki, Japan, 


Oct. 


19 


58 1 Dec. 


17 


9 


1,120 


Simonosaki, " 


Dec. 


18 


1 


1868. 


19 


1 


150 


Hiogo, 


1868. 


21 


18 


Jan. 


8 


2 


160 


Osaca, " 


Jan. 


8 


4 


(I 


12 




13 


Hiogo, " 


" 


12 


9 


tt 


21 




13 


Simonosaki, " 


<( 


25 


1 


tt 


26 


4 


160 


Nagasaki, " 


" 


27 


5 


Feb. 


1 


1 


130 


Hong Kong, China, 


Feb. 


8 


27 


March 


5 


7 


1,160 


Whampoa, " 


March 


5 


7 


(( 


12 


1-2 


70 


Hong Kong, " 


" 


13 


9 


« 


21. 


1 


70 


Singapore, Malavsia, 


" 


31 


22 


April 


23 


10 


1,550 


Anjer Point, Java, 


April 


27 


1 




28 


4 


520 


Simon's Town, S. Africa, 


June 


8 


6 1-2 


June 


15 


41 


5,622 


Cape Town, " 


" 


15 


5 


tt 


20 


1-2 


60 


St. Helena Island, 


July 


4 


3 


July 


7 


14 


1,896 


New York, U. S., 


Aug. 


6 


8 


Aug. 


14 


30 


5,260 
















Knots. 


TOTAL, 81 PORTS VISITED. 






887 






383 


63,888, or 
62,196 














Miles. 



' ^•■''^'^.- '"' ^■■>'^ ''-: <?••' 



'C^ 



'b'^^'Vi.y 















".8 



v->^ . 



rvTv 






>^ii;. 













A.#. 



